Crissy78

Hello, I'm new here. I just got my 2007 TL last Tuesday. I just wondered if anyone was offered an interior/exterior treatment program that is applied at the time of vehicle purchase. This "system" was presented with a five year guarantee, stating that if drinks were spilled, etc, it would protect the interior and would also guarantee the exterior finish further than the factory waranty.

.I was told it was $500 but they would sell it to me at $350 cash. I have the WDP with Taupe leather. I'm now concerned of stains on this light interior and mainly because of my child. Does anyone out there know if these "autoguard" things as they refer to them, are worth the money or should I just save my $350

triton3k

I never even heard of this. I'd like to know as well.

jvette

save your money. Just scotch guard the interior and wax the exterior with a good wax each year. There is a wonderful leather care called Zaino Leather Care that will take care of the seats.

Dreadedz

I have an 06 TL And I am having this done this week. I am having the paint sealant, Leather Sealant, Undercoating and sound deadener and the 3M masking/Bra done. The Acura dealership here calls it the "Resist All Package". After the second trip in our car, and two rock chips later, I finally convinced my self this was the way to go!

chill_dog

They threw this in when I bought my car (well, it was probably built into the price somewhere). I have WDP/Quartz. After three years, my interior is kind of dingy (I do drive with the windows down a lot), I have some marks on the leather in a few spots, and the floor mats (particularly driver side) are . Just before the 5-year term is up, I'll get new floor mats and the leather cleaned/replaced...not bad, in my opinion. Keep in mind, though, this doesn't cover butt prints on the seats. And I fail to see what the exterior piece does...another layer between the clear coat and wax, maybe?

Aren't you leasing your car? If so, I wouldn't do this.

Desert_TL

Dude seriously, those interior/exterior protection packages they try to pop on you in the finance office are the biggest ripoff in history. I know, because I paid nearly $1000 for the protection package on my TL.

What I should have done was VERY carefully read the service contract that came with the protection plan before signing. But, you know, while sitting in the finance office, you're already super excited to be getting a new car and you're not really thinking straight. I was kind of thinking "well, I'm already spending $35k, what's another $1k for an interior/exterior warranty".

But I don't know how it is for you, but for me, the interior and exterior protection only applies IF THE STAIN REMAINS AFTER YOU HAVE IT PROFESSIONALLY CLEANED. Yes, that's right, you have to have it professionally cleaned and if the stain still doesn't come out, the professionals have to sign off that the stain is permanent before the warranty company will replace the stained part. I bet it would take 6 months, a hundred phone calls, and a thousand documents sent back and forth with the company before you got any replacement parts. Besides, strictly speaking, what stain WOULDN'T come out with professional cleaning? It's all pretty useless, really. I would pass. Signing up for this stupid interior/exterior protection package was the biggest mistake of my life.

Just scotch-guard the interior yourself for 10 bucks and for the same price as the protection package costs (or less), you can have rockblockers installed on all of the vulnerable exterior surfaces which is REAL protection, not the bullsh*t the warranty company will spray on.

JAGMAN

That's what happened with me to Desert _ TL. Except I received a three tier package that they put the film on the front end for one, two they give you the resist all, and three is ding protection. I walked out of the finance office without the brochures and coverage. Now it seems nobody at the dealership wants to give it to me. I went back in there after I spotted a small paint chip on the rear bumper. now it's like pulling teeth to see if it's covered! Does anyone have this?

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

dat time machine.

erdoc48

I also agree it's an expensive add on and not worth the cash. 'Sealants' are the oldest ripoff in the car sales business.

Edit: I wasn't paying attention when I realized the thread was resurrected from 2007. I have to read more carefully.

poormans_tl69

its a ripoff dont get it. you can buy your own products and do the protection yourself

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

Be very careful where you go to get your clear bra installed if any of you choose to do that.

I bought my TL it used to have a clear bra but the seller removed it right before I purchasd it.

Turns out the previous owner had taken it to a shop who had done it right when he bought it. They had literally put clear film over the car and cut it ON the car with a razor blade. It left deep scratches that he didn't know about until the film was removed 4 years later. After that long there isn't much you can do as far as recourse at this point.

In the end I had the hood and bumper repainted because of those deep scratches. Bs.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

I have heard of this happening as well. It blows my mind that a shop would actually have the low life employees that would actually do that. If a shop attempted to do that kind of work on a brand new car of mine I would try and sue there asses for as much as I could. Thats just completely careless, lazy, and bullshit work. Yet another perfect example of why I try to avoid any other person touching my car if at all possible.

Sweep

If you're trying to clean and treat the interior....the products i recommend are Lexol for all the leather (it's what they use on porches)...they make a cleaner and a conditioner......On the dash you may want to use Aerospace 303 (its a product that is usually sold at boat repair shops and has the least amount of alcohol in it so it won't crack your dash)....

Sweep

Also on the exterior i was told to use Meguirs Soap...it doesn't have any detergents that will mess with your wax..

dannyz

Don't use an oil based cleaner (like Lexol) or conditioner on automobile leather (unless you have Ferrari leather). You must use a water based product because the surface of the leather is covered with a synthetic coating. There are good water-based cleaners our there--I recommend :Leather Master" products:

Finish leather Cleaning / Care

CliffNotes® Version - Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation

An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.

Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.

The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface

Absorbency rate -Low

(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas

(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, this should be done on a regular basis.

(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.

Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.

Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B protection (especially in a convertible)

(d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.

The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation.

Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself