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How much does it cost to convert my AT 2004 Acura TL to have the Brembo brakes?

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Old 06-27-2013, 06:48 PM
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How much does it cost to convert my AT 2004 Acura TL to have the Brembo brakes?

So I've come to the realization that my driving style requires better stronger break aka brembo breaks lol so I was wondering how much it would cost to convert my base model break system to have an all brembo break system? And what kind of things would I need to do it? If anyone knows where I can get a kit or something that would be awesome, I've been looking around everywhere. And if this post or a similar post was posted by someone else already I'm sorry for posting this but I just don't have the time to look it up due to the fact that I'm always working due to high medical reasons within the family so if u wanna come on my thread and start bitching me for not have done my own research I hope I rot in hell u soulless bastard.

To all who help me thank you very much for understanding my situation for not having the time to look up all the info, I pray the god blesses you all for being so kind as to take the time out of your day to help me -god bless
Old 06-27-2013, 06:54 PM
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the base brakes actually stop shorter than the brembos!
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:57 PM
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aftermarket BBK will cost less than retrofitting the Brembo's. heeltoe has some kits available. why do you think a BBK is necessary for you?
Old 06-27-2013, 07:06 PM
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apparently 800$

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/complete-type-s-brembo-setup-tl-1gentsx-7genaccord-890658/
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:22 PM
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^nice find!

but if i were going for a BBK, i would skip over the stock one and get an aftermarket one.
I believe I hate cars is running the XLR8 stoptech BBK. MUCH IMPROVEMENT over stock with sticky performance tires.
Old 06-27-2013, 08:44 PM
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^^^I though he also compared with the Rota BBK which was his previous BBK set up.
Old 06-27-2013, 08:49 PM
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I believe the Rota upset braking biased and didnt do so well
Old 06-28-2013, 02:53 PM
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Try the A-Spec brake (not break) pads. You may find they'll do the trick without spending the big $$$
.
.

Last edited by DMZ; 06-28-2013 at 02:55 PM.
Old 06-28-2013, 04:05 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/d-103-tl-s-brembo-swap-parts-list-716463/
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:42 PM
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The reason I need better breaks is because there's a lot of good windy roads where in live in Greatfalls, VA and Im also going through them at a pretty good speed and there also a ton of deer at night so I'm always having to consistanly stomp on my breaks, I also just like speeding everywhere. So I need something with a super strong bite and also something that's not going to warp easily either. I need something that'll still be breaking smoothly and strong even after month or too for me.
Old 06-28-2013, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
The reason I need better breaks is because there's a lot of good windy roads where in live in Greatfalls, VA and Im also going through them at a pretty good speed and there also a ton of deer at night so I'm always having to consistanly stomp on my breaks, I also just like speeding everywhere. So I need something with a super strong bite and also something that's not going to warp easily either. I need something that'll still be breaking smoothly and strong even after month or too for me.
It sounds like all of your needs could be met with just a good set of pads. It also sounds like you have some misconceptions about what the TL's Brembos (and most BBKs) actually do.

First, the only real benefit of big 4 piston calipers like Brembos is that they reduce the tendency for the brake brake fluid to boil, and cause brakes to fade or fail. This is useful on a race track, but your fluid is very unlikely to boil on the street, even under the conditions you describe.

Second, rotor warping is caused by a hot rotor being cooled too fast. This usually happens when you drive through water with hot brakes. It's the same as when you put a hot frying pan in a sink filled with cold water, and it warps. The rotors on the TLs with Brembos get just as hot as any other rotors, so they're just as prone to warping if you drive through a big puddle or something.

Third, BBKs don't stop any quicker than normal brakes. Stopping distance is determined by tires. You could have the strongest brakes in the world, but they're useless if they just lock the tires. The AT TL's brakes are certainly capable of locking the tires, so stronger brakes will not decrease your stopping distances.

Fourth, brake pads are the biggest influence on things like bite, brake feel and fade. A good set of performance brake pads will have much stronger "bite", reduced fade, and an overall better feel.

This is why I think your best bet would just be a good set of pads. Like others have said, try the A-Spec pads, or any of the plethora of aftermarket performance pads.

