Donte99TL

Guys when I go on ebay and search 04 Acura TL, I see a lot of crossed drilled break rotors for sell. Are any of these worth a damn and if not do you know where I could get a good set.

I just bought some rims and you can total see the break rotor now due to the smaller spokes. So I was thinking of getting some nice crossed drilled rotors to make it look a little better. The stock ones are dog sh!t when it comes to looks.

New2004AcuraTLman

Don't you mean BRAKE rotors as opposed to BREAK rotors?. The former would mean you are looking for rotors that are already broken!

04acura tl

Post a link to the ones your looking at!! You can spell it anyway you want I knew what you were saying!! After all this is not the spelling (bored) ?!....,;'7

leeherman

If all you care about is looks then get drilled rotors. If you want to stop well, stick with what you've got.

All other things being equal, if you take metal out of your rotors they will cool less effectively and therefore fade more in hard braking. You're presumably not racing your car, so the few ounces of unsprung weight you save will not notably improve your performance.

Remember the ricer motto. If you want to go fast, get a wing. If you want to go faster get a BIGGER wing.



Regards,

IL_TL

Actually the cross drilled rotors (if all other things are equal) should stop better. The cross drilling allows the gasses that build up during the high heat of braking to esape in the holes. In addition the holes provide greater surface area for air to cool the rotors. Slotted rotors do not look as cool but provide much of the same benefit of cross-drilled rotors.

Donte99TL

Brain fart, but you get the point.

Donte99TL

brake rotors

PhilB

Search is your friend:

http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showt...=cross+drilled

-phil

Donte99TL

Does any one know of a good place to buy cross drilled rotors?

cvajs

if you want better rotors, get a set that is not drilled or slotted or anything like that. get a set that has swept venting vanes. swept venting vanes cool alot better than radial vented vanes. keeping your rotors cool is like adding a CAI for your engine.

then if you want to go the the extreme, take a set of swept venting vane rotors and have them cryogen'd.

with those and some ceramic pads you'll have one bad-ass set of front brakes.

Donte99TL

Thanks for the info. I am mostly doing this for looks though. I am not too concerned about getting better breaking. I don’t drive my car fast enough to warrant spending a lot of cash on brakes. I mean this is a family sedan and not a sports car.

But if the price difference is that much then I would go for the better brakes, wouldn’t hurt to have better brakes for a bit more cash.

So where is everyone getting their brake rotors from?

Donte99TL

Well I did a little research and found out that Stoptech makes a set for the 5at, $106 per rotor for the front and $75 per rotor for the rear. I am going to order some in the next couple of weeks and when I get them on I will take some pics.

If you guys want some here are the part numbers. He said that they where just entered into the data base and if you had a part number it would be easer to find.

Front rotor left
50-40046-201
$106

Front rotor right
50-40046-202
$106

Rear rotor left
50-40061-201
$75

Rear rotor right
50-40061-202
$75

Thanks everyone for your input and thanks to New2004acuratlman for the spelling corrections

Road Rage

Slotted rotors make more sense for your application. For street use, i would consider leaving the system stock - it is a SYSTEM, and willy-nilly plug and play often results in dimished performance. Most race systems using slots or holes (which are there more for gas escpae than cooling, as mentioned by tohers) also use a larger diameter rotor, to offset the loss of brake surface area, which is not as inconsequential as some seem to think. I plan to keep the rotors stock on both the TL and my S2000, but go to ones made better - especially where the rotor hats are plated, so one does not get that cruddy rusty look that both of my cars have.

Here is another tip, no matter what you do - apply a thin layer of aluminum-based anti-seize on the hat where it intersects the hub - it will prevent galling, or "freezing" to the hub - makes it a lot easier to remove when you least want it to be hard (late at night on a back road, or a city).

Here is my final tip - a "frozen" bub can easily be overcome by slightly loosening all the lug nuts as you would if you were preparing to change the tire, then moving about 5 mph, and hitting ythe brakes hard - the force will almost always break the bond between the huib and the rotor.

Now, about those reputation points......;-)

Regarding BREAK - I will give you a by on the spelling - any man who owns a TL, unless Mommy and Daddy took care of junior's needs, is obviously not a moron. Even though spelling and grammar seem to be optional in today's educational systems. You go, Man!!!

RR.

PhilB

I believe that should be BYE

-phil

Donte99TL

Is there a way to get rid of the cruddy rusty look on the hat by painting it with a high temp paint?

Road Rage

Yes, but you still would have the issue of the rust in the ventilation slots of the stock rotors. Some use cadmium or heavy zinc treatment, some use powder coating. here is an example of the latter for reference purposes when y'all go hunting:
http://marketplace.s2ki.com/s2ki/cus...&cat=16&page=1

Treblig

Is a group buy to lower the prices possible??

SpecialFX

Ummm, no.

That's "by" meaning "pass". Not "bye" meaning "see ya"

Ron A

If you are considering forming a Group Buy, certain procedures must be followed. Please see this link for further information. http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showp...64&postcount=7

willz822

I believe it's "bye" meaning "pass". Just like in football when teams get a "bye" week.

PhilB

When search is not your friend, then the dictionary is:

------------------

bye

\Bye\, n. 1. In various sports in which the contestants are drawn in pairs, the position or turn of one left with no opponent in consequence of an odd number being engaged; as, to draw a bye in a round of a tennis tournament.

2. (Golf) The hole or holes of a stipulated course remaining unplayed at the end of a match.


Source: Webster's Revised Unabridged Dictionary, © 1996, 1998 MICRA, Inc.

SpecialFX

Looking back at the American Heritage Dictionary, New College Edition it actually lists both spellings for all meanings shown above. Damned new English. Looks like everyone is correct. I'd only seen it as "by".

Withdrawn.

cM3go

ok so back on topic... for street application, slotted or AM stock > drilled ??? or slotted > drilled > AM stock or some other way around...


also I emailed stoptech, they will make brake rotors for the 6MT TL at the same price as the 5AT prices posted earlier