jonrey

I got a month old 04 TL. I've been trying to get rid of some water spots on my hood with no success. Decided to bring it to my dealer so that they can have a look at it. They came back to me saying that it's caused by Acid Rain and it's embedded in the paint. I was asked to bring it back again so that they can have it polished to neutralized it. I've owned 4 cars and I always threat them the same way. This is the first time I had this kind of issue (on a month old car). My question now is.

1. Is polishing safe to the clear coat? The guy said that they have a 3 to 4 stage process and it should bring the clear coat back.
2. Is polishing a good option for this or are they trying to be cheap?
3. Should this be covered by Acura's warranty?
4. Should I whine about it and insist that they re-paint?

It would be great if you can provide some input on this. Any information regarding the polishing process is appreciated... it would make me sleep well at night while they have my car.

Thanks....

NightRider

This paint on our car is so soft, you can literally scratch it with your fingernail. Because of the fact that our paint is this way, I would say definitely push for a repaint, make sure they clear coat it too. Also to prevent future episodes, CLEAR BRA! As far as polishing goes, it sounds legit. Just make sure they are the ones who touch it so it is their fault if not restored 100%

mastertl

hey i was thinking of getting the clearbra. but i have been using zaino ever since i recieved my car and it looks awesome not to mention the way it repels water. my question is that i live near LA where it can get heavily polluted and chances of acid rain are enough for me to worry about the car. does zaino protect against it. if not and clear bra does, would zaino have any effect on the clear bra if i continue using it

Xpditor

Your clear coat is urethane. The clear bra is urethane. You can Zaino the clear bra just like the clear coat. It's like an extra thick clear coat.

XP

Xpditor

Are they paying for it? If not, see the other thread on waterspots. Or many other old threads on water spots. Try and get it off yourself first.

I'm not buying the acid rain story yet. It sounds to me like regular water spots caused from letting "hard" water evaporate on the car without wiping it down. Did you seal the paint when you first got the car? The polymer sealant (or wax) fills in the pores of the top coat and should offer protection.

When you say "I've owned four cars and treated them all the same way" mean that you didn't do anything? Just asking.

There are lots of cleaner/polishes that will get get off the spots like Meguires #83 Cleaner Polish. But, I would try the simpler things first.

XP

jonrey

They are paying for it. Should I force them to do a repaint? Will it depreciate in value if I have it repainted. I read all the post and did everything that was posted. From vinegar to claying. I'd rather have them do the work from now on. My concern really is the polishing procedure. Im not sure what is involve in that process and if it will not further ruin the paint of the car.

As for my previous car. I did not do any serious detailing. All I did was regular wash and wax once a year (this is my first expensive car, thus the extra attention). But I never had any water spot that won't go away. That's why I was very disapponted when I noticed the water spot after I NXTed my car on it's 3rd week.

Is it possible that I may have sealed the water spot with my NXT? Anyway, I washed my car 10 times since I noticed the water spot, used a dish detergent (palmolive) and tried the vinegar thing too. No luck... unless I'm not doing something right.

Anyway... any thoughts on the polishing process would be great.

rescueswimmer

I would try doing it yourself before you let the dealer monkey with your car. If its acid raid on water spots. You should be able to remove them yourself with a good cleaner polish. You may even have to use a cleaner with a mild abrasive. Your car has a clear coat finish. This means that the car is painted with a base coat, this is the color of your car. Then it is sprayed with a urathane or another type of top coat. So when you get swirl marks and light scratches, water spots or acid rain. This is in the clear coat and can be easily buffed out by a detail shop, or your self with a good orbital polisher. I hope this helps if you have any more? just ask As far as letting the body shop repaint your hood. 9x-10 The factory paint job will be better than a repaint. Not always though some body shops do great prep work and the finish product is just as good or better. Just make sure they paint the whole hood and they dont try to scuff and buff the marks out.

Xpditor

Polishing is using a very fine abrasive in a paste medium to remove the surface layers of clear coat. It is a very small amount and should not impact the long term life of the clear coat.

IMO, a repaint would negatively impact the market value of your car. People would suspect it had collision damage repaired.

Unless the paint is faulty or defective, I would try the polish first. It's not a big deal. The dealer should have people capable and experienced to do it. If they mess it up: nothing lost. You can then demand a repaint.

Polishing is something a lot of us do many times during the life of a car's paint. We're not concerned with taking too much off (in general). Polishing is not the same as sealing or waxing.

