my TL got broken into today...or did it?
#41
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Originally Posted by california
DON'T GIVE theives a reason to to break into your car. You cant really prevent theives from stealing the entire car, but I would guess that the majority of car thefts are items that are left in plain view. When ever I park my car for the night, I always leave glove box, center console, and cup holders area open. I place my CDS in the trunk and remove all other accesories out of the car.
c'mon a cd case of burned cd's is supposed to be considered a reason to tempt a thief to break into a car?
and actually the theft of the entire car WAS prevented bc the not so bright thieves didnt know the TL is a computer chip car...they must've been disappointed after they ripped off the plastic cover under the steering column to get to my ingiton wires
#42
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by vupac1
am i missing something here? i dont get this test at all...if you press unlock and open your door why the hell would the alarm sound? are you saying you want the alarm to sound everytime you get into your car? if i'm totally lost please explain what you're trying to do a little bit better, bc i'm confused
Not the unlock button on the key fob.
#43
41 43 55 52 41 20 54 4C
i dont really thing that you can "pry back" the window on cars that have a full frame door... but on cars that just have a window that mates to the frame of the car, like convertibles and some some sports coupes have, then yes, you can pull it back and push the unlock button, pull up the lock, etc... this is why most cars that have windows like this, they dont make the unlock button in an easy place to just "push down" like it would be on our TLs.
Slimjims really do just refer to the thin metal device (well, that and the little beef sticks too ) that is stuck down into the door on the OUTSIDE of the window, in between the dust/dirt/water wiper and the glass, the idea is to either push, or pull, on different areas of the lock mechanism including the other little connecting bars in there that are part of the lock/latch mechanism. I used to be able to get into my 88 honda accord with a slimjim in about 20 seconds, once i learned where to push... i was using a homemade one, an 18" metal ruler with a notch cut out of the end of it...
If you are in your car, wait a minute, and then hit the unlock button, then NO, your alarm won't go off, but i wonder if you lifted up on the lock pin thing, the thing by the window that goes up and down, if you lifted that up and then opened the door... or better yet, have someone outside try to open it after you lift up on the lock...
Slimjims really do just refer to the thin metal device (well, that and the little beef sticks too ) that is stuck down into the door on the OUTSIDE of the window, in between the dust/dirt/water wiper and the glass, the idea is to either push, or pull, on different areas of the lock mechanism including the other little connecting bars in there that are part of the lock/latch mechanism. I used to be able to get into my 88 honda accord with a slimjim in about 20 seconds, once i learned where to push... i was using a homemade one, an 18" metal ruler with a notch cut out of the end of it...
If you are in your car, wait a minute, and then hit the unlock button, then NO, your alarm won't go off, but i wonder if you lifted up on the lock pin thing, the thing by the window that goes up and down, if you lifted that up and then opened the door... or better yet, have someone outside try to open it after you lift up on the lock...
#44
Registered User
Originally Posted by mp3car
i dont really thing that you can "pry back" the window on cars that have a full frame door... but on cars that just have a window that mates to the frame of the car, like convertibles and some some sports coupes have, then yes, you can pull it back and push the unlock button, pull up the lock, etc... this is why most cars that have windows like this, they dont make the unlock button in an easy place to just "push down" like it would be on our TLs.
Slimjims really do just refer to the thin metal device (well, that and the little beef sticks too ) that is stuck down into the door on the OUTSIDE of the window, in between the dust/dirt/water wiper and the glass, the idea is to either push, or pull, on different areas of the lock mechanism including the other little connecting bars in there that are part of the lock/latch mechanism. I used to be able to get into my 88 honda accord with a slimjim in about 20 seconds, once i learned where to push... i was using a homemade one, an 18" metal ruler with a notch cut out of the end of it...
If you are in your car, wait a minute, and then hit the unlock button, then NO, your alarm won't go off, but i wonder if you lifted up on the lock pin thing, the thing by the window that goes up and down, if you lifted that up and then opened the door... or better yet, have someone outside try to open it after you lift up on the lock...
