DIY: Supercomputer pedal install 3G Garage #F113
#1
DIY: Supercomputer pedal install 3G Garage #F113
The install intructions posted in an old thread for installing the supercomputers racing pedals were ok, but I am quite detailed (ok a little anal) and found that I had questions still. It seems that others had the same questions as I got a lot of them from other forum members after my install.
Hopefully this will help those that are looking for some more detailed instructions. Hint, some of the pics have additional comments on the install.
Complete list of tools needed:
Dead Pedal:
==============================
I'll start with this one as it is the easiest install. The first thing I wanted to do was remove the plastic dead pedal and mount the aluminum pedal directly to the floor. Don't do it, just install it on the plastic dead pedal. Why? The two mounting holes on the right side of the aluminum pedal are above dead space, i.e. nothing to mount to. Resist the temptaion to remove the plastic dead pedal and check for yourself. Wish I hadn't done it as I slightly damaged the plastic clips on the OEM dead pedal that hold it to the floor.
Tools needed for Dead pedal Install:
Install instructions:
Pic 1: Dead pedal installed with comments on pic: (it's a little dirty, just drove 2000 miles)
Pic 2: Side view of dead pedal installed no comments:
Gas pedal:
==============================
This is the second easiest install. The person that put up the original install instructions mentioned mounting the aluminum pedal about 1/8" from the bottom of the EOM pedal. That is exactly what needs to be done. The back of the OEM pedal has a frame work pattern to make it rigid and there are 4 round circles on the back. Putting the aluminum pedal up 1/8" from the bottom puts the mounting holes dead center over the framework circles on the back of the OEM pedal allowing you to put on the washers and nuts on the mounting bolt. Pics of this are below.
Tools needed for gas pedal install:
Install instructions:
Pic 1: Removing pedal from floor and 1/8" gap
Pic 2: Back view of top half of gas pedal
Pic 3: Back view of bottom half of gas pedal
Brake pedal:
==============================
I saved the harder install explanation for last (I installed it first). It's harder as you are drilling through metal and not on a flat surface. One major piece of advice... Go to the hardware store and pick up a titanium coated 9/64" drill bit for $2.50. It will save you much time. I first tried drilling the hole in the brake mount metal with a cheap drill bit. It took forever to get the first hole drilled, which due to bit travel as it wouldn't cut into the metal the hole was in the wrong place and I had to put so much force behind it that I broke the bit on the second hole. I then bought the titanium coated bit and it cut throught the brake mount metal like butter.
Drilling the holes with a 9/64" bit give some extra play space for putting the bolts in, but not much. I was meticulous with the placement so it fit perfectly for me.
Tools needed for brake pedal install:
Install instructions:
Pic 1: Brake pedal hole layout
Pic 2: brake pedal before adding backing
Pic 3: First layer of foam added
Pic 4: Foam indentation pattern after 36 hours installed
Pic 5: Second layer of foam added
Pic 6: Final install side view of brake pedal
And here is the final product:
That's all. It's my first DIY to post so I hope it's helpful. Just ask if you have questions.
Hopefully this will help those that are looking for some more detailed instructions. Hint, some of the pics have additional comments on the install.
Complete list of tools needed:
Dead Pedal:
==============================
I'll start with this one as it is the easiest install. The first thing I wanted to do was remove the plastic dead pedal and mount the aluminum pedal directly to the floor. Don't do it, just install it on the plastic dead pedal. Why? The two mounting holes on the right side of the aluminum pedal are above dead space, i.e. nothing to mount to. Resist the temptaion to remove the plastic dead pedal and check for yourself. Wish I hadn't done it as I slightly damaged the plastic clips on the OEM dead pedal that hold it to the floor.
