Ran a 350Z Nismo
#41
16GS FSprt,03Max,12 335is
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You should with that, may even dip to 12.9** with a great launch and shifts. Yeah that couple hundred extra pounds makes all the difference in the stock times between the G and Z
Last edited by Monte TLS,MAX; 08-05-2011 at 04:42 PM.
#42
Senior Moderator
...just gave me flashbacks to when I owned my 02 Maxima. Upgrading from RE92s to Falken Ziex 512s worked miracles in that instance.
#43
16GS FSprt,03Max,12 335is
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OMG i didnt mention them when I had them on it........In both Z and Max when they had them is was down right scary driving in the rain as you recall....lol, just bad tires Nissan chooses for the Max and Z. I'm running Yoki's on the Max and Pilot Sports on the Z, so so much better in all respects!
#44
2005 AM at/navi
p.s.
i dont think my z would lose to a n/a tl-s either....
#45
What year is yours? I think it would be A LOT closer then you think. This is a vid of an 06 350Z vs. An 08 TL-S both stock from what I see... The 09 are only 20+hp more then the earlier years so it won't be by much if you did win... unless you have the 350 that is under 300hp cause you'd lose no question...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gaKD...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gaKD...e_gdata_player
#46
Suzuka Master
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The way the Z suddenly slowed after the start I think it hit the rev limiter. Hit the limiter automatic loss.
#47
16GS FSprt,03Max,12 335is
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What year is yours? I think it would be A LOT closer then you think. This is a vid of an 06 350Z vs. An 08 TL-S both stock from what I see... The 09 are only 20+hp more then the earlier years so it won't be by much if you did win... unless you have the 350 that is under 300hp cause you'd lose no question...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gaKD...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gaKD...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_VbsXSS7PI
#48
All motor
Did the 370 have a passenger or something? It seems a little odd since MOST 370s trap 104+ stock.
#49
Suzuka Master
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Mehh. Depends which Z you have. If you have the DE, you'd be surprised at how quick a bolt on TL-s 6MT is. He would probably beat you. If you have the HR it'd still probably be close if he is consistently beating 370s.
Did the 370 have a passenger or something? It seems a little odd since MOST 370s trap 104+ stock.
Did the 370 have a passenger or something? It seems a little odd since MOST 370s trap 104+ stock.
I would really be surprised if the TL was that quick because even with superchargers they have trouble making 13.1-13.2. The 3G TL was quick when it first came out but that is over 8 years ago.
http://www.dragtimes.com/Acura--TL-Drag-Racing.html
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan--370Z-Drag-Racing.html
#50
2005 AM at/navi
What year is yours? I think it would be A LOT closer then you think. This is a vid of an 06 350Z vs. An 08 TL-S both stock from what I see... The 09 are only 20+hp more then the earlier years so it won't be by much if you did win... unless you have the 350 that is under 300hp cause you'd lose no question...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gaKD...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gaKD...e_gdata_player
#51
Burning Brakes
I love how modded TL-S' have 290whp+ and are constantly beating cars that run low to mid 13s at 4 to 6mph faster yet a modded TL-S has yet to break the 13.9@102mph range. If TL-S' were seeing 105mph in the 1/4 mile, I could believe it, but I think quickest we've seen so far is 101mph with most in the 99-100mph range. ET is easy to mess up, but MPH is consistent regardless of how bad your 60' is. MPH shows available HP and I'm just not seeing how a car that goes 99-101mph is walking one that does 105-108mph. That's a huge difference in power to weight.
#52
Burning Brakes
i actually do have that Z that is at 287 hp, but u need to do some reading on that Z. when i bought it i was looking for an 06+, but on all the forums it said that those transmissions suck and they have more hp but less torque, all the forum members say that the 03 - 05 was quicker off the line due to the older vq35 engine and a significant weight gain in 06+ the hr simply revs higher but its only a little faster and those are too expensive, i wanted something i could pay cash and have money to modd right away, now i have had it for 4 months and im fully bolted, cai, and other stuff. besides the 03-05 models have higher gains when u do similar mods compared to the newer ones. i really did my reading and i think i chose wisely according to my needs. some of the mods i have are not available for the hr model like the plenum mani spacer wich is a huge gain in torque, and if u try too put an intake on the hr it loses hp, my friend has one an it was dynoed. im not saying by any means that tl-s are slow but the Z are quicker any day.
