Just installed new spark plugs.
04-12-2008 | 09:34 AM
#41
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erick3: I needed to change spark plugs because my car was misfiring at 6000~ RPM. I went to Autozone and rented a codereader, it said misfire on cylinders 1 / 5.
After doing extensive Seafoam treatment with the gas / motor, it came down the spark plugs.
I did a few WOT runs the other day and what do you know ... no check engine lights
.
My car didn't necessarily idle rough, but it's noticeably smoother and it's much easier to start on colder mornings.
After doing extensive Seafoam treatment with the gas / motor, it came down the spark plugs.
I did a few WOT runs the other day and what do you know ... no check engine lights
.My car didn't necessarily idle rough, but it's noticeably smoother and it's much easier to start on colder mornings.
04-12-2008 | 09:39 AM
#42
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From: Dallas TX
Ill let you guys in on Tylers DIY. For now Ill post it here till we are able to edit the garage. When we are able to do it, we are going to need all yalls help.
This will be a 3G group effort to give the garage a makeover..
Heres the DIY that Tyler made.
This will be a 3G group effort to give the garage a makeover..
Heres the DIY that Tyler made.
Originally Posted by TylerT
Here's the DIY, look it over and see if you're confused about anything.
I tried making the instructions as thorough as possible .. so if you get lost anywhere and need clarification .. just PM me some suggestions and I'll fix it. Don't want anybody else getting confused.
Also, check each picture.
Enjoy:
DIY: 3G Garage; Changing your spark plugs!
Big thanks goes to 01tl4tl, he gave me some very important pointers and made this guide possible. Thanks.
Car undergoing maintenance:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MESS UP THIS DIY. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN WORK!
I haven't looked into a 3G TL-S engine bay yet, so I cannot 100% guarantee that this is the same procedure you would use.
You CANNOT use the same plugs as the base model. I believe there are seperate plugs for your TL-S.
Before proceeding and changing your spark plugs, I'd recommend giving your vehicle a Sea Foam treatment on the older plugs. You
can refer to this thread for full instructions:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172163
Before doing this, I would recommend doing this when the engine is cold. I did this with a hot engine and it was painful getting the 3 rear plugs out.
Work Area
1) Plugs to buy:
NGK Iridium Long Life [Park #: IZFR6K-11] (Recommended by most, very well priced)
The part # varies, ask and make sure you're getting the correct plugs.
Pulsar Pulse Plugs (Ultimate / Racing) [Part #: BE-1] (Very expensive plugs, results show 1mpg increase which may pay for themselves
over a years use.)
2) Where to buy them:
I bought mine at a local autoparts store because they were marginally cheaper than buying online. If you can
find better deals online, be my guest. I got my NGK Iridium IXs for $6.50 a piece at Kragens.
MOST IMPORTANTLY: IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THESE TOOLS / THE EQUIVALENT, PLEASE DO THIS JOB WITH A CORRECT
SET OF TOOLS. A JOB DONE RIGHT IS DONE WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS.
3) Tools you need:
1: 1/2 Ratchet (3/8 is recommended, although I used 1/2 for this job)
2: Spark plug socket (5/8)
3: 1/2 Extension (6")
4: Thread lubricant
5: 6mm Allen wrench
6: 1 x 10mm and 1 x 12mm sockets
7: (Not Pictured) Torque Wrench
Alright, you can do the 6 plugs in any order you'd like .. but I'd recommend taking care of 1 of the front plugs to get a feel for it,
then tackling the 3 rears, and then get done with 2 remaining in the front.
Tip for the rear plugs:
For the rear, put in one piece at a time when accessing the rear plugs (spark plug socket first, then extension, then the ratchet).
Tip for the front plugs:
You have to take off the Radiator overflow plastic tank in order to get the ignition coil out (Ignition coil furthest to the right).
Take off this bolt and you should be golden. When I got the bolt off, I did not disconnect the overflow tank. I left it sitting rather than
detaching it completely from the car.
I tried making this as thorough as possible, sorry for the long read! Here we go.
First, remove all the plastic covering in the engine bay, you need to remove this to have access to the Front Strut Tower / actual engine itself.
Now, remove the 6 x 12mm bolts that are holding the Front Strut Tower.
Why Remove the Front Strut Tower? It's difficult fitting your tools back there, compare:
With the Front Strut Tower
Without the Front Strut Tower:
This makes it much easier to access the rear plugs.
You aren't done removing the Front Strut Tower yet, you need to take off a few 10mm bolts.
Once you're done taking off the Front Strut Tower, you have a little more room to access the rear plugs.
Take your 6mm Allen wrench and take off the 6mm Allen wrench bolt holding on the ignition coil. Disconnect the wire attached to
the coil and you're ready to take it out.
Once you've taken out the ignition coil, you'll come to find a long brass like cylinder.
