spinxt

I'm taking the rotors off my TL-S to get turned down...using the "search" function I found several threads on how to remove the screws (thanks). However, at the same time I found some conflicting information on if the screws need to be replaced.

I've been doing my own brakes for quite sometime, and in most cases retention screws, like the ones on my TL-S, are put in at the factory to keep the rotors stable during assembly. In the "real world" the rotors are held in place by the lug nuts.....I'm I correct in this assumption?

Thanks!!

Majofo

That's what I assume. I've never seen them on other rotors. I had to drill out all but two on all 4 rotors.. I even had a drive unit and it twisted 3 bits!!

I got replacements screws at Home Depot and used thread-lock after I removed the rotors. why? idk.. pain in the ass though.

ChucksCL-S

You don't need the screws.

nfnsquared

Yes, they're there to hold the rotors on before the wheels are added on the assembly line. Absolutely do not need to replace them, although you can if you want to. I think they're only $1-$2 each, but if you replace them, you'll just have to drill them out again!

I didn't replace them and I've only heard of one person on this board who did replace them. You'll be fine without them.

spinxt

Thanks guys!!!

powerflow

If you reuse the screws make sure you clean them up and use anti-seize. Impact drivers work great on removing these.

If you decide to not use them, a spare large nut, like an axle nut can be used with the lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you work.

Majofo

well.. the impact driver helped get only one of my screws out.. which tore through 3 bits. Have pics to prove it.. Drilled the rest out except for one other which came off with about 1/2 can of WD40.

so we have:

3 warped bits..
1/2 can WD40..
8 new screws..
anti-seize..
and a purple thumb..

- my thumb.. FTL

01tl4tl

carbide tip drill bits cut thru in 20- seconds

Use antisieze where the rotor slides onto the hub

Flush your brake fluid!!!!!

Bearcat94

Next time (if there is a next time) give the screws one or two good whacks in the "tight" direction then reverse the Impact Driver and hit them in the "loose" direction.

That whack in the tight direction will help break the threads free.

Of the 4 rotors, only the one where I did NOT go in the tight direction first was a problem - 1 broken bit and 1 (or 2?) drilled out screws. The other three were cake.

(Got that tip from Tom, btw).

Trew

iTrader: (1)

I give the screw head a whack with the ball side of a ball pein hammer up against it, and another hammer to hit the flat side of the ball pein hammer. Usually 1 or 2 whacks will free up the threads and not cause damage to the phillips slot on the screw.

Majofo

yeah.. I did that first before going out and buying a drive unit. When I bought the TL the rotors were warped so I guess the high heat must have really gotten those suckers.

Majofo

Funny you say that because I think that may have worked on the one I removed. I didn't know which direction it was turning and I think I hit it to tighten before I figured it out. I'm sure the bits that came with the drive unit weren't the best but they were thicker than my large head phillips.

BEAR-AvHistory

+1