Shaking & creeping along...
03-15-2012, 04:40 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Shaking & creeping along...
Landed a new job about a month ago and since my car has not been the same.
Last "service" done at my Local Acura dealer before I landed this job was a power steering pump replace / Engine mount replacement.
Reason I mention the new job is, I was given a Toyota Hylander Hybrid. Yes a hybrid.. Driving it all the time you get use to the slow--sluggish--no sound feel. Getting in my TL should be a totally different world right?
Not sure why but my car feels almost like its struggling to stay alive :why me:
Almost every time I start up its almost a struggle to turn over, while driving and slowing down I notice the car start to shake, especially at red lights. When its green and I try to shoot in front of everyone... I sound like I have a V8 Engine thats not going anywhere, I get a roar/whine/spaceship sound again very slow and sluggish.. WTF is going on
:why me:
I really don't even have the time to sit around and figure it out my self ill have to bring it into the dealer and have them see.. Any ideas?
Last "service" done at my Local Acura dealer before I landed this job was a power steering pump replace / Engine mount replacement.
Reason I mention the new job is, I was given a Toyota Hylander Hybrid. Yes a hybrid.. Driving it all the time you get use to the slow--sluggish--no sound feel. Getting in my TL should be a totally different world right?
Not sure why but my car feels almost like its struggling to stay alive :why me:
Almost every time I start up its almost a struggle to turn over, while driving and slowing down I notice the car start to shake, especially at red lights. When its green and I try to shoot in front of everyone... I sound like I have a V8 Engine thats not going anywhere, I get a roar/whine/spaceship sound again very slow and sluggish.. WTF is going on
:why me:I really don't even have the time to sit around and figure it out my self ill have to bring it into the dealer and have them see.. Any ideas?
03-15-2012, 05:19 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Landed a new job about a month ago and since my car has not been the same.
Last "service" done at my Local Acura dealer before I landed this job was a power steering pump replace / Engine mount replacement.
Reason I mention the new job is, I was given a Toyota Hylander Hybrid. Yes a hybrid.. Driving it all the time you get use to the slow--sluggish--no sound feel. Getting in my TL should be a totally different world right?
Not sure why but my car feels almost like its struggling to stay alive :why me:
Almost every time I start up its almost a struggle to turn over, while driving and slowing down I notice the car start to shake, especially at red lights. When its green and I try to shoot in front of everyone... I sound like I have a V8 Engine thats not going anywhere, I get a roar/whine/spaceship sound again very slow and sluggish.. WTF is going on:why me:
I really don't even have the time to sit around and figure it out my self ill have to bring it into the dealer and have them see.. Any ideas?
Last "service" done at my Local Acura dealer before I landed this job was a power steering pump replace / Engine mount replacement.
Reason I mention the new job is, I was given a Toyota Hylander Hybrid. Yes a hybrid.. Driving it all the time you get use to the slow--sluggish--no sound feel. Getting in my TL should be a totally different world right?
Not sure why but my car feels almost like its struggling to stay alive :why me:
Almost every time I start up its almost a struggle to turn over, while driving and slowing down I notice the car start to shake, especially at red lights. When its green and I try to shoot in front of everyone... I sound like I have a V8 Engine thats not going anywhere, I get a roar/whine/spaceship sound again very slow and sluggish.. WTF is going on
:why me:I really don't even have the time to sit around and figure it out my self ill have to bring it into the dealer and have them see.. Any ideas?
It is most likely that your EGR valve is stuck open during idle.
Easy easy fix. Take off your EGR valve, get some carb cleaner from an auto store. Spray, and clean the gunk that's been blocking the valve. Replace and be happy
03-15-2012, 05:41 PM
#3
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
I'm gonna clean mine anyways.
Mauybe we can see a DIY video from Mr.P1zzaman?
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 03-15-2012 at 05:45 PM.
03-15-2012, 05:43 PM
#4
Carpe Ominous
I think the TL is just jealous of the Toyota Hylander Hybrid
03-15-2012, 06:11 PM
#5
BTW: The first start-up after the fix was still slow and rough. The fuel map is all effed up from having the valve stuck open, so it will take a moment for the ECU to figure out it's now closed. Once the car got started it was all good.
Last edited by 94eg!; 03-15-2012 at 06:13 PM.
03-15-2012, 06:48 PM
#6
03-15-2012, 06:50 PM
#7
I had this too. Happened at the end of a long day out with the family, about a block from my house. I went to autozone after the CEL finally came on. After reading the code, the car REALLY didn't want to start. I had to just lay on the starter until it finally coughed to life. Once I removed the EGR, I saw a tiny stone of carbon stuck in the valve holding it open. I picked it out and the valve snapped shut like normal. Car drives fine once again. Hooray for free fixes!
BTW: The first start-up after the fix was still slow and rough. The fuel map is all effed up from having the valve stuck open, so it will take a moment for the ECU to figure out it's now closed. Once the car got started it was all good.