Slimjims really do just refer to the thin metal device (well, that and the little beef sticks too ) that is stuck down into the door on the OUTSIDE of the window, in between the dust/dirt/water wiper and the glass, the idea is to either push, or pull, on different areas of the lock mechanism including the other little connecting bars in there that are part of the lock/latch mechanism. I used to be able to get into my 88 honda accord with a slimjim in about 20 seconds, once i learned where to push... i was using a homemade one, an 18" metal ruler with a notch cut out of the end of it...
If you are in your car, wait a minute, and then hit the unlock button, then NO, your alarm won't go off, but i wonder if you lifted up on the lock pin thing, the thing by the window that goes up and down, if you lifted that up and then opened the door... or better yet, have someone outside try to open it after you lift up on the lock...
if you lift the pin the alarm will sound
#45
41 43 55 52 41 20 54 4C
yeah that's what i guessed... (about just lifting the pin)...
but you are saying you can pry back the window on a door that has frame around the window?? I guess maybe it would be possible since it's not like the window goes up into the metal, it only goes up into the rubber seal... but still seems like it would be hard to do... but yeah, if you did that, all it would take is a firm peice of metal/wood/pretty much anything, to push the button down... but it would probably be pretty hard to do considering where our lock button is... i mean the way it's on the side, not on the armrest like some cars are... my wife's mustang (anyone want to buy it? 2000 V6-50k, $8k) has frameless doors AND the button is on the armrest if i remember right... i bet it would be really easy to steal!!
but you are saying you can pry back the window on a door that has frame around the window?? I guess maybe it would be possible since it's not like the window goes up into the metal, it only goes up into the rubber seal... but still seems like it would be hard to do... but yeah, if you did that, all it would take is a firm peice of metal/wood/pretty much anything, to push the button down... but it would probably be pretty hard to do considering where our lock button is... i mean the way it's on the side, not on the armrest like some cars are... my wife's mustang (anyone want to buy it? 2000 V6-50k, $8k) has frameless doors AND the button is on the armrest if i remember right... i bet it would be really easy to steal!!
#46
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well when i went to the dealer today and was telling them about it, they said they alarm probably did go off, but its not like it stays on forever, he wasnt sure how long it cuts off after, but it does cut off as to not completely drain the battery
#47
Drifting
Originally Posted by vupac1
am i missing something here? i dont get this test at all...if you press unlock and open your door why the hell would the alarm sound? are you saying you want the alarm to sound everytime you get into your car? if i'm totally lost please explain what you're trying to do a little bit better, bc i'm confused
Yes I want the alarm to sound if you open the door without disarming the alarm. On the TL, to disable the alarm you can do any of the following:
1.) hit disam on keyfob
2.) use the key to physically unlock door
3.) manually unlock door
4.) hit the power-unlock
On my other cars, the only way to disarm the alarm, is to use the keyfob...
Here's why that is a good thing:
2.) Use key to phsyically unlock door: Stick screwdriver in door lock, bust lock, and alarm will disarm
3.) Manually unlock door: Use coat hanger to pull up door lock, and alarm will disarm
4.) hit the power-unlock: Stick stiff wire through window, and hit the unlock button, and alarm will disarm
#48
Thiefs are overiding Acura's alarms . . .
So, my TL is getting serviced and I have a loaner TSX with no remote. I locked the car last night with the key and checked the handle and the trunk release button on the outside of the car. The car was locked tight. This morning, everything from the glovebox was on the floor and the driver's side lock was unlocked. The alarm did not sound.
WTF???
So, my TL is getting serviced and I have a loaner TSX with no remote. I locked the car last night with the key and checked the handle and the trunk release button on the outside of the car. The car was locked tight. This morning, everything from the glovebox was on the floor and the driver's side lock was unlocked. The alarm did not sound.
WTF???