You're kidding yourself if you an intake, especially a CAI is actually improving power on your VQ35DE. It's a well known fact that intakes on the VQ(regardless of variety) either don't add power and often times reduce power.
I love my VQ35DE dearly, but I'm not going to lie to myself and say that with bolt-ons, it's going to outperform a VQ35HR A 5/16" spacer is good for around 8whp/10wtq. That's it. With a spacer, ART pipes, catback, and tuning, a 6MT VQ35DE will make about 255-260whp on a Dynojet. The VQ35HR starts off with around 260-265whp plus it has a wider powerband which really dictates acceleration. Add ART-pipes, tuning, and catback to the HR and you're in the 280-290whp range.
A stock 03-06 6MT Z is a legit 13.8-13.9@102mph car in most hands. The 07-08s will go 13.5-13.6@105mph. With good driving and conditions, you can subtract another .3 and add 1-2mph.
As for the 07-08 weight gain, the weight added was from the HR motor. There were no chassis changes. The car gained about 30lbs with the new motor. Hardly anything to impact performance.
#53
You'll Never Walk Alone
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I love how modded TL-S' have 290whp+ and are constantly beating cars that run low to mid 13s at 4 to 6mph faster yet a modded TL-S has yet to break the 13.9@102mph range. If TL-S' were seeing 105mph in the 1/4 mile, I could believe it, but I think quickest we've seen so far is 101mph with most in the 99-100mph range. ET is easy to mess up, but MPH is consistent regardless of how bad your 60' is. MPH shows available HP and I'm just not seeing how a car that goes 99-101mph is walking one that does 105-108mph. That's a huge difference in power to weight.
#54
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#55
All motor
I love how modded TL-S' have 290whp+ and are constantly beating cars that run low to mid 13s at 4 to 6mph faster yet a modded TL-S has yet to break the 13.9@102mph range. If TL-S' were seeing 105mph in the 1/4 mile, I could believe it, but I think quickest we've seen so far is 101mph with most in the 99-100mph range. ET is easy to mess up, but MPH is consistent regardless of how bad your 60' is. MPH shows available HP and I'm just not seeing how a car that goes 99-101mph is walking one that does 105-108mph. That's a huge difference in power to weight.
#56
2005 AM at/navi
You're kidding yourself if you an intake, especially a CAI is actually improving power on your VQ35DE. It's a well known fact that intakes on the VQ(regardless of variety) either don't add power and often times reduce power.
I love my VQ35DE dearly, but I'm not going to lie to myself and say that with bolt-ons, it's going to outperform a VQ35HR A 5/16" spacer is good for around 8whp/10wtq. That's it. With a spacer, ART pipes, catback, and tuning, a 6MT VQ35DE will make about 255-260whp on a Dynojet. The VQ35HR starts off with around 260-265whp plus it has a wider powerband which really dictates acceleration. Add ART-pipes, tuning, and catback to the HR and you're in the 280-290whp range.
A stock 03-06 6MT Z is a legit 13.8-13.9@102mph car in most hands. The 07-08s will go 13.5-13.6@105mph. With good driving and conditions, you can subtract another .3 and add 1-2mph.
As for the 07-08 weight gain, the weight added was from the HR motor. There were no chassis changes. The car gained about 30lbs with the new motor. Hardly anything to impact performance.
I love my VQ35DE dearly, but I'm not going to lie to myself and say that with bolt-ons, it's going to outperform a VQ35HR A 5/16" spacer is good for around 8whp/10wtq. That's it. With a spacer, ART pipes, catback, and tuning, a 6MT VQ35DE will make about 255-260whp on a Dynojet. The VQ35HR starts off with around 260-265whp plus it has a wider powerband which really dictates acceleration. Add ART-pipes, tuning, and catback to the HR and you're in the 280-290whp range.
A stock 03-06 6MT Z is a legit 13.8-13.9@102mph car in most hands. The 07-08s will go 13.5-13.6@105mph. With good driving and conditions, you can subtract another .3 and add 1-2mph.