Tools needed for Dead pedal Install:
Install instructions:
Pic 1: Dead pedal installed with comments on pic: (it's a little dirty, just drove 2000 miles)
Pic 2: Side view of dead pedal installed no comments:
Gas pedal:
==============================
This is the second easiest install. The person that put up the original install instructions mentioned mounting the aluminum pedal about 1/8" from the bottom of the EOM pedal. That is exactly what needs to be done. The back of the OEM pedal has a frame work pattern to make it rigid and there are 4 round circles on the back. Putting the aluminum pedal up 1/8" from the bottom puts the mounting holes dead center over the framework circles on the back of the OEM pedal allowing you to put on the washers and nuts on the mounting bolt. Pics of this are below.
Tools needed for gas pedal install:
Install instructions:
Pic 1: Removing pedal from floor and 1/8" gap
Pic 2: Back view of top half of gas pedal
Pic 3: Back view of bottom half of gas pedal
Brake pedal:
==============================
I saved the harder install explanation for last (I installed it first). It's harder as you are drilling through metal and not on a flat surface. One major piece of advice... Go to the hardware store and pick up a titanium coated 9/64" drill bit for $2.50. It will save you much time. I first tried drilling the hole in the brake mount metal with a cheap drill bit. It took forever to get the first hole drilled, which due to bit travel as it wouldn't cut into the metal the hole was in the wrong place and I had to put so much force behind it that I broke the bit on the second hole. I then bought the titanium coated bit and it cut throught the brake mount metal like butter.
Drilling the holes with a 9/64" bit give some extra play space for putting the bolts in, but not much. I was meticulous with the placement so it fit perfectly for me.
Tools needed for brake pedal install:
Install instructions:
Pic 1: Brake pedal hole layout
Pic 2: brake pedal before adding backing
Pic 3: First layer of foam added
Pic 4: Foam indentation pattern after 36 hours installed
Pic 5: Second layer of foam added
Pic 6: Final install side view of brake pedal
And here is the final product:
That's all. It's my first DIY to post so I hope it's helpful. Just ask if you have questions.
The following 7 users liked this post by Buda:
AcRightLINY (06-18-2011),
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and 2 others liked this post.
#4
Great thread. Added to the 3G Garage.
#5
Nice install, I was wondering how you were going to provide backing for the brake pedal. In my case I used some bondo / West System to "fill" and smooth out the entire pedal before mounting up up the brake pedal. I wasn't too happy with the idea of using 2 sided tape or something similar (I have a thread on these boards complete with pics of the process I used)... but your solution is actually easier for most people than mine to do themselves! (and not permanent...mine is...but I figure the pedals are never coming out!).
#6
Here's how I solved the backing problem.
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/parting-out-my-car-have-some-parts-145008/
I did the same thing with the dead pedal, and quickly realized you don't want to install it into the carpet / metal..it really needs to go onto the existing plastic piece.
For the gas pedal I couldn't get the bottom of the pedal to come up...so I didn't, it was pretty easy to get it installed. The hardest part was the backing nuts...I took a kids glue stick..made my finger "sticky" and used it to hold the nut in place to get it started.
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/parting-out-my-car-have-some-parts-145008/
I did the same thing with the dead pedal, and quickly realized you don't want to install it into the carpet / metal..it really needs to go onto the existing plastic piece.
For the gas pedal I couldn't get the bottom of the pedal to come up...so I didn't, it was pretty easy to get it installed. The hardest part was the backing nuts...I took a kids glue stick..made my finger "sticky" and used it to hold the nut in place to get it started.
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#8
^-- Good luck on the install, let me know how it goes.
The pedals are much better than stock IMO. I am uber sensative to changes in the feel of my car and I could feel an immediate difference in the pedals. However after a couple of days it's feels as if it was always that way. The Brake pedal especially has great grip when braking. The gas pedal grips would great as well. I have driven it with damp shoe bottoms lately as well and had absolutely no problems except for getting them a little dirty. I have put over 2k on the car since I installed them. They also work great as a foot massager on long trips! I'm glad I got them they look and function great!
Oooh! Thanks. My first contribution to go to the garage. I'm pumped.
Yeah I wanted a non-permanant option that gave me flexibility yet was viable for the install. The soundproofing foam was perfect. I mailed some to enigmaos for his install, so he should be able to give additional feedback on it. I'm not sure if I had seen your DIY thread or not. I don't remember the one I read having the bondo. I'll have to give it a read.
