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Hello all I’m new to the TL life and I purchased a fixer upper for cheap a 2007 Acura TL type S automatic and I took it to get checked and got a couple issues I need advice on, the car has mods on it such as a
cold air intake brand unknown
jv6 high flow cat
jc6 j pipe
and a j37 manifold and throttle body
no tune so will I need to get it tune? If so any etune or tuner in the Nc/Sc area is this a must right now?
i also have the below issue I was told to replace ball joints, motor mounts and sway bar bushing, as well as brake flush and transmission flush , also was told there’s a small leak on rack and pinion and transmission cooler line? Sorry for the question overload!
I attached pictures. I don’t want to cheap out but I am on a budget so what should I prioritize and will some of these issue be done myself im not super mechanically inclined but I can YouTube videos and follow steps lol. Also do I need to stick to OEM or can I buy some stuff off RockAuto?
thank you in advance!
Codes on car Transmission fluid idk when it was changed if ever Brake fluid Ball joints I think those upper control arms are aftermarket not sure Bushings Code Bushing Recommended mounts Bushings Transmission cooler line Rack and pinion
If you able to do most of the work yourself, even OEM part will cost you a good chunk of $$$. OEM steering rack is about $950 just the rack no inner/outer tire rod included, the leak is pretty common for a high mileage neglected maint TL. Rear sway bar bushing are pretty easy to replace and the bushing are cheap.
Things that make me cringe most is the transmission fluid color. They suppose to be dark pink when new (similar to cranberry juice) and get darker as they age (kinda like used motor oil).
The upper arms up front are aftermarket, Skunk 2 is the brand ( can prob get new ball joints if needed), to allow for camber adjustment. Is the car lowered? I can’t believe the front sway bar rust/bushing missing! 😳 Was this a northern car?
Heeltoeautomotive would be where I’d source replacement upper ball joints if needed.
You could tune it with Hondata, and there are ways to e-tune, but I’d worry about that after maintenance. We can help point you to someone who could tune it….
If you able to do most of the work yourself, even OEM part will cost you a good chunk of $$$. OEM steering rack is about $950 just the rack no inner/outer tire rod included, the leak is pretty common for a high mileage neglected maint TL. Rear sway bar bushing are pretty easy to replace and the bushing are cheap.
Things that make me cringe most is the transmission fluid color. They suppose to be dark pink when new (similar to cranberry juice) and get darker as they age (kinda like used motor oil).
OP I hope you get a good deal out from this car
5k for the car idk if it’s a good deal but I’ll get her right I’m scared to do a 3x3 transmission flush now because i heard if it hasn’t been done that it can mess up the trans? And nice I’ll likely tackle the bushing myself then im just tryna see what all I can do myself and see what I should pay to have done
The upper arms up front are aftermarket, Skunk 2 is the brand ( can prob get new ball joints if needed), to allow for camber adjustment. Is the car lowered? I can’t believe the front sway bar rust/bushing missing! 😳 Was this a northern car?
Heeltoeautomotive would be where I’d source replacement upper ball joints if needed.
You could tune it with Hondata, and there are ways to e-tune, but I’d worry about that after maintenance. We can help point you to someone who could tune it….
I seen that shrunk2 does sell just the ball joints you think I should just do both sides? And no the car isn’t lowered maybe it was but not currently and it was a up north car ! Think I should just try to do the whole sway bar ? Or just bushing?
i def want to tune it but wanna get the car running right and Healy first for sure! When the time comes I’d def appreciate getting pointed in the right direction!
unless you are lowered no need for aftermarket adjustable upper arm, hell I am on coil and still have OEM upper arm. As far as the trans I would do a drain and fill and drive it for 5k miles before you do another drain and fill.
I seen that shrunk2 does sell just the ball joints you think I should just do both sides? And no the car isn’t lowered maybe it was but not currently and it was a up north car ! Think I should just try to do the whole sway bar ? Or just bushing?
i def want to tune it but wanna get the car running right and Healy first for sure! When the time comes I’d def appreciate getting pointed in the right direction!
Depending on if you plan to lower it in the future, you could just replace the ball joints. If no plan to lower, You get just go back to oem upper arms. (I have a set that only has ~45K miles on them). For the front sway bar, I would just replace the bushings, removing and replacing the front sway bar requires dropping the front subframe, hopefully you or a mechanic can replace the bushings without having to drop the front subframe. (Could always rough up the area where there is rust, and spray it with some black paint).
unless you are lowered no need for aftermarket adjustable upper arm, hell I am on coil and still have OEM upper arm. As far as the trans I would do a drain and fill and drive it for 5k miles before you do another drain and fill.
so just one 3 qt drain one 3 qt fill then drive then do the other two after 5k?
Depending on if you plan to lower it in the future, you could just replace the ball joints. If no plan to lower, You get just go back to oem upper arms. (I have a set that only has ~45K miles on them). For the front sway bar, I would just replace the bushings, removing and replacing the front sway bar requires dropping the front subframe, hopefully you or a mechanic can replace the bushings without having to drop the front subframe. (Could always rough up the area where there is rust, and spray it with some black paint).
how much you asking for the upper control arm? I’m trying to save where I can but I’m not sure if I’m going lower I might but further down the line of course!
will do I’m trying to find the procedure for it on the 3rd gen I only found 2nd gen procedure is it the same??? Or do you have the link???
My process is do a 1X3, drive around for 10-15 minutes going thru all gears, do it again, and one more time with a new crush washer and filter. Then check the fluid level and top off with about 1/4 qt. I do a 1X3 every other oil change. Zero trans failures with well over 200K on the clock. IMO, the best thing you can do for your TL.
My process is do a 1X3, drive around for 10-15 minutes going thru all gears, do it again, and one more time with a new crush washer and filter. Then check the fluid level and top off with about 1/4 qt. I do a 1X3 every other oil change. Zero trans failures with well over 200K on the clock. IMO, the best thing you can do for your TL.
what fluid did you use and from where? And what crush washer and filter???
what fluid did you use and from where? And what crush washer and filter???
thanks also for the help
Oops on the filter--I was thinking oil change at the same time, which you might want to do, anyway . Doh.
But there's a crush washer on the trans drain bolt that should be replaced. Most people don't do it.
OEM ATF is recommended.
so just one 3 qt drain one 3 qt fill then drive then do the other two after 5k?
Yes.
You can buy the fluid at any Honda/Acura dealer, make sure its Honda ATF DW1. Piece of advice, before you drain the fluid make sure you are able to open the fill bolt.
Oops on the filter--I was thinking oil change at the same time, which you might want to do, anyway . Doh.
But there's a crush washer on the trans drain bolt that should be replaced. Most people don't do it.
OEM ATF is recommended.
got you! But just the washer on the last fill right? And I’m guessing I can just ask Honda or acura for the drain bolt washer? Or look it up online right?
You can buy the fluid at any Honda/Acura dealer, make sure its Honda ATF DW1. Piece of advice, before you drain the fluid make sure you are able to open the fill bolt.
nice I’ll pass by today ask the for the fluids today???? And where is the fill bolt located by chance I’ll check that asap and how is everyone measuring the 3 quarts exactly??? When draini g I mean
Fill hole for transmission is kinda under the fuse box/air intake. Take a gallon jug, and measure 3qrts of water, mark a line on milk jug. After draining, dump into milk jug to see how close you are.
04-07-2022, 02:27 PM
and I took it to get checked and got a couple issues I need advice on, the car has mods on it such as a
