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Originally Posted by rockstar143
(Post 13996065)
^^^Check the hose connection under the cowl and at the reservoir...might just be the pump motor on the reservoir that went bad? A fuse?
Very odd...multiple weird electrical issues...how old is the battery? I'll figure out which fuse that is and check it. Any idea which one? If not not worries, just figured I'd ask. Thanks for the help! Battery is only 9 months. Interstate Megatron Plus MTP-24. Weird thing is that it started up very quickly and easily when I first got it. Now it's starting to be slow again. This morning was actually somewhat cooler than usual (not 100 lol) and it had a little trouble but started on the first try. |
Originally Posted by I hate cars
(Post 13995482)
I've never understood that and I've known people that have done that exact same thing. The light turns green (or so they think) so they obey the light, screw the stopped car in front of you.:confused:
well, only human...:) |
Originally Posted by I hate cars
(Post 13995482)
I've never understood that and I've known people that have done that exact same thing. The light turns green (or so they think) so they obey the light, screw the stopped car in front of you.:confused:
I'm not aiming this at the OP, just the overall tone of the thread... People seem to demand that the car be perfect and that would be nice.. My TL has been as close to perfect as I've ever owned at 109,000 miles. It drives like the day I drove it off the dealer lot with 8 miles on it. No major repairs. It's never broken down or left me stranded except for me running the battery down. I can handle things like the headlight that burned out, replacing switches every couple years, a $.25 O-ring that took 5 minutes of my time. Cars have gotten much more reliable over the years. There are more features, more systems, so more stuff to go wrong but most of those are convenience items, not things that are going to leave you stranded. What people don't look at is cars years ago when I was younger had just enough cooling capacity to keep the engine reasonably cool. Once you hit a decently steep hill you had to turn the AC off and pray the engine didn't overheat. Now you can do the same hill with the AC blasting and never even think to look at the gauge. Electronic fuel injection, especially the newer stuff that uses a wideband with the very quick warmup cycle has vastly improved engine life, over 300% by some reports, over carbureted setups and a small margin over non wideband equipped cars. Transmissions always worry me because we're packing more average power into a smaller, more compact trans that usually has more gears than old cars. The heat buildup is much greater, some parts are made to be smaller and more efficient, giving up some strength but with better fluids and good engineering not a lot has been given up. I worked at a transmission shop in '98 and at that time it was completely normal for a car to come in with around 50-60k needing a rebuild. The early days as the 700-4R went electronic turning into the 4L60E kept transmission shops alive. Honda did a great job of that as well when they starting using electronics, especially with pressure switches lol. It seems like most have the electronics worked out now. There were some bulletproof transmissions back in the day like the TH400 but some that always kind of sucked. I doubt many remember a cold start in a carbureted car. What was considered normal back then would have the owners getting their cars towed to the dealer thinking it's broken if it behaved that way now. Cars used to be temperamental, their owners expected it. Just about the whole population could change their own oil (3k intervals at most), plugs, cap and rotor, even points lol, modulate the non ABS brakes, somewhat control the car if it slides, they were just more involved with the car because they had to be. 100,000 miles was definitely toward the end of the engine's life expectancy because the carburetor's lack of precise AF control, the misfires, and crude timing advance curve. When I get in my TL that's had practically zero problems in 109,000 miles I don't even think about the possibility that it might not start or that it's time to start looking for a new engine since I'm over 100k and it's probably going to fail soon. If you look at common failures of other companies it's usually not the petty stuff that we worry about. Spun rod bearings for one big company, cylinder wall porosity requiring engine replacement, spark plugs that blow out of the heads because the factory did not design in enough thread depth, one that likes to crack the heads between the valves, incredible amounts of intake tract carbon buildup requiring the top end to be disassembled after as few as 30,000 miles for a cleaning, cylinder wall washdown resulting in cylinder wall wear from an improperly implemented DI setup, obnoxious piston slap when cold, software glitches that kill people from uncontrollable full throttle DBW issues (yes, it was in the software). I could go on and on. Older cars like my GN have a good engine mechanically speaking with a great for the day but average EFI system. BUT, the trans is fully mechanical/hydraulic, the engine wiring harness is only connected the the ECU. The ECU is only connected to the engine, not the trans, no CANbus. The only non engine things connected to the ECU is the TCC and AC compressor which are simple on/off inputs and outputs and a speed sensor at the speedo. The body wiring harness is beyond simple. No airbag system. No ABS, no traction control. The headlights don't even use a relay, full power goes through the switch inside the car. Electronics inside the car are limited to power windows and lights. The HVAC controls are vacuum operated except for the fan. It does not have to send a request to the ECU to turn the fan on, it's a simple switch and relay. It's done as simple as possible. No features but very little to go wrong and it still wasn't quite as reliable as the TL with about a thousand more things that could go wrong but don't. http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2011...em-to-persist/ |
Originally Posted by Acura-OC
(Post 13997274)
If Honda was able to produce very reliable transmission 20 years ago I do not see any reason why they shouldn't be able produce one today when other car manufacturers can.