Thanks for the comments on the DIY!
Originally Posted by aznbo187
Very nice DIY post. How is the feel compared to stock? Also, if you had a chance, how does the pedal feel with moist/wet shoe soles? Any slippage compared to stock?
Originally Posted by Ron A
Great thread. Added to the 3G Garage.
Originally Posted by gqchicago
Nice install, I was wondering how you were going to provide backing for the brake pedal. In my case I used some bondo / West System to "fill" and smooth out the entire pedal before mounting up up the brake pedal. I wasn't too happy with the idea of using 2 sided tape or something similar (I have a thread on these boards complete with pics of the process I used)... but your solution is actually easier for most people than mine to do themselves! (and not permanent...mine is...but I figure the pedals are never coming out!).
Thanks for the comments on the DIY!
#9
Kaa - Ching !!!
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Buda - Many many thanks for taking the time to write, pic and post this thread. I was hesitant about purchasing my pedals so I just decided to sit and wait until I was comfortable installing them myself. After reading your post I am............very well done.
I saved this entire thread as a text file so that when my pedals arrive I'll have this to follow............
#10
^-- Glad it helped out. I'm definitely enjoying mine. Let me know how the install goes and if I missed anything on the DIY. I tried to be very thorough, but I wrote it 2 weeks after I installed them due to thanksgiving.
If I get the door sills tomorrow that will be my project to tackle this weekend.
If I get the door sills tomorrow that will be my project to tackle this weekend.
#11
captain-- way to go. wonderful thread!! these are the directions that should come in the black acura pedal box!!! like others , bookmarked for reference. nice job and thanks for taking the time to make more acura drivers happy!
u the man!
u the man!
#12
million thanks Buda..i just bought these pedals this week and was looking for a nice install writeup but couldnt find one till i came across yours.boy what a detailed simple instructions are..i think Supercomputers owe you one! thanks again and happy holidays!
#13
Too Fast TOO FURIOUS
iTrader: (4)
well, I installed mine this afternoon. lovin' the pedals. lol
I used a 19.2v drill and broke four titanium drill bits while working on the brake pedal. don't know if they are real titanium or fake, but 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, and 1/8 all broke in half. it's either the position they were in or just not strong enough.
anyway, the brake pedal was the hardest as stated by buda. I used the foam he sent me, and it really did the trick. though, it's only been 3-4 hours. I will examine it in 24 and 48 hours to see if there is any sagging.
I used a 19.2v drill and broke four titanium drill bits while working on the brake pedal. don't know if they are real titanium or fake, but 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, and 1/8 all broke in half. it's either the position they were in or just not strong enough.
anyway, the brake pedal was the hardest as stated by buda. I used the foam he sent me, and it really did the trick. though, it's only been 3-4 hours. I will examine it in 24 and 48 hours to see if there is any sagging.
#15
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Found a place to get some of the foam guys https://www.coolgods.com it appears to be the same kind of foam used inside a PC tower to keep it quiet......LOL. I assume any dense foam will work but will let you know how this pd foam works.
Thansk for the DIY Buda!
Thansk for the DIY Buda!
#18
Like I said in the DIY, I didn't want to destroy the OEM rubber pedal. I wanted an alternative and the foam worked great. I do know that when you think of foam, you think of very squishy material and compresses down to nothing. The sound proofing foam is not that way. It is quite dense and resists well.
Cutting the rubber pedal is definitely an option, just not one I wanted to do.
Cutting the rubber pedal is definitely an option, just not one I wanted to do.
#19
Just finished installing my pedals. Like mentioned it was a pain driling the brake pedal. Instead of the foam I just layered up the heavy duty double sided foam tape on the actual brake pedal. In some areas the rubber pieces have recessed a little but not noticable enough.