P.S. It's "brakes" not "breaks".

Last edited by splew; 06-28-2013 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:48 PM
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[QUOTE

P.S. It's "brakes" not "breaks".[/QUOTE]

Maybe he was talkin about Breakin 2, Electric Boogaloo!
Old 06-28-2013, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by splew
It sounds like all of your needs could be met with just a good set of pads. It also sounds like you have some misconceptions about what the TL's Brembos (and most BBKs) actually do.

First, the only real benefit of big 4 piston calipers like Brembos is that they reduce the tendency for the brake brake fluid to boil, and cause brakes to fade or fail. This is useful on a race track, but your fluid is very unlikely to boil on the street, even under the conditions you describe.

Second, rotor warping is caused by a hot rotor being cooled too fast. This usually happens when you drive through water with hot brakes. It's the same as when you put a hot frying pan in a sink filled with cold water, and it warps. The rotors on the TLs with Brembos get just as hot as any other rotors, so they're just as prone to warping if you drive through a big puddle or something.

Third, BBKs don't stop any quicker than normal brakes. Stopping distance is determined by tires. You could have the strongest brakes in the world, but they're useless if they just lock the tires. The AT TL's brakes are certainly capable of locking the tires, so stronger brakes will not decrease your stopping distances.

Fourth, brake pads are the biggest influence on things like bite, brake feel and fade. A good set of performance brake pads will have much stronger "bite", reduced fade, and an overall better feel.

This is why I think your best bet would just be a good set of pads. Like others have said, try the A-Spec pads, or any of the plethora of aftermarket performance pads.

P.S. It's "brakes" not "breaks".



Thank you I actually didn't know some of that and it really helped thank you. And sorry about the spelling I'm using my iPhone and it aurocorrects randomness
Old 06-28-2013, 07:27 PM
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Yes, life is expensive enough without buying something you don't need. You could drop a ton of money for new Brembo brakes and then after a nice heated session in some s-turns hit a puddle and warp them. That can happen with any brakes and Brembo's aren't exempt, as Splew said.
Old 06-28-2013, 07:42 PM
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What would you all guys recommend would work best for me? What combination of break pads and rotors would you say is the best? Links would be very much appreciated please and thank you guys for helping me so much
Old 06-28-2013, 09:27 PM
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ihc knows more about these cars than anyone i've ever encountered
Old 06-29-2013, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by TheLowLife
ihc knows more about these cars than anyone i've ever encountered
I was out of this one after reading the OP lol. But thanks. I've beat I the car pretty hard to get the objective numbers but it was a blast. I've been meaning to post an update to my Stoptech thread. I might buy several sets of rear pads with different friction coefficients, do the tests, swap them on the spot, and do it all over again. I'm curious if there's much to gain by fine tuning the bias and rear bite. I believe there's a little to gain with a rear pad with an aggressive initial bite, right before the weight transfers to the front. Time will tell.
Old 06-29-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
What would you all guys recommend would work best for me? What combination of break pads and rotors would you say is the best? Links would be very much appreciated please and thank you guys for helping me so much
Consider getting better tires as well to help achieve what you are looking for. And please don't kill yourself or any other innocent drivers you share the road with
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:35 PM
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rotors are typically warped by being very hot and then stopping for prolonged periods with the rotors held in place by the pads and the rotors are not allowed to cool evenly across all surfaces. its from uneven cooling. thats why after a heated session you dont stop or park until you let the rotors cool off. I have never seen or heard of anyone warping rotors by hitting a puddle. your moving and the rotors will cool evenly.
Old 06-29-2013, 10:07 PM
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Lazyass, I've changed the spelling in the title of your thread for you.....
Old 07-01-2013, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
rotors are typically warped by being very hot and then stopping for prolonged periods with the rotors held in place by the pads and the rotors are not allowed to cool evenly across all surfaces. its from uneven cooling. thats why after a heated session you dont stop or park until you let the rotors cool off. I have never seen or heard of anyone warping rotors by hitting a puddle. your moving and the rotors will cool evenly.
That makes sense. I have had them warp on me before.
Old 07-01-2013, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
rotors are typically warped by being very hot and then stopping for prolonged periods with the rotors held in place by the pads and the rotors are not allowed to cool evenly across all surfaces. its from uneven cooling. thats why after a heated session you dont stop or park until you let the rotors cool off. I have never seen or heard of anyone warping rotors by hitting a puddle. your moving and the rotors will cool evenly.