As for the 07-08 weight gain, the weight added was from the HR motor. There were no chassis changes. The car gained about 30lbs with the new motor. Hardly anything to impact performance.
you are correct about the 5/16" spacer, but i dont know why you assumed i have that one. i have the new 5/8" which is good for 13hp/17wtq on average, that is a big difference. as for the weight gain i recall some dude posting a rediculous number like close to 200lbs hevier but, you can be right on that one...i dont think im lying to myself like you said..
#57
All motor
alright first of all if you read my post correctly i said my car is quicker than in the 1/4 mile than the 06 model, then i said the hr was too expensive for me. i never said my car was quicker than the HR. i was responding to the guy who said my engine was slower than the 06, and now that i think about it i think the 05 and 06 have the 300 hp and the 03 and 04 have the 287 but are still quicker in the 1/4 due to the torque and powerband. i stated that the HR was out of my budget because i wanted to buy cash and start modding quickly.
you are correct about the 5/16" spacer, but i dont know why you assumed i have that one. i have the new 5/8" which is good for 13hp/17wtq on average, that is a big difference. as for the weight gain i recall some dude posting a rediculous number like close to 200lbs hevier but, you can be right on that one...i dont think im lying to myself like you said..
you are correct about the 5/16" spacer, but i dont know why you assumed i have that one. i have the new 5/8" which is good for 13hp/17wtq on average, that is a big difference. as for the weight gain i recall some dude posting a rediculous number like close to 200lbs hevier but, you can be right on that one...i dont think im lying to myself like you said..
#58
2003 Accord Coupe V6
iTrader: (2)
I love how modded TL-S' have 290whp+ and are constantly beating cars that run low to mid 13s at 4 to 6mph faster yet a modded TL-S has yet to break the 13.9@102mph range. If TL-S' were seeing 105mph in the 1/4 mile, I could believe it, but I think quickest we've seen so far is 101mph with most in the 99-100mph range. ET is easy to mess up, but MPH is consistent regardless of how bad your 60' is. MPH shows available HP and I'm just not seeing how a car that goes 99-101mph is walking one that does 105-108mph. That's a huge difference in power to weight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GtqkUi36s0
#59
Burning Brakes
alright first of all if you read my post correctly i said my car is quicker than in the 1/4 mile than the 06 model, then i said the hr was too expensive for me. i never said my car was quicker than the HR. i was responding to the guy who said my engine was slower than the 06, and now that i think about it i think the 05 and 06 have the 300 hp and the 03 and 04 have the 287 but are still quicker in the 1/4 due to the torque and powerband. i stated that the HR was out of my budget because i wanted to buy cash and start modding quickly.
you are correct about the 5/16" spacer, but i dont know why you assumed i have that one. i have the new 5/8" which is good for 13hp/17wtq on average, that is a big difference. as for the weight gain i recall some dude posting a rediculous number like close to 200lbs hevier but, you can be right on that one...i dont think im lying to myself like you said..
you are correct about the 5/16" spacer, but i dont know why you assumed i have that one. i have the new 5/8" which is good for 13hp/17wtq on average, that is a big difference. as for the weight gain i recall some dude posting a rediculous number like close to 200lbs hevier but, you can be right on that one...i dont think im lying to myself like you said..
You're sadly mistaken if you think the 5/8 spacer makes superior gains over the 5/16" spacer. On the dyno, the difference is 1-2hp at the very end of the powerband and sacrifices a little power down low compared to the 5/16" spacer. Even Tony at Motordyne admits this and says his 5/16" spacer delivers the best overall performance compared to the 5/8" spacer. Also, spacers don't make the gains you're quoting. Not even close unless you're talking about Church's Wonder Dyno out in Socal where everything including Zs, Gs, TLs, etc make 20-30whp more than any other car in the nation.
You also said you researched your mods before purchasing. If that was the case, then why would you go with a CAI when it's a known fact that the stock intake (Revup airbox ideally) is the best for performance and power? Increasing intake runner length kills the engine's ability to breath in the upper rpms plus the metal pipe heat soaks and the CAI air source is stagnent hot air in the fender vs the cooler stock air source from the nose of the 350Z.
