Scratch!!
#1
Scratch!!
Driving home on the Thruway today I thought I hit a bird. Big thump, and what turns out to be a scratch on the windshield. When I got home, found out it was worse. Two big scratches in the Zainoed hood of my NBP! As I posted on the clear bra thread, whatever hit me was just above where my new clear bra ends. So now I'm faced with how to repair the thing. Would an insurance claim also cover a new clear bra if needed?
Actually, I'm leaning to trying to repair it myself with touch up paint pens from eBay, and perhaps the technology of paint blob-reduction (for lack of a better term), from the company called Langka. The paint pens are two-ended, and one side has Acura paint, and the other clear coat. For some reason they're only sold in Canada, but they are actual Acura products. I used one on my RSX and it was good. Black is gonna be tougher, but I really don't want to get the whole thing repainted (and mess with the whole clear bra issue). Plus, I figure if my cheapo solution doesn't work, I can always go to a pro...
Any sage words of advice?
Actually, I'm leaning to trying to repair it myself with touch up paint pens from eBay, and perhaps the technology of paint blob-reduction (for lack of a better term), from the company called Langka. The paint pens are two-ended, and one side has Acura paint, and the other clear coat. For some reason they're only sold in Canada, but they are actual Acura products. I used one on my RSX and it was good. Black is gonna be tougher, but I really don't want to get the whole thing repainted (and mess with the whole clear bra issue). Plus, I figure if my cheapo solution doesn't work, I can always go to a pro...
Any sage words of advice?
#3
Originally Posted by PA-TL
Hey, I'm no insurance expert. But I'd fight hard to have them cover the bra. Insurance would cover any other non-std part (ground effects, spoiler..).
#4
Originally Posted by Road Rage
I thought an insurance company was only obligated to pay for upgraded parts if there were full disclosure to them - it does not automatically convey, as they are entitled to more insurance to cover additional equipment.
Regulation-wise, my understanding is that they are not obligated to pay for the clear bra, but it might happen.
#5
no hope for the DIY solution?
Thanks for the quick responses about insurance, but I'm really hoping NOT to repaint the whole beautiful hood b/c of these scratches. One is very shallow, and the other deep but not to the bone (metal). What chance of making the repair with touch up and Langka? I've searched the forums and found mixed reviews of Langka, but it's surely worth a try, since even the best new paint won't compare to the original (or will it?)
Often wrong ,
Narikin
Often wrong ,
Narikin
#6
Originally Posted by narikin
Thanks for the quick responses about insurance, but I'm really hoping NOT to repaint the whole beautiful hood b/c of these scratches. One is very shallow, and the other deep but not to the bone (metal). What chance of making the repair with touch up and Langka? I've searched the forums and found mixed reviews of Langka, but it's surely worth a try, since even the best new paint won't compare to the original (or will it?)
Often wrong ,
Narikin
Often wrong ,
Narikin
#7
I have used touch up paint and langka before with great success. Depending on the size of the scratch and its location it can be made to look close to perfect. A few thoughts/recommendations.
1. Long scratchs (like a keying) are very tough to hide. It can be done and done well but it is a several day/week long process.
2. Chips are easier but do not be in a hurry.
3. Langa has some small brushes that come with their kit. They work well.
4. Put the paint on in layers and allow about an hour to dry between coats. Try to fill the chip/scratch without overlaping on the edges. I have used both the pen and standard Accura touch up with a Langka fine brush. Pens work better on larger scratches or chips. However, I prefer the Langka brush (order an extra one or two) and standard touch up as I can control application better. The pen's color match is good as is the US brush touch up (the brush is useless) however ... shake well before each application. Because it is metallic paint the match will not be perfect but darn close if you shake it well. I even shake during application before I redip the brush. Continue to fill up the scratch till it is almost level again waiting after each coat. Then add some clear coat or mix clear with the colored paint (either method works.) If the touch up seems too thick (it usually is), thin it with lacquer thinner. Your goal is a blob that covers the scratch but does not overlap the original paint. Any overlap will need to be removed by the langka and it sometimes pulls the paint out of the chip so the less overlap the better. Now let the filled chip dry -- langka says at least an hour or two. I wait 12 to 24 hours (usually closer to 24.) For long scratchs (like a keying) I wait longer I have waited for days with no problem. I also attack it in segments (3 or four inches at a time) that way if I goon it up I only ruin the most recent segment (clean it off with langka) rather then starting over for the whole scratch.