Take your 1/2" extension, followed by the 5/8" spark plug socket and put it into the cylinder. I put in the
1/2 ratchet in last considering you save space.
Once you loosen the spark plug, pull the old spark plug out of the cylinder and get your new spark plug ready. Remember, HANDLE each coil like it was fragile light bulb, drop it and replace it is the rule.
Take your new spark plug and give it a coating of thread lubricant, only lubricated the first 2 threads.
Lower the spark plug into it's destination with the socket / extension, but I would recommend hand tightening it by turning the top of
the extension. This ensures you do not crossthread or strip the new spark plug.
Torque specs are 13 pounds on these particular plugs. I made mine very snug.
If you do not have a torque wrench, check on the box the spark plugs came in, it should give you an accurate description on how tight you should make it.
Once your spark plug is in, put the ignition coil back in. Put the 6mm allen bolt back in and reconnect the wire.
Once you have all 6 done, make sure all connections are right and you don't have any tools under the hood. Triple check your work so nothing gets damaged.
Start the car and enjoy your new plugs.
I tried making the instructions as thorough as possible .. so if you get lost anywhere and need clarification .. just PM me some suggestions and I'll fix it. Don't want anybody else getting confused.
Also, check each picture.
Enjoy:
DIY: 3G Garage; Changing your spark plugs!
Big thanks goes to 01tl4tl, he gave me some very important pointers and made this guide possible. Thanks.
Car undergoing maintenance:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MESS UP THIS DIY. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN WORK!I haven't looked into a 3G TL-S engine bay yet, so I cannot 100% guarantee that this is the same procedure you would use.
You CANNOT use the same plugs as the base model. I believe there are seperate plugs for your TL-S.
Before proceeding and changing your spark plugs, I'd recommend giving your vehicle a Sea Foam treatment on the older plugs. You
can refer to this thread for full instructions:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172163
Before doing this, I would recommend doing this when the engine is cold. I did this with a hot engine and it was painful getting the 3 rear plugs out.
Work Area
1) Plugs to buy:
NGK Iridium Long Life [Park #: IZFR6K-11] (Recommended by most, very well priced)
The part # varies, ask and make sure you're getting the correct plugs.
Pulsar Pulse Plugs (Ultimate / Racing) [Part #: BE-1] (Very expensive plugs, results show 1mpg increase which may pay for themselves
over a years use.)
2) Where to buy them:
I bought mine at a local autoparts store because they were marginally cheaper than buying online. If you can
find better deals online, be my guest. I got my NGK Iridium IXs for $6.50 a piece at Kragens.
MOST IMPORTANTLY: IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THESE TOOLS / THE EQUIVALENT, PLEASE DO THIS JOB WITH A CORRECT SET OF TOOLS. A JOB DONE RIGHT IS DONE WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS.
3) Tools you need:
1: 1/2 Ratchet (3/8 is recommended, although I used 1/2 for this job)
2: Spark plug socket (5/8)
3: 1/2 Extension (6")
4: Thread lubricant
5: 6mm Allen wrench
6: 1 x 10mm and 1 x 12mm sockets
7: (Not Pictured) Torque Wrench
Alright, you can do the 6 plugs in any order you'd like .. but I'd recommend taking care of 1 of the front plugs to get a feel for it,
then tackling the 3 rears, and then get done with 2 remaining in the front.
Tip for the rear plugs:
For the rear, put in one piece at a time when accessing the rear plugs (spark plug socket first, then extension, then the ratchet).
Tip for the front plugs:
You have to take off the Radiator overflow plastic tank in order to get the ignition coil out (Ignition coil furthest to the right).
Take off this bolt and you should be golden. When I got the bolt off, I did not disconnect the overflow tank. I left it sitting rather than
detaching it completely from the car.
I tried making this as thorough as possible, sorry for the long read! Here we go
.First, remove all the plastic covering in the engine bay, you need to remove this to have access to the Front Strut Tower / actual engine itself.
Now, remove the 6 x 12mm bolts that are holding the Front Strut Tower.
Why Remove the Front Strut Tower? It's difficult fitting your tools back there, compare:
With the Front Strut Tower
Without the Front Strut Tower:
This makes it much easier to access the rear plugs.
You aren't done removing the Front Strut Tower yet, you need to take off a few 10mm bolts.
Once you're done taking off the Front Strut Tower, you have a little more room to access the rear plugs.
Take your 6mm Allen wrench and take off the 6mm Allen wrench bolt holding on the ignition coil. Disconnect the wire attached to
the coil and you're ready to take it out.
Once you've taken out the ignition coil, you'll come to find a long brass like cylinder.
Take your 1/2" extension, followed by the 5/8" spark plug socket and put it into the cylinder. I put in the
1/2 ratchet in last considering you save space.