#60
2005 AM at/navi
I think that a modded TL-S 6MT is capable of being much quicker than 13.9@102MPH. I just don't think that there are many people with that car that mod it and take it to the track. Plus it probably takes a pretty skilled driver to get the launch down with all that power going to the front wheels. I have seen a 14.29@99MPH for a TL-S Auto with just CAI in great conditions. Anyway check out this video of a TL-S 6MT vs a IS350 at the track. Now this 6MT driver knows how to drive!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GtqkUi36s0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GtqkUi36s0
#61
Burning Brakes
I think that a modded TL-S 6MT is capable of being much quicker than 13.9@102MPH. I just don't think that there are many people with that car that mod it and take it to the track. Plus it probably takes a pretty skilled driver to get the launch down with all that power going to the front wheels. I have seen a 14.29@99MPH for a TL-S Auto with just CAI in great conditions.
You're right, a modded TLS 6MT can be much quicker than a 13.9@102. The recipe is quite simple. 26" slicks, 6000rpms launch, and prayer. There's no reason why it can't go 13.4s@102mph with a lower 1.9 60', possibly high 1.8. The question is can the 6MT handle that sort of abuse?
#62
2005 AM at/navi
I agree, a stock 300hp Revup is really no quicker than the regular DE motor, but it's not slower. It's simply a wash. However, you said the HR was just a little quicker. You also said the "newer" engines don't post as good of gains as the DEs. That's false on all accounts. The HRs are significantly quicker and they tend to make stronger gains with bolt-ons. Yes, they don't have plenum spacers available, but that's a non-issue with the superior flowing dual throttle body intake manifold that can easily sustain 8200rpms. The Revups also make stronger gains because they have variable cam timing on the exhaust cam instead of just the intake cam. This gives a tuner more ability to extract power in the midrange. Too bad the Revup is a POS oil burner.
You're sadly mistaken if you think the 5/8 spacer makes superior gains over the 5/16" spacer. On the dyno, the difference is 1-2hp at the very end of the powerband and sacrifices a little power down low compared to the 5/16" spacer. Even Tony at Motordyne admits this and says his 5/16" spacer delivers the best overall performance compared to the 5/8" spacer. Also, spacers don't make the gains you're quoting. Not even close unless you're talking about Church's Wonder Dyno out in Socal where everything including Zs, Gs, TLs, etc make 20-30whp more than any other car in the nation.
You also said you researched your mods before purchasing. If that was the case, then why would you go with a CAI when it's a known fact that the stock intake (Revup airbox ideally) is the best for performance and power? Increasing intake runner length kills the engine's ability to breath in the upper rpms plus the metal pipe heat soaks and the CAI air source is stagnent hot air in the fender vs the cooler stock air source from the nose of the 350Z.
You're sadly mistaken if you think the 5/8 spacer makes superior gains over the 5/16" spacer. On the dyno, the difference is 1-2hp at the very end of the powerband and sacrifices a little power down low compared to the 5/16" spacer. Even Tony at Motordyne admits this and says his 5/16" spacer delivers the best overall performance compared to the 5/8" spacer. Also, spacers don't make the gains you're quoting. Not even close unless you're talking about Church's Wonder Dyno out in Socal where everything including Zs, Gs, TLs, etc make 20-30whp more than any other car in the nation.
You also said you researched your mods before purchasing. If that was the case, then why would you go with a CAI when it's a known fact that the stock intake (Revup airbox ideally) is the best for performance and power? Increasing intake runner length kills the engine's ability to breath in the upper rpms plus the metal pipe heat soaks and the CAI air source is stagnent hot air in the fender vs the cooler stock air source from the nose of the 350Z.
and you said yourself that the 5/16 spacer gives a gain of 8hp and that the 5/8 gives one or two more. i spoke to motordyne through email and i did not get the info you got they said i would get better results with the 5/8" eliminates heat soak because of the larger area for it to breathe and i also spoke to skunk2 racing since they make it aswell. and about the cai everybody claims that it gives power and this and that as long as you have the cold air and not the ram air. now i think i want to go back to stock...lol
#63
Burning Brakes
damn, you really seem to know ur stuff, maybe i did my research on the wrong forum, but my buddy's HR constantly got lower hp readings with the cai on his HR and im sure it was a bolted on correctly.