#50
05/5AT/Navi/ABP/Quartz
Originally Posted by sftroy
Thiefs are overiding Acura's alarms . . .
So, my TL is getting serviced and I have a loaner TSX with no remote. I locked the car last night with the key and checked the handle and the trunk release button on the outside of the car. The car was locked tight. This morning, everything from the glovebox was on the floor and the driver's side lock was unlocked. The alarm did not sound.
WTF???
So, my TL is getting serviced and I have a loaner TSX with no remote. I locked the car last night with the key and checked the handle and the trunk release button on the outside of the car. The car was locked tight. This morning, everything from the glovebox was on the floor and the driver's side lock was unlocked. The alarm did not sound.
WTF???
Only solutions are aftermarket alarm, rent a garage (ha-ha), move or leave the car unlocked. You could also stay up all night till they come bck and get physical; not recommended.
Back in the 80's it seemed like every car in BA had a broken window from some past theft. Some had signs, NO RADIO IN CAR. SUX to have a nice car and nowhere to park it at night. SF is like NYC, a car can be a major hassle.
#51
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Originally Posted by avs007
Here's why that is a good thing:
2.) Use key to phsyically unlock door: Stick screwdriver in door lock, bust lock, and alarm will disarm
3.) Manually unlock door: Use coat hanger to pull up door lock, and alarm will disarm
4.) hit the power-unlock: Stick stiff wire through window, and hit the unlock button, and alarm will disarm
2.) Use key to phsyically unlock door: Stick screwdriver in door lock, bust lock, and alarm will disarm
3.) Manually unlock door: Use coat hanger to pull up door lock, and alarm will disarm
4.) hit the power-unlock: Stick stiff wire through window, and hit the unlock button, and alarm will disarm
#52
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I am an authority on this topic, unfortunately
Originally Posted by vupac1
well when i went to the dealer today and was telling them about it, they said they alarm probably did go off, but its not like it stays on forever, he wasnt sure how long it cuts off after, but it does cut off as to not completely drain the battery
To add insult to injury, I'm aware also that other key-fobs can occasionally lock and unlock a TL because I've seen this happen in my car. I'll have locked the car and activated the after market alarm and will come back to find the car unlocked (but not broken into) or have found the factory alarm engaged. Not a very safe feature of the factory alarm/locking wireless mechanism.
My recommendation is to get an after market alarm installed asap.
ONE OTHER VERY IMPORTANT THING!!! I noticed something similar to what another writer noticed after one of my break-ins. The thief had gone into the driver's manual. The reason for this, I believe, is that some idiot dealers (like Mike Harvey in Burlingame California) have written key codes into the manual. What this means is that the thief can go off, pretend they are you, have a key made using the code, and then come back and steal your car. Be very afraid! I had to have my locks changed on my car after the key code was stolen.
I hope this helps!
#53
Originally Posted by bomber44
Like another writer to this forum, my TL was broken into three times in San Francisco before I installed an after market alarm and stopped having this problem. The first time I was prepared to blame myself. After that, I was painfully aware that the thief was picking the lock or using some kind of code grabber to pop the lock open. The fact is, no dealer will admit to the real problem which is that the factory alarm is a piece of junk. If you pick the lock on the car (I saw scrapes around my door lock indicating that that was how they were getting in) it will de-arm the alarm. A good alarm should stay on until the key-fob deactivates, and this is what you will get with an after market alarm. This way, if the lock is picked and the door opened, the alarm will still go off. In the TL, if you pick the lock the alarm is de-armed.
To add insult to injury, I'm aware also that other key-fobs can occasionally lock and unlock a TL because I've seen this happen in my car. I'll have locked the car and activated the after market alarm and will come back to find the car unlocked (but not broken into) or have found the factory alarm engaged. Not a very safe feature of the factory alarm/locking wireless mechanism.
My recommendation is to get an after market alarm installed asap.