Once you loosen the spark plug, pull the old spark plug out of the cylinder and get your new spark plug ready. Remember, HANDLE each coil like it was fragile light bulb, drop it and replace it is the rule.
Take your new spark plug and give it a coating of thread lubricant, only lubricated the first 2 threads.
Lower the spark plug into it's destination with the socket / extension, but I would recommend hand tightening it by turning the top of
the extension. This ensures you do not crossthread or strip the new spark plug.
Torque specs are 13 pounds on these particular plugs. I made mine very snug.
If you do not have a torque wrench, check on the box the spark plugs came in, it should give you an accurate description on how tight you should make it.
Once your spark plug is in, put the ignition coil back in. Put the 6mm allen bolt back in and reconnect the wire.
Once you have all 6 done, make sure all connections are right and you don't have any tools under the hood. Triple check your work so nothing gets damaged.
Start the car and enjoy your new plugs.
04-12-2008 | 11:08 AM
#47
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
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trance- Seafoam realy works!
ask MegaMod fsttyms1 who dismantled his engine at 200k miles and it was spotless inside- he also holds the fuel economy and parts longevity records in most gen2 catagories- including most replaced auto transmissions~ 5! Then he dropped in a CL motor and 6speed and his car now has over 250k miles and going strong
You dont HAVE to change the plugs after seafoam- well if they have 100k on them and are weak spark you will as they may get loaded/fouled
BUT--- if you are going to change the spark plugs now- with about 60K miles on a gen3, you are probably looking for best performance and fuel economy--
Running a good cleaner- like acura now says to do- is part of car maitenance.
The Shell tv commercials with gunge on the valve after 5000 miles- thats real.
Acura now says every 15k miles fuel induction cleaning service suggested.
Do it at home- save 100$ and improve the cars running.
Clean piston tops make better combustion- clean injectors atomize fuel MUCH better.
Clean oil passages flow better and removing old buildup from there is a really good idea on cars with VTEC- which operates by sensing oil pressure changes
Note: I am not affiliated with seafoam- one of the Mods put that on my avatar on April Fools, but I like it now~
ask MegaMod fsttyms1 who dismantled his engine at 200k miles and it was spotless inside- he also holds the fuel economy and parts longevity records in most gen2 catagories- including most replaced auto transmissions~ 5! Then he dropped in a CL motor and 6speed and his car now has over 250k miles and going strong
You dont HAVE to change the plugs after seafoam- well if they have 100k on them and are weak spark you will as they may get loaded/fouled
BUT--- if you are going to change the spark plugs now- with about 60K miles on a gen3, you are probably looking for best performance and fuel economy--
Running a good cleaner- like acura now says to do- is part of car maitenance.
The Shell tv commercials with gunge on the valve after 5000 miles- thats real.
Acura now says every 15k miles fuel induction cleaning service suggested.
Do it at home- save 100$ and improve the cars running.
Clean piston tops make better combustion- clean injectors atomize fuel MUCH better.
Clean oil passages flow better and removing old buildup from there is a really good idea on cars with VTEC- which operates by sensing oil pressure changes
Note: I am not affiliated with seafoam- one of the Mods put that on my avatar on April Fools, but I like it now~
04-12-2008 | 11:12 AM
#48
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
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Note 2
If using the DIY seafoam from gen2- skip to post #147 for correct pics of vac port at the throttle body
Maybe tyler wants to do another DIY pic for seafoam on a gen3
I am gen2 and some engine covers were added to yours-
If using the DIY seafoam from gen2- skip to post #147 for correct pics of vac port at the throttle body
Maybe tyler wants to do another DIY pic for seafoam on a gen3
I am gen2 and some engine covers were added to yours-
04-12-2008 | 11:36 AM
#52
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
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starting at 15k miles- just like Acura says.
Since most of us have over 50k, its due.
First timers should repeat in 2000 miles in the gas and intake manifold, to finish getting it really good.
Then every 15k miles/once a year is suggested for most, others do it more often if going on a trip or headed for the mountains or trackday fun.
Some like to do the oil once, others do every or every other oil change depending on how you drive.
Short-under 10 mile- cold engine drives are brutal on oil- condensation issues.
IMO that would be an example of- use every time in the oil
Try a can at a direct intake vac port today- Brake booster line is also useable
Spend 5-7 dollars, immediate change! then more improvement over the next few days.
Buy a 2nd can and put into 1/4 tank of gas, 2oz seafoam to 1 gal gas,
Thats Cleaning Strength for the injectors and piston tops~
15 dollars- thats less than 1/3 of a tank out west, and the seafoam has a 100% money back guarantee- right at the store return.
According to my parts places- they never had anyone ask for a refund
Since most of us have over 50k, its due.
First timers should repeat in 2000 miles in the gas and intake manifold, to finish getting it really good.