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2011...em-to-persist/ I find it funny as hell that the Honda engineers seem dumbfounded about the problem. The problems and cures have been known for many years now on a message board and these idiots still can't figure it out. |
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
(Post 13996052)
Wish I could say the same Matt. Yesterday I had some very strange things happen with the A/C on. It's been weird before I wrote this post, but not like what happened. I'm uploading a video right now that I'll post in here and the "problems" section to see if I can diagnose. A/C still works, but it's not quite as cold. No big deal. It could be many different things and it's a 120k + car. Hopefully this issue just needs a little more refrigerant. The issue I'll post up...I have NO CLUE.
My damn windshield spray nozzles just stopped working last week also. Seriously...I must have pissed off someone.
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
(Post 13996061)
There is a loud swooshing/wind-type noise coming from up near the defrost area. Much harder to hear on the video b/c the Iphone seems to pick up every little thing. The compressor usually kicks on for a second (making that noise) and then goes off within a few seconds. Well it stayed on for the entire time until I turned it off. Didn't happen today on the way to work, but still.
View My Video ^ VIDEO ^ |
Thanks I'll have a look at that fuse today. As far as being overcharged I have no clue. Possible I assume. Its not going to be too too hot for much longer here. I'll be able to park in my garage and I park in a parking garage at work so hopefully I'll be able to ride it out until next summer.
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Another clue to the #20 fuse being blown is neither the power mirrors, the memory buttons and the windscreen washers won't work.
As for the A/C I just bought a cheapo can and gauge from Big Lots for like $12, but now that I have the correct charge my A/C is colder than it's ever been.
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
(Post 13998453)
Thanks I'll have a look at that fuse today. As far as being overcharged I have no clue. Possible I assume. Its not going to be too too hot for much longer here. I'll be able to park in my garage and I park in a parking garage at work so hopefully I'll be able to ride it out until next summer.
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I know the power mirrors work so I don't think it's the fuse. Hopefully today I can get some time to have a look under the cowl. Always too buys or it's just too damn hot here.
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Originally Posted by CLtotheTL32
(Post 13972317)
I'm more disappointed with the Acura dealership experience than I am with my TL.
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^^^big time.
I need to look into recharging the system...I sometimes feel like it's not cold enough...but then at night it's very cold. So probably just has a hard time competing with the sun. |
Originally Posted by GKinColo08TL
(Post 14001056)
Me too, here in Colorado with Pikes Peak Acura. For one, quoted me $700 to fix HFL, I bought the new module for $200 and fixed it in 10 minutes. Other issues too, they have this holier than thou attitude that just pisses me off!
