Tips on cleaning interior
#1
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Tips on cleaning interior
Hi guys.
I've had my TL for about a week an half now it has black interior, and i was jus wondering if you guys had any tips on cleaning the interior rubber? LIke what i did, was jus vaccum the dust off gently on the. I dont use anything to wipe it. I was just wondering what all you people do?
also, you know those show marks and what not, when people go in your car, and they jus scuff the side of those black rubbers, jus wondering, how would you clean that also?
Thanks!
I've had my TL for about a week an half now it has black interior, and i was jus wondering if you guys had any tips on cleaning the interior rubber? LIke what i did, was jus vaccum the dust off gently on the. I dont use anything to wipe it. I was just wondering what all you people do?
also, you know those show marks and what not, when people go in your car, and they jus scuff the side of those black rubbers, jus wondering, how would you clean that also?
Thanks!
#2
Fightin' Texas Aggie
Go get some Aerospace 303 protectant. It cleans the dash and most intrior pieces very well. It's not easy to find so visit their website and they have a list of vendors.
http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=home
http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=home
#3
TheBigWhite 21
do a search on this forum. There is another thread about what people use to clean their interiors. Personally, I use the 303 protectant for all the vinyls. I have Meguiar's leather cleaner/conditioner for the seats. As for scuff marks, I'm not sure what others are using. Best way is to prevent the scuffs in the first place. I hardly ever let anyone sit in my car except my wife.
do a search on this forum. There is another thread about what people use to clean their interiors. Personally, I use the 303 protectant for all the vinyls. I have Meguiar's leather cleaner/conditioner for the seats. As for scuff marks, I'm not sure what others are using. Best way is to prevent the scuffs in the first place. I hardly ever let anyone sit in my car except my wife.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#5
I use 303 for everything, but the leather, and it works much better than Armor All. For leather, I have used Lexol cleaner (orange bottle) and then the conditioner (brown bottle). Lexol can be hard to find, but its supposedly one of the best.
But in my opinion, its the frequency of application that is most important.
But in my opinion, its the frequency of application that is most important.
#6
get a swiffer. gets rid of the dust without making all the dried up streaks you always see later. I have not used anything but the swiffer (dry) since i got the car and the dash and instrumentation look brand new. The navi screen will need a liquid cleaner however, from fingerprints. damp dustless cloth with warm water does wonders.
#7
The black is tough to keep clean. I use the Meguiar's wipes. I'll will follow-up with the 303 for plastic and Lexol for leather.
I must admit that I have my doubts on the durability of the leather seats.
I must admit that I have my doubts on the durability of the leather seats.
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#10
Suzuka Master
I use the woolite solution on a cheap M/F towel it acts like a dust magnet and will clean any issues you have . Its leather safe and recommended buy Lexus and Caddy.
There is more on it in my web page.
There is more on it in my web page.
#11
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#14
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To quote Ron Ketcham of Auto Int .. who formulates and supplies a lot of dressings etc got auto manufactures world wide;
Quote
Armorall, 303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
Unquote.
Quote
Armorall, 303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
Unquote.
#15
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Originally Posted by urbaita1
I use 303 for everything, but the leather, and it works much better than Armor All. For leather, I have used Lexol cleaner (orange bottle) and then the conditioner (brown bottle). Lexol can be hard to find, but its supposedly one of the best.
But in my opinion, its the frequency of application that is most important.
But in my opinion, its the frequency of application that is most important.
#16
Keep Right Except to Pass
Since the discussion is on, does anyone have any suggestions for fixing a small scuff on the steering wheel? I usually do not wear a jacket when I drive, but on Monday it was raining and I didn't want to get soaked while pulling it off, and I must have bumped the steering wheel with the zipper on my jacket because there is a small scuff on the side. Not a huge thing, but it's where my right hand holds the wheel, so I'm aware of it. Anyone have any advice for those sorts of scuffs?
I will try to take a picture tonight if needed.
I will try to take a picture tonight if needed.
#18
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Originally Posted by 1995hoo
Since the discussion is on, does anyone have any suggestions for fixing a small scuff on the steering wheel? I usually do not wear a jacket when I drive, but on Monday it was raining and I didn't want to get soaked while pulling it off, and I must have bumped the steering wheel with the zipper on my jacket because there is a small scuff on the side. Not a huge thing, but it's where my right hand holds the wheel, so I'm aware of it. Anyone have any advice for those sorts of scuffs?
I will try to take a picture tonight if needed.
I will try to take a picture tonight if needed.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#21
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Originally Posted by TLgundee05
I use the Zaino Leather Cleaner and Protector for my interior. Smooth and Clean as a baby's behind ![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
TL gundee05, the zaino leather cleaner..so it works very well? Can you use it wipe the seats also, or no? ANd does this zaino leather cleaner make the rubbery dashboards shiny, or jus clean and lint free?
Thanks!
#22
Keep Right Except to Pass
Originally Posted by Houstun TL
@ 9K, my steering wheel leather is already starting to "peel" in spots so I'm hoping that Acura will replace it... May be worth a shot... ![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#23
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Originally Posted by AMIC
Go get some Aerospace 303 protectant. It cleans the dash and most intrior pieces very well. It's not easy to find so visit their website and they have a list of vendors.
http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=home
http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=home
#24
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If you like Lexol, try their plastic/vinyl product, Vinylex. Works great -- leaves a nice matte finish. I've used it on the hard and soft plastics in my BMWs and VWs, and have done very well in concours d'elegance judging on my interiors.