Then every 15k miles/once a year is suggested for most, others do it more often if going on a trip or headed for the mountains or trackday fun.
Some like to do the oil once, others do every or every other oil change depending on how you drive.
Short-under 10 mile- cold engine drives are brutal on oil- condensation issues.
IMO that would be an example of- use every time in the oil
Try a can at a direct intake vac port today- Brake booster line is also useable
Spend 5-7 dollars, immediate change! then more improvement over the next few days.
Buy a 2nd can and put into 1/4 tank of gas, 2oz seafoam to 1 gal gas,
Thats Cleaning Strength for the injectors and piston tops~
15 dollars- thats less than 1/3 of a tank out west, and the seafoam has a 100% money back guarantee- right at the store return.
According to my parts places- they never had anyone ask for a refund
04-12-2008 | 12:48 PM
#53
Something to note, the plugs should be replaced on a cold engine. It says right in the manual. I think they say below 38c. Because 13ft/lbs is very different across the temperature spectrum. If you torque to 13 while its kinda hot, when it's cold and the head contracts it could very well be 20+.
Trance, I think I might give seafoam a go in the next few weeks if I do, I will do a intensive DIY for 3G.
Trance, I think I might give seafoam a go in the next few weeks if I do, I will do a intensive DIY for 3G.
04-12-2008 | 01:11 PM
#54
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It is in the instructions for the plug DIY- just not clear at the start
ALWAYS change the spark plugs on cold engine ONLY
avoid burns and improper torque
More concerned about the plugs coming loose- especially in our hi-compression engines
ALWAYS change the spark plugs on cold engine ONLY
avoid burns and improper torque
More concerned about the plugs coming loose- especially in our hi-compression engines
04-12-2008 | 01:15 PM
#55
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 16,407
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The DIY looks good to me. I recommend making a new thread for this and then I'll put it in the 3G Garage.
Since we can't edit the first 2 posts in the 3G Garage thread, I added a third post and will put all additions and changes into that one and update the main part when the program is fixed, which should happen when our vBulletin is updated.
The data in the 3d post will still show up if you do a search of the garage for a specific topic.
Since we can't edit the first 2 posts in the 3G Garage thread, I added a third post and will put all additions and changes into that one and update the main part when the program is fixed, which should happen when our vBulletin is updated.
The data in the 3d post will still show up if you do a search of the garage for a specific topic.
04-12-2008 | 01:33 PM
#56
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by The Dougler
Something to note, the plugs should be replaced on a cold engine. It says right in the manual. I think they say below 38c. Because 13ft/lbs is very different across the temperature spectrum. If you torque to 13 while its kinda hot, when it's cold and the head contracts it could very well be 20+.
Trance, I think I might give seafoam a go in the next few weeks if I do, I will do a intensive DIY for 3G.
Trance, I think I might give seafoam a go in the next few weeks if I do, I will do a intensive DIY for 3G.
04-12-2008 | 02:13 PM
#57
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From: Raleigh, NC - USA
IIRC Seafoam has been around since the 1930/40's & was developed for outboards, I wonder how much the formula has changed?
We use to use a water/alcohol mix trickled in through the carburetor @ about 2,000RPM to clean the inside of the engine. It would kill the plugs so it was done as part of the a plug change cycle
BTW: What is the normal TL plug life?
We use to use a water/alcohol mix trickled in through the carburetor @ about 2,000RPM to clean the inside of the engine. It would kill the plugs so it was done as part of the a plug change cycle
BTW: What is the normal TL plug life?
04-12-2008 | 02:24 PM
#58
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book says 100k on normal service, BUT most humans dont qualify as normal according to the book.
Many ziners pull the plugs at 60k miles and decide its got enough wear to merit replacement. These are fine wire single electrode plugs with hi energy ignitions.
Denso last about 30k, NGK 60-100k
Many ziners pull the plugs at 60k miles and decide its got enough wear to merit replacement. These are fine wire single electrode plugs with hi energy ignitions.
Denso last about 30k, NGK 60-100k
04-12-2008 | 03:23 PM
#60
it would be sweet if someone had a fibre optic thing that they use in the movies/ hospitals to explore around corners and in veins and stuff to get a good look at the intake tract before and after a seafoam treatment.
04-12-2008 | 03:44 PM
#62
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see pulsestar.com for all the tech info- videos of spark in action etc.
It seems to condense the total duration of spark and ignite it slightly later, and with greater intensity than normal plugs. That would shove the piston down harder, with more force, creating more torque, and assumedly burn the fuel more thoroughly with the hotter spark.
With our coil on plug, hi energy ignition, the improvement is not going to be as large as say a V8 chevy would get with its basic electronic distributor and plug wire system. IMO
It seems to condense the total duration of spark and ignite it slightly later, and with greater intensity than normal plugs. That would shove the piston down harder, with more force, creating more torque, and assumedly burn the fuel more thoroughly with the hotter spark.