That may be another cause of warpage. But, the rapid cooling of a hot rotor by cold water causing it to warp, is definitely true. Heat makes metal expand,and if only a section of it is hit by cool water, you might get a warped rotor. Some people have even reported damage caused by constant car washes after a long drive.
Old 07-01-2013, 11:14 AM
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:42 PM
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If you're willing to spend that kind of money why not just upgrade to our XLR8 BBK by STOPTECH?

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-533322.aspx

Old 07-01-2013, 02:41 PM
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Excelerate, does your BBK fit over stock wheels? Just curious.
Old 07-01-2013, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Project_CLean
That may be another cause of warpage. But, the rapid cooling of a hot rotor by cold water causing it to warp, is definitely true. Heat makes metal expand,and if only a section of it is hit by cool water, you might get a warped rotor. Some people have even reported damage caused by constant car washes after a long drive.
they race cars in the rain. no one gets warped rotors. It would be impossible to quench the metal to the point of warping without quenching the entire rotor and then it would cool evenly. a rotor spinning thru a puddle is not cooling unevenly. you have to cool your brakes before stopping for prolonged periods or you will get a warped rotor
Old 07-01-2013, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by eyedrop
Excelerate, does your BBK fit over stock wheels? Just curious.
yes
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:11 AM
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Been saying it for years, rotors don't warp, it's just the transfer of the disc material to the rotor that causes the buildup and uneven surface.
Here's an unusual experience, our 2008 knock around car started with the pulsation and needed new pads, didn't have time to address the rotors, so installed new pads and after a period of time, no more pulsation.
Old 07-02-2013, 10:25 AM
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Okay back on topic please lol so like the original questions asked what brand of brake pads and rotors would u guys recommend for a good strong bite even after a while of aggressive driving? And also tires have been mentioned here, I currently have falken ziex tires that came with my car when I bought it. They've been pretty good to me, they have great grip and the rides pretty alright, but I wanna know what else is out there.

So what would u guys also recommend for a good all year around tire, the will claw into the road when I need it too, and also be a really good smooth ride? (Not trying to spend a whole lot of money) for something around the same price as the Falkens?
Old 07-02-2013, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
Been saying it for years, rotors don't warp, it's just the transfer of the disc material to the rotor that causes the buildup and uneven surface.
Here's an unusual experience, our 2008 knock around car started with the pulsation and needed new pads, didn't have time to address the rotors, so installed new pads and after a period of time, no more pulsation.
I mostly agree. They can warp but I would guess more than 80% of "warped" rotors are pad deposits or other issues. If I know mine are really hot and I'm forced to stop at a light ill set the ebrake to hold the car.
Old 07-02-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
Okay back on topic please lol so like the original questions asked what brand of brake pads and rotors would u guys recommend for a good strong bite even after a while of aggressive driving? And also tires have been mentioned here, I currently have falken ziex tires that came with my car when I bought it. They've been pretty good to me, they have great grip and the rides pretty alright, but I wanna know what else is out there.