FYI, that was the Acura Dealership in Charleston SC. |
Originally Posted by crbnfbr
(Post 14001442)
I don't have an Acura Dealership because the nearest one is 100miles away. I also was quoted like $700ish dollars for a new HFL. I asked how for the HFL alone and he said like $300. Then I asked how long it'd take to install ad he said an hour tops. So, I said what you charge $400/hr labor, and then he went on a big rant about it may not be the HFL so they'd have to test it and all this other stuff. After that I started getting pissed, and said I know it's the HFL Christ Acura even put a TSB out on the early models.
FYI, that was the Acura Dealership in Charleston SC. |
they're salesman, plain and simple. It's a dog eat dog world...
just buy the HFL for 200 bucks and install yourself. Even someone with zero mechanical inclination cannot fk this up. |
Originally Posted by rockstar143
(Post 14002014)
they're salesman, plain and simple. It's a dog eat dog world...
just buy the HFL for 200 bucks and install yourself. Even someone with zero mechanical inclination cannot fk this up. I did the HFL rockie...and i didn't fk it up...but I do have some mechanical ability which I didn't need. |
LMFAO...good response, bud. :)
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
(Post 14002014)
they're salesman, plain and simple. It's a dog eat dog world...
just buy the HFL for 200 bucks and install yourself. Even someone with zero mechanical inclination cannot fk this up. I'd also say I have a tad bit of mechanical inclination considering I've done quite a few clutchs, countless brake jobs, coilovers, PCD, J-pipe a few timing belts and soon I'll be doing my TL's. |
In that case...I wish you were local ;)
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
(Post 14002754)
In that case...I wish you were local ;)
I do have to admit though that all the clutch replacements were done on longitudinal engines, which I believe is easier since you don't have to pop the ball joint and pull the drivers axle like on a latitudinal engine. Plus there's usually more room especially compared to a v6. |
Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
(Post 14001042)
I know the power mirrors work so I don't think it's the fuse. Hopefully today I can get some time to have a look under the cowl. Always too buys or it's just too damn hot here.
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I've never had any big issues with my '08 I bought new, but the rattles and creaks have turned me off from any future Acuras.
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Originally Posted by Dan000
(Post 14009276)
I've never had any big issues with my '08 I bought new, but the rattles and creaks have turned me off from any future Acuras.
I don't have the patience to address it all, going into all the paneling, padding all the trouble spots etc... |
Im about to blow this car up, hate ��hait it! i have a 2005 Acura TL, I replaced the front passenger door actuator few like 3 months by disconnecting the battery to reset the "brain" to allow me to open the door.
Then just last night the same door went out, believed to to be same issue. So I attempted to reset the "brain" again and no luck this time wtf! After reading many many words of advice from other related topics I'm stuck!! I pealed back the top portion of the panel from inside the car to find out my door latch cable is broken. Using needle nose pliers I pulled on the cable to open the door.... No luck! Do I need to continue to rip off the door panel? :(.. Or should there be a way to open the door? I'm at wits end with Acura's, piss poor parts. Not to mention I still need to replace my clutch to my compressor for AC |
That part breaks sometimes when you take the door panel off. Not the cable itself but the plasti end piece. I've been through 3 so far that were all my fault. If the cable itself broke, that's not normal. Regardless its a very cheap part.
If you're not sure if its the cable or not roll the window down and open the door from the outside. If it still doesn't open its probably locked. I thought the drivers side lock was direct acting, as in purely mechanical on that particular lock. I've never paid close attention but I can't imagine not having a backup plan in case of power failure. |
(I hate cars)
Ya I got the window down, tried pulling door latch cable and opening it from outside, still won't open. Ya them door latch cables run about $150 from dealer. Can't buy them from after market, tried dam patient |
Only real problems of the TL is the dash and the transmission. Knock on wood my transmission has not yet gone out. And you should fight Acura for the dash, after a few calls to Acura headquarters telling them I would tell everyone I knew to avoid buying an Acura they covered the dash.
