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Found this KBP type s with 111k on the clock. Would you guys just order touch up paint for the scratch by the gas cap? What would you all do about the dent in the drivers side rear fender? Thanks
I wouldn't recommend getting it repainted as IMO repainted body panels are never really that good. Never match perfectly, and clear coat texture is usually different than the rest of the OEM finish. Not only that, but for me personally when I see a used car with a repainted panel I avoid it.
I would simply use touchup paint and be done with it. No its not going to be perfect, but a heck of a lot better than a repainted vehicle and a heck of a lot cheaper too.
As for the dent I would ALWAYS recommend paintless dent repair (PDR), however that one is in a location where I am 99% sure PDR wont work. Reason being is a previous Type S I had had the exact same dent in the exact same spot and the guy said there is no way. Reason being is behind that spot is multiple layers of sheet metal and the PDR process involves working the dent out from behind. I guess it doesn't hurt to get another opinion, but thats just what I heard.
I bet even the nicest cars on Acurazine have some relative damage you don't see in pictures.
But of course if you want a perfect car, head to the body shop and get a quote to fix the fender dent. Could also be possible to PDR, or maybe not, just ask around. Scratch can be hidden with touch up paint.
A paintless dent repair shop should be able to get that dent out of the fender. I've seen worse than that fixed. For that scratch, a pro could touch that up no problem, again I've seen worse that that fixed.
Ok guys thanks for all your input. The seller is supposed to send pics of curb rash on the wheels later on. Around what price would you value this 08 with 111k miles. Says they have paperwork for the 100k service for the water pump, timing belt, etc.. All done at the Acura dealer.
I wouldn't recommend getting it repainted as IMO repainted body panels are never really that good. Never match perfectly, and clear coat texture is usually different than the rest of the OEM finish. Not only that, but for me personally when I see a used car with a repainted panel I avoid it.
I would simply use touchup paint and be done with it. No its not going to be perfect, but a heck of a lot better than a repainted vehicle and a heck of a lot cheaper too.
As for the dent I would ALWAYS recommend paintless dent repair (PDR), however that one is in a location where I am 99% sure PDR wont work. Reason being is a previous Type S I had had the exact same dent in the exact same spot and the guy said there is no way. Reason being is behind that spot is multiple layers of sheet metal and the PDR process involves working the dent out from behind. I guess it doesn't hurt to get another opinion, but thats just what I heard.
Get the touchup paint and call it a day :-)
it depends on the specific person painting and if he/she has the certain skills to do it correctly.
my car has been repainted in certain spots and retains the same color and NO "orange peel" in the clear coat texture...
so, yes. YOU can have it repainted without the ill effects of a bad paint job.
it depends on the specific person painting and if he/she has the certain skills to do it correctly.
my car has been repainted in certain spots and retains the same color and NO "orange peel" in the clear coat texture...
Yes, but that's partially the problem. If you have a fender repainted and has a perfectly smooth orange peel free suratev, then its not going to blend very well with the factory paint. Most manufacturers with some exceptions of very high end vehicles that are wet sanded from the factory all have orange peel. So IMO unless the shop can achieve the exact same orange peel texture as factory then it stands out to me. Some can do that I know.
last time I asked my body shop buddy if I can repaint a specific area his comment was "your kinda color is hard to match so we will have to paint the whole rear quarter pannel along with that beam that extended toward the front mirror which can easily be seen once you park under sunlight". He told me to keep it the way its now so no money to be wasted and got that color that doesn't match.
That scratch can be easily covered up with touchup paint. DON"T USE THE STUPID BRUSH!!!! Repainting the whole 1/4 panel and pillar would be a waste of money for such a small thing. Spend it on mod's instead!
Clean the scratch with ISO Alcohol well. Then take the bottle of touch up and open it. Place a tooth pick in 1/2 way to coat it with pain. Put the tip of the coated end on the scratch and capillary action will pull the paint into the scratch!
Let it dry and over the course of 2-3 days try to layer it up so the paint in the scratch is slightly higher than the paint around it.
Wait some more time for it to cure and get a sanding block and 3000 GRIT sandpaper. Lightly sand the higher paint on the scratch until it's level. Use only back and forth motions and don't press hard!!! The paint will look cloudy and it's fine! You need to use a fine polish to remove the cloudiness and to restore the gloss. It should be easy to do since we are using 3000 GRIT sandpaper.
Thanks again for the advice. One of you mentioned 10-11k for this car. KellyBlueBook has it going in good condition for slightly more than that, about 12.8k. Based on the information I have given in this thread, would that be a fair price or would would it be towards the 11k number?
Is it an auto or manual? That would factor in on price
As mentioned for the scratch, the toothpick idea is good, although the dealer touchup should come with a brush as well as a pen. The pen works well for thin scratches
Is it an auto or manual? That would factor in on price
As mentioned for the scratch, the toothpick idea is good, although the dealer touchup should come with a brush as well as a pen. The pen works well for thin scratches
I apologize, it's an auto. Not sure how much/if at all this contributes to price but it has Injen cold air intake, rear window wing, all interior lights upgraded to LED, yellow tinted fog lights..
aftermarket mods will decrease the value of the car, this is the point I try to get to people head. It might be something your taste but unfortunately not everyone has the same taste.
Dent Doctor. or reasonable facsimile. they can make it look like new, and never break the paint, ask me how i know, body shop wanted 650 plus paint two doors, what bs is that with a small dent, Dent Doctor, 139 all in, out the door in an hour, and i cannot see, nor can anyone else were the dent was.
Thanks again for the advice. One of you mentioned 10-11k for this car. KellyBlueBook has it going in good condition for slightly more than that, about 12.8k. Based on the information I have given in this thread, would that be a fair price or would would it be towards the 11k number?
I said 10-11 I think earlier, might have been 11-12. I consider it in fair condition due to the dent and scratch. Plus cars that are this old are rarely in good condition, even if the dealer thinks it is. I'd offer 10.5 and see where it goes. FYI, I sold my 08 base automatic for 12.8 and i would honestly say it was in good condition.
Carfax looks pretty good. Frequent oil changes, trans fluid changed every 35k or so miles, she is supposed to be sending me pictures of the receipts for the timing chain, water pump, etc..
Here is my next question; how do I go about negotiating price? Do I do it through the phone or wait until face to face contact is made? It is a 2 hour drive but my brother owns a plane so it would be around 40 minutes to fly to the nearby airport. Should I ask them their lowest price before I make the trip there?
If you don't ask before you go you should be prepared that they won't go lower. I would at least ask if the price is firm over the phone. If they say yes and you decide to go anyway you can always offer lower when you get there. The car I just bought a month ago, dealer sales manager tells me over the phone that the price was firm, they would go any lower. I flew to Texas, after test driving and inspecting the car I offer $1K lower, we settled at $500 below their "firm" price.