stevemk07

Duh....

I don't live in Calgary... Just visiting for the holidays

I have been driving on all seasons in the TL for 5 winters. I will be fine.

WDPanda

All seasons with one wheel drive, must be fun.
Loving the limited slip differential 2 wheel drive on winters, so fun and so confident. I don't understand why they use open differentials on any car...

stevemk07

k

truonghthe

ok back on the topic OP. Good luck finding a clean TL-S MT unmolested, if you can find one then get ready pay premium price for it. If I ever buy a MT TL-S it would be 100% stock.

stevemk07

Yeah seeing that... Clean ones definitely have higher asking prices.

Now I am thinking I am never one to go withthe crowd or let other opinions dictate my decision making.... Will probably keep my auto and buy another auto when its done. I dont need to "feel the road" or "feel connected to the car" etc....

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Just try a 6MT TL if you haven't already. If that doesn't convince you then enjoy the auto life..

MyGuti

OP take it from me, I absolutely love my base, which is why I've decided to keep it.
However, after driving the 6mt, I have fallen in love all over again. It's not only about it being a type-s in 6mt, to me its about the subtle differences and really getting to know the car.
I have only done a fluid change and some tint to the car right now, but as mods progress, so will my love. Driving a 6mt is a totally different experience, I would not change it for anything (seriously).
Keep on the hunt for one, it took me about 4 years to find the one I'm in right now....I did come across others, but the condition was absolute crap and the owners had not appreciated the car.
Good luck!

stevemk07

I don't know how I would do that. I also would not want to mess up someone elses transmission being that I am more of a novice stick shift driver. Like I said earlier... I have no problem driving trucks but cars have given me problems at my experience level. If I were to get one I would probably get the owner to drive it around with me in the passenger seat. If seemed good I would proceed from there... If I bought I would be wrecking my own manual tranny lol

stevemk07

Lol I appreciate that and the way you describe your experience is convincing. I will keep an open mind about this.

What makes it harder is the fact that Caandian TLs go through much more salt for longer periods of time due to our more substantial winter weather and this would cause more corrosion/rusting on these now older vehicles... I would probably need to find one that was garage kept and put away for the winters to make the purchase worth the time and money... It would likely cpst more but it would probably be worth it from wbat I gather....

MyGuti

Maybe learn on a beater OP. I've driven nothing buy manuals, with my base being the only exception. The type-s' are a bit finicky in first gear, but this can be easily resolved. I agree that learning on a type-s will probably cause more harm than anything. See if someone you knows has a beater, if you can refresh your skills, driving a 6mt type-s wont be an issue

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

If you can drive a truck stick, there isn't much difference in the operation of a clutch in a car. As mentioned the TL is different than most cars but the learning curve isn't bad at all.

If you are even slightly interested in a 6MT, you should definitely test one out. I'm sure you'll be fine & it takes a good shit kicking to destroy a tranny

stevemk07

Honestly I cannot think of anyone... Everyone drives autos nowadays.... But if I do come across one I will see about it.

Any idea why the TL manual is different? Is that a good or bad thing?

SpiderX1016

It is different because it is a self-adjusting clutch. Its not a bad thing it just takes time to get use to. When I had to replace my clutch I switched it to a clutch from XLR8 and it has been easy to drive since. I do daily drive my TL and I don't regret going from an auto TL that needed a new tranny to a stick TL TypeS.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

It's because of that stupid check valve in the slave cylinder. It delays the clutch grab for amateurs but is a complete joke for ppl that want to drive aggressively.

truonghthe

Here is my dilemma right now buying a TL-S MT, if I ever get a MT TL its has to be the Type Slow. I only wanted two color combo possible in 3g TL (which is the rarest) KBP or MRP with two tone seat. if I ever found those two color with clean condition most likely I am looking at $16-$18k, for me that number is ridiculous and here why.

I paid sub $20k for my TL-S 6 years ago and now you asking high $10k? I mean I would understand if the car been well keep and maintain with 60-70k miles but mostly they around 105k miles if not more.