With our coil on plug, hi energy ignition, the improvement is not going to be as large as say a V8 chevy would get with its basic electronic distributor and plug wire system. IMO
04-12-2008 | 05:11 PM
#63
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From: UGA DAWGS COUNTRY
I tried to read this seafoam on the other thread but Where is this instruction?????
its all over the place in this sea foam thread that says do this do that
am i just not seeing this clear step by step instruction you keep refering too 01tl4tl?
thanks
its all over the place in this sea foam thread that says do this do that
am i just not seeing this clear step by step instruction you keep refering too 01tl4tl?
thanks
04-12-2008 | 07:12 PM
#64
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From: So.Cal SCV
In your DIY where you are removing the front strut tower, you say
"You aren't done removing the Front Strut Tower yet, you need to take off a few 10mm bolts."
Where are these bolts located? You may want to include a picture.
"You aren't done removing the Front Strut Tower yet, you need to take off a few 10mm bolts."
Where are these bolts located? You may want to include a picture.
04-12-2008 | 08:33 PM
#65
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I didn't feel the pictures were necessary .. you really can't miss them haha.
1 x 10mm bolt is holding onto the Fuse box and I don't quite remember the other one .. but they're in plain sight .. that's for sure.
1 x 10mm bolt is holding onto the Fuse box and I don't quite remember the other one .. but they're in plain sight .. that's for sure.
04-12-2008 | 09:27 PM
#66
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In the seafoam DIY the first 4 pages are wrong- the method is correct just the line used is wrong
Here is a quick DIY- remove main engine cover and find where throttle cables go to- in that area, opposite side of the assembly- front of the car side= is a vac line bigger than normal, and connects into the TB assembly as in post 147 of the DIY. There are more pics of right place father in the diy by another member with big arrows added to the pics
Its really simple to do if you look at the car and open at least one eye
Here is a quick DIY- remove main engine cover and find where throttle cables go to- in that area, opposite side of the assembly- front of the car side= is a vac line bigger than normal, and connects into the TB assembly as in post 147 of the DIY. There are more pics of right place father in the diy by another member with big arrows added to the pics
Its really simple to do if you look at the car and open at least one eye
04-12-2008 | 09:53 PM
#67
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From: Maryland
Originally Posted by don5504
ok back on topic. those pulsar plugs or something what's the theory behind them? sort of how an amp works in a system?
D
D
For your TL stick to either the OEM NGK platinums or the NGK Iridiums. I'll post a picture of NGK OEM plug that I replaced out of my wife's Honda Pilot at 105K miles. The gap was virtually identical to the replacement NGK. I almost put the Iridiums in but thought how well the OEM plugs did.
I would also avoid the Bosch Platinums for the TL, they work well in older Acura's and Honda but the very fine platinum center electrode of the Bosch has much less area of the center electrode of the NGK OEM. The larger center electrode area provides a better spark as the plug electrode wears.
04-12-2008 | 10:31 PM
#68
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From: Maryland
Here are two views of the NGK OEM plugs that came out of a 2003 Honda Pilot with 105K miles. No visible wear on the center or side electrode, NGK make great plugs. As someone else in this thread mentioned Denso's do not last as long, I've found that to be the case to for Japanese cars and motocycles.
Also note in the picture with the 12 plugs how sparingly I put anti-seize on the treads of the 6 new plugs. Not much is needed and do not put any on the first couple threads since the anti-seize lubricant and metals in it can cause pernament damage to the engines catalytic convertors.
Oddly enough the Iridium plugs from NGK are cheaper than the OEM despite being somewhat lower in the marketing tier at NGK's website. None the less either plug work well in J-series motors.
Also I mentioned Bosch Platinums in the previous message, one other Bosch problem is they sometimes cross-reference many heat ranges of into one plug. I had a bad mis-fire experience once in a Prelude I put Bosch Platinum single electrode plugs into. On the other hand different Bosch Platinum's worked great in our Integra and Legend.
Also note in the picture with the 12 plugs how sparingly I put anti-seize on the treads of the 6 new plugs. Not much is needed and do not put any on the first couple threads since the anti-seize lubricant and metals in it can cause pernament damage to the engines catalytic convertors.
Oddly enough the Iridium plugs from NGK are cheaper than the OEM despite being somewhat lower in the marketing tier at NGK's website. None the less either plug work well in J-series motors.
Also I mentioned Bosch Platinums in the previous message, one other Bosch problem is they sometimes cross-reference many heat ranges of into one plug. I had a bad mis-fire experience once in a Prelude I put Bosch Platinum single electrode plugs into. On the other hand different Bosch Platinum's worked great in our Integra and Legend.