and you said yourself that the 5/16 spacer gives a gain of 8hp and that the 5/8 gives one or two more. i spoke to motordyne through email and i did not get the info you got they said i would get better results with the 5/8" eliminates heat soak because of the larger area for it to breathe and i also spoke to skunk2 racing since they make it aswell. and about the cai everybody claims that it gives power and this and that as long as you have the cold air and not the ram air. now i think i want to go back to stock...lol
and you said yourself that the 5/16 spacer gives a gain of 8hp and that the 5/8 gives one or two more. i spoke to motordyne through email and i did not get the info you got they said i would get better results with the 5/8" eliminates heat soak because of the larger area for it to breathe and i also spoke to skunk2 racing since they make it aswell. and about the cai everybody claims that it gives power and this and that as long as you have the cold air and not the ram air. now i think i want to go back to stock...lol
Put the stock intake back on, get a Revup airbox (if you don't have one), and use OEM or Napa Gold paper filters and replace every 15K miles. Trust me, your car will better overall and performance will be more consistent with temp flucuations.
Your next mods should be some tuning (might get a little more power ~5-10whp) and possibly a 3.69 gear pumpkin swap from the 07/08 G35. I swapped out my 5AT 3.34 pumpkin for an 05 6MT 3.54 pumpkin. It's one of my favorite mods and is a simple (but heavy) bolt-in job. It won't be a huge change, but it will be noticeable in 1st and 2nd.
#66
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
I think one Type-S 6MT owner on here has actually taken his car to the track, and then actually posted his results of 14.0-14.10 @ 100 mph. That was bone stock, but no slip was posted.
Problem is, it's all speculation until people actually go to the track and get slips and videos. Even with all the heavily bolted/turbo'd/SC'd TL's, most just aren't interested in really seeing what their car can do in a controlled environment.
With a bone stock S 6MT being capable of 100-101 mph, 104-105 is definitely possible with bolt ons and especially the new ECU. An extra 40 or so whp and it's done.
Problem is, it's all speculation until people actually go to the track and get slips and videos. Even with all the heavily bolted/turbo'd/SC'd TL's, most just aren't interested in really seeing what their car can do in a controlled environment.
With a bone stock S 6MT being capable of 100-101 mph, 104-105 is definitely possible with bolt ons and especially the new ECU. An extra 40 or so whp and it's done.
#67
Under construction
iTrader: (3)
I think one Type-S 6MT owner on here has actually taken his car to the track, and then actually posted his results of 14.0-14.10 @ 100 mph. That was bone stock, but no slip was posted.
Problem is, it's all speculation until people actually go to the track and get slips and videos. Even with all the heavily bolted/turbo'd/SC'd TL's, most just aren't interested in really seeing what their car can do in a controlled environment.
With a bone stock S 6MT being capable of 100-101 mph, 104-105 is definitely possible with bolt ons and especially the new ECU. An extra 40 or so whp and it's done.
Problem is, it's all speculation until people actually go to the track and get slips and videos. Even with all the heavily bolted/turbo'd/SC'd TL's, most just aren't interested in really seeing what their car can do in a controlled environment.
With a bone stock S 6MT being capable of 100-101 mph, 104-105 is definitely possible with bolt ons and especially the new ECU. An extra 40 or so whp and it's done.
Anx1300c, you'll run over 103mph with your mods. You already know that Take a ride in a stock 6MT and see how your modded TL feels like compared to it...very very quick lol
#68
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Actually gonna hit test n tune late Sept, but I doubt I'll get any more than 101 and maybe some change. When I had intake and catback (not sure if I had the pulley or not) I ran 99.4 on my only run, so I doubt the HFC's, J pipe and third cat delete will get me any more than 101. Before I did the HFC's I did a couple 40-80 rolls with a stock 6MT and pulled about a car length each time. I'm going to focus more on ET, and see what these Nitto drag radials can do. I'm going to start them off ~ 20psi and work down from there, and I don't plan on being gentle with my car.
#69
2005 AM at/navi
Motordyne sells the 5/8" spacer because many wanted as much volume as possible. It's not really about the cooling effects because the manifold is metal and heat soaks after a while.
