FTT*9266

Hi AZ people!

I replaced racingbreak front break rotor with hawk HPS set up

in last october. and then i have been out my town two weeks

between third week of december to the first week of jan. During that

time, my friend said there were a little bit snow falling.

Since i came back to my town, my car has been expriencing vibrations when

i'm breaking in every speeds. Especially in low speed about 5-2mph, I could feel

the break pedal is slightly moving up and downwards little bit matching with the

warped rotor surface.

I don't understand that why the RB stuff dosen't last longer than the stock

rotors. In the same situation, the stock rotor were lasts more than a year.

Any comments?

chill_dog

Did you follow the bed-in procedure when you installed them?

TeknoKing

#1 brake pads, you brake to stop...

I've ran Hawks before, if the break-in procedure (as mentiond above) was not followed your rotors were not cured for the pads, and in result, could be warped...BUT, I just think your pads are uneven, and with time and braking will smooth out....I liked EBC pads betters....Hawks last longer but they are much rougher on the rotors.

Also, you keep on saying they are a RACING brake pads, racing brake pads are not used for street as you MUST warm them up (glowing red) to provide any braking power. So I'm assuming you are referring to street/sport performance pads.

Good Luck!

PS Are you running OEM rotors?????

LukeaTron

He's running Racing Brake (the company) rotors with Hawk pads. Admittedly it took me two readings to figure this out for sure since the post is written so poorly.

FTT, I agree it sounds like an issue with pad bed in. You've probably built up an uneven coating of pad material on the rotor. You can redo the bed in procedure at any time. Hawk has a very detailed description of the process on their website. Basically you do a series of 45 down to 10 mph brakes with increased pressure each time through. You're looking to evenly heat the rotors and pads so that you end up with a uniform coating of pad material on the rotor.

It's unlikely that you've warped the rotors that quickly unless you drive like a mad man.

FTT*9266

i did followed bed in procedures after installed.
RB,Racing Break, is one of the company name.
I'm running now RB rotor with Hawk HPS pads.
and RB rotor probably warped.
sorry for confusing about this.

01tl4tl

Its really really tough to warp a RacingBrake (brand) rotor!!!
I have them on my 01 and I am a licensed race driver, and escaped mental patient.
The Hawk pads on RB rotors needs hardcore bedding like you would not believe.
Well past what even Hawk says to do- thiose are general public directions for normal rotors.
Its the mettalurgy of the rotor thats at issue, and what it takes to get the pads to bite solid.
You must do several bedding sessions- if anyone drove the car with a light foot on the brakes recently- the pads easily glaze- remove by rebedding the pads.

Here is good tech info that will fix you up- use Heeltoes bedding procedure- it was written just for the rotors and pads he sells
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1186131097
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Learn to use the brakes to reduce speed- not slowly drag the car to a stop.
It's also possible you have rear rotor issues or caliper- master cyliner wear problem.
My car had all bad worn out brake parts/hydraulics from never getting brake fluid change- but now she stops so well- I had to get 235/18" tires to use all the braking abilty.

Note: how to know when your RB rotors are properly broken in. They will have a purple tint to the face of the rotor- fairly even. If you see blue tint- you are getting there- just a few more sessions and they will be all set. Blue on normal rotrs would be death warning, but not these- technology man- its all the rage~

Just read a 2007 autoshop repair tips book today= regarding TL brake shake in wheel or pedal. Acura of course, thinks its the driver, but says uneven pressure on the rotor could wear it funny- so measure the thickness, then do an on car brake lathe - this only works on standard- non slotted- rotors. If that doesnt fix it- remove and brake lathe the rears!

Unless someone has take a dial indicator to the RB rotor and found actual in and out warpage of the surface, you have pad glaze or another problem.
In test cases by HeelToe- the rotors stood up to 3 sets of pads, 15 k per pad set driving in L.A. traffic, and the rotors were still perfect.

