DC2many

6mt
currently at 109xxx

i live in cali so taking that in account from moderate to slightly over or under temperatured here

oil: redline or mobil1?

trans: want to get gm syncromesh but if not than?

thanks

GoldenShoes

for engine oil, I run the Mobil 1 Ext Perf 5w-30.

I got an auto, and run redline in that. as far as the GM synchromesh I've ran it in a few of my b-series trannies and like it a lot. try to get it IMO.

GeaugaDog

Mobil1 for the engine oil and get the GM fluid for the 6mt tranny

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Gmy syncromesh for 6MTs!!!

its a must

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

wow, I am surprised you are not getting ripped for not using search...

oil - redline.. but mobile 1 works as well.. redline gives you more though

tranny.. the GM stuff is best but the fluid Honda is coming out with has gotten better over the years.. not that much of a drop off.. also not sure if GM makes the synth stuff anymore or has it for sale

DC2many

^ haha, this forum seems less trolly sometimes so i took the chance from laziness =) thanks

i placed an order on syncromesh

should i get a 0w mobil1 since i hear that is the "true full synthetic" or stick w/ oem grade

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Mobil 1's "true synthetic" is the EP (Extended Performance).

So anything with EP is good.

Not sure if you're location has a lot of traffic, but Redline 5W-30 helped a lot in Texas heat/traffic.

I hate cars

Anything you choose will work fine. If you want the absolute best protection Redline 5w-30 would be the best bet with a Royal Purple filter. In norcal you could get away with a 5w-20 to a 15w-40 to a straight 30wt and it wouldn't make much of a difference. There are some very good reasons I recommended the oil I did, if interested search for oil posts under my username.

dstah

iTrader: (-1)

i just changed my manual transmission fluid to gm syncromesh friction modified and i can tell you it shifts and feels better then ever !!! A+ for GMSMFM.

ohsixMTee

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone run Castrol? I ran it in the ex Volvo for 70K miles and grew attached to it.

Mobil 1 made the motor more audible as far as high mileage ticking and such.

DC2many

thanks going to return some mobil1 tomorrow and get some redline stuff

napa have it?

cjj2d

I am running Mobil 1 full synthetic in my 06 TL AT.

Is redline the suggested tranny fluid for AT tranny too?

nfnsquared

Another noob who doesn't read the forum rules...

There are literally 100's of threads on each subject, which, had you taken the time to read would have provided ample information for you to use in your decision making.

1. For MT fluid, the decision is crystal clear.

2. For oil, unless you track your car or want to run extended intervals, Redline is overkill and a waste of money. Truth is, any oil, dino or syn, will provide ample protection for the avg driver following the MID oil change intervals.

I run M1 0w40 which has a very respectable HTHS of 3.7 if you are concerned about high heat protection. And there currently is a $12 rebate on M1 (5 quarts). I change my oil twice a year (roughly 7.5K MID intervals). M1 is always on sale sometime during the 6-month oil change interval for $5/quart and so far the rebates have been offered on a regular basis. So, I get 5 qts of M1 for about $13 ($25-$12). Can't beat that.

I hate cars

Any fluid that is a DexIII or Type F equivalent will give you much less wear and longer life, especially the Type F fluid. Redline's equivalent would be D4 (DexII) and "racing" (type F).

Amsoil's equivalent is "atf" and "Super Shift".

Redline is still the best engine oil out there for many reasons whether it's cleanliness, HTHS, the polar nature, the high levels of zddp and moly, etc. There are only two oils that I know of that are pure ester oils and Redline is one of them. Vastly superior high heat handling. Piston ring land deposits in the engines I've torn down on Redline are almost non existent, not even close to other synthetics. It is far, far superior to other oils.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I run M1 0w-40 as well.

Glad to see you alive and kicking nfnsquared!

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

IHC, why royal purple filter and not amsoil filter? I am stuck anyways since I got 3 amsiol filters left.. just curious because from my searches I thought amsoil filters were the best running with redline oil

I hate cars

They both filter and flow about the same and use the same media. The problem I ran into with Amsoil filters was the anti-drainback valves did not work well. It took twice as long for the oil pressure light to go out after the car sat overnight. When I would do an oil change, that column of oil that's above the filter that makes a mess when you remove the filter was not there, it all leaked back into the pan.