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After the experience I had with my 2001 Acura CL Type-S (transmission failed on the 10 FWY in the middle of the desert with above 100* weather) Although Acura covered the trans under warranty as the car only had only 40k miles, I lost complete confidence in Honda/Acura. Even after the trans change, i still noticed gear shifting after coming to a stop. Traded in my car shortly after. There I promised myself I would never get into another Acura/Honda. And here I am with a 2006 Acura Tl.... As mentioned all cars have issues. I had a 2nd gen Lexus GS previously, although that car is renowned for excellent reliability there were many posts of wheels just breaking off due to weak balljoints, actuator issues, and etc. It all comes down to what your car means to you. And what your tolerance level is. If you can deal with searching on Acurazine for self diagnostics with the reference of other members problems and solutions and/or taking it to a master tech for fixes, keep on ridin'. But if this is not your cup of tea, pick up a Beamer with full warranty and switch to a new one before the expiration of that warranty. But nothing like paying yourself every month not having any leverage on your depreciating asset.
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Originally Posted by Hambone13th
(Post 14602440)
(I hate cars)
Ya I got the window down, tried pulling door latch cable and opening it from outside, still won't open. Ya them door latch cables run about $150 from dealer. Can't buy them from after market, tried dam patient Just to get it straight because I'm a little confused, the cable you're talking about is the inside one that connects to the pull latch on the door card, right? If you pull up on the drivers side lock it still won't open even from the outside? If you use the key on the outside will it still not open? I haven't looked at the locking mechanism but I'm sure someone knows how it works. If not I'm taking my door panels off this weekend for more modifications and I can look at it. |
Thats to bad man! My 04 is now at 198k problem free (knock on wood)
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I had that issue too, Matt...they get brittle and snap off due to the angle you have to pull them to to get your hand back there to pop them off.
Just happened with my buddy's accord on both doors. I ended up fabbing up a screw and some thick wire that I wrapped around one end of the plastic piece once popped into place and then wrapped around the screw to keep the tension on. Worked like a charm. |
1. Transmission needed to be rebuilt
2. 3/4th pressure switches quite often 3. RATTLES 4. Dash cracking 5. All my engine mounts completely busted at around 110k miles...like...in pieces 6. Power Steering O-ring 7. Door lock actuators ^^^ That's not a long list for a 9 year old car. |
WOW you guys have been having some major and minor issues with your cars....
knock on wood, I have had no issues and its not like I have left the car stock, I would come under heavily modded if anything.... I hope all your issues get solved for cheap...as for me, I would buy another Acura without hesitation....the only thing is, them fuckers raise the price of the car SOOO MUCH..... I remember a fully loaded MDX was 42-45K out the door....same thing now is 55K :ugh: |
Originally Posted by I hate cars
(Post 13997289)
They made ok transmissions right up until they implemented electronic controls and attempted to make the shifts softer. Somewhere around '98 or '99. Honda's engineers could easily make a trans capable of 300,000 miles but they have to fight with the penny pinchers and marketing which wants a super soft shift to sell cars.
I find it funny as hell that the Honda engineers seem dumbfounded about the problem. The problems and cures have been known for many years now on a message board and these idiots still can't figure it out. 94-97 accords are eletroniclly controlled and those things are bullet proof even with crap maintainence. My friend has my 94 accord with 200K+ on it and it still shifts just fine. The 2002 CL-S with the 5at is on it's dath bed for 2nd trans at 122K with the first one at 71k. |
I wouldn't buy another Acura (2009 and up) they can't compete with their competition and yet doesn't hold value as much as Lexus, no OMG tech offer in the car (2014 RLX just offer power folding mirror, really Acura? mean while my brother 2001 LS430 already had it as a base model). Oh lets not mention some of the option you should get standard like cooling seat, this is it my next car will be Lexus. They want to get back in the game then they better revive the legendary Legend where techs of its time is not even standard on most car today.
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Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai
(Post 14603281)
98 was a desigjn flaw with sub par steel bearings and a non serviceable filter (4at) the updated ones have external filters and hardend steel bearings and last a really long time now. They also upped the oil volume to 2nd gear clutch pack.
