New Owner of an '07 NBP TL-S
09-26-2013, 04:21 AM
#1
New Owner of an '07 NBP TL-S
Hi all,
Last week-end I picked up an 07 TL-S 6MT NBP. I probably paid more then I should've ($21K), and it has more miles than I wanted (88K), but I'm definitely happy (for now). Unfortunately, there was no maintenance history on the car.
I drove it 230 miles from MA to NYC. There's several things that have come up that maybe some of you guys can help answer or tell me if it's normal:
1) I was expecting the suspension on the Type S to be abit firmer than what it is now. It feels some what floaty at times and I can't tell if it's due to the age of the struts/springs (I'm assuming they have 88K on them). I plan on replacing them, and based on the research I've done, the A-spec strut/spring combo will give me what I'm looking for.
Also, I've noticed while driving over rougher roads, you can hear faint clunking noises from the suspension. After looking it over on a lift, we noticed that the sway bar bushings had some play in them, and ball joints had minimal play. I plan on replacing both. Are there any other suspension bits that are common to cause clunking? Strut mounts?
2) On the drive home, the CE light came on. Only one code came up (P0171 - cylinder 1). For the past several days it's been coming on and off. From the reading I've done, several things can trigger this code to come up (PGM-FI software update, Valve Adjustment, O2s, Vacuum Leak). At times, I can hear a whine while accelerating. I've heard that same type of whine on other vehicles that had vacuum leaks and I'm wondering if one of the metal intake gaskets are leaking?
In the vehicle system information, I saw that a P0171 and P0174 had came up in 2011 andon the carfax it shows that the car was taken to the dealer to have the "Battery/Charging System Checked".
3) My last manual car was a 5spd 93 Ford Taurus SHO. It had a Hi-Comp/Camm'd 3.2L w/ a 9lb Fidanza Flywheel. On upshifts, the RPMs would drop almost instantly.
On the TL, I've noticed that after clutching in, the RPM seems to take forever to drop. From what I've read, this is due to the drive-by wire system. Is this correct?
Overall, for the condition it's in with the mileage it has, I'm pretty happy. The maintenance items that I have planned so far are:
Cabin Air Filter
Airbox Filter
Serpentine Belt
Coolant Flush
Trans Fluid Replacement
Spark Plugs
Timing Belt/Water Pump (at 100K)
A-Spec Strut/Springs
Lower Ball Joints
Sway Bar Bushings / Endlinks
Last week-end I picked up an 07 TL-S 6MT NBP. I probably paid more then I should've ($21K), and it has more miles than I wanted (88K), but I'm definitely happy (for now). Unfortunately, there was no maintenance history on the car.
I drove it 230 miles from MA to NYC. There's several things that have come up that maybe some of you guys can help answer or tell me if it's normal:
1) I was expecting the suspension on the Type S to be abit firmer than what it is now. It feels some what floaty at times and I can't tell if it's due to the age of the struts/springs (I'm assuming they have 88K on them). I plan on replacing them, and based on the research I've done, the A-spec strut/spring combo will give me what I'm looking for.
Also, I've noticed while driving over rougher roads, you can hear faint clunking noises from the suspension. After looking it over on a lift, we noticed that the sway bar bushings had some play in them, and ball joints had minimal play. I plan on replacing both. Are there any other suspension bits that are common to cause clunking? Strut mounts?
2) On the drive home, the CE light came on. Only one code came up (P0171 - cylinder 1). For the past several days it's been coming on and off. From the reading I've done, several things can trigger this code to come up (PGM-FI software update, Valve Adjustment, O2s, Vacuum Leak). At times, I can hear a whine while accelerating. I've heard that same type of whine on other vehicles that had vacuum leaks and I'm wondering if one of the metal intake gaskets are leaking?
In the vehicle system information, I saw that a P0171 and P0174 had came up in 2011 andon the carfax it shows that the car was taken to the dealer to have the "Battery/Charging System Checked".
3) My last manual car was a 5spd 93 Ford Taurus SHO. It had a Hi-Comp/Camm'd 3.2L w/ a 9lb Fidanza Flywheel. On upshifts, the RPMs would drop almost instantly.
