Attached below. Enjoy.

 

Crikey. For their price of JUST the rear pads and rotors, you could go and buy the front AND rear Powerstop Z26 ENTIRE kit brand new for less money off Rockauto. Race brakes!

 

Dealerships are the worst.

 

You mean stealerships?

 

eggzachary.

 

Alignment seems ok, as shops around me do them for ~$110.
Tires - I assume tire price is included, so depending what they picked it might be not that bad.
$450 for upper arm is bad, considering OEM arm online costs ~$80, and is about 1h-1.5h of work
Battery seems ok if they use OEM
Brakes - they are just trying to steal your money. Are rear calipers really broken?

 

@RedsTL, do you have any indication the work listed is even remotely necessary?

 

Yeah, I took it in for a diagnostic as I kept hearing a loud grinding type sound when stopping (occasionally) and a rotational type sound when driving (occasionally). Additionally, I do have a slight vibration when operating in all conditions.

 

So, from my perspective, here's what I'd do in your shoes:

• Visit a competent independent garage which specializes in Hondas and get a second opinion.
• Given the symptoms you describe above, I'm betting they'll find one or more brake pads worn to the minimum (or beyond). Unless there is evidence of a failed caliper, a brake job on that end of the car is warranted (clean and lube the caliper and pins, replace pads and rotors). FWIW, I would also recommend a complete brake fluid flush unless you know for sure that service has been performed within the last two or three years.
• Have the tires balanced; if the vibration persists (especially if the vibration is most noticeable under mild acceleration), consider replacing the axles. If an axle replacement is warranted, several members here, myself included, have gone with the relatively inexpensive APWI axles and have had stellar results.

 

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the insight. Probably my last visit to a dealership, but at least I got to try out a new RDX for a couple days.

 

Wowsers... If it needs immediate attention, you should just pay and have them do it all, right now. You have no choice!

 

I have a break down for you.


OEM upper arm is $130/ each

4 Centric premium with black painted blank rotor F+R $200

Akebono SP2001 $60

Rear caliper rebuilt kit $21 per side.

LCA bushing $72 for both.

4 new tires cost roughly $700 with mount and balance after tax (Conti or Michelin tires) dealer will put crappy brand name tires.

Battery ($120) at Autozone, yes delaer battery suck anyway (the one that they are selling)


Really you just paying for upper arm replacement and LCA bushing. which should not exceeding $900 of labor.

 

I assume you're joking. Things which in dealership service departments identify as "needs immediate attention", nine times out of ten don't; they just say that to lighten your bank account.

 

red text = sarcasm horsie

 

Thanks, didn't know that; you'd think after my years on boards in general and nearly three years here I would have long since figured that out.

 

Gotta love the deal(steal)ership visits. If you haven’t already looked around for private shops, I would take horseshoez advice. I found a place a block from my office that had really high reviews (new to area). Talked to the owner for a bit and he agreed to install my parts. Don’t have access to lift or garage anymore so can’t do any of the work (did all work prior).

Dealership is reserved for warranty work only (trans fluid change). They won’t even price match (or come close) to oil change I get at Firestone so I can’t even go there to get it all done at once. Little extra travel to make sure she’s taken care of.

Good luck getting the noise taken care of. Sounds like the brakes are worn. As long as your calipers are ok (rare for them to go bad) I’m assuming there is some uneven wear on the pads/rotors which is why they race ended everything to be done. Quick peak with a flashlight you should be able to see for yourself if there is anything immediate (metal on metal etc). Pad thickness is usually easy to see even without taking the wheels off.

 

Geez, those prices look like they're working on an M3 or G63 or something.

$445 for an upper control arm

Even at the dealer price of $131 for the part, $300+ for labor? That's a <1hr job. Lordy....

 

Rear Calipers/Rotors/Pads is probably around $250-$300 and all of an hour to change out.

 

well its 1.5 hour per each side which is not bad, however its the labor rate that kill you ($165/ hour) in my city. BMW and Mercedes Benz labor rate is $250-$265, Lexus $185/ hour so choose your poison wisely.

 

Took it to a local mechanic and he said I only need new pads/rotors on the rear of the vehicle. He said the dealership was trying to "get me good". haha.

Any concerns with this analysis?

 

Most of item on the list is check able by your self, LCA crack can be inspected with the car still on the ground with steering wheel turn outward. Do you have sticky rear caliper? We can't diagnosis the car via internet if your mechanic said only pad and rotor then trust him.

 

my indy just did 4 corner brake/rotors for ~$700, so, the hardest of passes.

EDIT: forgot that included mount & balance on a replacement rim

 

These prices are meant to catch suckers or compel trade-ins. And I don't think dealerships are chasing trade-ins on 3Gs anymore.

 

Who would want another Acura at that point