Put the stock intake back on, get a Revup airbox (if you don't have one), and use OEM or Napa Gold paper filters and replace every 15K miles. Trust me, your car will better overall and performance will be more consistent with temp flucuations.
Your next mods should be some tuning (might get a little more power ~5-10whp) and possibly a 3.69 gear pumpkin swap from the 07/08 G35. I swapped out my 5AT 3.34 pumpkin for an 05 6MT 3.54 pumpkin. It's one of my favorite mods and is a simple (but heavy) bolt-in job. It won't be a huge change, but it will be noticeable in 1st and 2nd.
Put the stock intake back on, get a Revup airbox (if you don't have one), and use OEM or Napa Gold paper filters and replace every 15K miles. Trust me, your car will better overall and performance will be more consistent with temp flucuations.
Your next mods should be some tuning (might get a little more power ~5-10whp) and possibly a 3.69 gear pumpkin swap from the 07/08 G35. I swapped out my 5AT 3.34 pumpkin for an 05 6MT 3.54 pumpkin. It's one of my favorite mods and is a simple (but heavy) bolt-in job. It won't be a huge change, but it will be noticeable in 1st and 2nd.
i have a buddy with a silverado that regeared upto a 4.11 and the thing was a beast. when he was at his regular gearing i would beat him in my TL everytime. the launche he would king of be a bumper ahead but then i would pull awau=y after every gear, after that swap he puts like a whole car by the time i go into third and he pulls away from there. it is a really good mod and he loved it.
and about the intake, i do have my stock system but i also love the way the cai sounds..lol... u think im losing a lot of power?
#70
All motor
Actually gonna hit test n tune late Sept, but I doubt I'll get any more than 101 and maybe some change. When I had intake and catback (not sure if I had the pulley or not) I ran 99.4 on my only run, so I doubt the HFC's, J pipe and third cat delete will get me any more than 101. Before I did the HFC's I did a couple 40-80 rolls with a stock 6MT and pulled about a car length each time. I'm going to focus more on ET, and see what these Nitto drag radials can do. I'm going to start them off ~ 20psi and work down from there, and I don't plan on being gentle with my car.
FYI I trapped 100.82 with CAI/RV6 V1 Jpipe. I'd imagine you could hit 102 with your setup without much trouble.
After my tune I'm hoping to hit 104 but that could be wishful thinking...I've yet to hit 101 even after all my mods. But I also had a hole in my CAI, and the car felt dogsh1t slow when I went.
JR: Gas will be affected with the higher FD. If you're cruising at say 65mph @2300RPM, with a higher FD you may be around 2600 or so. While not a huge difference, the MPG will be affected.
#71
2005 AM at/navi
Are you gonna go to E-town? I plan on going after my clutch/lw flywheel install with a couple other people.
FYI I trapped 100.82 with CAI/RV6 V1 Jpipe. I'd imagine you could hit 102 with your setup without much trouble.
After my tune I'm hoping to hit 104 but that could be wishful thinking...I've yet to hit 101 even after all my mods. But I also had a hole in my CAI, and the car felt dogsh1t slow when I went.
JR: Gas will be affected with the higher FD. If you're cruising at say 65mph @2300RPM, with a higher FD you may be around 2600 or so. While not a huge difference, the MPG will be affected.
FYI I trapped 100.82 with CAI/RV6 V1 Jpipe. I'd imagine you could hit 102 with your setup without much trouble.
After my tune I'm hoping to hit 104 but that could be wishful thinking...I've yet to hit 101 even after all my mods. But I also had a hole in my CAI, and the car felt dogsh1t slow when I went.
JR: Gas will be affected with the higher FD. If you're cruising at say 65mph @2300RPM, with a higher FD you may be around 2600 or so. While not a huge difference, the MPG will be affected.
#72
Burning Brakes
i read some things about some guys converting over to a 3.9 but then that means i will waste more gas right? and right now that is my DD to work and school. but maybe if i do as u say and simply swap over to a 3.69 ill be ok.
and about the intake, i do have my stock system but i also love the way the cai sounds..lol... u think im losing a lot of power?
and about the intake, i do have my stock system but i also love the way the cai sounds..lol... u think im losing a lot of power?