#21
CTS-V Import Slayer
iTrader: (2)
Excellent instructions...and correct ones too. When I first saw the instructions on the other ones provided by someone here....I kind of twisted my head to the side and thought...why the hell did he remove that plastic dead pedal to install the alum one ....that seemed totally incorrect to me too at the time I saw it also...but I knew better than to correct the poster of the information so I never said a word. Good for you for providing the correct install instructions! I was afraid of the factor....
You just gotta wonder how many people took that advise and duped the same panel you spoke about too..... .
You just gotta wonder how many people took that advise and duped the same panel you spoke about too..... .
#22
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Yes, very good instructions - I followed them this weekend and got my pedals installed in about an hour or so. I would suggest one thing if you have trouble with the brake........
take the Supercomputer brake pedal apart - remove the rubber from the metal.....by doing this you can get a clear picture of where you are drilling by placing the metal up to the brake pedal and look though the other holes to see where you are drilling. (hope that makes sense).
take the Supercomputer brake pedal apart - remove the rubber from the metal.....by doing this you can get a clear picture of where you are drilling by placing the metal up to the brake pedal and look though the other holes to see where you are drilling. (hope that makes sense).
#24
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Your DIY write up was fantastic - it gave me the nerve I needed to do this myself. I'm not a "tool guy" but your instructions were really easy to follow.
BTW I have a big sheet of foam backing left if anyone needs some
BTW I have a big sheet of foam backing left if anyone needs some
#27
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Originally Posted by Buda
They look great!
Love the quartz interior w/ CF. I was going to get that on a RBP, but they sold it an hour before I got there.
Love the quartz interior w/ CF. I was going to get that on a RBP, but they sold it an hour before I got there.
I was looking at RBP too - they had one but it had a camel interior which I wasn't quite crazy about so I chose the ASM.
#28
Instructor
Ok, I just got my pedals in from Joshua from Excelerate which look really awesome and just what I was looking for. I follow the DIY for the dead pedal and the gas pedal. The bottom bolts where easy to put on. The top bolts for the gas pedal was a bitch. For about 15 I kept on trying to get the washer and nut on to the bolt but the washer would keep on falling out when I was trying to align it with the bolt. So, I gave up and just installed the nut in the 6mm socket I was using and lined it up with the bolt without using the washer. After that was said and done I tried to install the brake pedal but everytime I started to drill the hole for the bolt it would travel on me. I pushed down on the pedal just like the DIY said but the bit kept on traveling on me. Is there an easier way to drill the holes or maybe install the pedal without drilling the holes? I think I need some help on this one lOl... Anyone out there with some suggestions?
#29
Here are a few things to help.
1. Make sure you are using a good quality bit, the cheap ones I had at home didn't work. I had to get a titanium coated one. Some others also said that even this didn't work for them.
2. The brake pedal does take a lot of elbow grease as I was pushing REALLY hard.
3. You can try angling the drill at 90 degrees to the angled surface you are trying to drill through. Drill in just a little bit to get an indention into the metal. Then change the angle of the drill to the correct one to drill all the way through. That small drill in from the incorrect angle should give the drill bit something to grab onto. If you have a 1/4" thick piece of wood, then you could drill a hole in that to use as a guide as well. Just make sure you get the positioning right.
4. You can also take the brake pedal and choose a small bit that closely fits through the mounting holes on the new brake pedal. Hold the break pedal in place over the OEM bracket and use the mounting hole as a guide to put the bit through to help keep it from sliding around. Be careful not to widen the mounting holes on the new pedal.
The brake pedal is a major pain. If you can get someone to help by holding the pedal down with their foot or something this may help you get better leverage. I destroyed two bits doing mine before I got the hang of it.
1. Make sure you are using a good quality bit, the cheap ones I had at home didn't work. I had to get a titanium coated one. Some others also said that even this didn't work for them.
2. The brake pedal does take a lot of elbow grease as I was pushing REALLY hard.
3. You can try angling the drill at 90 degrees to the angled surface you are trying to drill through. Drill in just a little bit to get an indention into the metal. Then change the angle of the drill to the correct one to drill all the way through. That small drill in from the incorrect angle should give the drill bit something to grab onto. If you have a 1/4" thick piece of wood, then you could drill a hole in that to use as a guide as well. Just make sure you get the positioning right.