So what would u guys also recommend for a good all year around tire, the will claw into the road when I need it too, and also be a really good smooth ride? (Not trying to spend a whole lot of money) for something around the same price as the Falkens?
You'll find the info much quicker with a search instead of having us feed it to you. Lots of opinions on pads and especially on tires. The pros and cons have been discussed at length and there's some good info out there. Instead of all of us debating it all over again you can read the opinions that have already been posted and decide for yourself what's best for you. I've actually tested my car with it's current tire and BBK and it's in the same league as the exotics in 60-0 stopping distance. The thread is in here, with Stoptech in the title.
Old 07-04-2013, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
You'll find the info much quicker with a search instead of having us feed it to you. Lots of opinions on pads and especially on tires. The pros and cons have been discussed at length and there's some good info out there. Instead of all of us debating it all over again you can read the opinions that have already been posted and decide for yourself what's best for you. I've actually tested my car with it's current tire and BBK and it's in the same league as the exotics in 60-0 stopping distance. The thread is in here, with Stoptech in the title.
What is your current set up? I don't know much at all about tires and breaks that's why I made this post. I can go on other sites and read about what ever but I I have no understanding of any of it how's that going to help me? Issue this thread so I can get good quality input from all you Experianced drivers who already know what the best set for someone who zips around places, hits the breaks hard a lot, makes turns fastish, and just has an over all aggressive driving style. So if people can recommend me what they personally think is the best tires and breaks for that, then that helps narrow things down for me and helps me understand what company's are the best what's style of breaks and tires are the best. I'm not some idiot kid who knows absolutely nothing and I'm not some idiot meat head whose a super reckless driver. I am actually a very responsible driver. I have to many people that love me to make me want to lose my life or someone else just for speeding. I know this may sound stupid but when I speed i speed responsibly. Places where I know no ones going to be walking in the streets or places I know there not a lot of traffic, or anything. I'm not as dumb as a lot of other kids who have this car. I love my car to death it's my baby and I'm trying to cherish every moment with her. Which is why I'd like some help from people who have the knowledge about this stuff already. So if u would like to give me a ton of info that's honestly amazing and thank u for taking the time to do so, other wise please don't comment on here. And this isn't directed at "I hate cars" this is for anyone who thinks I'm just some dumb idiot kid. My name in this account might be lazyass but that's because I like sleeping eating and because well every time I sign in it always says "welcome back lazyass" and I find it funny. So please if you guys wouldn't mind providing me with info that would be great.


Like what kind of tires ride smooth, have excellent stopping and turning ablilties
What kinda breaks last a good amount of time for an aggressive drive with low noises, and has a good bite, just anything to make my car a little more better please that's all I ask for. If u don't feel like writing names of things or what ever that's fine just paste a link that would also help greatly, it'll show me where the good prices are and what companies are reliable
Old 07-05-2013, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
they race cars in the rain. no one gets warped rotors. It would be impossible to quench the metal to the point of warping without quenching the entire rotor and then it would cool evenly. a rotor spinning thru a puddle is not cooling unevenly. you have to cool your brakes before stopping for prolonged periods or you will get a warped rotor
Hm,good point. I guess i was thinking about it the wrong way. Here's a good read for everyone else:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
Old 07-05-2013, 01:30 PM
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Better tires= shorter stopping distances.
Better brakes= less chance of fade after repeated hard stops.

With brakes, there will always be a tradeoff in noise, dust, and performance unless you go with a BBK.

Same with tires. Always a tradeoff between traction, noise, comfort, response, wear, etc.

Did you look for my Stoptech BBK review thread?
Old 07-06-2013, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Better tires= shorter stopping distances.
Better brakes= less chance of fade after repeated hard stops.

With brakes, there will always be a tradeoff in noise, dust, and performance unless you go with a BBK.

Same with tires. Always a tradeoff between traction, noise, comfort, response, wear, etc.

Did you look for my Stoptech BBK review thread?



I did try to find it but I couldn't, could u possible post a link?
With road noise that doesn't matter that much to me, I just don't want super squealing(that sound you brakes make when u need new ones)


And as far as tires go I just want a good mixture of the tire being able to grab the road when I'm making fast turns but also be pretty decently smooth, like I'm not looking for tires that'll make me seam like I'm floating on clouds am be able to tear up the road I know that's not going to be possible but just something for a pretty good ride u know?
Old 07-06-2013, 01:45 AM
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Tires are the single biggest improvement you can make in handling and stopping and that's including all suspension mods and a big brake kit. I would put a lot of time into picking the best tires.

The top 3 that come to mind are the Nitto NT05, Hankook RS3, and Dunlop Direzza Star Specs. The Hankooks offer the most traction and are the cheapest. They're supposedly ok in the rain and don't require a lot of warm up. These will be my next set of tires. The NT05 rides pretty good but has very sharp turn in and they're pretty quiet. I haven't run the Star Specs but they turn in similar lap times as the other two. They're really good in the rain and I hear they're a bit noisy.

