Need an advice about the Transmission
#1
Need an advice about the Transmission
Hi,
Like the title say, I need an advice for what tranny fluid I should use in my tranny. I have a 07 TL-S with 103K. The tranny works very good but I want to help my tranny to stay working like it's doing it. Any comment is welcome.Thanks guys!!
Like the title say, I need an advice for what tranny fluid I should use in my tranny. I have a 07 TL-S with 103K. The tranny works very good but I want to help my tranny to stay working like it's doing it. Any comment is welcome.Thanks guys!!
#6
Team Owner
No difference in high mileage or not. You want to stay far far away from any atf labeled high mileage. It will have seal swell agents to stop leaks. The problem is it swells the internal rubbers and will cause a failure in a short time.
Redline Racing fluid for everything. Mix with Redline racing lightweight for cold climates if you wish.
103,000 is not even close to high mileage on these cars.
Redline Racing fluid for everything. Mix with Redline racing lightweight for cold climates if you wish.
103,000 is not even close to high mileage on these cars.
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#9
Team Owner
#11
whats the fluid change history on your car--ever done in the 103kmiles?
IHC- are you suggesting 3 qt or full changeout on the redline, and does it vary on trans with 100 which you do ?
(remember Im gen2 with the really crap trans)
for the car itself 100 is nothing- change timing belt, water pump, etc.. and keep driving
Engines proven to go over 200 and even into the 300kmiles!! lifespan
A gen2 dismantled at 200 still had the honing marks on the cylinder walls! like new~
IHC- are you suggesting 3 qt or full changeout on the redline, and does it vary on trans with 100 which you do ?
(remember Im gen2 with the really crap trans)
for the car itself 100 is nothing- change timing belt, water pump, etc.. and keep driving
Engines proven to go over 200 and even into the 300kmiles!! lifespan
A gen2 dismantled at 200 still had the honing marks on the cylinder walls! like new~
#12
Cruisin'
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What about Royal Purple? I took my car in when it was still under warranty to a dealership. It is one I know and trust and they are pretty good. All the mechanics told me not to put the Royal Purple in because if I had transmission failure with RP they would void my warranty on the transmission. Which I can see them doing but. What are you thoughts on RP Transmission fluid?
#13
Dogmatic Dinosaur
This is the best price that I can find (shipped), can anybody beat it?
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...2433234&sr=8-1
The redline is probably the best. However, the RP or even Mobil 1 synthetics are miles ahead of the Honda ATF even though they do have some friction modifiers in them. I have Mobil 1 Synthetic in my cars for my initial 4x3 because I got 2 cases (minus 1 leaky bottle) at a damaged freight place for like $1 a quart.... and I would rather have a 4x3 with the mobil and then a 2x3 with the redline racing than have any residual Z1 in there.
I don't know where you would get the RP, but around here it is like $13-15 a quart. You can get the redline racing cheaper than than by the case at amazon and have it shipped to your house. I think that RP fluids are pretty good, but are very costly compared to the other choices.
You should never trust a Honda/Acura dealership, mechanic, tech, employee, etc. about anything transmission related. What have they ever done to earn your trust regarding trannys?
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...2433234&sr=8-1
The redline is probably the best. However, the RP or even Mobil 1 synthetics are miles ahead of the Honda ATF even though they do have some friction modifiers in them. I have Mobil 1 Synthetic in my cars for my initial 4x3 because I got 2 cases (minus 1 leaky bottle) at a damaged freight place for like $1 a quart.... and I would rather have a 4x3 with the mobil and then a 2x3 with the redline racing than have any residual Z1 in there.
I don't know where you would get the RP, but around here it is like $13-15 a quart. You can get the redline racing cheaper than than by the case at amazon and have it shipped to your house. I think that RP fluids are pretty good, but are very costly compared to the other choices.
You should never trust a Honda/Acura dealership, mechanic, tech, employee, etc. about anything transmission related. What have they ever done to earn your trust regarding trannys?
#14
Team Owner
This is the best price that I can find (shipped), can anybody beat it?
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...2433234&sr=8-1
The redline is probably the best. However, the RP or even Mobil 1 synthetics are miles ahead of the Honda ATF even though they do have some friction modifiers in them. I have Mobil 1 Synthetic in my cars for my initial 4x3 because I got 2 cases (minus 1 leaky bottle) at a damaged freight place for like $1 a quart.... and I would rather have a 4x3 with the mobil and then a 2x3 with the redline racing than have any residual Z1 in there.
I don't know where you would get the RP, but around here it is like $13-15 a quart. You can get the redline racing cheaper than than by the case at amazon and have it shipped to your house. I think that RP fluids are pretty good, but are very costly compared to the other choices.
You should never trust a Honda/Acura dealership, mechanic, tech, employee, etc. about anything transmission related. What have they ever done to earn your trust regarding trannys?