04-13-2008 | 12:17 AM
#71
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dont sweat it tyler- based on the pics, you did not saturate the first threads - so no issue.
Thats why I say to run a strip up the side of the threads rather than around them, its just a lube for next time they need to be changed in another 60-100k miles.
Only NGK or Denso are approved plugs for the TL. The Iridium is a higher tech metal now mined in a cost effective manner that allows car plugs to made with it.
Been used in race cars and airplanes for years already.
Those used plugs look baked to me, I would replace. The only way to tell their efficiency is on a scope looking at the spark pulse.
Pulse plugs- maybe other cars get 8 hp but not us, and a few gen3 TL are testing them now with 1mpg gain results. Thats not hype- thats money back in your pocket- with rising gas prices, the payback time is much shorter than the 1 year average
If you have not tried a product in your TL- you have no standing- just opinion, in my opinion
Thats why I say to run a strip up the side of the threads rather than around them, its just a lube for next time they need to be changed in another 60-100k miles.
Only NGK or Denso are approved plugs for the TL. The Iridium is a higher tech metal now mined in a cost effective manner that allows car plugs to made with it.
Been used in race cars and airplanes for years already.
Those used plugs look baked to me, I would replace. The only way to tell their efficiency is on a scope looking at the spark pulse.
Pulse plugs- maybe other cars get 8 hp but not us, and a few gen3 TL are testing them now with 1mpg gain results. Thats not hype- thats money back in your pocket- with rising gas prices, the payback time is much shorter than the 1 year average
If you have not tried a product in your TL- you have no standing- just opinion, in my opinion
04-13-2008 | 09:00 AM
#73
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
(snip)
Running a good cleaner- like acura now says to do- is part of car maitenance.
The Shell tv commercials with gunge on the valve after 5000 miles- thats real.
Acura now says every 15k miles fuel induction cleaning service suggested. (snip)
Running a good cleaner- like acura now says to do- is part of car maitenance.
The Shell tv commercials with gunge on the valve after 5000 miles- thats real.
Acura now says every 15k miles fuel induction cleaning service suggested. (snip)
And, are they talking about adding Injector Cleaner to the gas tank?
Or are they recommending running a cleaner through the intake manifold?
It is my view that Acura has hundreds of engineers that design and upgrade one of the best internal combustion gasoline engines in the world -one that is known for its amazing longevity. So, when I hear that you can buy something for a few bucks that will make it better (from oils to Tornedos/Tubonators), I wonder why, if they really work, doesn't Acura build them in or include them in the recommended maintenance schedule?
There's a ton of after-market stuff out there. Autozone has at least two walls in every store full of them. And each has its own zealous believers.
They also have a pill that will add 3" to your dick in a week.
The medical profession has the Hippocratic Oath which includes, "First: Do no harm." (in so many Greek words) I try to apply that when attending to my TL.
I also subscribe to the maxim, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Therefor, I will reserve judgment on Sea Foam and dozens of other products, sometimes referred to derogatorily as "snake oil" until competent trials by independent testers confirms their benefits and that they do no harm in the process.
If such exists, please link us to it.
Acurazine, as an auto website, does not test nor endorse any of these products. We merely provide a forum for the exchange of information among the members.
04-13-2008 | 10:09 AM
#74
AZ Community Team
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 18,198
Likes: 4,308
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
...
Those used plugs look baked to me, I would replace. The only way to tell their efficiency is on a scope looking at the spark pulse.
Those used plugs look baked to me, I would replace. The only way to tell their efficiency is on a scope looking at the spark pulse.
So these plugs and engine are working extremely well. We take several trips to FL a year in the Pilot and noticed no difference in fuel economy after changing the plugs. After 105 miles though it was time to replace them. There are certain maintenance things on Honda/Acursa I'll do ahead of schedule (air filter, oil, ATF fluid, MTF fluid, brake fluid,...) but plugs I stick with the recommended schedule since they look excellent when I replace them at that point.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Pulse plugs- maybe other cars get 8 hp but not us, and a few gen3 TL are testing them now with 1mpg gain results. Thats not hype- thats money back in your pocket- with rising gas prices, the payback time is much shorter than the 1 year average
If you have not tried a product in your TL- you have no standing- just opinion, in my opinion
If you have not tried a product in your TL- you have no standing- just opinion, in my opinion
I've been working on engines since 14 so in 3+ decades (and three engineering degrees) I've developed a little wisdom (not much according to my wife) when someone claims they've achieved engineering eureka. I also have known some engineers who worked for GM, Ford and Audi and I know how effort, time and money they put into increasing power and fuel economy (esspecially for CAFE). So any miracle product I treat with highly reserved judgement.
SO yes, I haven't tried it but also I know how modern engines operate so I'm very skeptical.
BTW, I was curious and I checked the Pilot and TL do not have the same NGK (or Denso plug), same gap but different plug. Good guides here for spark plugs and spark plug analysis views.