What I should have mentioned is that I was using the S2000 sized filter. Who knows, maybe the stock TL size filter could have a better one but I doubt it. I know there are a couple different plants that manufacture those filters depending on the size. It's not a big deal, if you already have the filters I would use them up, they're still a great filter.

nfnsquared

Still alive, still kicking non-conforming noobs in the nards .

FYI, by now I'd thought I'd be at 10K on my 0w40 test interval, but still have another 1100 miles to go. Now, it's probably going to be November before I hit 10K. So look for my BlackStone Labs report to be posted before Christmas

dragonsking91

I'm sorry dont mean by hi jack ur thread but what about K&N filter. So the royal purple filter is better than all of them? If so i'll buy royal purple filter next time for my oil change.

Aslo have anyone try the Pennzoil Ultra that they release not too long ago? If so how was it. Thanks

dragonsking91

IHC, i searched and found the answer to my first question.

RP , Am soil > K&N and M1. So never mind about that but i still have question about the Pennzoil Ultra oil. How does that stack up against redline.

Second, this is the redline oil you guys talk about right 5-20w fully synthetic that come in pack of 12 Qts

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-5W20-...075539&sr=1-14

thank you sir.

DC2many

Thanks I got 12 redline 5-30, k&n s2000 filter and 3 bottles of gm friction modified.

I run the car hard on occasions. How Many miles will I be expecting before changes? Thanks

I hate cars

That's the Redline. I suggest the 5w-30 but their 5w-20 is very good as well.

Ultra is a group III dino oil with some PAO and esters added. It's a step above Pennzoil Platinum. You could consider it a semi-synthetic since it does contain grp IV and V (pao and ester).

I should clarify: Group III oils legally can be advertised as synthetics but they're just a highly refined dino oil. Still very good but not truly a synthetic. 90% of the oils labeled "synthetic" on the market are grpIII. There are many very good group III oils out there. I don't buy them because I don't agree with the advertising and the fact that they can cost as much as a true synthetic.

Group IV oils are PAO and a true synthetic.

Group V oils are esters and a true synthetic.

Each have unique characteristics. A PAO is not very polar, it doesn't like to stick to metal surfaces so it's usually mixed with either an ester or a grp III or II dino oil. A PAO will keep an engine very clean but once you exceed it's upper temperature limits such as in the ring land area, the deposits it leaves behind are worse than a dino oil. This is the area where you can get stuck rings and a loss of performance and mpg. This is the area that many "cleaners" target.

An ester has the best natural cleaning abilities without the need for lots of added detergents. Less detergents=more oil to lube the engine and less to lose over the oil change interval.

An ester is very polar meaning it likes to cling to metal and to itself. It's naturally good for seals, required little to no seal conditioners. It's much less volatile as seen by the ultra low NOACK numbers. This means less oil evaporation through the PCV system to gum up the intake to later be burned through the engine and less oil getting past the rings to be burned.

An ester will usually have a higher HTHS rating for a given viscosity which is directly related to engine wear. The higher the better.

In the ring land area it separates itself from all of the other oils. I've torn down engines run exclusively on esters including my own and it's surprising to say the least. The ring land area looks like a new engine, no deposits, you could almost pass the pistons off as new. My turbo car makes over 100hp per cylinder and sees 32psi boost on the hard runs and wear is almost non existent. The lack of deposits is the single biggest difference I've seen.

It has a naturally high viscosity index (doesn't thicken as much when cold, doesn't thin as much when hot) which means less viscosity index improvers have to be added. These VIIs are a huge contributor to sludge, varnish, and shearing of the oil under high stress which causes wear. In fact, Redline 5w-30 has no VIIs which means technically it's a straight 30wt but since the base oil has such great cold flow properties (a property of ester) it qualifies as a straight 30wt.

Motul also has all of these properties mentioned. The difference between Motul and Redline's street oils is that Redline does not meet API guidelines for an SM oil. The reason being is that Redline has twice as much of the anti wear additive ZDDP that the API allows for this designation. It also has a ton of moly which is a friction modifier/anti wear/extreme pressure additive. Many oils use little to no moly because it's not cheap.