4. After you have your blob it is time to use the langka. Steal a roomates relatively new t shirt and follow the directions langka provides. Using the card will get it level. The trick here is to not be aggressive. Try to rub only the scratch -- not the other good paint. You will naturally overlap some of the paint since the card is bigger than the scratch (usually) but six inch strokes are excessive. For long scratches I try to go perendicular to the scratch if possible and work one area at a time. (again if I take off to much paint it is a small area to rework vice a long scratch to start over.) Hit it with a few strokes 10 or so with the langka on the card. Clean off the langka residue and inspect your work. Repeat until it is level. Where most people fail is they will use the langka to try to get it smooth all at once and clean out part of the paint in the chip. Then you need to refill and start over. The full langka kit comes with a precleaner and sealer for when you are done -- both work well. After the sealer is applied. I wait a day or two then buff the area. I use a Porter cable random orbital but hand buffing works. Then re-Zaino.
FWIW I fixed a 10 inch key scratch on my wife's car it was so smooth it was undetectable to touch and invisible except from one angle. My wife could not find it after the repair.
Again this is not a quick process but it does work. So be methodical.
Hope this helps.
ATB,
Tom
1. Long scratchs (like a keying) are very tough to hide. It can be done and done well but it is a several day/week long process.
2. Chips are easier but do not be in a hurry.
3. Langa has some small brushes that come with their kit. They work well.
4. Put the paint on in layers and allow about an hour to dry between coats. Try to fill the chip/scratch without overlaping on the edges. I have used both the pen and standard Accura touch up with a Langka fine brush. Pens work better on larger scratches or chips. However, I prefer the Langka brush (order an extra one or two) and standard touch up as I can control application better. The pen's color match is good as is the US brush touch up (the brush is useless) however ... shake well before each application. Because it is metallic paint the match will not be perfect but darn close if you shake it well. I even shake during application before I redip the brush. Continue to fill up the scratch till it is almost level again waiting after each coat. Then add some clear coat or mix clear with the colored paint (either method works.) If the touch up seems too thick (it usually is), thin it with lacquer thinner. Your goal is a blob that covers the scratch but does not overlap the original paint. Any overlap will need to be removed by the langka and it sometimes pulls the paint out of the chip so the less overlap the better. Now let the filled chip dry -- langka says at least an hour or two. I wait 12 to 24 hours (usually closer to 24.) For long scratchs (like a keying) I wait longer I have waited for days with no problem. I also attack it in segments (3 or four inches at a time) that way if I goon it up I only ruin the most recent segment (clean it off with langka) rather then starting over for the whole scratch.
4. After you have your blob it is time to use the langka. Steal a roomates relatively new t shirt and follow the directions langka provides. Using the card will get it level. The trick here is to not be aggressive. Try to rub only the scratch -- not the other good paint. You will naturally overlap some of the paint since the card is bigger than the scratch (usually) but six inch strokes are excessive. For long scratches I try to go perendicular to the scratch if possible and work one area at a time. (again if I take off to much paint it is a small area to rework vice a long scratch to start over.) Hit it with a few strokes 10 or so with the langka on the card. Clean off the langka residue and inspect your work. Repeat until it is level. Where most people fail is they will use the langka to try to get it smooth all at once and clean out part of the paint in the chip. Then you need to refill and start over. The full langka kit comes with a precleaner and sealer for when you are done -- both work well. After the sealer is applied. I wait a day or two then buff the area. I use a Porter cable random orbital but hand buffing works. Then re-Zaino.
FWIW I fixed a 10 inch key scratch on my wife's car it was so smooth it was undetectable to touch and invisible except from one angle. My wife could not find it after the repair.
Again this is not a quick process but it does work. So be methodical.
Hope this helps.
ATB,
Tom
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#8
Originally Posted by trube78
A few thoughts/recommendations.
...
Hope this helps.
ATB,
Tom
...
Hope this helps.
ATB,
Tom
I'll post results in a week or two!
Thanks again ,
historyprof
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