Fixing the mirror burning
#1
Fixing the mirror burning
Ok so after a long winter I noticed that I must have left my mirror heater on too long. Have a little spot. I was looking at the switch that turns it on and off and its a simple push-on release-off. Duh right. But what if that switch was replaced with a momentary switch that activated a timer that automatically turned off the heater after a set time.
I found this website with a timer that will work. A long delay timer. Simple circuit that as built per the schematics turns off in 35 minutes. This is adjustable with resistors. The timer activates a relay to run the 12V for the heaters. I think it can be made without the second switch to turn off the timer/circuit.
Seems pretty straight forward right? Does anyone know what a safe time is for the heaters to be on? 30 minutes sound ok..
http://diy-electronics-projects.blog...lay-timer.html
I found this website with a timer that will work. A long delay timer. Simple circuit that as built per the schematics turns off in 35 minutes. This is adjustable with resistors. The timer activates a relay to run the 12V for the heaters. I think it can be made without the second switch to turn off the timer/circuit.
Seems pretty straight forward right? Does anyone know what a safe time is for the heaters to be on? 30 minutes sound ok..
http://diy-electronics-projects.blog...lay-timer.html
#2
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
I've never seen anyone try it out yet, so let us know if it works =P
I just replaced both my mirrors from the burn marks.
I just replaced both my mirrors from the burn marks.
#4
The DVD-A Script Guy
A relay timer should do the trick. Back in the day (15-20 yrs ago) I used to do all sorts of stuff like that (add on circuits) but being upside-down under the dash to install it all has gotten tough for my older bones.
#5
Oh definitely, there's no reason it they shouldnt have done it this way. I hope to have a prototype by monday or so and in the car by next week.
What do you think would be a good time to have it run?
What do you think would be a good time to have it run?
#6
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
^It's not like a lot of ice or snow truly gets clogged up there. Or if it does you should be clearing it BEFORE you drive so that you can use the mirrors.
So I'd say 5-10 min max...
So I'd say 5-10 min max...
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#9
I'm Craig
iTrader: (2)
35 minutes is nothing compared to what many drivers with the brown mirrors likely had it on for. I'm willing to bet there have been many cases where the driver will push the button in, forget about, and leave it on for days on end.
#12
#13
Yep that would be me lol. I'm thinking that 30 minutes is probably ok. I've had times when I was driving that I needed it on for at least 30 minutes due to heavy snowfall. Plus it'll be easier to build since I dont have to mod the original plans. But 15 would be just as easy. I wonder if I can make a variable timer. Push once for 15, twice for 30, 3 times off.. hmmm.
#15
ok I got most of the parts for the timer. But I couldnt find the right relay. If anyone knows where to get one, please let me know.
I need a SPDT ~3A 12V relay with a 200-300 ohm coil. This last part is the hard one to come by. Might have to modify to accept a different coil.
I need a SPDT ~3A 12V relay with a 200-300 ohm coil. This last part is the hard one to come by. Might have to modify to accept a different coil.
#16
Intermediate
#18
working on getting the unit together. Shouldnt be much longer before its ready to test.
One question. I was working on the car today and couldnt get one of the clips under the dash off to remove the lower dash. Any tips on how to get it to release? Its the clip on the left side of the steering column.
One question. I was working on the car today and couldnt get one of the clips under the dash off to remove the lower dash. Any tips on how to get it to release? Its the clip on the left side of the steering column.
#19
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
working on getting the unit together. Shouldnt be much longer before its ready to test.
One question. I was working on the car today and couldnt get one of the clips under the dash off to remove the lower dash. Any tips on how to get it to release? Its the clip on the left side of the steering column.
One question. I was working on the car today and couldnt get one of the clips under the dash off to remove the lower dash. Any tips on how to get it to release? Its the clip on the left side of the steering column.
#23
06 Anthracite TL
My solution is a little less elegant, but to me, much more effective. I put Multivex mirrors on both sides, and the view is fantastic as they eliminate blind spots. I installed them on my MR2 and motorcycle as well. I highly recommend them.
#24
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
lol never heard of glass rusting..lol
#25
"Advance"
iTrader: (1)
Yes it is indeed rust caused by the circuit. It usually starts at the bottom of the mirror. I did replaced both. It's cheap, and takes 2 minutes to replace with a flat head screw driver (yeah I had the manual
I think it's a little bit overkill to add a timer on the switch, compared to the time and cost of the replacement
just my 2cents
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think it's a little bit overkill to add a timer on the switch, compared to the time and cost of the replacement
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#26
Does this 'mirror burning' appear as coin-sized rust/brown spots underneath the side mirror surface?
I've never turned on my mirror heaters and yet I have these spots on my mirror. They seem to randomly appear after car washes.
I've never turned on my mirror heaters and yet I have these spots on my mirror. They seem to randomly appear after car washes.
#27
"Advance"
iTrader: (1)
^^I also never used the mirror heater, even if we have a lot of snow around here during winter and did get that "burn/rust" on both mirrors. I had to replace the driver mirror first 2 years ago, and the passenger last December.
Rust is caused by humidity/water with non stainless metal so I guess the heater is not the main CAUSE of the problem. Thats why I think that installing a timer might not prevent the issue...
Rust is caused by humidity/water with non stainless metal so I guess the heater is not the main CAUSE of the problem. Thats why I think that installing a timer might not prevent the issue...
#28
Yes it is indeed rust caused by the circuit. It usually starts at the bottom of the mirror. I did replaced both. It's cheap, and takes 2 minutes to replace with a flat head screw driver (yeah I had the manual
I think it's a little bit overkill to add a timer on the switch, compared to the time and cost of the replacement
just my 2cents
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think it's a little bit overkill to add a timer on the switch, compared to the time and cost of the replacement
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
On a side note, I realized I got the wrong transistor. This one is for a 6v input. Not helpful on a car. Back to the store at some point.
#30
Burning Brakes
^^I also never used the mirror heater, even if we have a lot of snow around here during winter and did get that "burn/rust" on both mirrors. I had to replace the driver mirror first 2 years ago, and the passenger last December.
Rust is caused by humidity/water with non stainless metal so I guess the heater is not the main CAUSE of the problem. Thats why I think that installing a timer might not prevent the issue...
Rust is caused by humidity/water with non stainless metal so I guess the heater is not the main CAUSE of the problem. Thats why I think that installing a timer might not prevent the issue...
#31
could there be two issues at play here. On my right mirror the white lettering that says things are closer, all turned brown... Dont know if rust did that. Looks like it got roasted.
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