On the TL, I've noticed that after clutching in, the RPM seems to take forever to drop. From what I've read, this is due to the drive-by wire system. Is this correct?
Overall, for the condition it's in with the mileage it has, I'm pretty happy. The maintenance items that I have planned so far are:
Cabin Air Filter
Airbox Filter
Serpentine Belt
Coolant Flush
Trans Fluid Replacement
Spark Plugs
Timing Belt/Water Pump (at 100K)
A-Spec Strut/Springs
Lower Ball Joints
Sway Bar Bushings / Endlinks
09-26-2013, 04:54 AM
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
1. the suspension being floaty is hard to say, tl-s is not a true sports car so its going to feel floaty compared to say, a 370z. but it'll feel stiff compared to a camry...so its objective. but the aspec suspension is great. for the front sway bar bushings, its almost necessary to drop the subframe just to swap them out. you might be able to get away with it by bending the bracket though from what I heard. rears will be cake, the bushings and endlinks only take minutes to replace.
how did you determine the ball joints had play? is there clunking that you can hear by moving it? also which ball joint? there are a lot; front has lower ball joint, upper ball joint, outer tie rod ball joint, inner tie rod ball joint, endlink ball joint, etc. the suspension top hats dont really go bad, no wear and tear parts. there are no ball bearing strut mounts since we have a double wishbone suspension.
2. does the car have the intake resonator box removed? these cars(includes similarily the tsx and accord) make a slight squealing sound under light throttle that can be heard with any intake modification. its normal though.
dont forget to add compliance bushings to that list, they do not last over 60k miles, GUARANTEED. I see many of them starting to rip at 40k miles or so. that MAY be the floaty feeling you are feeling but kinda doubt it. either way its good to replace them theres a huge thread here on azine about them.
how did you determine the ball joints had play? is there clunking that you can hear by moving it? also which ball joint? there are a lot; front has lower ball joint, upper ball joint, outer tie rod ball joint, inner tie rod ball joint, endlink ball joint, etc. the suspension top hats dont really go bad, no wear and tear parts. there are no ball bearing strut mounts since we have a double wishbone suspension.
2. does the car have the intake resonator box removed? these cars(includes similarily the tsx and accord) make a slight squealing sound under light throttle that can be heard with any intake modification. its normal though.
dont forget to add compliance bushings to that list, they do not last over 60k miles, GUARANTEED. I see many of them starting to rip at 40k miles or so. that MAY be the floaty feeling you are feeling but kinda doubt it. either way its good to replace them theres a huge thread here on azine about them.
09-26-2013, 06:59 AM
#3
-------Tim-------
Welcome to Azine! 
A lot of members with the MT remove the slave cylinder check valve (someone correct the term if wrong), to make shifting more enjoyable. Plenty of threads on this, here. The garage has tons of info....
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
A lot of members with the MT remove the slave cylinder check valve (someone correct the term if wrong), to make shifting more enjoyable. Plenty of threads on this, here. The garage has tons of info....
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-service-department-aka-garage-questions-answers-check-here-first-553557/
09-26-2013, 07:27 AM
#4
+1 For the aspec suspension. I experienced that same floaty feeling with my 08 base and the aspec suspension compleatly got rid of it. It can be a bit stiff at times, but overall ride quality dosent suffer too much. Well worth it if you decide to upgrade and congrats on the type s.
09-26-2013, 07:53 AM
#5
I think everyone's got you covered here as far as your questions.
Welcome to the club! I too bought an 08 TLS with 100k about 10 months ago and did the same kind of maintenance overhaul (plus timing belt, water pump etc.)
The only thing I would add is to look into some GM Synchromesh friction modified trans fluid. You'll need about 3 quarts. Its the best stuff for our transmissions and it'll feel new after that. Also, check if the TSB was done on the 3rd gear, as well as the recall on the power steering hose.
Good luck!
Edit: come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I too had a P0171 code when I first bought my car. My buddy who works at acura did a software update on it and that fixed it. Basically they update the software to increase the parameters for the CEL to come on (or so I was told), in other words, they make the CEL less sensitive on that particular sensor or whathaveyou.
Welcome to the club! I too bought an 08 TLS with 100k about 10 months ago and did the same kind of maintenance overhaul (plus timing belt, water pump etc.)