OP the reason why AT and MT TL is so drastically difference because in the MT you will feel the full power of the J35A8 (TL-S) this is possible because the gearing in the MT is much more aggressive than the 5spd slush box counter part. If you get a chance to test drive MT TL, the money shift which put a smile on your face is between 3rd to 4th or vice versa. RPM only decrease about 1.5k-1.7k which you fall right into max torque band and top end of the Vtec and engine pulling strong all the way to redline. You have about 5 seconds to shift into 5th gear where the auto took 20 years to reach redline. Also the MT unit is about 125-150 lbs lighter than the slush box and in the MT there is minimal power lost compare to AT do to fluid moving clutch packs.


Dyno number doesn't lie either

TL-S AT 225-230 WHP
TL-S MT 250-258 WHP

Both being 100% stock

stevemk07

Oh yes the check valve.... Hmmm.... Maybe it would be good for me then at the beginning? I wont be doing any days of thunder impressions for at least the first while anyway...

The wheel horse power makes sense... Doesnt the torque converter waste some power too when not engaged?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

i think it's a combo...

i took the check valve out; and while better.....the car is still hard to get out of 1st gear. and Ive had the car for 8 years now.
it's gotta be the self adjusting dual mass flywheel BECAUSE the clutch is NEVER consistent with bite. in a span of 5 mins, it could bite low and then it could bite a little bit higher...(I have a new factory clutch in.)

I want to get away from the Dual mass flywheel and head into a more conventional clutch + flywheel

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Really? My clutch grabs the same every time..

I thought the self adjusting clutch was to keep the clutch grabbing the same as the clutch wears out? The dual mass flywheel most def plays a part of it.

Scottwax

I was in the same boat. I was going to keep my Accord regardless but debated finding a 6 speed TL-S or a 6 speed '06/07 V6 Accord sedan. But then I realized I'm then going to basically have two of the same car, only difference being the transmission. Ended up getting a 6 speed G35 sedan. RWD, limited slip, sport suspension.

If your heart is set on a TL, then might as well get a 6 speed TL-S.

Scottwax

True but when we get our occasional snow or ice here, I'm driving the Accord instead of my G35 if its at all icy.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

my car has always displayed this funny characteristic. my car friends make fun of my for driving like a noob! lol

i've found that seating (I have short legs, i'm chinese...okay..) plays a BIG part in how well the car shifts.
and ive learned it's okay to slip the clutch a little to get smoother, crisper shifts.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

I hear you on the short leg dilemma, minus the Chinese part..

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Evilvirus did tell me that after he adjusted the clutch pedal/rod thingy, that his car shifted better.
i'm too lazy to fuck with the clutch rod travel. LOL

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Two comments:

• @stevemk07; I have slightly different advice from other folks. If you want to stay happy with your current TL, do not under any circumstances drive a TL with the 6MT; it will ruin the experience of driving your car.
• @justnspace; I also have the factory clutch and will be replacing it with the full LUK setup (dual-mass flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder with the deleted CDV); I do not experience any differential in the clutch engagement point from one shift to the next, and I'm trusting I will not when I replace the clutch. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the hydraulics in your clutch assembly.

stevemk07

Ok I will be careful

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

This is what I have been feeling. Sometimes when I'm trying to pull away I notice the car is picking up and going like it normally does and I have to let the clutch out more. It bothers me because I always start wondering if I have the e-brake on, or did I accidentally put it in 3rd gear... But no, the engagement seems to change sometimes.

WDPanda

I find my TLs clutch very easy and smooth. When i test drive new vehicles they feel like a game or toy at the clutch pedal. Almost useless.

stevemk07

The truth is coming out now...

Lol jk gents

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I bought the car used at 30k miles, had to replace clutch at 31k miles.
narrowing it down, it's gotta be the clutch rod adjustment.
the service manual states that you can adjust but dont adjust too far out!

as sometimes, the engagement point is HIGH, but then other times it feels like it grabs lower?
maybe I just suck at driving with three pedals.

Scottwax

No idea on that, last manual transmission Honda I've driven was my ex-wife's 67 hp 5 speed 1981 Honda Civic. IIRC correctly, it was very easy to drive, nice take-up, shifted really smooth.