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t..._technical.htm
04-13-2008 | 11:06 AM
#75
AZ Community Team
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 18,198
Likes: 4,308
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by erick3
YES PLEASE DO!!! I NEED TO DO THIS RIGHT NOW!!!...soo wait...your car had a hard time starting up in cold weather too?...idles rought?!??! I NEED NEW SPARK PLGUS/!??!?!
If you do foul the plugs, let the motor sit for 10 minutes and try again. Simply trying to start the engine also makes the problem worst. Older Acura/Honda ECU used to NOT inject fuel if the throttle was full while the engine was starting. I'll have to check the TL shop manual to see if that is still true. That way you could crank the engine with the gas pedal to the floor to allow just air into the engine to dry fouled plugs. It was actually a documented feature in the mid80's Honda/Acura owners manual I believe.
Once a plug has been badly fouled a good high speed trip can usually burn off any deposits from the fouling of unburned gas. Also do not glass-bead modern plugs it only scratches the ceramic/glass insulator causing more deposits to form.
04-13-2008 | 11:08 AM
#76
AZ Community Team
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 18,198
Likes: 4,308
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by TylerT
I pmed you the updated version of the DIY.
Check the PM history in the last message I sent you.
If not, I'll just make a new private message
.
Check the PM history in the last message I sent you.
If not, I'll just make a new private message
.
04-13-2008 | 02:42 PM
#77
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,137
Seafoam has been well tested for several decades and is not snake oil or
"Steve Martins penis enlargement cream"- simply apply and massage into the penis for 15 to 30 minutes...
The service acura dealers are now using is SEAFOAM in a 1 gallon gas container- hooked direct to the inlet fuel line to the engine, then the car is run at idle for 30 minutes, and then a blow out drive afterwards. We do it better by getting right at the pistons and valves via the intake manifold, and thru the gas tank to remove crud from injectors.
It really works- ask any ziner who has used it, better performance, smoother engine and beter mileage.
Better yet- go ask the acura dealer!!!
Crud builup is bad for combustion
It comes with a money back guarantee- how can you go wrong?
The tornado has conflict with vtec engines, but works great on my old carbed chevy V8 motor. My 10$ fuel line magnet may only be helpful when the gas sits in the tank a week or 2 not being driven, but it has CARB stamp meaning NO HARM was found from its use, CARB only checks for that- not improvements
It wont HURT to try a can and see for yourself. Many of the azinr MODS are on the stuff, that was good enough for me to use it, and years ago I used to operate one of the dealer type cleaning machines unaware it was `foam in the generic can marked cleaner'- add to 1 gal gas in machine,
check the seafoam can- it tells how to use in machine systems
"Steve Martins penis enlargement cream"- simply apply and massage into the penis for 15 to 30 minutes...
The service acura dealers are now using is SEAFOAM in a 1 gallon gas container- hooked direct to the inlet fuel line to the engine, then the car is run at idle for 30 minutes, and then a blow out drive afterwards. We do it better by getting right at the pistons and valves via the intake manifold, and thru the gas tank to remove crud from injectors.
It really works- ask any ziner who has used it, better performance, smoother engine and beter mileage.
Better yet- go ask the acura dealer!!!
Crud builup is bad for combustion
It comes with a money back guarantee- how can you go wrong?
The tornado has conflict with vtec engines, but works great on my old carbed chevy V8 motor. My 10$ fuel line magnet may only be helpful when the gas sits in the tank a week or 2 not being driven, but it has CARB stamp meaning NO HARM was found from its use, CARB only checks for that- not improvements
It wont HURT to try a can and see for yourself. Many of the azinr MODS are on the stuff, that was good enough for me to use it, and years ago I used to operate one of the dealer type cleaning machines unaware it was `foam in the generic can marked cleaner'- add to 1 gal gas in machine,
check the seafoam can- it tells how to use in machine systems
04-13-2008 | 07:49 PM
#78
Thread Starter
Turd Polisher
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 6,806
Likes: 3,027
From: San Diego
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Thanks for taking the time to write and post. Nice notes and graphics added to the pictures. I'll have to do the same for some TL maintenance procedure in the future!
04-13-2008 | 11:07 PM
#79
Senior Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,360
Likes: 66
From: Ft. Lauderdale
MmmK. You also have purchased a Tornado propeller thingee for under the TB/Carb and a fuel line magnet to align the gas molecules?
Did you know that Seafoam is pale oil, lighter fluid (naptha), and rubbing alcohol?
HERE IS A LINK to an Audi forum where technicians and members are discussing the merits of Seafoam.
We can see that it's use is controversial. Some mechanics suggest it could be harmful.
Because there are different opinions on Seafoam and other additives, we at Acurazine don't want to be taking sides one way or the other.