The only thing I would add is to look into some GM Synchromesh friction modified trans fluid. You'll need about 3 quarts. Its the best stuff for our transmissions and it'll feel new after that. Also, check if the TSB was done on the 3rd gear, as well as the recall on the power steering hose.
Good luck!
Edit: come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I too had a P0171 code when I first bought my car. My buddy who works at acura did a software update on it and that fixed it. Basically they update the software to increase the parameters for the CEL to come on (or so I was told), in other words, they make the CEL less sensitive on that particular sensor or whathaveyou.
Last edited by quanaman; 09-26-2013 at 07:56 AM.
09-26-2013, 09:39 AM
#6
Racer
Welcome.
If I had $21k, I would purchase this car: '08 Type-S, 38k miles, 1 owner, accident free. The owner told me that he would sell for $20,500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-TL-Type-S-2008-acura-tl-type-s-sedan-4-door-3-5-l-/261289947048?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3cd6182fa8&item=261289947048&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
If I had $21k, I would purchase this car: '08 Type-S, 38k miles, 1 owner, accident free. The owner told me that he would sell for $20,500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-TL-Type-S-2008-acura-tl-type-s-sedan-4-door-3-5-l-/261289947048?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3cd6182fa8&item=261289947048&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
09-26-2013, 04:34 PM
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
^irrelevant post.
there are a lot of posts from new members and sometimes I see that they paid more than they should for their cars, but it doesnt matter since its alrdy purchased, not like dealerships give refunds. you will only make him feel bad about his purchase by doing so. money is just something that comes and goes, so just enjoy the car
there are a lot of posts from new members and sometimes I see that they paid more than they should for their cars, but it doesnt matter since its alrdy purchased, not like dealerships give refunds. you will only make him feel bad about his purchase by doing so. money is just something that comes and goes, so just enjoy the car
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09-26-2013, 07:38 PM
#9
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
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Congrats 24V.
Be sure to join our Type S Social Group from the link below my signature.
Be sure to join our Type S Social Group from the link below my signature.
09-26-2013, 08:21 PM
#10
Nice congrats. Did you end up with that one form Clark? The suspension sounds and feel you describe is the exact same I get on my 07 with 78k. I think it's almost normal operation. My wife's tsx with 70k feels the exact same and has since we got it with 40k
09-27-2013, 03:53 AM
#11
1. the suspension being floaty is hard to say, tl-s is not a true sports car so its going to feel floaty compared to say, a 370z. but it'll feel stiff compared to a camry...so its objective. but the aspec suspension is great. for the front sway bar bushings, its almost necessary to drop the subframe just to swap them out. you might be able to get away with it by bending the bracket though from what I heard. rears will be cake, the bushings and endlinks only take minutes to replace.
how did you determine the ball joints had play? is there clunking that you can hear by moving it? also which ball joint? there are a lot; front has lower ball joint, upper ball joint, outer tie rod ball joint, inner tie rod ball joint, endlink ball joint, etc. the suspension top hats dont really go bad, no wear and tear parts. there are no ball bearing strut mounts since we have a double wishbone suspension.
2. does the car have the intake resonator box removed? these cars(includes similarily the tsx and accord) make a slight squealing sound under light throttle that can be heard with any intake modification. its normal though.
dont forget to add compliance bushings to that list, they do not last over 60k miles, GUARANTEED. I see many of them starting to rip at 40k miles or so. that MAY be the floaty feeling you are feeling but kinda doubt it. either way its good to replace them theres a huge thread here on azine about them.
how did you determine the ball joints had play? is there clunking that you can hear by moving it? also which ball joint? there are a lot; front has lower ball joint, upper ball joint, outer tie rod ball joint, inner tie rod ball joint, endlink ball joint, etc. the suspension top hats dont really go bad, no wear and tear parts. there are no ball bearing strut mounts since we have a double wishbone suspension.
2. does the car have the intake resonator box removed? these cars(includes similarily the tsx and accord) make a slight squealing sound under light throttle that can be heard with any intake modification. its normal though.
dont forget to add compliance bushings to that list, they do not last over 60k miles, GUARANTEED. I see many of them starting to rip at 40k miles or so. that MAY be the floaty feeling you are feeling but kinda doubt it. either way its good to replace them theres a huge thread here on azine about them.