Redline is a pure ester grp V oil. So where you have Ultra that adds a little ester for better performance, Redline is pure ester. The difference between an ester oil and a PAO is greater than the difference between a dino (grpIII) and a synthetic PAO (grpIV)

In my opinion, if you're going to pay the higher price for a synthetic you might as well get a true synthetic and an ester at that. The only esters I'm aware of is Motul and Redline.

With all of this said, any modern oil no matter how cheap that's SM rated will be fine for the TL and the chances of having a lubrication issue are slim to none.

On this oil, running it hard won't affect the life. I think it's good to about 18,000 miles before the TBN and additives become depleted. I change mine at 5,000 miles because no matter how good the oil is, you still have the contaminate load from combustion blowby. Or in other words, it's going to get dirty regardless of how good the oil is. If I weren't so OCD I would have absolutely no isssue running 10,000 mile intervals or recommending them to someone else. 10k is easy and the contaminate load should be pretty low. The biggest factor would be a filter that's good for this interval. The K&N should be fine. A Royal Purple would give even more peace of mind.

Don't get scared when you first change to this oil. It will turn black very quickly. It cleans very well so the first couple changes it will turn black quick as it cleans. After that it will stay golden through the whole interval.

dragonsking91

[QUOTE=I hate cars;13209008]That's the Redline. I suggest the 5w-30 but their 5w-20 is very good as well.

my car is just over 40k. I dont want to use 5-30, as it is thicker than the 5-20 so i want my engine to run smoothly as possible. However, at cold starts the car sound a bit knocking but only for about 30 secs before the engine warm up.

I hate cars

It won't make a bit of difference in how smooth it runs. You can run a 15w-40 and it will be fine. The only difference is the 30wt will give a little better hot protection than the 20wt. The 5w-20 recommendation is CAFE mandated, it's not in your best interests (less engine wear), it's something the manufacturer has to comply with or get penalized for that 0.5mpg difference.

You should have no knocking on any oil your run. What filter are you running? I would make sure the anti drainback valve is working. 30 seconds sounds like piston slap which a thicker oil can quiet down. There is no downside, only upsides to the 30wt.

cjj2d

lots of good info in here, thanks guys!

ohsixMTee

iTrader: (2)

I found out first hand today that the TL's have their oil filters in an odd spot. How do you remove them without getting oil on the exhaust/subframe/control arm? lol It doesn't make a huge mess but I def. had to do a little clean up wiping afterwards.

nfnsquared

^^^Next time you could try the zip lock bag method as suggested by Southern Boy.

dragonsking91

I running with K&N filter right now and i don't know how to explain the sound maybe it is the belt or something but its only happens with cold start in the morning and it goes away after that. So 5-20wt is use b/c it let you get better MPG even though 5-30wt would be better to protect the engine right?? I always thought thicker oil engine will wear down the engine faster since it so thick and the engine kinda like work harder to operate LOL yes I'm a noob. Thanks

SpiderX1016

It seems like they're recommending 0w-20 on some 2012 models at least that's what I saw on the TSX and TL oil filler cap.

I hate cars

We all were at one time. The mpg difference between the 30 and 20wt will not be measurable. You're talking .5mpg best case and less than that on average. Its worth it for the manufacturer when they're selling a million cars but the trade off is not worth it for you and me.

The friction modifier additives like moly will make up for any pumping losses.

ohsixMTee

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tip, I'll do just that.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

there are a couple of ways you can attack this

if you ge at your filter through the wheel well after removing your wheel then just put some plastic down around the frame.. you can also do the following which applies for getting at it under the car

so if you get at it under the car I used the method of puncturing the filter slightly with a nail at the lowest angle of the filter.. stole this idea from someone on the AZ oil boards.. just did this the other day and it leaked a lot out exactly where I wanted it to... still had oil in the filter so I unscrewed the filter slightly so that oil slips down the filter...

it is time consuming.. takes about 3-5 minutes to get most of the oil out of the filter area so you can remove it without getting it all over the subframe... but it works

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

IHC, i did not know that about the S2000 filters.. are they just a bigger size so it can process more? and if (in the future) did get them are they just the same year size?

really curious to know how someone found this trick too, i know its not rocket science but really curious.. wondering if there is a better oil filter size than the S2000