It's up to each member to do their due diligence and make up their own minds.
As the one mechanic said, "Why would you put it in a car that's running perfectly good?"
Or, as I put it in my previous post: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
That said, I appreciate you sharing your views and your experience which other members can take into consideration.
Did you know that Seafoam is pale oil, lighter fluid (naptha), and rubbing alcohol?
HERE IS A LINK to an Audi forum where technicians and members are discussing the merits of Seafoam.
We can see that it's use is controversial. Some mechanics suggest it could be harmful.
Because there are different opinions on Seafoam and other additives, we at Acurazine don't want to be taking sides one way or the other.
It's up to each member to do their due diligence and make up their own minds.
As the one mechanic said, "Why would you put it in a car that's running perfectly good?"
Or, as I put it in my previous post: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
That said, I appreciate you sharing your views and your experience which other members can take into consideration.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Seafoam has been well tested for several decades and is not snake oil or
"Steve Martins penis enlargement cream"- simply apply and massage into the penis for 15 to 30 minutes...
The service acura dealers are now using is SEAFOAM in a 1 gallon gas container- hooked direct to the inlet fuel line to the engine, then the car is run at idle for 30 minutes, and then a blow out drive afterwards. We do it better by getting right at the pistons and valves via the intake manifold, and thru the gas tank to remove crud from injectors.
It really works- ask any ziner who has used it, better performance, smoother engine and beter mileage.
Better yet- go ask the acura dealer!!!
Crud builup is bad for combustion
It comes with a money back guarantee- how can you go wrong?
The tornado has conflict with vtec engines, but works great on my old carbed chevy V8 motor. My 10$ fuel line magnet may only be helpful when the gas sits in the tank a week or 2 not being driven, but it has CARB stamp meaning NO HARM was found from its use, CARB only checks for that- not improvements
It wont HURT to try a can and see for yourself. Many of the azinr MODS are on the stuff, that was good enough for me to use it, and years ago I used to operate one of the dealer type cleaning machines unaware it was `foam in the generic can marked cleaner'- add to 1 gal gas in machine,
check the seafoam can- it tells how to use in machine systems
"Steve Martins penis enlargement cream"- simply apply and massage into the penis for 15 to 30 minutes...
The service acura dealers are now using is SEAFOAM in a 1 gallon gas container- hooked direct to the inlet fuel line to the engine, then the car is run at idle for 30 minutes, and then a blow out drive afterwards. We do it better by getting right at the pistons and valves via the intake manifold, and thru the gas tank to remove crud from injectors.
It really works- ask any ziner who has used it, better performance, smoother engine and beter mileage.
Better yet- go ask the acura dealer!!!
Crud builup is bad for combustion
It comes with a money back guarantee- how can you go wrong?
The tornado has conflict with vtec engines, but works great on my old carbed chevy V8 motor. My 10$ fuel line magnet may only be helpful when the gas sits in the tank a week or 2 not being driven, but it has CARB stamp meaning NO HARM was found from its use, CARB only checks for that- not improvements
It wont HURT to try a can and see for yourself. Many of the azinr MODS are on the stuff, that was good enough for me to use it, and years ago I used to operate one of the dealer type cleaning machines unaware it was `foam in the generic can marked cleaner'- add to 1 gal gas in machine,
check the seafoam can- it tells how to use in machine systems
04-14-2008 | 12:24 AM
#80
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,137
I just finished reading an article in MotorTrend magazine by Texaco/Chevron about carbon buildup and crud in the fuel injection system. The amount of cleaner additive added at the loading dock for the tanker truck is a `maitenance dose` that will slowly-eventually clean the systems, but they also say to use a bottle of Techroline to the gas tank to do a good job, then keep it clean with Tier1 gas.
They go on to state that keeping the valves and combustion chamber/piston top clean in tight clearance engines is extra important- a buildup of carbon could be enough to cause contact of parts not meant to impact each other~
Guess what cars have an `interferance engine`
It is MY OPINION that seafoam works-so do many other products.
I did not put that avatar up- a Mod playing April Fools joke did, but if you are concerned there is a company rep behind this writer, I will remove it.
My opinions are those of myself and in no way represent acurazine owners managers mods or members.
Everyone who wants to try sonething can- and report their results and opinions IMO
They go on to state that keeping the valves and combustion chamber/piston top clean in tight clearance engines is extra important- a buildup of carbon could be enough to cause contact of parts not meant to impact each other~
Guess what cars have an `interferance engine`
It is MY OPINION that seafoam works-so do many other products.
I did not put that avatar up- a Mod playing April Fools joke did, but if you are concerned there is a company rep behind this writer, I will remove it.
My opinions are those of myself and in no way represent acurazine owners managers mods or members.
Everyone who wants to try sonething can- and report their results and opinions IMO