Your NXT is a good polymer sealant from Meguire. It is not likely to have sealed in some water spots. It was a good thing for you to do. IMO.

Good luck.
XP

jonrey

XP,

Thanks for your response. You've been very helpful. Hopefully, the polishing will take care of the water spots.

I'll take pictures of the before/after and post it once done.

Thanks!

Xpditor

PS: I would also try clay bar if you haven't done so already. Clay bar works miracles in these situations. It's cheap and easy to use. Check out the technique on www.autopia-carcare.com.

XP

BarryH

Before you try an abrasive, try a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water. Soak the car with a big sponge and let it sit for about five minutes. DON'T apply it in the sun and DON'T let it dry on the car. You'll need to re-wax afterward. If your blemishes are recessed, it's acid rain and it's eaten in to the paint. If they're raised, it's mineral deposits from hard water and the vinegar will dissolve them. Can't hurt trying the vinegar before you attack your car with an abrasive.

JetJock

My 2002 TLS also suffered acid rain damage. Here's what happened. During a home remodeling project, the car sat outside for a few days during a heat spell in July. The car had many coats of excellent quality carnuba wax on the finish, and while sitting outside, it got hit by a little rain shower. I didn't notice it, but the water beaded up nicely, as you would expect, and then the sun came out and burned spots where the water beaded up on the hood and trunk. I don't know why, but the roof was spared along with the spoiler. The dealer said the only way to fix the spots would be to wet sand into the clear coat, removing most of that coat, or to repaint the bad areas. Since the car was only a few months old, I was reluctant to have it repainted or to have the clear coat wet sanded. The dealer was great and wanted to keep my happy, so they offered something that was close to the price of the repaint. I took a Comptec Exhaust system installed by the dealer as a peace offering. The acid rain spots remained, but after time, I got used to the spots. The car was NBP, and really looked great from a short distance. It was only on close inspection under strong light that the spots were noticable. Standing back 5 feet it was almost impossible to notice, and nobody but me and my detail guy ever knew anything happened to the paint. I sold the car in March and purchased an Anthracite 6mt navi TL, and said goodbye to NBP. There is really nothing you can do about acid rain. With the current paint formulation, and the crappy air quality, you are going to get acid rain damage period...nothing short of keeping it inside during rain, or wiping the car down after a shower will prevent this problem. You can put Zaino, wax, anything you choose on the finish, and eventually the sun and elements in the rain will damage the finish. It sucks, but I thought I'd tell you my story before you decide what route to go. My dealer was Jones Acura in Lancaster PA...great people and excellent customer service BTW.

jackal2001

I talked to a private owner of a local paint/speed shop. The guy was know for his excellent paint work. I asked him, since a new car I once had acid rain damage. He said to never wax a new car but to polish it. Wax will just make rain bead. As in the previous post when you get water drops on the car and the sun hits it, it is like a magnifing glass putting a little laser onto your paint.
SO I asked him what to use. He said to find a polish with teflon in it. At that time I found eagle one car polish with teflon. It seemed to work really well. I have also used zymol but that doesn't seem to last long.

TBone2004

I had a similar spot and I was successful in removing it with Meguiars Bug and Tar remover. Then I re-waxed the spot. All better. Obviously, may or may not work for you depending on severity etc. But mine would not come off with anything else, but this stuff got rid of it. I always try to keep dealer hands off my car.

Road Rage

Here is the science of paint etching:

1) It can be mineral deposits - these can usually be polished or clayed out.

2) Acid rain: This is industrial fallout mixing with water to form a weak sulfuric acid. Problem is, as the water beads start to evaporate, especially in the sun, th acid becomes stronger and stronger, until it actually bites into the clear. Rarely can it be buffed out - only mitigated by a fairly aggressive polish followed by succeeding less abrasive polishes. Unless down by a knowledgeable pro, there can be more harm than good. I do not let standing water sit on my car, and keep a Technalon cover over it in the driveway (S2000 is in garage).

3) The magnifying glass effect. Water (non-acid) beads onto the paint, and the sun comes out strongly, and the water acts to concentrate the sun's rays, causing damage to the clear.

One option is to avoid waxes that cause heavy beading (like carnauba) and go to ones that cause sheeting.

My 2002's paint job on the vertical surfaces was ruined while sitting at the dealer 1 day waiting for a part. That is why I never leave it at the dealer - I do all the warranty work myself under $100. or I arrange to have the car kept indoors.

Good Luck!