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...2433234&sr=8-1
The redline is probably the best. However, the RP or even Mobil 1 synthetics are miles ahead of the Honda ATF even though they do have some friction modifiers in them. I have Mobil 1 Synthetic in my cars for my initial 4x3 because I got 2 cases (minus 1 leaky bottle) at a damaged freight place for like $1 a quart.... and I would rather have a 4x3 with the mobil and then a 2x3 with the redline racing than have any residual Z1 in there.
I don't know where you would get the RP, but around here it is like $13-15 a quart. You can get the redline racing cheaper than than by the case at amazon and have it shipped to your house. I think that RP fluids are pretty good, but are very costly compared to the other choices.
You should never trust a Honda/Acura dealership, mechanic, tech, employee, etc. about anything transmission related. What have they ever done to earn your trust regarding trannys?
#15
Team Owner
Just searched the Mobil website and can't find a racing fluid. All I found was their standard synthetic ATF which looks like a DexIII fluid. So less FM than Z1, more than type F.
#16
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Oh yeah, the Mobil is a Dex Merc III substitute - I think that they make a Dex 4 version too. I had used it in my 1992 accord since about 1998 (it was different then, but still close) at recommendation from my transmission guy. I got 340K out of that tranny and it was still strong when I traded the car in a few weeks ago at 400K.
My thought was to use the mobil for 4x3 to get as much z1 out as possible. Then, a 2x3 with the racing leaving the higher quality Mobil as the residual base. I have 2 TLs and this gets expensive to use too much redline.![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anybody find a cheaper price? I just bought a case, but I would buy another one...
My thought was to use the mobil for 4x3 to get as much z1 out as possible. Then, a 2x3 with the racing leaving the higher quality Mobil as the residual base. I have 2 TLs and this gets expensive to use too much redline.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anybody find a cheaper price? I just bought a case, but I would buy another one...
#17
Team Owner
Oh yeah, the Mobil is a Dex Merc III substitute - I think that they make a Dex 4 version too. I had used it in my 1992 accord since about 1998 (it was different then, but still close) at recommendation from my transmission guy. I got 340K out of that tranny and it was still strong when I traded the car in a few weeks ago at 400K.
My thought was to use the mobil for 4x3 to get as much z1 out as possible. Then, a 2x3 with the racing leaving the higher quality Mobil as the residual base. I have 2 TLs and this gets expensive to use too much redline.![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anybody find a cheaper price? I just bought a case, but I would buy another one...
My thought was to use the mobil for 4x3 to get as much z1 out as possible. Then, a 2x3 with the racing leaving the higher quality Mobil as the residual base. I have 2 TLs and this gets expensive to use too much redline.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anybody find a cheaper price? I just bought a case, but I would buy another one...
If it were me and I wanted to get as much Z1 out, I would buy 9 quarts of $3 no name type F locally and then do a 3x3 of Redline. I would place more emphasis on the lack of FM than the quality of base oil.
This is just splitting hairs, either way will work fine and will probably be no different. You really don't need to get all of the Z1 out.
The Type S guys have it easy sinec they can do a flush through the cooler line using only 8-9 quarts to get 100% new fluid. I'm doing it this way next time since I have a cooler installed.
#18
whats the fluid change history on your car--ever done in the 103kmiles?
IHC- are you suggesting 3 qt or full changeout on the redline, and does it vary on trans with 100 which you do ?
(remember Im gen2 with the really crap trans)
for the car itself 100 is nothing- change timing belt, water pump, etc.. and keep driving
Engines proven to go over 200 and even into the 300kmiles!! lifespan
A gen2 dismantled at 200 still had the honing marks on the cylinder walls! like new~
IHC- are you suggesting 3 qt or full changeout on the redline, and does it vary on trans with 100 which you do ?
(remember Im gen2 with the really crap trans)
for the car itself 100 is nothing- change timing belt, water pump, etc.. and keep driving
Engines proven to go over 200 and even into the 300kmiles!! lifespan
A gen2 dismantled at 200 still had the honing marks on the cylinder walls! like new~
#20
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
Unless the previous owner already put a good fluid with low FM (friction modifiers), it would definitely not be a waste of money. Since you don't know what the previous owner might have done, I would do it. It will greatly help your transmission to last longer. For more info on why you should get better fluid in your AT, refer to the following thread: Racing ATF
#22
Team Owner
Switching fluids will not cause problems. The only time high mileage is an issue is if you have never done a fluid change in 108K. If you already did one with Z1 and nothing bad happened, nothing bad will happen if you make the switch.
#23
Banned
iTrader: (2)
No difference in high mileage or not. You want to stay far far away from any atf labeled high mileage. It will have seal swell agents to stop leaks. The problem is it swells the internal rubbers and will cause a failure in a short time.
Redline Racing fluid for everything. Mix with Redline racing lightweight for cold climates if you wish.
103,000 is not even close to high mileage on these cars.
Redline Racing fluid for everything. Mix with Redline racing lightweight for cold climates if you wish.
103,000 is not even close to high mileage on these cars.
I did the pressure switches at 50k and the racing atf at 60k and my auto TL-S still shifts rough and sloppy. Good luck OP.
#24
Team Owner
You're the first I've ever heard about out of probably over 100 that have complained. Not a bad record at all.