ONE OTHER VERY IMPORTANT THING!!! I noticed something similar to what another writer noticed after one of my break-ins. The thief had gone into the driver's manual. The reason for this, I believe, is that some idiot dealers (like Mike Harvey in Burlingame California) have written key codes into the manual. What this means is that the thief can go off, pretend they are you, have a key made using the code, and then come back and steal your car. Be very afraid! I had to have my locks changed on my car after the key code was stolen.
I hope this helps!
To add insult to injury, I'm aware also that other key-fobs can occasionally lock and unlock a TL because I've seen this happen in my car. I'll have locked the car and activated the after market alarm and will come back to find the car unlocked (but not broken into) or have found the factory alarm engaged. Not a very safe feature of the factory alarm/locking wireless mechanism.
My recommendation is to get an after market alarm installed asap.
ONE OTHER VERY IMPORTANT THING!!! I noticed something similar to what another writer noticed after one of my break-ins. The thief had gone into the driver's manual. The reason for this, I believe, is that some idiot dealers (like Mike Harvey in Burlingame California) have written key codes into the manual. What this means is that the thief can go off, pretend they are you, have a key made using the code, and then come back and steal your car. Be very afraid! I had to have my locks changed on my car after the key code was stolen.
I hope this helps!
What aftermarket alarm did you buy? I'd love to discuss this with you . . I'll PM you with my contact info.
sftroy
#54
Supreme Underlord/Abyss
I don't know whether the TL's security system is any better or worse than any other factory system, and I hope to never find out.
What I DO know is that the factory system for all third generation TLs is the same. Any thief armed with that knowledge can find the weak-spot and bypass the alarm on any 2004-2005 TL.
The problem is the same for ALL factory systems. My father had a 1991 Nissan Maxima, and one night I awoke to noise from the driveway. I looked out the window and found two a$$holes in the car, using a slide hammer to pop the ignition cylinder. They were able to bypass the security system by punching the drivers door (under the door handle and keyless entry buttons), and using a bent antenna to yank the keyless entry wires. That apparently was enough to keep the alarm silent and allow them entry to the car. They also popped the hood once they were in the car and removed the alarm system relay.
My scaring off the losers was the only reason the car didn't get stolen, however when I turned on the lights near the garage, they broke the slide hammer in the ignition and the car had to be towed to a body shop.
Aftermarket security system wiring varies by brand, type of car, and installer. As a result, a thief is less likely to be able to quickly disable the security system, and will be quicker to go elsewhere for an easier time. Those of you who park outside regularly would be well advised to supplement your factory security system with an aftermarket one. I haven't done it because my car is in my garage most of the time, and I take my chances when it isn't.
What I DO know is that the factory system for all third generation TLs is the same. Any thief armed with that knowledge can find the weak-spot and bypass the alarm on any 2004-2005 TL.
The problem is the same for ALL factory systems. My father had a 1991 Nissan Maxima, and one night I awoke to noise from the driveway. I looked out the window and found two a$$holes in the car, using a slide hammer to pop the ignition cylinder. They were able to bypass the security system by punching the drivers door (under the door handle and keyless entry buttons), and using a bent antenna to yank the keyless entry wires. That apparently was enough to keep the alarm silent and allow them entry to the car. They also popped the hood once they were in the car and removed the alarm system relay.
My scaring off the losers was the only reason the car didn't get stolen, however when I turned on the lights near the garage, they broke the slide hammer in the ignition and the car had to be towed to a body shop.
Aftermarket security system wiring varies by brand, type of car, and installer. As a result, a thief is less likely to be able to quickly disable the security system, and will be quicker to go elsewhere for an easier time. Those of you who park outside regularly would be well advised to supplement your factory security system with an aftermarket one. I haven't done it because my car is in my garage most of the time, and I take my chances when it isn't.
#55
Originally Posted by leeherman
... Those of you who park outside regularly would be well advised to supplement your factory security system with an aftermarket one. I haven't done it because my car is in my garage most of the time, and I take my chances when it isn't.