4. You can also take the brake pedal and choose a small bit that closely fits through the mounting holes on the new brake pedal. Hold the break pedal in place over the OEM bracket and use the mounting hole as a guide to put the bit through to help keep it from sliding around. Be careful not to widen the mounting holes on the new pedal.
The brake pedal is a major pain. If you can get someone to help by holding the pedal down with their foot or something this may help you get better leverage. I destroyed two bits doing mine before I got the hang of it.
#30
Instructor
Thanks Buda for the help but, I got tired of trying to drill holes in the metal brake pedal and went to sleep. To my surprise this morning I woke up with a bright idea. I'm not sure how reliable this is going to be and if I'm going to run into any issues later on. But, you know that rubber piece covering up the brake pedal. I took that off and laid the brake pedal I got from Joshua from Excelerate which did I tell you guys I think are really awesome! Well, I laid the new brake pedal over the factory rubber brake pedal I took off and used a drill and made holes in the rubber piece using the holes from the new brake pedals. I then ran the bolt through the holes I had drilled and put on the new washer and nut and tighten it up. The bolt were alittle too long to put the rubber piece back on the medal brake pedal bracket so what I did was tighten the nut down far enough where it's secure enough on the rubber piece and then I used a really good wire cutter and maybe you can use a bolt cutter but I cut off the excess bolt down to where the nut was. I then slide the rubber piece with the new brake pedals bolted on to it back on the medal brake bracket and it slide on easy as pie. When I get home I'll try to take a picture of what I did and post it. But it was so much easier then drilling holes in the metal brake bracket. Next on the list is modifying my new Greddy strut tower bar I just order from Excelerate to where I can bolt up to bolts to it other then just one.
#31
Alright guys, I was about to install my Supercomputers pedals after letting them sit in the box for nearly 2 months. Upon opening the box, I realized that the included screws there are only 8 of the Cap Screws with associated washers and nuts.
Question is: Does anyone know which size the screws for the dead pedals are? That way I can figure something out for those.
TIA
Daniel
__________________
Kansas City/Missouri Meet!!!
Question is: Does anyone know which size the screws for the dead pedals are? That way I can figure something out for those.
TIA
Daniel
__________________
Kansas City/Missouri Meet!!!
#35
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Just finished installing my pedals. Thanks to bforbrian for the deal, Buda for the DIY and Usalinh for the tip on the brake pedal. I did it the same way (attaching the Supercompter pedal to the old rubber avoiding the need to drill through the brake pedal) and it seems to have worked great. It feels sturdy and saved me a lot of work. Here are some pics to add to the DIY...
Supercomputer brake pedal after being attached to old rubber....
Underside where you can see the bolts that need to be cut down. I used a Dremel with a cutting disc and it went through the butter...
Here's a side shot of the brake pedal after installing...
The finished product (spring cleaning is coming)...
From a distance...
With my dirty all weather mats (I like the look of the silver on black)
Supercomputer brake pedal after being attached to old rubber....
Underside where you can see the bolts that need to be cut down. I used a Dremel with a cutting disc and it went through the butter...
Here's a side shot of the brake pedal after installing...
The finished product (spring cleaning is coming)...
From a distance...
With my dirty all weather mats (I like the look of the silver on black)
#36
Instructor
Damn Pikabb you beat me to the snap shots of the brake pedal install. Yeah, I've been too busy with work and too lazy by the time I get off work late at night. Nice snap shots though. Bolting them to the factory rubber piece was so much easier then trying to hold the drill bit steady and making sure the holes line up with pedals still. Glad I could contribute something to Acurazine finally.
#39
I have had mine on for 5 months (not as long as others here) but have not felt any loss in strength.
They really won't loosen unless you pull on them, then it may weaken the strength of the holes.
They really won't loosen unless you pull on them, then it may weaken the strength of the holes.