zookie

Just bought this:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-25750-Pi.../dp/B0002SQUTU

Its a dual piston compressor. Anyone know if it will work on the Brembos or if I should expect to put a piece of wood or metal in between?

Thanks!

NAiL05

I just use a screwdriver with a pad and lever it back...cheap easy and effective.

zookie

Really? Guy at dealer said I need to compress all pistons at the same time. Figures.

How are those ET500s? I'm keeping my factory rotors, but looking at those for my replacement pads. Those or the ET300s.

spinxt

That tool is total overkill...you can almost push them back in with your hand...if you need more leverage leave a pad on and use a C clamp.

I also have the ET500 pads...LOVE THEM...they are no cleaner than the stockers (dust), but I feel better stopping power. The stock pads only lasted about 15,000miles (but 5,000 of that was with a previous owner in stop-and-go traffic in New Jersey). My ET500s have been on for about 10K miles and look good. When I changed my pads, against recommendation, I had my Brembo rotors turned....DON'T do this...under very heavy breaking I can feel them warping...next time I'm getting some aftermarket slotted rotors.

myron

iTrader: (4)

yea I'm a total noob when it comes to cars and when I was changing my brakes I just used a screw driver and my hands. changed them out in 20min with no problems

01tl4tl

easy method is to open the bleeder screw and let some fluid out as you push the pistons in with an old pad- no pressure resistance
AND you dont shove crudded up fluid -backwashed- in the system and caliper- stirring it up so it can damage a rubber oring seal

Then after pad install- flush the entire brake fluid system- bleed order is LF driver front the clockwise LF RF RR LR
Brembo calipers bleeed outer nipple till all clean and clear- then the inner nipple till perfect fluid comes out

pimpin-tl

Also letting air in the system. Not a smart idea.

pimpin-tl

This is the tool I used on my Brembos with my 350Z. Worked like a champ. Came in very handy at track days since it was very fast to use.

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as...CTMP=1&LowCt=0

subinf

Screwdriver works fine for me

wrxyboy

iTrader: (2)

c-clamp and the old worn brake works for me.

BEAR-AvHistory

For Brembos a screwdriver for regular calipers a big C clamp.

CJ0920

Me too don't see the need to spend money on this clamp.

pimpin-tl

How do you press the pistons out both ways with a screw driver on the brembos? I don't see a easy way of doing that as I have tired with a c-clamp as well. Reason why I got this clamp. It pushes all 4 pistons in at the same time.

95oRANGEcRUSH

Flathead screwdriver and the old pads. No need for a tool.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

That tool is crazy complicated. I got a piston compressor from ebay made from 3/8" steel and a simple screw between two plates. It worked beautifully. And it will compress all 4 pistons in the brembo at the same time.

I paid about $10.

BEAR-AvHistory

You press in the pucks BEFORE you take out the old pads. Just wedge the screwdriver between the rotor & the pad then lever the pad into the pucks. Do both sides then lift the pads out by hand.

dave_ramkumar

iTrader: (5)

he lied

mmade22

Too many engineers in this thread... Since you are changing the pads, you can use the old ones to leverage the screwdriver in between the pad and the rotor. Compress the inside all the way back...Repeat on the outside...pull the two pins out and top clip....Put the new pads in and repeat. The brembos are the easiest brakes to do....

CSWBiggs

This thing is the shiznit...i had one and sold it when i totaled my s14...





http://www.girodisc.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=206

-Jason

zookie

Thanks everyone for the responses. Seems like a very easy job to do with or without the tool. Thing hasn't arrived yet but I'll probably knock it out tomorrow afternoon sometime when I put my winter wheels back on. Never bled brakes before so I have to find the bleeder screw.

Since I am only replacing the front pads do I *have* to bleed all four brakes or just can I do just the front two?

NAiL05

Bleeding is not necessary but if you want to I would recommend doing the whole system.

powerflow

Lol, read the guys post smarty pants. This is a very, very common method. Possibly letting a minute amount of air in at that step is absolutely moot since that step is followed by a fluid flush.

The fluid and crud escapes the system, then a flush replaces all the old fluid in the lines. Any air will be forced out when you bleed the system. The fluid right around the caliper piston tends to be the dirtiest, most contaminated fluid in the system.


Another for the ET500's here.

Man my Brembo pads dusted way more than my ET500. Maybe cause I have the slotted RB rotors or my rims are a lighter color I can judge the dust better. But I have noticed a significantly less amount of dust compaired to the Brembo set-up vs. the Racinbrake set-up. The ET500's do dust though, just not nearly as bad as the Brembo's.

As far as a special tool to compress these calipers, just a waste of money.
Only special piston tool I've needed, is for the piston types that screw in while they push inward. I use a very large channel locks on the old pads, and a rag to protect the paint on the caliper. Screw driver works fine too.

xmrgoodcatx

iTrader: (1)

I agree with 01tl4tl and powerflow

You should flush your entire system if you haven't done so in awhile meaning like in 2-3 years or 30k.

I took this from an article and it pretty much sums up everything I wanted to say

"Why is flushing important? Conventional glycol-based brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs water. This is important, in order to keep condensation in the brake system from causing corrosion. However, eventually, the fluid will absorb all the moisture it can hold, reaching its point of saturation. Several things can happen at this point. Unabsorbed moisture can begin to collect in the system, causing corrosion in critical areas; the water can cause seals to swell and deteriorate, further contaminating the fluid; and the boiling point of of the fluid drops beyond recommended levels. This means that under high-heat braking conditions, such as during hard braking or repeated brake application while descending a mountain, the fluid will start boiling sooner, which will reduce braking performance. The pedal can begin to feel spongy, and as braking efficiency drops, it takes longer to stop the vehicle.

How do you know when the system should be flushed? Most maintenance schedules that do specify it recommend changing the fluid every two years or 30,000 miles. If you live in an unusually humid climate, it's better to plan on doing it every year. However, your eyes can tell you when the time has come. Fresh brake fluid is transparent and has a slight amber-colored look. As the fluid absorbs moisture, it takes on a darker, cloudy appearnace, which tells you it needs changing. "