BTW: The first start-up after the fix was still slow and rough. The fuel map is all effed up from having the valve stuck open, so it will take a moment for the ECU to figure out it's now closed. Once the car got started it was all good.
Originally Posted by aty06tl
02-01-2007, 3:55 PM
aty06tl
Registered User
Post #11
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7 Hesitation
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi,
I got this from another forum and it works for a lot of people including me.
The Throttle is "Drive By Wire" and adapts to your particular driving
style. Do a TBA Throttle body adaptation.
1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter
turns over.
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back
to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas
pedal.
5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.
6. Drive the car as you always do.
Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving so
I noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -
Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2
minutes.
Keep the key in for the entire thing.
Seems to work on mine.
02-01-2007, 3:55 PM
aty06tl
Registered User
Post #11
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7 Hesitation
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi,
I got this from another forum and it works for a lot of people including me.
The Throttle is "Drive By Wire" and adapts to your particular driving
style. Do a TBA Throttle body adaptation.
1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter
turns over.
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back
to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas
pedal.
5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.
6. Drive the car as you always do.
Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving so
I noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -
Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2
minutes.
Keep the key in for the entire thing.
Seems to work on mine.
The following users liked this post:
John C. (03-18-2013)
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03-15-2012, 09:07 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well the whole "reset" thing was my first try!.. Didn't do anything.. I was told a week ago I'm really in need of a ugh--what did he call it.. fuel injection service!
Not sure how true it was or if its all BS... ERG Valve? No idea what that is!
HELP
Not sure how true it was or if its all BS... ERG Valve? No idea what that is!
HELP
03-15-2012, 09:26 PM
#10
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
What if I don't have a CEL?
Still okay to do it?
Still okay to do it?
03-15-2012, 09:36 PM
#11
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
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guitarplayer16 (03-15-2012)
03-15-2012, 11:25 PM
#12
This photo below shows the EGR vlave You need to remove that plastic engine atop the intake manifold (very easy with a nickle). The EGR valve is held on with two bolts. You can get them off with a 3/8" ratchet, 12mm short socket, and a long 3/8" extension. Once you get both bolts out, just un-plug the valve and pull it up and out. Then you can blast the ports with carb cleaner, or at least make sure the valve is closed with nothing stuck in it.
BTW: You don't "need" to replace the gasket, but it certainly couldn't hurt. You could at least give cleaning it a try before going out to buy a new gasket at the dealer.
03-16-2012, 11:28 AM
#13
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
03-16-2012, 12:02 PM
#14
I just thought I would add this PM conversation to the thread as it may be helpful to others...
Well your concerns are not without merit. It is always possible chemicals could cause other issues. When I pulled my EGR, I didn't spray it out with anything for this reason. Mine was stuck open and only required the small piece holding it open to be "picked" out. Since the valve and port are meant to contain hot dirty exhaust gas, I would say the valve mechanics should be well sealed from the port itself (like an exhaust valve). I really doubt there is lubrication in the port itself as it would burn up from the hot gasses.
The whole valve does seem to be serviceable, but honestly I have no idea if this is the case. If your car is running funny, then cleaning the EGR could be worth a shot before blowing $80 on a new one. At the very least, removing it and taking some pictures couldn't hurt whatsoever.
BTW: Walmart sells cans of carb cleaner for like $2 in the auto section. It's right next to the brake cleaner. Carb cleaner is very aggressive and can cut through nasty stuff. Brake cleaner is a little less aggressive, but still pretty rough. Walmart also sells CRC's QD Electric parts cleaner for like $5. This is the least aggressive spray cleaner and is safe on plastics. If your worried about damaging things, give this a try. All cleaners will wash out lubricants, but the least aggressive stuff is the safest.
I've used QD cleaner on RC car parts for years and years and years. It's one of the best products on the market for cleaning sensitive parts. I rebuild DC Electric race motors all the time and I use this stuff exclusively.
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Originally Posted by guitarplayer16
Hey dude,
Appreciate the mini DIY you set up in one of your posts for cleaning the EGR valve.
I just had a couple questions.
Is there a possibility the cleaner can screw up something mechanical or electrical on the EGR Valve?
Also, I don't have carb cleaner ATM.
Would brake cleaner work?
Also do I have to regrease anything (I read up on google about regreasing the EGR valve somewhere, maybe different car). Or is the task simple as just clean until shiny and put back in.
I must be overthinking.
The last thing I want is a CEL when my car didn't have one to begin with lol
Thanks!
Appreciate the mini DIY you set up in one of your posts for cleaning the EGR valve.
I just had a couple questions.
Is there a possibility the cleaner can screw up something mechanical or electrical on the EGR Valve?
Also, I don't have carb cleaner ATM.
Would brake cleaner work?
