badboy

I am at 5000 miles and my mid shows 40 percent oil life.

Is this normail oil wear?

I was under the impression that todays car can go 10K without an oil change.

I know audi recommends 10K oil changes, and did I mention they are free, all of them.

I also heard from a rsx owner that they change oil ever 10K as well.

any thoughts?

thanks

rets

It seems common in where you live, maybe it's a little better than many of others living near you. I guess you hit highway a lot.

Well, MID oil life would be varied by areas and driving habits. In NYC, traffic and bumpy stop & go, MID oil life cycle could be 3k-5k.

My friends hit 8k-9k in CA.

Road Rage

My reviews of countles UOA's indicate that mineral-oils are pretty much gone at 10K, but generally have life at 7500. As already posted, the MiD does a pretty good job of sorting it out. I plan to go synoil, and change when the MiD says. But I also regularly get my oil analyzed so I know for sure I am not stretching its performance.

If you want simplicity, use Motorcraft 5w20 synblend, and change when the MiD says - you will never have a concern that you waited too long.

alvon

I was not comfortable to wait for the MID to go down to 0% for the first oil change. So I changed the oil and filter out at 4300 miles (just turned 30%), use Motorcraft 5w20, and a bottle of MLEP (following RR's comment on it) for the additional Moly and to continue the break in.

Road Rage

Son of Road Rage. Excellent choices - you go to the head of the class!

alvon

Thank you for your information regarding oil. I learned a great deal from reading your posts !!

JetJock

I'm thinking of changine my oil at 4000 miles (40%) and going with synthetic. Do you really need to add the moly additive with 4000+ miles? I would think the engine would be broken in by now and don't want to do anything stupid. I'd wait longer but the car is 7 months old and only has 3800 miles so I'm getting a little concerned about the oil sitting that long with low miles on the OD. I'm going to use RedLine since I have plenty left over from my 2002 TLS and don't want to let the oil go to waste. I switched to synthetic with the TLS at 2000 miles with no problems, but then again I never kept the car long enough to enjoy the benefit of synthetic oil....the new owner will find out if it was worth the effort in the long run. I liked the way the engine "felt" with synthetic but otherwise I saw no difference myself.

Road Rage

I think 4000 is enough miles. I think the "feel" is placebo factor. There is not thast much difference at normal operating temps in terms of friction reduction to be felt.

alvon

My understanding is that RedLine has higher Moly content, compare to Motorcraft, so maybe additional Moly is not needed with RedLine.

Nodoze2004

I would say that this is pretty good compared to my 6MT. I am at 2200 miles and my mid already reads 40%. Top that with the fact that I have NEVER gotten over 17MPG (Combined city/hwy) and I am starting to think this thing was designed by Opec to freebase fossil fuels!!

Road Rage

Both those numbers indicate that you are the master of your own destiny, and contribute to OPEC willingly. You run the car hard, obviously.

By the way - how much of our imported oil do you think we get from the Middle East, compared to Venezuela, Mexico, Canada, Nigeria, etc? It is much less than 40% - so the "Blood for Oil" always was and will be junk science.

hopsterguy

Hey Road Rage... just wanted to thank you for your many recommendations on the Motorcraft synblend... found that viscosity at Wal Mart of all places.. and it was dirt cheap! Crazy that an oil so cheap performs like you say it does... bought a case

Thanks...

Steve

ravingstylez

i think im at 3700 and my oil is at 10 i got an appt on the 19th cant wait cuz i have bunchof lil problems

Road Rage

Welcome! Increasingly, oil price seems unrelated to quality. LE is under $5. The Motorcraft synblend i can get for under $1.80!!! Unbelievable! I keep telling you guys, the gap between the true synoils (Group IV/V) and the hydrocraked oils (Group III) is narrow. LE is Group II and Group IV, and outperforms overall anything else I have seen in the areas of most importance to me.

And in the 10w30 vis, Motorcraft and Havoline (ChevronSupreme) are outstanding and cheap.
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/index....owtopic=169852

cvajs

folks, i think the "break-in" has many confused. at 4300 miles your engine is way past break-in.

we can argue this, but there's load of data on the net to explain what happens when a engine actually breaks-in.

pettydw

If you follow autonews, you'll note more and more manufacturers under investigation for oil sludge problems due to extended oil change intervals. More than 7500 miles per change is bad economics (for the consumer) in the long run. Also, folks who balk at the cost difference in synthetic oils, yet are paying more than this per day on insurance, car payments, gas, etc. should think twice if they plan to keep their cars for a long time.

Road Rage

The only one I know of is Toyota, and that was because they designed the oil gallies badly. Mercedes had a problem, because they used oil algorithms designed for full synoils on rot-gut mineral oils. It is apples and oranges. Cheap anything will lead to problems, but the generalization that the best minoils cannot last 7500 is simply wrong. Is Acura under "investigation"?

I suggest you give this a read:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/index....owtopic=187689

You will see that a number of highly touted oils cannot pass the TFOUT test, which is the best bench test for oxidation resistance, which is a KPI for longevity and freedom from sludge. What is of particular interest is that the LE oils, which are synblends of Group IV and Group II base stocks have the highest oxidation resistance - aqn indicator of the unique properties of their additive package. There is much more to a top oil than its name or whether it is synoil or not. Note that Pennzoil's minoil outperforms its synblend.