I went from a 3.34 to a 3.54 which isn't a huge jump. However, I have a set of drag radials that are 23.5" tall or about 2.8" shorter than the OEM tires. That gives my car an effective ratio of around a 3.80. By using shorter tires at the strip, I get a harder launch, but I get good driveability and mpg during daily driving. I have yet to test my 3.54 or DRs at the strip. My gear swap resulted in a drop of about 1mpg on highway, but no effect around town. My rpms in 5th at 80mph is right around 3,000rpms. You shouldn't be turning 4000rpms in 6th at 80mph with a 3.9 gear. It should be more like 3400rpms or so.
Also remember that too much gearing is a bad thing as well.
#73
Suzuka Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Age: 82
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Just a thought, but I am not sure why so many people are spending so much money for such marginal gains. Why not just take the money & swap for a faster base car?
#74
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#75
All motor
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
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jrleclerc88 (04-16-2013)
#76
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
If I had a 6MT Z, I'd probably be looking at the 3.9 swap especially if I had a Revup or HR motor. The problem is it's expensive because you have to drop the pumpkin, pull out the ring and pinion, put in the new one, and do lots of measuring shimming. With the 3.69 gear, you simply drop out the old pumpkin and swap in the new one. All that's involved is disconnecting the 12mm/14mm bolts from the halfshafts and driveshaft and three bolts/nuts securing the 70lb pumpkin to the chassis. You can find 3.69 VLSD pumpkins for $300-500 and can be done in your driveway or by a shop in about 1.5 hours. A true gear swap will set you back $1500+.
I went from a 3.34 to a 3.54 which isn't a huge jump. However, I have a set of drag radials that are 23.5" tall or about 2.8" shorter than the OEM tires. That gives my car an effective ratio of around a 3.80. By using shorter tires at the strip, I get a harder launch, but I get good driveability and mpg during daily driving. I have yet to test my 3.54 or DRs at the strip. My gear swap resulted in a drop of about 1mpg on highway, but no effect around town. My rpms in 5th at 80mph is right around 3,000rpms. You shouldn't be turning 4000rpms in 6th at 80mph with a 3.9 gear. It should be more like 3400rpms or so.
Also remember that too much gearing is a bad thing as well.
I went from a 3.34 to a 3.54 which isn't a huge jump. However, I have a set of drag radials that are 23.5" tall or about 2.8" shorter than the OEM tires. That gives my car an effective ratio of around a 3.80. By using shorter tires at the strip, I get a harder launch, but I get good driveability and mpg during daily driving. I have yet to test my 3.54 or DRs at the strip. My gear swap resulted in a drop of about 1mpg on highway, but no effect around town. My rpms in 5th at 80mph is right around 3,000rpms. You shouldn't be turning 4000rpms in 6th at 80mph with a 3.9 gear. It should be more like 3400rpms or so.
Also remember that too much gearing is a bad thing as well.
Because not everyone can outlay more $$ for the initial investment. When you think about it, if you put the amount you spend on mods and put it towards another car, you most certainly could have a faster car. But at the same time, you aren't putting that chunk of money down at once, you are spreading it out over time. Maybe someone can't afford the extra $150 a month, but can afford to mod their current car instead. It really depends.
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
Initially I wasn't going to do anything to my car, but then I found this place and started modding. I actually had been planning to get rid of the TL next spring and buy a 335, but now I've decided to be smart and hang on to it for a few more years. This car has been too good to me to let go yet; in fact, in a few weeks this will be the longest I've kept any vehicle, aside from bikes.
#77
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Are you gonna go to E-town? I plan on going after my clutch/lw flywheel install with a couple other people.
FYI I trapped 100.82 with CAI/RV6 V1 Jpipe. I'd imagine you could hit 102 with your setup without much trouble.
After my tune I'm hoping to hit 104 but that could be wishful thinking...I've yet to hit 101 even after all my mods. But I also had a hole in my CAI, and the car felt dogsh1t slow when I went.
JR: Gas will be affected with the higher FD. If you're cruising at say 65mph @2300RPM, with a higher FD you may be around 2600 or so. While not a huge difference, the MPG will be affected.
FYI I trapped 100.82 with CAI/RV6 V1 Jpipe. I'd imagine you could hit 102 with your setup without much trouble.