I highly recommend the new RB made- ET300 pads that go with the RB rotors- matched design, works better than the HPS, quiet- low dust- they are the Stopping Masters IMO

ChemicalLew

01tl4tl - Sounds like you're a resident brake expert... I did my first HPDE event last July and loved it. I'm looking forward to going back this 7/4 (Putnam Park, Bluegrass Bimmers event).
Last year, I was driving my 06 TL 6spd at the event. Foolishly, I disregarded the advice to change my brake fluid within 3 months of going. "Hell, this is a brand new car! Why should I change the fluid?!?"
I found out after the third 1/2-hour session - the one where I started using my brakes like the instructor wanted me too. After about 8 laps, I started noticing that I was losing stopping power. By the time I pulled off the track I was putting the pedal to the floor and hardly slowing down (fortunately, I was nearly stopped already). We did a quick fluid change to racing blue (I think) and the stopping power was restored, but I definately learned something that day.

I traded the 06 for an 07 this weekend, and like I said above I'm planning to head back to the track in July. I'd also like to get to Mid-Ohio this year... Anyway, do you know how well I can expect the brakes on this model to perform. I'll definately have the car inspected and the fluid changed before going, but should I also consider replacing the rotors and/or pads?

This is my daily driver, and I have no intention of turning it into a race car. However, I would not mind swapping the rotors and/or pads out before/ after the event, but I'd rather not if the stock pads will work. I'm also considering buying a set of wheels from a buddy with an old Legend for my "track" tires so I might have the wheels off anyway.

What's your recommendation? Buy a set of ET300 pads & RB rotors or go with what got me there? Thanks -

Bearcat94

My Guess:

Stock, the braking on the TL-S will be similar to your '06 6MT. Basically the same brakes.

Better performance that you can drive on the street:

- Upgrade Fluid (high temp);
- Slotted Rotors (front for sure; F & R for a balanced look);
- SS brake lines;
- Could upgrade pads, but I am guessing that overall the OE pads are nearly as good (stopping-wise) as just about any daily use pad out there AND they have known daily driver characteristics. Probably should replace for the HPDE if less than 50%.

SodaLuvr

Did you check the rotor runout when you installed the rotors?

Per the Honda FSM, if there's still excessive runout with new rotors, the new rotors should be resurfaced using an on-car-lathe to ensure to eliminate the runout. Either that or use runout correction shims. (My opinion only)

01tl4tl

Chemical Lew
Is the new car also a 6 speed? That cuts down the choices of brake pads available.
RB doesnt have any for you, and their rotor for the 6speed is a pricey 2 piece unit.
Rotora makes a slotted 1 piece rotor. Hawk has HPS or (track use) Blue pads for them too.
For non brembo cars- I would run RB's ET500 at the track, and drive home on them, then change back to my 300 street pads once home. You can use the 500 all the time, but my wife drives the car- so I keep the "mainly street use pads" on it for her.
the designations mean 300= 30 percent track day style driving/ 70% normal human style
500 series is 50/50
pure race cars run a 900 series~

Brake fluid- Synthetic fluid DOT4 changed 1 day before the event, and for sure right after every track day.
I carry the tools to do a quick bleed between sessions if needed.
Many hardcore track dayers swear by Motul Blue brake fluid- and run it all the time.

01tl4tl

duh- I just saw the title ChemLoe- you have S type
so its got the easy swap out pads-- brembo calipers- quick brake pad change is built into their racing heritage.
2 pins hold the pads in- yank em out in drop in the new ones. done!
Get some good pads for track day, and expect the OE rotors to get warped soon,
put the rotora rotors on it when you need to replace
There are several greeat books and videos on driving in competition- the tips of being smooth are what make you fast and your instructor happy! Practice all the finer points of brake turn in apex accellerate from now until track day, and you will see the improvemnt in yourself immedialty.
Note- if the brake pedal gets weak on track , give it a quick pump then get on the brakes again.

ChemicalLew

Outstanding! Thanks for the advice 01tl4tl. I'll check out the sponsors for prices. I did get a Type-S 6 speed, although I didn't mention the new transmission in my post.

BTW- I have a couple of favorite curves on my way to work that I practice on - mostly 90° turns onto on-ramps. LOTS of fun!