So I'm strongly considering performing my first oil change on my car. I'm going to go with Redline Synthetic Oil so I went to JEG's website and typed in 2005 Acura TL and it recommended 5w30. I know the manual calls for 5w20 so I'm wondering which one should I go with? I'm also going to get a K&N oil filter, a 3.5 ton floor jack, and a pair of 3 ton jack stands. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated

 

Oh yea, I'm also going to get a new washer from the dealer for the drain bolt

 

5w30 is fine, the 5w20 is to get some CAFE certifcation.

 

Oil change takes like 2 seconds in this car its easy and straightforward just dont overtighten the drain bolt and the filter should be pretty much hand tight. No need to retighten with an oil filter tool.

 

My thoughts exactly.


C-004: DIY: Oil Change Checklist with Service Manual Scan
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80273
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139528 with pictures

 

Is one better than the other? For example, is 5w20 better for gas mileage and 5w30 better for performance?

 

I'm going to use a torque wrench for the drain bolt. Should I expect to be able to remove the old oil filter by hand? The one on their isn't oem so it probably wouldn't make sense to buy the honda oil filter tool

 

You should be able to remove it by hand.. but never know if a previous grease monkey magically put it on with an impact or something lol The oil viscosity doesn't have any effect on performance/gas mileage.

 

CAFE is about gas mileage. The whole Acura model range has to meet some EPA average for mileage. For them to squeeze out a little extra, they use 5W20. It's just a couple tenths of a mile per gallon, but average across all cars sold, those couple of tenths matter. For you and me, those couple of tenths of a mile per gallon are meaningless. That's the theory anyhow.


IMHO, 5W30 should provide marginally better protection with no noticable difference in gas mileage.

 

If so, drive a screw driver though the old filter and twist it off.

If you do your oil changes properly, you'll never have that problem again and a filter wrench would just sit in a drawer and gather dust.

 

Not highjacking the thread but are 2 Ton Jack/Jack stands ok for use on the TL? I am planning to get a set as well.

 

Yup, 2 ton equal 4000 lbs each, TL only weighs 3700# in total.

 

You will want to have a filter wrench handy and yes, it is common to use one to both remove the old filter and install the new one.

You should have a supply of drain plug washers handy for this job. The torque for the drain plug is 29 ft/lbs, or 360 in/lbs, and most definitely use that torque wrench.

Before removing the drain plug, remove the oil filler cap. This promotes a smooth flow of the oil oil into your oil drain pan.

When it comes time to remove the old filter, slip a 1-gallon heavy duty ZipLock bag up over the filter and pickup arm once the filter is loose enough to remove by hand, then finish removing it. This will keep the residual oil in the galleries leading from and to the filter from spilling on your suspension system, the floor of your work area, and you.

Make sure you spread a thin layer of oil on the new filter's rubber gasket and clean the pickup face with a paper towel - making certain that the old filter is not stuck to the pickup before you install the new filter. Tighten the new filter 3/4's of a turn.

Install 4 1/2 quarts (U.S. of course) of your new oil then when finished, start your engine, let the oil pressure light go out, and check for leaks - especially around the filter.

Reset your oil life display on your MID and you're done.

 

If this is your first time doing your OWN oil change, you going to need that tourque wrench to get the drain bolt off. it was pretty obvious that when the previous owner took mine in to get an oil change, the grease monkey used a friggin air gun to put it back on. took me about 10 minutes to get it off with a socket wrench. just fyi

 

You may want to replaced the drain plug with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-092-013.../dp/B000IZ48RS

It has it's pros and cons.

Pros: Never had to remove the drain plug and risk stripping the oil pan
Don't have to fight with the drain plug to get it off
Don't have to worry about replacing the washer
Not as messy

Cons: Slower draining
May not quite get all the oil drained, but close enough

If you order one, make sure you get the correct size. I find it makes the oil change a little easier. You can find them at O'Reillys. Just a suggestion. Have fun with your oil change.

 

Not a big fan of those but it works for different people and usually more convenient. I just dont do it so no one can fuck with my car.

 

That's a good point. Never thought of that.

 

What about the other part of the oil change that shops do: lube the chassis? is this necessary?

 

You know every time I do my oil change I'm looking for lube tits and can never find them. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this??

 

I disagree with using a filter wrench to install the new filter-- it should be hand tightened.
Otherwise, with everything else in SouthernBoy's post.
I've always been able to get the oil change bolts off cars with just the ratchet wrench, and maybe a small handle extension.

The torque wrench may be useful for measuring the amount to tighten the bolt back up if you're not used to using a wrench, although I've always tightened by feel using a ratchet.
I don't think grease fittings exist in most cars anymore; I thought most joints were sealed for life (or until boots rip... )

 

Yeah I heard newer car's joints were supposed to be sealed for life. It's always good to get another person's view though

 

I'll occasionally put a bit of grease on the latches and hinges. If you've got aftermarket sway bar bushings or end-links, they may have grease fittings.

 

Always good to use a rubber lube on all the rubber bushings under the car, front and rear as it helps to keep them pliable and not dry out. I use it at every oil change on all the cars:

http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/canadian/213

Although an oil filter wrench is not the norm when installing the filter, I mark the filter, turn by hand then give it a tweak with the wrench. Actually one of our cars is 1 full turn after the rubber seal makes contacts.

 

It matters not whether you hand tighten or use a filter wrench. The important thing is that you do not tighten more than the recommended 3/4's of a turn from distinct contact. I use a filter wrench because it is easier and lets me be more accurate. If one can do this free hand, then that's fine.

 

Well...Some things I might want to say take it or leave it...

1. NEVER use a torque wrench to break a bolt loose. Get a breaker bar or use a decent 1/2 in drive Ratchet.

2. I hand tighten my filters and I have had no issue...never had to use the tool.

3. Lubing the chassis I do not really do...What I do is I inspect for leaks and make sure balljoints and so on dont have ripped boots. I also check play in the front suspension.

Thats what I usually do for a simple oil change.

 

I was looking for drain pans and I came across this: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...d+extractor.do

What do you think?

 

I wouldn't. I'd rather drain from the bottom by gravity, than hope to suck everything out the top.

WallyWorld or any auto parts store will have a simple oil drain catch pan that'll hold ~7 qts for a few dollars. That plus a funnel.

Put your old/drained oil back into the now empty "new oil" container(s) and drop 'em off at you local oil recycle/collection place (for examply, my local Firestone takes used oil).

Something like this:

 

I ended up buying that same 7qt drain pan at the parts store today. I liked the idea of the extractor but it was a lot of money and draining it out from the bottom does seem like a more surefire way to get all of the oil out

 

Don't forget to warm up your engine a little (not to normal temperature) so that you get a better drain. What I do is start out cold, as on a weekend morning, and drive about 3/4's of a mile around my neighborhood. That warms the oil up some but does not make it hot. Don't want hot when you're doing an oil change.

 

Yeah, I was either going to drive it slowly around my neighborhood which is a little less than a mile, or if I was coming back from a longer drive, just let it cool off for roughly 10-15 minutes. I'm planning on doing it this weekend. I have everything I need except for the bolt washer, which I will pick up at the dealer

 

10 to 15 minutes after a longer drive ain't gonna cut it. You'll get burned. Best to wait a lot longer than that after a longer drive.

 

SB what about just letting it idle in the garage/driveway for a few minutes?

 

Good post, as i'm interested in doing same with my car. My 05 TL car has been to the dealership since new and now has 71K miles on it.

As I want to keep this car around for a while longer, any thoughts on moving to a synthetic? Is it too late, should I have done it earlier? Should I do a flush first and if so what's recommended?