piggydog

Well it wasn't high engagement but it was higher than I preferred. Now this isn't changing the engagement point but it makes feel way better as the travel time is reduced.

Now everyone drives, clutches, shifts differently and in differently rythms so the cool part is you can adjust the "height" of the clutch stop however you like. Please note that you don't want the clutch stop too thick as to prevent full disengagement, also the clutch needs to go down to a certain point to start the car.

Behind the clutch is a black rubber stop. It simply pulls out. Now with it out, just find some rubber in the house and double sided tape. I put 2 pieces of rubber and thus 2 pieces of double sided tape. The driving experience is much better now, eventhough the clutch stop is now only about .75 of an inch taller now. Oh also check your clutch fluid while you're at it mine was low so it also played a part in my engagement.

timmahh

1980 called and it would like its phone system back..

piggydog

lol it does look like a POS but that's actually a business VOIP phone.

ludachrisvt

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I have the same phone. As far as engagement point goes, nice going!

I love my super high engagement point though

csmeance

Nice phone! I usually use the Cisco 7960... Also what's with the server/switch rack in the background?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hmmm...if fluid is low and engagement was feeling too low is it possible that you have a leak in your slave cylinder?

I did and I had to change mine. Thank you for the tip though in case that's not the problem.

piggydog

hmmm did you see any fluid anywhere? I'm not seeing any fluid.I'll know in a few weeks if it gets low on fluid or not.

94eg!

Did you know that both the in & out stops, as well as the clutch grab point are adjustable? No need for a ghetto fix like this that may tear, wear through or fall off. To fix pedal-out height, all you do is unplug the clutch-out switch (#7 in pic), loosen the jam-nut and give it a couple turns. To adjust pedal-in height, you do the same for the clutch-in switch (#5). To change the clutch grab point, you alter the position of the pedal connection on the clutch master cylinder rod. Very easy...

I have all 4 of my cars adjusted so the pedal height is the same and clutch grabs at the same position. Makes it very easy to swtich cars...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

No sir...no fluid was visible...but someone told me to check the rubber grommet at the slave...you have to get under the front and pull back the slider pin cover...if it's wet, it's the "o" ring leaking.

If you determine that it is...PM me and I'll give you some guidance...pretty straightforward replacement and now my clutch is hard and normal and grabs high as I had hoped. Fluid being low...as much as we may not want to think it, it doesn't evaporate (I don't think) and is usually not a good thing.

piggydog

Thanks you so much. Does #7 have like a relay going into it? And the engagement is too high to my liking (I'd like it closer to the floor, right now there is too much travel on the uptake before it grabs). Will I be turning it clockwise or counter clockwise?

is #7 the clutch engagement adjuster, or the master cyl rod that I need to adjust?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Check the slave...I was on the same path as you thinking I was going to just adjust something on the pedal to make it grab higher...not sure if we're on the same page but I was having to press almost to the floor to get it to engage...

Turns out it was a leaky slave o ring...that made the fluid drop down to the point where air was introduced.

piggydog

thx but are we having two different problems? My problem is on the up take. I only need to press it down halfway to disengage but when I release it on the up take to engage it takes a while. BTW where is the slave on the TL?

94eg!

There should be a simple two prong plug on the end of either switch.

The master cylinder rod is the one that adjusts the engagment point. Break loose the jam nut and turn the rod a few turns by hand. Then toque the jam-nut & test drive. When facing the fire wall, turning the rod counter-clock-wise will make it engage lower in the storke (this sounds like what you want). Turning it clock-wise makes it higher in the storke.

Altering this will also change the clutch pedal's "free-play" after the clutch is let out. You must then adjust the #7 switch accordingly. Set it so you have a tiny bit of "free-play" before the clutch pedal starts to move fluid. Otherwise your throwout bearing will always be pushing against the pressure plate.

If you've moved the clutch engagment point lower, you will need to screw the #7 switch in closer towards the pedal (clockwise). Unplug the siwtch, loosen the jam nut, and screw said switch towards the pedal until it's snug. At this point the switch is pressing the pedal and trying to move fluid. Then simply back it out half a turn and check the pedal for free play. If it's good, torque the jam-nut, plug in the switch and you should be in buisness.

piggydog

much thx.

94eg!

Let us all know how it goes...

BTW: You could also simply make the "clutch-in" position higher by screwing the #5 switch in towards the pedal. This way you don't have to mess with all the other stuff. It's just not as good as doing it the other way becuase it makes your #22 rubber stopper useless (since your no longer hitting it). That means all your stompy foot pressure is going directly onto that #5 switch and it's tiny plastic #8 stopper.

Adjusting by the MC rod is better...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Slave is on the front of the tranny...you can see the bleed nipple for it when looking down directly behind the radiator to the right of the motor. Easiest to get to from below...

If it ain't the problem...thank goodness...sounds like you got your issue figured out!

Happy 4th!

piggydog

thx I'll check this out also

Sonnick

Does anyone want to explain this in layman terms? I'm getting a new clutch very soon and am pleased to hear about this adjusting...

94eg!

All Hondas are the same. I adjust all my cars to drive similar (I have 4). Here is instructions from an Accord shop manual:

http://www.fixautopartz.com/2009/03/...dal-adjustment

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

funny enough, I just made similar adjustments this weekend...makes the clutch feel a lot more precise! I didn't adjust "B" though...will probably give that a look in the next few days. Thanks for sharing!