#25
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i need to get my tranny flush.. So at 129.00 for the flush and how many quarts will i need of this?? And is this the right fluid?
http://www.autobarn.net/racing-atf.html
http://www.autobarn.net/racing-atf.html
#26
Team Owner
i need to get my tranny flush.. So at 129.00 for the flush and how many quarts will i need of this?? And is this the right fluid?
http://www.autobarn.net/racing-atf.html
http://www.autobarn.net/racing-atf.html
9 quarts for a 3x3. If you're doing the cooler line method, I would get 9 quarts just in case. You will probably need 7-8 of them but if you don't refill at the same rate the fluid is coming out, you can end up with a mostly empty sump when you shut the engine off and need the extra oil.
#27
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That's the one.
9 quarts for a 3x3. If you're doing the cooler line method, I would get 9 quarts just in case. You will probably need 7-8 of them but if you don't refill at the same rate the fluid is coming out, you can end up with a mostly empty sump when you shut the engine off and need the extra oil.
9 quarts for a 3x3. If you're doing the cooler line method, I would get 9 quarts just in case. You will probably need 7-8 of them but if you don't refill at the same rate the fluid is coming out, you can end up with a mostly empty sump when you shut the engine off and need the extra oil.
#28
Team Owner
If you have a type-S you can pull a cooler line and let it go into a bucket. This is a far superior method but it can only be done on a Type-S which comes with a cooler or a base that has an aftermarket cooler.
Do not let them do a power flush!
#29
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You drain and refill 3 times. It holds 3 quarts so it's a 3x3. 3 quarts 3 times. Half of the fluid is left over in the converter so when you drain it you only get half out. So you drain and fill, drive it around for a minute so the old and new fluid mix and then you drain and fill again. You get a higher percent of new fluid with each drain and fill.
If you have a type-S you can pull a cooler line and let it go into a bucket. This is a far superior method but it can only be done on a Type-S which comes with a cooler or a base that has an aftermarket cooler.
Do not let them do a power flush!
If you have a type-S you can pull a cooler line and let it go into a bucket. This is a far superior method but it can only be done on a Type-S which comes with a cooler or a base that has an aftermarket cooler.
Do not let them do a power flush!
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#30
Team Owner
sry i was reading the DIY ATF right after i asked. Thats what the shop was going to do is a power flush.. yes i have a type S. so i have to buy a cooler line? sry noob at this, but dont want to spend the 129.00 on the service if im going to spend over 90$ in fluid. Thanks for your help man, can always depend on you since you reppin B-town.. lol ![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
The only way to do it right without hurting the trans is to do a drain and fill, pull one of the cooler lines off and stick it in a bucket. Start the engine and the fluid will start pumping out. Add fluid through the fill hole at the same rate it's flowing out of the cooler line until you see new clean fluid coming out of the line. Shut the engine off, top off, reconnect the hose, and you're done.
Do not let them use a machine to force the fluid through. There have been too many failures from them.
I would stand around and watch them. Make sure they use your fluid. I've caught shops trying to take expensive fluid home and filling with their cheap bulk fluid.
#31
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Lol. Since you have a type S, they can do it with the stock cooler lines. Most shops call this a flush.
The only way to do it right without hurting the trans is to do a drain and fill, pull one of the cooler lines off and stick it in a bucket. Start the engine and the fluid will start pumping out. Add fluid through the fill hole at the same rate it's flowing out of the cooler line until you see new clean fluid coming out of the line. Shut the engine off, top off, reconnect the hose, and you're done.
Do not let them use a machine to force the fluid through. There have been too many failures from them.
I would stand around and watch them. Make sure they use your fluid. I've caught shops trying to take expensive fluid home and filling with their cheap bulk fluid.
The only way to do it right without hurting the trans is to do a drain and fill, pull one of the cooler lines off and stick it in a bucket. Start the engine and the fluid will start pumping out. Add fluid through the fill hole at the same rate it's flowing out of the cooler line until you see new clean fluid coming out of the line. Shut the engine off, top off, reconnect the hose, and you're done.
Do not let them use a machine to force the fluid through. There have been too many failures from them.
I would stand around and watch them. Make sure they use your fluid. I've caught shops trying to take expensive fluid home and filling with their cheap bulk fluid.
#32
Dogmatic Dinosaur
If you are not unequivocally sure how to do this with the cooler line, just drain and refill it 3 times. If you can change oil on your own, then you can do this.
You can do a lot of damage to your clutches if you get air in them on accident. The risk is not worth the reward, IMO if you mess it up.
You can do a lot of damage to your clutches if you get air in them on accident. The risk is not worth the reward, IMO if you mess it up.
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#40
thx man! last question ( i swear, at least for this topic) I can do this myself if i have a buddy filling the tranny at the same time i have the cooler line in the bucket? is this cooler line too hard to access? I take it i dont need to mess with the drain plug and all that madness in the ATF DIY?
You will want to take it about 2 quarts at a time. I tried to pump out 4 quarts the first time and ran the trans dry for a second - so I would pump out 2 then add 2.