Well, if they are using a remote transmitter device, they can get you at the mall, at a game, parked at a friends house, etc. Someone posted that they were broken in at school and someone else said they were at the mall.... I don't feel safe at all.
#56
Supreme Underlord/Abyss
Originally Posted by sftroy
Well, if they are using a remote transmitter device, they can get you at the mall, at a game, parked at a friends house, etc. Someone posted that they were broken in at school and someone else said they were at the mall.... I don't feel safe at all.
I never added a second alarm to my Solara, but it's now an outdoor car since I bought the TL. I really should take my own advise and get a second security system with a remote starter.
Regards,
#57
Iro Ridg .308
Originally Posted by sftroy
Great . . . Bought my car at MH Acura ... and yes, I saw that they put the codes in the manual. The thief took all my manuals but they were found by a neighbor - not sure if the service manual was returned (my car is in service right now).
What aftermarket alarm did you buy? I'd love to discuss this with you . . I'll PM you with my contact info.
sftroy
What aftermarket alarm did you buy? I'd love to discuss this with you . . I'll PM you with my contact info.
sftroy
#58
Originally Posted by special-ed
Yeah, keep me in the loop on this one also. We maybe able to work out a discount since I've got 2 separate connections with their own shopd in the Audio/Alarm install world. One in Fremont and one up north by Santa Rosa.
Good news, the loaner TSX I'm driving didn't get broken into last night . . . grumble, grumble . . .
#59
Originally Posted by rbf351
yes thats what they are for, i've used on before, they are a bitch to use, but get the job done (fiance locked her keys on the car)
also when you press the unlock button on the TL, the "alarm" is disabled
so if they did use a slimjim to get into the car, all they had to do was press unlock, and the horn would have never gone off
also when you press the unlock button on the TL, the "alarm" is disabled
so if they did use a slimjim to get into the car, all they had to do was press unlock, and the horn would have never gone off
After the alarm is activated (it takes about 10 binks of the security light ~30 seconds) if you pull up on the door lock or press the unlock button on the door, the alarm WILL go off. Try it . . .
btw - just picked up my TL from the dealer today - my dealer, the district rep and ACS say I'm the only one who has complained about the alarm and they have no idea how the car keeps getting broken into. Others who have been broken into. please complain to ACS and your dealer . . .
#60
I was in the city for ONE night on the corner of bay and levensworth under a very bright street light and my car was broken into with no signs of forced entry (04 TL). I filed a police report.
I know one other kid who lives there and had his TSX broken into too also with no signs of forced entry.
My friend says that he's seen a lot more cops cruising the neighborhood now.
I was in a car security/audio store and was thinking about the clifford matrix 10.5 @ $450 installed but I have no idea what system is good for a good price.
anyone have any ideas?
I know one other kid who lives there and had his TSX broken into too also with no signs of forced entry.
My friend says that he's seen a lot more cops cruising the neighborhood now.
I was in a car security/audio store and was thinking about the clifford matrix 10.5 @ $450 installed but I have no idea what system is good for a good price.
anyone have any ideas?
#61
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wow, surprised to see my old thread brought back to life... but anyways it seems as of late i see more and more threads pop up about TLs getting broken into with no sign of forceful entry, its weird...
^i still havent added an aftermarket alarm so i wouldnt know anything about good prices...
^i still havent added an aftermarket alarm so i wouldnt know anything about good prices...
#63
Senior Moderator
If you google "Acura 'no signs of forced entry'" you will get 270 stories. Some are not about the car but include the Acura name in the report.
I'd say there's a general problem with the so-called security system.
I'd say there's a general problem with the so-called security system.
#64
Senior Moderator
I just got off the telephone with Acura Client Services. We discussed this situation with break-ins and no damage.
"David" said they were aware of it. They have received several reports recently and are paying attention.
He said further that thieves are able to buy "code grabbers" on the Internet that steal the code when you lock the car by pointing it at you. They then wait until you're away from the car and pop it open.
