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or lock up.. sheared right in the center. It looks pretty clean otherwise.
OP.. did your brosef buy back as a salvaged vehicle or clean record?
It is a clean record. He didn't file insurance claim or anything because it was towed to the towers yard and stayed their until i purchased it from him. He basically washed his hands clean of it and i swapped the used engine in to get it running.
By "lock up" are you talking about hydraulic lock? Granted I haven't seen all that many hydro-lock engines, but the ones I've seen didn't have straight rods, hell, the rod from a Mercedes 6.0 liter V12 I worked on looked like a freakin' twisted pretzel.
Generally it would bend a rod, but I've seen a couple of rods snapped just like that.. hydrolock.
It is a clean record. He didn't file insurance claim or anything because it was towed to the towers yard and stayed their until i purchased it from him. He basically washed his hands clean of it and i swapped the used engine in to get it running.
Okay, good deal then. There's no way I'd pump money into a salvage unless it's a special project that's going to be with me for a while;
First disaster of the car lol. Daughter called to say her 'engine fell out' because the car won't move and she heard a clunk and felt a jolt. Left work and drove up and figure out what the hell is going on. Engine bay was clean. Looked under passenger side and saw the problem. Old driveshaft exploded.
Towed the car home with our hummer and got a duralast driveshaft from auto zone. Here is the old driveshaft.
When i originally took the driveshaft off during engine installation (because intermediate shaft cracked and needed replacing), i noticed the center rubber was cracked. i didn't think anything of it because if driveshaft ever needed to be replaced i would do so.
Turns out that when the driveshaft exploded, the rubber was no longer showing a crack. I have a theory that the driveshaft had already been busted and pushed the rubber sideways, creating a crack. This is my thought because the metal where it broke is showing old metal that has been exposed to the elements.
Oh and she locked keys in the car and we needed to call a locksmith lol.
Quick question regarding intermediate shaft. From what you've seen, do you think this can be unbolted/removed without dropping the J-pipe? The bearing on mine is spitting up grease so I was planning on changing it with the axles. I know the manual calls for the J-pipe removal so I may just have a shop do it all then. I love wrenching, but sometimes DIY on old cars like this are more a hassle than it's worth if I'm spending hours fighting seized/rusted bolts.
Quick question regarding intermediate shaft. From what you've seen, do you think this can be unbolted/removed without dropping the J-pipe? The bearing on mine is spitting up grease so I was planning on changing it with the axles. I know the manual calls for the J-pipe removal so I may just have a shop do it all then. I love wrenching, but sometimes DIY on old cars like this are more a hassle than it's worth if I'm spending hours fighting seized/rusted bolts.
You can definitely remove the intermediate shaft without dropping j-pipe. I never removed my j-pipe, just on bolted it and that was done to remove the engine.
The intermediate shaft is held in place with 3 bolts that attach to engine. You will need to remove driveshaft, remove the 3 bolts while under the car and then pop the intermediate shaft out. It will leak transmission fluid so i would recommend draining it prior.
You biggest problem will be removing the driveshaft.
I've done the removal of the driveshaft twice now, with two methods.
First method involved disconnect the control arm from the hub assembly. This was a pain in the ass because of the lowest balljoint.
Second method involded me disconnecting the control arm at the subframe and pulling the control arm out. Then disconnecting the strut bolt that is on control arm, to give driveshaft enough room for removal.
I prefer the second method. but it depends on the condition of your bushings. I replaced my inner back control arm bushing so i knew it's condition.
You can definitely remove the intermediate shaft without dropping j-pipe. I never removed my j-pipe, just on bolted it and that was done to remove the engine.
The intermediate shaft is held in place with 3 bolts that attach to engine. You will need to remove driveshaft, remove the 3 bolts while under the car and then pop the intermediate shaft out. It will leak transmission fluid so i would recommend draining it prior.
You biggest problem will be removing the driveshaft.
I've done the removal of the driveshaft twice now, with two methods.
First method involved disconnect the control arm from the hub assembly. This was a pain in the ass because of the lowest balljoint.
Second method involded me disconnecting the control arm at the subframe and pulling the control arm out. Then disconnecting the strut bolt that is on control arm, to give driveshaft enough room for removal.
I prefer the second method. but it depends on the condition of your bushings. I replaced my inner back control arm bushing so i knew it's condition.
Awesome. Thanks for the insight. Never thought of method 2, but that will avoid having to remove the ball joint which I'm all for! Will give it a shot.
01-30-2018, 03:30 PM