None of those 3 are going to give you much more than 20,000 miles but they will give the absolute best performance for a tire that's capable of daily driving. They will put a nearly stock TL in the same league, at least in steady state cornering and stopping as some of the best sports cars. Tires will only give a subtle change in the way the car drives normally but when you start pushing the pace you'll find the limits are higher. Most people spend a fortune in suspension mods because they give the illusion of better handling and cheap out on the most important performance item, the tires.

When you upgrade brake pads to a more aggressive pad that won't fade as easy you usually have to give something up. Usually more dust or they wear the rotors quicker or they make noise, etc. The beauty of a big brake kit is the larger rotors run cooler so you don't have to run a really aggressive pad and all of the trade offs that come with them. Excelerate has the Stoptech 13" 4 piston kit for just a little over $1000 which is a bargain for a top notch kit. I've run a different BBK that actually hurt my stopping distances. The Stoptech kit retains brake bias and performs really well.

Honestly, if I wanted the best performance it would be the Hankooks and the Stoptech 13" BBK. They will transform the car for little money. Great traction and no brake fade and the only compromise in that combo is tire life. I also run 255/40/17 tires on stock rims. They perform better and IMO the TL looks a lot better with a wider tire.
Old 07-07-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Tires are the single biggest improvement you can make in handling and stopping and that's including all suspension mods and a big brake kit. I would put a lot of time into picking the best tires.

The top 3 that come to mind are the Nitto NT05, Hankook RS3, and Dunlop Direzza Star Specs. The Hankooks offer the most traction and are the cheapest. They're supposedly ok in the rain and don't require a lot of warm up. These will be my next set of tires. The NT05 rides pretty good but has very sharp turn in and they're pretty quiet. I haven't run the Star Specs but they turn in similar lap times as the other two. They're really good in the rain and I hear they're a bit noisy.

None of those 3 are going to give you much more than 20,000 miles but they will give the absolute best performance for a tire that's capable of daily driving. They will put a nearly stock TL in the same league, at least in steady state cornering and stopping as some of the best sports cars. Tires will only give a subtle change in the way the car drives normally but when you start pushing the pace you'll find the limits are higher. Most people spend a fortune in suspension mods because they give the illusion of better handling and cheap out on the most important performance item, the tires.

When you upgrade brake pads to a more aggressive pad that won't fade as easy you usually have to give something up. Usually more dust or they wear the rotors quicker or they make noise, etc. The beauty of a big brake kit is the larger rotors run cooler so you don't have to run a really aggressive pad and all of the trade offs that come with them. Excelerate has the Stoptech 13" 4 piston kit for just a little over $1000 which is a bargain for a top notch kit. I've run a different BBK that actually hurt my stopping distances. The Stoptech kit retains brake bias and performs really well.

Honestly, if I wanted the best performance it would be the Hankooks and the Stoptech 13" BBK. They will transform the car for little money. Great traction and no brake fade and the only compromise in that combo is tire life. I also run 255/40/17 tires on stock rims. They perform better and IMO the TL looks a lot better with a wider tire.


"I Hate Cars" thank you for putting all that together, it couldn't have been any better. I have taken a look at the hankook tires before and I do love their performance, my friend actually has them on his car. The only thing I forgot to mention is that i kinda need all season tires. I need something that'll handle some snow and rain because my mother drives a Mercedes and she uses my car whenever it snows and so I want her to be safe when ever she takes my car you know? I've looked at some tires, Advan s.4, sumitomo HTR A/S, General G-Max AS-03
Old 07-07-2013, 03:51 PM
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Understood. Most extreme summer tires will handle rain and water dispersion better than all seasons. They are however terrible in the snow and below freezing temps. I might have to go with the forum boner, the Conti DWS unless you can run a separate winter tire.
Old 07-07-2013, 05:21 PM
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The conti DW's were my favorite of late...dunlop direzzas were too though. Currently on Kumho Ecsta 4X and they seem to be up to the task of hard cornering, dealing with puddles and NOT losing grip upon acceleration or braking.
Old 07-07-2013, 05:36 PM
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tell her to drive the mercedes in the snow..........its from germany


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