debrujr

This is not another thread debating what brand or what weight of oil so please put the flame throwers away. I purchased my 07 TL-S last week and am performing all of it's 60K maintenance this weekend and I cannot find anywhere on the car that states it's current oil. I am debating on using a blend for a few cycles then moving full synthetic. Sound logical? Any flaws? Cheers.

BradE

You don't need to use a blend. If you want to go synthetic, just go ahead and do that. It's not going to hurt anything.

debrujr

Brad,

Thank you for the immediate response. I was under the impression that there were concerns with filling an engine with synthetic that had always been standard without a flush. No surprise that my information is misconstrued and dated.

Pat04TL

Deb, do whatever helps you sleep at night. As to oil, I just don't think it matters anymore. I always use good ol' non-synthetic and sleep very well. If anything, these days the oil filter can be the limiting factor. Congrats on getting a fine car!!

EvoToTL

iTrader: (6)

congrats on the car! either 5w-30 or 10w-30 will good. i would go out 10w30 since u have some miles on your car for more protection.

ABP_04TL

iTrader: (2)

Mobil1, or Amsoil, call it a day

TL-S121

Castrol Syntec 5W30

debrujr

I went with Mobil 1 5W-30 and am happy with the decision. My biggest concern was the reaction between differing oils mixing. I know standard to standard is fine but I seem to remember the thought that mixing standard and synthetic was a no no. By the looks of the cheap filter, there was standard in it. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with standard, I just wanted to do as much as I can to preserve the car. I have used standard in all of my vehicles and I am not totally convinced either way but I can't see synthetic being inferior so on the happen chance that it is better, I made a good choice.

01tl4tl

whatever brand name is on sale is fine- 5-30 is best engine protection
the first number is flowability at 32 degrees F, the other number is at operating temp
you can run synth one time- partial next, plain, whatever you want-engine does not care

In the days of old there was the concern of mixing and flushing- not anymore
The one thing you may want to do next time is run seafoam in the oil for 100 miles then change- cleans oil passages so pressure stays good
known issue with vtec sliders clogging! vtec operates on oil pressure changes
seafoam the oil!

with 60 on the car do all the seafoams-gas -intake vac port at TB and oil
wait a week then install new ngk iridium plugs
car will run like brand new

I hate cars

You can mix syn and regular. You can run it on syn for 50,000 and then dino for 50,000 and vice versa. There is no harm whatsoever. The syn not being compatible with dino came from the '70s when synthetics were first being sold.

Stay away from the blends, it's just marketing. You're getting a dino but paying more money.

There is not a bad SM rated oil made today so don't lose sleep over oil.

For ultimate protection, Redline or Motul 5w-30 or Amsoil ACD 10w-30.

All the others, Mobil One, Castrol, Pennzoil Platinum, etc are all fine, mediocre oils and I would shop based on price.

Mobil One 5w-30 specifically got caught not passing the required wear standards so I would steer clear of that weight in that brand.

I hate cars

Just saw you chose Mobil One 5w-30...... Any chance it was the EP version? Either way, I wouldn't drain it out but I wouldn't use it again when the next oil change time comes around.

debrujr

Will do. A friend is an Amsoil dealer so I will hit him up next time.

leedogg

My advice is to listen to I Hate Cars.

LoveMyTL-S

Didn't it say the oil weight on the filler cap?

Majofo

Do you have any details? I just put it in my MDX M1-EP 5w30.. also used a M1 filter but I noticed the filter seems cheaper. I remember the shell being metal before. It feels like plastic now. If anything I'll drain it out a 5k..

I hate cars

The EP is fine, it's the regular M1 that had the issues. I believe this is what Castrol capitalized on in their "8x better" commercials. I think it was something to do with valvetrain wear tests.

They were caught by the API or whomever it is that randomly checks up on them. I stopped looking at it a while back but last I heard they weren't sure if it was all of the 5w-30 or just a few batches but it seemed to be all over the country, not just isolated to one region. You may be able to find something on bitog but anytime you bring up a topic like that it gets locked or deleted. For all I know the problem is solved but with so many other choices out there who wants to take the chance.

What kind of gets me is you're paying for a premium oil that didn't meet the minimum wear standards that every oil no matter how cheap must meet.

I probably should've gone into more detail so I didn't scare anyone but it was getting late.

Majofo

whew.. I was pretty concerned. If I buy M1 it's only EP but it's usually not on the shelf during the sales. I was pretty pissed to realize the filter case wasn't steel though. I tried to find sources indicating mfg change from champ labs but came up nil. I'm glad I stuck with a RP filter for the TL at least.

Izzy-Type-S

iTrader: (1)

The shop I get mine changed at uses Penzoil, I just dont have the time to do it.

Majofo

It takes no more than 30 mins..

leedogg

my local shop does mine for $20 when I supply the oil. It's definitely worth $20 to a) minimize the risk of hurting myself b) keep from getting oil all over you c) dispose of the oil

Majofo

I'd rather ensure:

a) They don't overtorque my drainbolt

b) The filter is applied on a clean surface and not overtightened as well

c) Saved myself an extra 30 mins - 1.5 hrs for other stuff.

d) General peace of mind & ensure the shop isn't substituting what you brought in..


You don't get much oil on you if you do it right, nothing a shop towel won't take care of and you can take your oil & filter almost anywhere for free disposal.

I hate cars

Same here. You can change it quicker yourself including the cleanup. By the time you drive it to the place, fill out the paper work, wait for any cars in front of you, wait for the work to be done, and drive home, it's not likely you're ever going to round trip it in less than 45 minutes.

BradE

I use ramps, if I'm just doing the oil & filter, it doesn't even take 30 minutes. Usually 20 for me, including clean up.

leedogg

i have no ramps or lifts, they're a local family owned business that specializes in honda's/acura's, often, i'm out there chatting with the guy, watching as he's doing whatever work on my car. It's not like i'm taking it to jiffy lube or something.

Majofo

As long as you trust your ride to a dependable guy then it sounds like a good deal.

dgarcia520

hey guys, how often are you changing your oil? I just got my TL in Jan'10, due for oil change soon. Dealer told me when oil life is at 15%. What do you recommend.

I'm used to 3k miles back in the days for old GM cars and was told 3-5K w/ my previous Toyota Solara.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Peace.

Majofo

Following the MID is okay. Oil life at 15% is a good time to change the oil.. If you're running a decent synthetic and filter you can do at least a 7k mile oci and run it past 0%.. but with the blended oil & honda filter from the dealer I wouldn't go more than 4k miles or 15%, whichever comes first.