94-97 accords are eletroniclly controlled and those things are bullet proof even with crap maintainence. My friend has my 94 accord with 200K+ on it and it still shifts just fine. The 2002 CL-S with the 5at is on it's dath bed for 2nd trans at 122K with the first one at 71k. Fuck this gets old after a while. Answer this: What year did they add the pressure switches. |
Originally Posted by I hate cars
(Post 13997289)
They made ok transmissions right up until they implemented electronic controls and attempted to make the shifts softer. Somewhere around '98 or '99. Honda's engineers could easily make a trans capable of 300,000 miles but they have to fight with the penny pinchers and marketing which wants a super soft shift to sell cars.
I find it funny as hell that the Honda engineers seem dumbfounded about the problem. The problems and cures have been known for many years now on a message board and these idiots still can't figure it out. there is a reason why there're no V8 in the lineup they overcomplicated internals to avoid patent fees, and that only worked well at the time |
Sometimes you dont know what you got til its gone.... Nuff said lol
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While I do share the same decision of not buying an Acura again, I have a different reasons..
Acura's front wheel drive platform is a complete joke, and anyone who says otherwise is ignorant and a die hard Acura fan boy who should receive free oil changes from Acura for their unconditional love to a crippled luxury brand. I think it's an agreeable caveat that a RWD platform is one necessary component to compete with other luxury competitors, and the fact that Acura is reluctant to revise it even STILL to this day, I find absolutely ludicrous. Even reputable car reviewers like Motorweek and Cardriver bring this up anytime they review a new model. It's truly sad because their engineering team assigned to the exterior/interior do a phenomenal job, but the lack-luster FWD platform often keeps them in the subordinate category. That being said, though, I never had a problem with my last TL and the current one. Wear and tear is expected. Go buy a german car, drive it for a year, and your wallet will get lighter gradually from maintenance expenses. You'll then have a better appreciation for your Acura's relatively low maintenance costs. |
^ What about AWD? I would much rather have a performance AWD vehicle than a RWD one if you're truly into performance. That is something Acura does have and they don't charge an arm and a leg for AWD either.
I have have had 7 phenomenal years of ownership with just one real flaw which was a blown speaker the first 3 months of ownership. That and the powersteering hose recall are the only trips to the dealer period. I have done all other maintenance and it has been very easy to work on: oil changes, battery changes, brake fluid, and atf changes. Heck I haven't even changed the brake pads yet and the car has 59k miles. See if you can do that with a BMW. I'm not trying to be a fan boy, but seriously this car has been the most problem free of any cars I have owned so far. The only other issue I had was a broken cover on the cupholder and I got the part for $60 online and replaced it myself- no biggie. |
Originally Posted by I hate cars
(Post 14604030)
Fuck this gets old after a while. Answer this: What year did they add the pressure switches.
fact remains anything pre '98 that is electronically controlled works just fine on honda's side. They do have a much firmer shift though |
Funny, I was just thinking this morning as I put all my windows up (up down every day...) that it's pretty awesome that my 10 year old car's regulators and locking mechanisms are still working flawlessly, to this day. Can't say the same about the door handles or locks on my 97 accord. I guess it's really just how you take care of it and having realistic expectations of your car.
In this day and age, NOTHING is built to be trouble free forever but I bet you can talk to some old school guys and they probably have similar stories from the 50's and 60's about cars giving them problems. Biggest thing that's changed is cheaper material AND technology. They used to have easy cheap fixes, so of course if you compare that to a $200 bluetooth unit or some new age dash material that's good for the environment but only lasts 7 years in the sun...it's going to seem like it's a POS. 90% of the issues I've had with my car, I've created myself with my modding. This car has not left me stranded even once. I love her. C'mon Yeu...GIVE A CARP, brah! :rofl: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...13/photo73.jpg |
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