BE CAREFUL HOW YOU SPRAY IT. If you get a stray drop on the leather, it's there for good. (Ask me how I know.) I spray it onto a rag, facing away from the car, then apply it.
I get it -- like all my "carsmetics" (chemicals to make my car look good!) thru CarCareOnline.com. The proprietor is a retired chemist who only sells products that pass his testing. He's great for advice (I've called him for advice several times), and his "how-to" materials (online, and included with every order) are worth paying for, even though they're free.
BE CAREFUL HOW YOU SPRAY IT. If you get a stray drop on the leather, it's there for good. (Ask me how I know.) I spray it onto a rag, facing away from the car, then apply it.
I get it -- like all my "carsmetics" (chemicals to make my car look good!) thru CarCareOnline.com. The proprietor is a retired chemist who only sells products that pass his testing. He's great for advice (I've called him for advice several times), and his "how-to" materials (online, and included with every order) are worth paying for, even though they're free.
#25
Originally Posted by TheBigWhite 21
Does this Aerospace 303 protectant leave a sort of wet look on the rubber vinyl? cuz i used meguiars leather cleaner, and i didnt like how my seats loked wet...btw.for my leather cleaner, im using Lexol. Works wonders, recommended by Mr. HeelToe Himself! awesome product.
#26
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Black leather is very easy to keep clean. Both my 03 Max GLE and 06 TL have this, and I've not done a whole lot to keep both clean, though I must admit that they are both garaged (when not in use) so they are not exposed to strong sunlight or heat that can cause them to fade or crack. When I bought my Max, Nissan gave me two free interior maintenance kits, which, among other things, include leather cleaners and conditioners, and they have been doing a good job on keeping up my cars' interior.
#27
Originally Posted by Jesstzn
To quote Ron Ketcham of Auto Int .. who formulates and supplies a lot of dressings etc got auto manufactures world wide;
Quote
Armorall, 303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
Unquote.
Quote
Armorall, 303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
Unquote.
#28
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Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
Great piece of info..........
#29
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I tried Meguiars gold class leather conditioner/cleaner and its pretty good, I just dont like the fact that it leaves the leather all shiny and wet looking ;/ ~ Ive used Lexol before that and I like it alot more! Anyone have any other suggestions? And is the 303 going to fix the faded look on the dash? Thanks
#30
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Originally Posted by arseny87
I tried Meguiars gold class leather conditioner/cleaner and its pretty good, I just dont like the fact that it leaves the leather all shiny and wet looking ;/ ~ Ive used Lexol before that and I like it alot more! Anyone have any other suggestions? And is the 303 going to fix the faded look on the dash? Thanks
#31
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Originally Posted by TheBigWhite 21
Yeah, , my dash is fading too, im about to order the 303 protectant since everyone said it works well...any more feedback?
#32
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Originally Posted by Jesstzn
I found Meguiars #40 Rubber and Vinyl protectant did a better job on the dash than 303. I have both.. tried them both.
if not, i might jus get this insteead of trying to buy the 303 aerospace protectant online.
#33
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by TheBigWhite 21
This meguiar's #40 rubber and vinyl protectant, it doesnt leave a wet finish?
if not, i might jus get this insteead of trying to buy the 303 aerospace protectant online.
if not, i might jus get this insteead of trying to buy the 303 aerospace protectant online.
#34
Originally Posted by TheBigWhite 21
I just wanna be sure that Aerospace 303 wont leave a wet finish like the Meguir leather cleaner. I may jus got with the lexol once, since that's the one im using for leather cleaning
#35
just bought a 07 type S with taupe interior , and in just 2 months the blue in my jeans are in the leather now. What would be the best product to use for in my oppinion a real deep clean?
#36
Moderator
Originally Posted by damonb70
just bought a 07 type S with taupe interior , and in just 2 months the blue in my jeans are in the leather now. What would be the best product to use for in my oppinion a real deep clean?
#37
Originally Posted by ttribe
Lexol is a pretty good product for cleaning and conditioning, but the two (Cleaner vs. Conditioner) do come in separate bottles, so you need to make sure you get both. I've used it on my TL as well as my wife's Pilot and it does a nice job.
#38
Moderator
Originally Posted by damonb70
where can i purchae Lexol from?
#39
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by TheBigWhite 21
Hi guys.
I've had my TL for about a week an half now it has black interior, and i was jus wondering if you guys had any tips on cleaning the interior rubber? LIke what i did, was jus vaccum the dust off gently on the. I dont use anything to wipe it. I was just wondering what all you people do?
also, you know those show marks and what not, when people go in your car, and they jus scuff the side of those black rubbers, jus wondering, how would you clean that also?
Thanks!
I've had my TL for about a week an half now it has black interior, and i was jus wondering if you guys had any tips on cleaning the interior rubber? LIke what i did, was jus vaccum the dust off gently on the. I dont use anything to wipe it. I was just wondering what all you people do?
also, you know those show marks and what not, when people go in your car, and they jus scuff the side of those black rubbers, jus wondering, how would you clean that also?
Thanks!