Sequence: Brake Fluid Flush, Rotors & Pads
Sequence: Brake Fluid Flush, Rotors & Pads
So I've been doing my research for several weeks now on the brake fluid flush DIY and the Rotors & Pads DIY. I've gone through several threads on each topic and believe I'm ready to take on this task (thank you to all those who've posted numerous threads, DIYs, videos, and etc.) One remaining question that I did have, which I couldn't find on the threads was the order/sequence of what to do first. I plan on doing the brake fluid flush as well as replacing my rotors and pads this weekend. Just wanted to know which actual job I should do first. As in, should I first do the brake fluid flush and THEN replace the rotors and pads or should I do it the other way around? Does it even matter what sequence I do it in? Maybe this is an extremely dumb question or I missed this on the threads so please forgive my ignorance. Just wanted some advice from all those who actually have experience and insight. Thanks!
you may claim to be ignorant on the topic, but that's a pretty insightful question. do the fluid first while the calipers are still bolted up. two reasons:
1) when replacing pads you have to compress the caliper pistons which pushes fluid back up into the line. better to have fresh fluid versus pushing old cruddy fluid up the line.
2) there's a small chance you get brake fluid on the old pads and rotors. no big deal since you're replacing those anyway.
1) when replacing pads you have to compress the caliper pistons which pushes fluid back up into the line. better to have fresh fluid versus pushing old cruddy fluid up the line.
2) there's a small chance you get brake fluid on the old pads and rotors. no big deal since you're replacing those anyway.
I like to flush & bleed the brake system FIRST, because you might contaminate the new pads/rotors if you do it last. Unless you have a power bleeder that hooks up to the master cylinder, you'll need a 2nd person to bleed properly. Vacuum bleeding never worked for me.
SECOND, clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, then wash them in soap & water in bucket or plastic container w/ a stiff bristled brush. The brake cleaner removes the oily protective coating from the factory and the soapy water removes the residual metal particles from machining. Use a scouring pad or something similar to clean off the hub surface and then smear on some anti-seize.
THIRD, install new pads w/ re-greased slide pins and copper anti-seize on the backing plates and along the anti-squeal shims. You'll need a large C-clamp to compress the pistons back into the calipers; use one of the old brake pads to compress the piston back in straight.
SECOND, clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, then wash them in soap & water in bucket or plastic container w/ a stiff bristled brush. The brake cleaner removes the oily protective coating from the factory and the soapy water removes the residual metal particles from machining. Use a scouring pad or something similar to clean off the hub surface and then smear on some anti-seize.
THIRD, install new pads w/ re-greased slide pins and copper anti-seize on the backing plates and along the anti-squeal shims. You'll need a large C-clamp to compress the pistons back into the calipers; use one of the old brake pads to compress the piston back in straight.
Last edited by gwiffer; Oct 18, 2012 at 01:07 PM.
SECOND, clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, then wash them in soap & water in bucket or plastic container w/ a stiff bristled brush. The brake cleaner removes the oily protective coating from the factory and the soapy water removes the residual metal particles from machining. Use a scouring pad or something similar to clean off the hub surface and then smear on some anti-seize.
^You don't want to contaminate your brake pads. If you don't want to get the most life and best stopping out of your parts, then don't worry about what I said.
It might be a little excessive, but they are BRAKES. You might as well do it right & complete if you only do it once every few years.
It might be a little excessive, but they are BRAKES. You might as well do it right & complete if you only do it once every few years.
Last edited by gwiffer; Oct 18, 2012 at 03:00 PM.
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thanks for the advice so far, both sequences seem logical. so far we have a tie, two people for the flush and then pads&rotors and two people for pads&rotors and then flush...anyone else suggest one or the other?
I guess, but I never really saw that as an issue. If you have the proper tubing hooked up when you bleed there really shouldn't be any risk of contamination. I still prefer to crack the bleeders and push the pistons back first. That way the fluid in the calipers goes right out the bleeders rather than back up the lines towards the ABS unit and master cylinder. Plus then as geekybiker said it's less to flush when you are done.
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