One of the fixes they are considering is a rolling code like a garage door opener.
I suggested they have their people monitor this site for good info. I always assumed they did.
Ah, so! Mr. Acura! Are you listening?
"David" said they were aware of it. They have received several reports recently and are paying attention.
He said further that thieves are able to buy "code grabbers" on the Internet that steal the code when you lock the car by pointing it at you. They then wait until you're away from the car and pop it open.
One of the fixes they are considering is a rolling code like a garage door opener.
I suggested they have their people monitor this site for good info. I always assumed they did.
Ah, so! Mr. Acura! Are you listening?
#65
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This thread is totally freaking me out. Well, I'm from East Bay, so perhaps we can find a shop to do a group buy on aftermarket alarm. What do you guys think?
Also, how about installing some types of immobilizer? I met one of my neighbors a year ago. He had a Ford Explorer. He had to push his cigarette button thing, whatever you call it, in order to start the car. If you try to start the car, the car will crank but it won't start. Basically, you can customize/hide your own switch, it could be your light switch or even your horn.
Also, how about installing some types of immobilizer? I met one of my neighbors a year ago. He had a Ford Explorer. He had to push his cigarette button thing, whatever you call it, in order to start the car. If you try to start the car, the car will crank but it won't start. Basically, you can customize/hide your own switch, it could be your light switch or even your horn.
#67
Originally Posted by Xpditor
I just got off the telephone with Acura Client Services. We discussed this situation with break-ins and no damage.
"David" said they were aware of it. They have received several reports recently and are paying attention.
He said further that thieves are able to buy "code grabbers" on the Internet that steal the code when you lock the car by pointing it at you. They then wait until you're away from the car and pop it open.
One of the fixes they are considering is a rolling code like a garage door opener.
I suggested they have their people monitor this site for good info. I always assumed they did.
Ah, so! Mr. Acura! Are you listening?
"David" said they were aware of it. They have received several reports recently and are paying attention.
He said further that thieves are able to buy "code grabbers" on the Internet that steal the code when you lock the car by pointing it at you. They then wait until you're away from the car and pop it open.
One of the fixes they are considering is a rolling code like a garage door opener.
I suggested they have their people monitor this site for good info. I always assumed they did.
Ah, so! Mr. Acura! Are you listening?
Assuming Acura does change to a rolling code (sarcasm on: probably will have 64k code; as if they never heard of a computer trying all possible codes and lockout the key fob code after 3 attempts. sarcasm off), how likely is Acura to retrofit 3rd Gen Acura’s with the new alarm system? My guess is none.
#68
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by Xpditor
I thought that was standard on all Fords: they don't start when you turn the key.
#71
Originally Posted by Actuary
So from now on I guess I will just lock the door with key instead of keyfob so no one can steal my code
1. With the keyfob.
2. With the key.
3. With the lock button on the door.
Number 1 is the only way to steal the code....use 2 or 3 and should be safe.
#72
I dunno. sfroy said somewhere (maybe in this thread) that he locked a loaner TSX with the key (didnt give him fob) and it also got broken into.
I with I can refer into the manual but they stole it. what is it, like 50 bucks? I wonder if someone has scans of it...
I with I can refer into the manual but they stole it. what is it, like 50 bucks? I wonder if someone has scans of it...
#73
Originally Posted by gyrus
I dunno. sfroy said somewhere (maybe in this thread) that he locked a loaner TSX with the key (didnt give him fob) and it also got broken into.
I with I can refer into the manual but they stole it. what is it, like 50 bucks? I wonder if someone has scans of it...
I with I can refer into the manual but they stole it. what is it, like 50 bucks? I wonder if someone has scans of it...
It was me. I had the Valet key only for a TSX loaner from Acura of Stevens Creek - NO REMOTE. The car was broken into within three days. They are NOT grabbing the code to get into the car - it is being done another way. Either generating lots of codes until the car opens or they are getting in thru the lock.