It's the lower balljoint, and I took it to a friends shop who used a prybar to check for play. The play was very minimal.
2) I'm not sure. Doubt it. The car is quiet as a mouse. I'll look up the compliance bushings.
Welcome to Azine!
A lot of members with the MT remove the slave cylinder check valve (someone correct the term if wrong), to make shifting more enjoyable. Plenty of threads on this, here. The garage has tons of info....
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553557
A lot of members with the MT remove the slave cylinder check valve (someone correct the term if wrong), to make shifting more enjoyable. Plenty of threads on this, here. The garage has tons of info....
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553557
+1 For the aspec suspension. I experienced that same floaty feeling with my 08 base and the aspec suspension compleatly got rid of it. It can be a bit stiff at times, but overall ride quality dosent suffer too much. Well worth it if you decide to upgrade and congrats on the type s.
I think everyone's got you covered here as far as your questions.
Welcome to the club! I too bought an 08 TLS with 100k about 10 months ago and did the same kind of maintenance overhaul (plus timing belt, water pump etc.)
The only thing I would add is to look into some GM Synchromesh friction modified trans fluid. You'll need about 3 quarts. Its the best stuff for our transmissions and it'll feel new after that. Also, check if the TSB was done on the 3rd gear, as well as the recall on the power steering hose.
Good luck!
Edit: come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I too had a P0171 code when I first bought my car. My buddy who works at acura did a software update on it and that fixed it. Basically they update the software to increase the parameters for the CEL to come on (or so I was told), in other words, they make the CEL less sensitive on that particular sensor or whathaveyou.
Welcome to the club! I too bought an 08 TLS with 100k about 10 months ago and did the same kind of maintenance overhaul (plus timing belt, water pump etc.)
The only thing I would add is to look into some GM Synchromesh friction modified trans fluid. You'll need about 3 quarts. Its the best stuff for our transmissions and it'll feel new after that. Also, check if the TSB was done on the 3rd gear, as well as the recall on the power steering hose.
Good luck!
Edit: come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I too had a P0171 code when I first bought my car. My buddy who works at acura did a software update on it and that fixed it. Basically they update the software to increase the parameters for the CEL to come on (or so I was told), in other words, they make the CEL less sensitive on that particular sensor or whathaveyou.
I'll look into those recalls so see if they were performed.
Welcome.
If I had $21k, I would purchase this car: '08 Type-S, 38k miles, 1 owner, accident free. The owner told me that he would sell for $20,500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-TL-Typ...US_Cars_Trucks
If I had $21k, I would purchase this car: '08 Type-S, 38k miles, 1 owner, accident free. The owner told me that he would sell for $20,500
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-TL-Typ...US_Cars_Trucks
Thanks! And yes, I ended up picking up the one from Clark. Your feedback on the car was spot on!
09-27-2013, 04:37 PM
#12
Racer
Congrats on the ride. I picked up mine 5 months ago at 92k and i have to say i'm not sure what you mean with the suspension being floaty, although i've never been in a FX35, but mine feels firm as hell, and i dont think i have the a-spec (although i have no clue how to check lol)
09-28-2013, 01:00 AM
#13
Yeah I had a P0171 code once, the dealer by my house told me i needed a valve adjustment for 2 of the valves and quotes me at $400. I then took my car to the dealership where I bought it and they upgraded my software and said sometimes I might get codes for system too lean and the software upgrade should take care of the incorrect codes that pop up sometimes..
Last edited by zubi23; 09-28-2013 at 01:01 AM. Reason: grammar
09-28-2013, 04:34 AM
#14
3) My last manual car was a 5spd 93 Ford Taurus SHO. It had a Hi-Comp/Camm'd 3.2L w/ a 9lb Fidanza Flywheel. On upshifts, the RPMs would drop almost instantly.
On the TL, I've noticed that after clutching in, the RPM seems to take forever to drop. From what I've read, this is due to the drive-by wire system. Is this correct?
Also I have the ASPEC suspension as well. It's a great upgrade. Enjot the TL-S!
James
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