Also do I have to regrease anything (I read up on google about regreasing the EGR valve somewhere, maybe different car). Or is the task simple as just clean until shiny and put back in.
I must be overthinking.
The last thing I want is a CEL when my car didn't have one to begin with lol
Thanks!
The whole valve does seem to be serviceable, but honestly I have no idea if this is the case. If your car is running funny, then cleaning the EGR could be worth a shot before blowing $80 on a new one. At the very least, removing it and taking some pictures couldn't hurt whatsoever.
BTW: Walmart sells cans of carb cleaner for like $2 in the auto section. It's right next to the brake cleaner. Carb cleaner is very aggressive and can cut through nasty stuff. Brake cleaner is a little less aggressive, but still pretty rough. Walmart also sells CRC's QD Electric parts cleaner for like $5. This is the least aggressive spray cleaner and is safe on plastics. If your worried about damaging things, give this a try. All cleaners will wash out lubricants, but the least aggressive stuff is the safest.
I've used QD cleaner on RC car parts for years and years and years. It's one of the best products on the market for cleaning sensitive parts. I rebuild DC Electric race motors all the time and I use this stuff exclusively.
03-16-2012, 01:13 PM
#15
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
Screw it.
Just went out to try to remove the damn valve.
Diconnected the connector no problems.
Trying to remove the bolts, they wouldn't budge.
Tried PB Blaster and WD-40 to no avail.
Just went out to try to remove the damn valve.
Diconnected the connector no problems.
Trying to remove the bolts, they wouldn't budge.
Tried PB Blaster and WD-40 to no avail.
03-16-2012, 01:27 PM
#16
I had to slide a pipe over my ratchet handle for the front one. Then it broke loose with ease. Back one came off fine.
03-16-2012, 01:31 PM
#17
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
The back one I didn't even try LOL
It definitely looked like it could have come off easy.
The tiny ratchet gave me no leverage to break it loose :gheylaugh:
I even thought I would break the bolt right off!
I'll give it a go soon.
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guitarplayer16 (03-16-2012)
03-16-2012, 02:32 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Here is a pic of me getting ready to take out the EGR valve. This picture however does not show you anything educational but merely of me wearing this shirt saying "Don't worry... take your time."
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The following 2 users liked this post by P1zzaman:
94eg! (03-16-2012),
guitarplayer16 (03-16-2012)
03-16-2012, 02:47 PM
#21
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
Thanks dude 
04-02-2012, 08:41 PM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
sorry I have not been apart of this thread! super busy with work. Had 2 incidents since I last posted.
1. Driving home on 46 in NJ, around 6:00 PM traffic was crazy, it opened up and I started weaving in an out of traffic... Well not only did my check engine light flash for a good 10 minutes my card felt like it was going to turn off! I got in the slow lane and got off the first exit, my car still felt like it was going to just give out, sort of like I had no gas...but i did.. next day it was fine like nothing happened and light went off.
2. Filled up with gas Friday at 5. Drove for 20 minutes no traffic to my destination came home the next day did that all over and had less then a half a tank of gas... don't know whats wrong.
1. Driving home on 46 in NJ, around 6:00 PM traffic was crazy, it opened up and I started weaving in an out of traffic... Well not only did my check engine light flash for a good 10 minutes my card felt like it was going to turn off! I got in the slow lane and got off the first exit, my car still felt like it was going to just give out, sort of like I had no gas...but i did.. next day it was fine like nothing happened and light went off.
2. Filled up with gas Friday at 5. Drove for 20 minutes no traffic to my destination came home the next day did that all over and had less then a half a tank of gas... don't know whats wrong.
04-02-2012, 09:34 PM
#23
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
sorry I have not been apart of this thread! super busy with work. Had 2 incidents since I last posted.
1. Driving home on 46 in NJ, around 6:00 PM traffic was crazy, it opened up and I started weaving in an out of traffic... Well not only did my check engine light flash for a good 10 minutes my card felt like it was going to turn off! I got in the slow lane and got off the first exit, my car still felt like it was going to just give out, sort of like I had no gas...but i did.. next day it was fine like nothing happened and light went off.
2. Filled up with gas Friday at 5. Drove for 20 minutes no traffic to my destination came home the next day did that all over and had less then a half a tank of gas... don't know whats wrong.
1. Driving home on 46 in NJ, around 6:00 PM traffic was crazy, it opened up and I started weaving in an out of traffic... Well not only did my check engine light flash for a good 10 minutes my card felt like it was going to turn off! I got in the slow lane and got off the first exit, my car still felt like it was going to just give out, sort of like I had no gas...but i did.. next day it was fine like nothing happened and light went off.
2. Filled up with gas Friday at 5. Drove for 20 minutes no traffic to my destination came home the next day did that all over and had less then a half a tank of gas... don't know whats wrong.
When most people describe their car feeling like it is running out of gas, APP sensor is all I think about.
Your car went into limp mode.
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