UNC_Tl

/Hey,

I am a proud owner of a 2005 Tl 6MT. Its an awesome car and having done just about 73k miles, it is in pristine condition. The previous owner kept it garaged for about 7 months and the vehicle was hardly driven. However, I had it inspected by the Honda dealer before going for the purchase and it seemed fine to him.
Its been two days since I got it and I am considering replacing the oil and oil filter. I have gone through the forums and I think that the best bet would be Mobil 1 5W/20 Engine Oil and M1-104 Oil Filter.
Do you guys have any suggestion on the same? I will be more than happy to consider other alternatives. Also, should there be anything else that I should be replacing at the moment. I have read some very informative posts and would really appreciate inputs.

Cheers

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

Did you receive all the maintenance records from the previous owner? If you havent Id go ahead and replace all of the fluids. Since youre a 6-speed Id also check out the GM synchro fluid thread and see if youd like to make the switch. Personally I just Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 with either a RP or K&N filter. Also there are tons of oil thread out there that you can look up and choose whatever you like. Welcome to the forum!

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Welcome UNC-enjoy your new ride.

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

mobil 5W30 for me

CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

Welcome and congrats!

UNC_Tl

Thanks guys for your kind remarks.

lilsid112 - I did not receive any maintenance manuals and hence will be replacing the oils (including transmission). Based on the replies here and the forums that I have gone through, I will use Mobil SW30 and Mobil MI -110.

The last car I drove back home was a 67 HP diesel (turbo) that went 0-60 in about 20 seconds if you shifted quick So, I am absolutelyyyy loving this car. It just pulls and pulls and pulls.

One more thing. I only got one key and the prices quoted by dealers are outrageous. Found this nice site going by "ikeyless" that provides a basic key for about 20 bucks (ofcourse I will have to get it filed by a professional, but still the price looks awesome). Has anyone had any experience with this online retailer. The reviews have been mixed for it.

Thanks.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

m1-104 =s2k filter = bigger filter.

I use m1-104!!!!

ez12a

If you're going to be replacing fluids also check out the condition of the coolant and brake fluid, the latter of which is often overlooked. Grats on the purchase.

UNC_Tl

Copy that Houston. Going to make sure I replace pretty much all of them - coolant, transmission, oil, brake etc.

If you have any suggestions about a spare key, that would be great too. Cheers

UNC_Tl

I am facing a fresh issue with my car. Today I had to slam my brakes real hard and to my surprise the front tires locked. They simply jammed which should not have been the case if the ABS was working correctly. My friend's TSX stops perfect in a straight line without any locking of brakes. The tires are not in mint condition and I will have to get the rear ones replaced in a couple of months. Still, my understanding is that ABS works regardless of the tires. It detects tire lock and distributes pressure to ensure that they do not jam.

Do you think it is an ABS issue? Could it be because of the tires. I am going to have it inspected by a mechanic but still any information would be highly appreciated. I have read other forums on this website but I am not completely satisfied.

Thanks

cinobyte

I dont think tires should affect the abs function. brake pads and brake fluid inspection are first thing i would look at. You should have felt a very fast pulsating affect if abs kicked in. i "think" most cars have some type of diagnostics routine it runs on the abs system when the car is started.

UNC_Tl

You are right. I should feel the feathering effect when the ABS takes over but I did not feel any such thing and the front tires simply locked. I checked the manual. It says that the vehicle does check for ABS function at start and yet that happened. Today I tried it at a parking place at about 25 MPH and the same thing happened. Lets see what the mechanic says.

truonghthe

welcome to the site, you can register your color here https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/tl-owners-please-chime-855960/ thnx.

UNC_Tl

Registered the color and my car.

I am going to the mechanic yet again today. There is a small clicking sound coming from the rear side everytime I accelerate. Basically whenever the momentum changes, you can hear it. Went through the thread on the same and hopefully it should be the axle nut. That thread has not been active for approx 5 months now and hence, I am posting it here too. Will keep you updated with what the mechanic says.
Cheers

ez12a

good luck. Could be as simple as something stuck in the tire tapping on the road surface.

LoveMyTL-S

Congrats and welcome to AZ. Register it at www.myacura.com and store your Navi and Radio codes there for safe keeping. If you’re in Canada then go here:
https://www.myacura.acura.ca/myAcura...ToLoginPage.do

UNC_Tl

thanks for the web link LoveMyTL-S. I still haven't got my codes. I like the way engine revs so smooth that haven't played much music.
Btw I got the car checked for the clicking noise. Apparently an axle but had come loose. Apparently this is a pretty common problem with TLs. At least that is what I thought after reading the forum on it. Just in case anyone else faces it, do keep the axle nut in mind. The cause of tires locking up has not been found as of now. So I can just hope like hell that the brembo brakes do their job when time comes.
Cheers

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^tires.

UNC_Tl

Hey. I saw a lot of posts regarding the third gear issue on 3rd generation TLs. I havea 2005 TL and there is always this grinding feeling whenever I shift into the third and even into fourth. There was a TSB issued in April 2008 on the same.
I called up the dealer and they said that its going to be 159 as diagnostic fee and the rest would depend on the costs. I know it’s been seven years for this car and there is no warranty but I just purchased this car couple of weeks back. I can use the GM Synchro FM fluid but that won’t fix the true problem. I am new to U.S. and would really appreciate some feedbacks on how I can best resolve the issue with the dealers.
a. Can I maybe convince them to help me out with some goodwill on the total cost. Is that even a possibility.
b. Should I go to a local trusted mechanic and get the 3rd gear synchronizer or 3-4 shift sleeve replaced.
c. Should I just continue on with it using the GM Synchro FM fluid and hope that the transmission doesn’t give up on me anytime soon. (if so the threads on the same are atleast a year old. Hence, any new suggestions on where I can get the fluid from. If not, I will just use the link from older posts.
Any suggestions from someone who faced similar problem out of warranty would be great.

ez12a

You can still get the GM fluid from most GM dealers. It may be re-branded as a AC Delco part, but it still is the same stuff.

There is a part # in the other thread you posted in. The dealer can look that up and if it has been superseded (which i believe it has), they'll give you AC Delco instead. same thing. You need to buy 3 quarts if you're just doing a drain and fill.

It'll be hard to get good will (free) fix because you dont have a relationship with the dealer, and it's not a life threatening issue (recall). The 6MT is a little notchy in these cars especially when cold. the fluid will help with that but not completely eliminate it. It's just the nature of our transmissions.

UNC_Tl

Thanks a ton. I just ordered 3 Quarts of AC Delco and will be changing it soon. You are right about not having a relationship with the dealer. I read about it somewhere else too so I am not counting on it anymore.

My only concern is that I don't want the tranny to hang up on me one day. If the fluid temporarily solves or reduces the grinding effect, should I still consider replacing the defective parts at the dealership in the future or is it ok (safe) to drive the car as it is. I don't want it to turn into a major transmission problem and then having to shelve $$$ to get it fixed. I am a student and am on a relatively tight budget.

Thanks