Acura could easily work with SF police to set up a sting to figure this out. Place a TL or TSX in Noe Valley and give it a week....
#74
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I am guessing there may be BOTH a Universal key and a Code-grabber technology at work here.
I am leaning more toward a code-grabber tech. Because my glove box was not touched, and I never given my valet key to anyone, there would have to be a third kind of key for TLs (can't start engine, can't open glove box, but can open main door). While not impossible, but not as likely (unless Acura IS that stupid to make a unversal door key)
I am leaning towards Code-grabber technology since we do know that TL doesn't use a rolling code remote so if anyone captured your "unlock" code they can get into your car.
Now assuming that's true, is it possible to change the code? I can use only the door lock to lock the car from now on, but that won't stop the guy who already got my "unlock" code and gotten into my car twice.
I am leaning more toward a code-grabber tech. Because my glove box was not touched, and I never given my valet key to anyone, there would have to be a third kind of key for TLs (can't start engine, can't open glove box, but can open main door). While not impossible, but not as likely (unless Acura IS that stupid to make a unversal door key)
I am leaning towards Code-grabber technology since we do know that TL doesn't use a rolling code remote so if anyone captured your "unlock" code they can get into your car.
Now assuming that's true, is it possible to change the code? I can use only the door lock to lock the car from now on, but that won't stop the guy who already got my "unlock" code and gotten into my car twice.
#75
Acs Says They Are Unware Of Any Alarm Problem...
So, I thought I would give ACS a call again about the breakins that we have been experiencing. I spoke with one of the front line people who answer the phone (not a case manager) - she stated that ACS is unaware of these breakins and that I was the first call...... hummmm, I've called twice before and there are others on this site that have said they've called.
So, I got the usual sort of response like we'll make note of that. I pressed her until she actually filed a case and gave me a number. Just like last time - wonder if anyone from ACS will call back . . .
If you have been broken into, PLEASE call ACS and complain nicely. More calls might get a quicker response out of them . . .
So, I got the usual sort of response like we'll make note of that. I pressed her until she actually filed a case and gave me a number. Just like last time - wonder if anyone from ACS will call back . . .
If you have been broken into, PLEASE call ACS and complain nicely. More calls might get a quicker response out of them . . .
#76
Originally Posted by Slava
I am guessing there may be BOTH a Universal key and a Code-grabber technology at work here.
I am leaning more toward a code-grabber tech. Because my glove box was not touched, and I never given my valet key to anyone, there would have to be a third kind of key for TLs (can't start engine, can't open glove box, but can open main door). While not impossible, but not as likely (unless Acura IS that stupid to make a unversal door key)
I am leaning towards Code-grabber technology since we do know that TL doesn't use a rolling code remote so if anyone captured your "unlock" code they can get into your car.
Now assuming that's true, is it possible to change the code? I can use only the door lock to lock the car from now on, but that won't stop the guy who already got my "unlock" code and gotten into my car twice.
I am leaning more toward a code-grabber tech. Because my glove box was not touched, and I never given my valet key to anyone, there would have to be a third kind of key for TLs (can't start engine, can't open glove box, but can open main door). While not impossible, but not as likely (unless Acura IS that stupid to make a unversal door key)
I am leaning towards Code-grabber technology since we do know that TL doesn't use a rolling code remote so if anyone captured your "unlock" code they can get into your car.
Now assuming that's true, is it possible to change the code? I can use only the door lock to lock the car from now on, but that won't stop the guy who already got my "unlock" code and gotten into my car twice.
Yes, you can change the code and program both remotes. I've done it three times . . .doesn't help. My car still got broken into.
#77
Aaaarrrggghhhh!
After reading this thread, I'm glad I live "out in the sticks" and have a garage (my garage has a rolling code on it at least). Good luck to those of you who live in the hot spots where this is happening!
#78
Or they could be using the Big Easy Lockout Tool
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...17779?v=glance
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...17779?v=glance
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