After my tune I'm hoping to hit 104 but that could be wishful thinking...I've yet to hit 101 even after all my mods. But I also had a hole in my CAI, and the car felt dogsh1t slow when I went.
JR: Gas will be affected with the higher FD. If you're cruising at say 65mph @2300RPM, with a higher FD you may be around 2600 or so. While not a huge difference, the MPG will be affected.
#78
2005 AM at/navi
If I had a 6MT Z, I'd probably be looking at the 3.9 swap especially if I had a Revup or HR motor. The problem is it's expensive because you have to drop the pumpkin, pull out the ring and pinion, put in the new one, and do lots of measuring shimming. With the 3.69 gear, you simply drop out the old pumpkin and swap in the new one. All that's involved is disconnecting the 12mm/14mm bolts from the halfshafts and driveshaft and three bolts/nuts securing the 70lb pumpkin to the chassis. You can find 3.69 VLSD pumpkins for $300-500 and can be done in your driveway or by a shop in about 1.5 hours. A true gear swap will set you back $1500+.
I went from a 3.34 to a 3.54 which isn't a huge jump. However, I have a set of drag radials that are 23.5" tall or about 2.8" shorter than the OEM tires. That gives my car an effective ratio of around a 3.80. By using shorter tires at the strip, I get a harder launch, but I get good driveability and mpg during daily driving. I have yet to test my 3.54 or DRs at the strip. My gear swap resulted in a drop of about 1mpg on highway, but no effect around town. My rpms in 5th at 80mph is right around 3,000rpms. You shouldn't be turning 4000rpms in 6th at 80mph with a 3.9 gear. It should be more like 3400rpms or so.
Also remember that too much gearing is a bad thing as well.
I went from a 3.34 to a 3.54 which isn't a huge jump. However, I have a set of drag radials that are 23.5" tall or about 2.8" shorter than the OEM tires. That gives my car an effective ratio of around a 3.80. By using shorter tires at the strip, I get a harder launch, but I get good driveability and mpg during daily driving. I have yet to test my 3.54 or DRs at the strip. My gear swap resulted in a drop of about 1mpg on highway, but no effect around town. My rpms in 5th at 80mph is right around 3,000rpms. You shouldn't be turning 4000rpms in 6th at 80mph with a 3.9 gear. It should be more like 3400rpms or so.
Also remember that too much gearing is a bad thing as well.
im a salesman at america's tire/discount tire so i can get DRs for a very good price which ones do you suggest for my stock 17's?
Because not everyone can outlay more $$ for the initial investment. When you think about it, if you put the amount you spend on mods and put it towards another car, you most certainly could have a faster car. But at the same time, you aren't putting that chunk of money down at once, you are spreading it out over time. Maybe someone can't afford the extra $150 a month, but can afford to mod their current car instead. It really depends.
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
lol... this is coming from a dude that has a 2011 335i and a 2010 x3 and other cars. not hating in anyway man, but come on its obvious we all buy what we can comfortably afford and modd that, yeah maybe i could buy a new nissan gtr if i really wanted to but i would like to mod it but i would only have money for the car and nothing for mods. if that were the case we would all stop modding cars and drive a fast stock car, and at least to me that would suck, i love to mod my cars even if it is little by little, i cant stand a stock car...
#79
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
they have N/A 2nd Gens faster than 13.9 and 102...
just b/c you have SOME knowledge on the 15-20 people on this site that actually heavily modify their TLs, i wouldnt pop off saying the above..
just b/c you have SOME knowledge on the 15-20 people on this site that actually heavily modify their TLs, i wouldnt pop off saying the above..
Last edited by Rockstar21; 08-11-2011 at 07:19 AM.
#80
Senior Moderator
Because not everyone can outlay more $$ for the initial investment. When you think about it, if you put the amount you spend on mods and put it towards another car, you most certainly could have a faster car. But at the same time, you aren't putting that chunk of money down at once, you are spreading it out over time. Maybe someone can't afford the extra $150 a month, but can afford to mod their current car instead. It really depends.
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
Some people have had their cars for over 5 years I'm sure and don't want a new car. Some get attached to their current car. Some can't make a decision as to what their next car is. It's a choice. You have what you have and you try to make the best of it.
Well stated post.