zeta

iTrader: (1)

If you are so inclined to put in the work & purchase the necessary parts, why not?

Chad05TL

I see that now in the Helm book .. It says to remove the inboard joint first.. Then slide the damper off.
interestingly, The helm book actually shows how to dissassemble the outboard joint.. And it says to mark the drive shaft and the outboard joint at the same spot. So when they are realigned, they match up.
I would imagine that has something to do with the balance of the assembly.. but I am not for sure.
Also, the clamps alone on the boots are not exactly symmetrical. especailly after you clamp it or weld the clamps inplace.. whatever style they are.. So it is easy to see how the assembly can be out of balance. But a clamp doesnt weigh much. maybe all of it together could be enough to make a vibration? But I think Wheel Hubs may not be 100% balanced as well. Thats why rotating your tire on the spindle may actually help vibrations. And, actually its hard to find a good wheel balancing machine. And even if a tire does balance out on a machine, there can be high and low spots in the rim or the tire as well. So that is why places like Discount Tire will rotate the tire on the rim and rebalance it.. Then run the "road force balance" again. I had that done on my car. because I bought used rims that were less that perfect.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

In addition, if one were concerned with rust developing under & around the rubber damper, over the long term, once their proper position has been established, per the Helms, placing some silicone seal on the shaft and edges of the damper may inhibit rust from occurring?