MT tranny fluid change

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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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MT tranny fluid change

I was wondering if the 3x3 was necessary for the manual transmission and if so can I use a differnt fluid for the 2 drains and because I want to put the GM syncromesh fluid in and the final fill bu I do not want to spend the money on the GM stuff for it to be in my transmission for 5 minutes
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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na no 3x3 for MT, only the AT. After the first time u change it out to the gm stuff, ur supose to change it out again after like 10k miles. So u ganna need extra quartz. Jus buy a case like i did no need to worry like 100 bucks
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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thats correct- auto transmission gets multiple drain and refill
Manual trans is straight drain and refill with some extra GM stuff added to it
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 08:44 PM
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I have an AT, I really can't believe I need 12qts of fluid. Thats according to the 3G Garage.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BMT62688
I was wondering if the 3x3 was necessary for the manual transmission and if so can I use a differnt fluid for the 2 drains and because I want to put the GM syncromesh fluid in and the final fill bu I do not want to spend the money on the GM stuff for it to be in my transmission for 5 minutes
There are plenty of write-ups about doing this, I have submitted my share, so I would suggest you read through them if you have any reservations, questions, or concerns. Basically, you want to have your car on a level footing when you drain your transmission, then refill with 2.3 quarts (2 quarts, 10 ounces) of fluid.

You needed do a 3x3 drain and file, not do you have to drain and fill soon again; unless the fluid is really dirty and full of debris (most of which will be synchronizer filings).
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Make sure you don't over tighten the drain plug!
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
There are plenty of write-ups about doing this, I have submitted my share, so I would suggest you read through them if you have any reservations, questions, or concerns. Basically, you want to have your car on a level footing when you drain your transmission, then refill with 2.3 quarts (2 quarts, 10 ounces) of fluid.

You needed do a 3x3 drain and file, not do you have to drain and fill soon again; unless the fluid is really dirty and full of debris (most of which will be synchronizer filings).
Please note, I made a serious typo here. I wrote,

"You needed do a 3x3 drain and file, not do you have to drain and fill soon again"

This should have been,

"You needn't do a 3x3 drain and fill, nor do you have to drain and fill soon again"


Sorry if I misled anyone.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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you don't have to do 3 by 3. Just when you are doing it make sure you can remove the fill bolt first. That bolt was a punk. Took two 200 lbs guys *me + friend + breaker bar to get it loose*
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
you don't have to do 3 by 3. Just when you are doing it make sure you can remove the fill bolt first. That bolt was a punk. Took two 200 lbs guys *me + friend + breaker bar to get it loose*
Stop eating twinkies
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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for tight bolts- prespray with wd or penetrating fluid of your choice- even lemon juice works!! Let it drip into the threads and sit for several hours
Then next day- turn bolt right as if to tighten- that often bust the corrossion loose!
Now turn left and see what happens- using 2 guys and a 4 foot bar is a good way to snap the bolt off inside the housing--not cool at all

ALWAYS get the fill bolt loose before the drain bolt- its really really hard to refill from a drain bolt with no filler opening

for A/T cars- you dont need to do the 3x3=12 qts UNLESS you added some other brand trans fluid, especially dextron3.. to the trans fluid- dex3 eats a TL trans in a hurry- so in that case you HAVE to push 12 qts thru in order to get all 7.3 of its normal capacity out and all honda fluid in- no more dex3,,but if you had to add fluid there is a leak issue that needs to be fixed before fluid change

Acura/Honda says a simple 3 qt drain and refill- thats all the auto trans will give up at one draining is 3.a tick qts- is all you need for normal maitenance and satisfy warranty

If doing the 3x3 you drive 5 minutes between drains using each gear in order to push old fluid towards the drain

truth be told- I just poured clean fork oil thru the motorcycle forks- I then took shocks completely apart and washed with carb cleaner inside-DOH!! lucky the fluid I used was an old bottle of no value to me--but it was a total waste of time- same as letting MT fluid flush UNLESS it was super bad- maybe water thru the vent??
NOTE: In cases of high water puddles where you know the car got good and wet- the M/T trans fluid is a good thing to check for `foaming` from water entry thru its overflow and air vent, and get it flushed at least once (not 3 times)
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bender
Stop eating twinkies
WTF? Can't Be 6'2 and be 200lbs? geee
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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Well I have changed the tranny fluid before and I read plenty of threads and I seen the 3x3 forthe auto and didn't know if t was necessary for the manual and as far as the fill bolt I had no problem getting it loose in fact I didn't even take the stock airbox of to get to it but thanks for the info so now I know that I'm doing it right
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BMT62688
Well I have changed the tranny fluid before and I read plenty of threads and I seen the 3x3 forthe auto and didn't know if t was necessary for the manual and as far as the fill bolt I had no problem getting it loose in fact I didn't even take the stock airbox of to get to it but thanks for the info so now I know that I'm doing it right
The Mt doesn't need to do 3x3 just change it every 30k or 20k if you drive it hard and a lot of stop and go. My car had 63k on it and it never had a MT oil change *I am 3rd owner* so yeah. I think that why it was soo hard to remove.
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