jpgayan

It seems to me that a lot of TL's have had clutch replacements by the 100,000 mile mark. I just wanted to see if this is a common occurrence or just a lot of TL's on autotrader with clutch replacements. Mines got 120,000 and slips when shifting quickly so I'm starting to look at replacement clutches. Thanks!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

A properly driven clutch will last the life time of the car.
you're trying to find a fault in the clutch, when in reality its USER ERROR.

this is why clutches are not covered under warranty, because its a wear and tear item CAUSED by the user.


2006 Acura TL 31k miles when bought in feb. 2010.
I replaced the clutch 11/05/2010 at 38K miles.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I already gave you my sources of the OEM clutch.

$250 at acuraoemparts.com
I had an independent mechanic install it for $400.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

your question/theory also has holes in it.
you would have to ask, how many of these failed clutches are from 2nd or even 3rd owners.

Ask an ORIGINAL owner, how many clutches have they been through...

jpgayan

Thanks, Justnspace. That's probably what I'll wind up doing when I replace my clutch. Brakes are wear items as well. Some cars routinely last 20k miles, others last double that or more under average use. My old Maxima ate rear pads like a fat kid at Chuck E Cheese while all my other cars wore pretty evenly and lasted at least 30k. Design plays a big a part in longevity along with type of use. I'm not trying to find fault. While shopping for TL's I noticed several with less than 100k that listed "new clutch" like that was some sort of great selling point. I've always taken a clutch replacement before 100k miles as a sign of abuse and steer clear. For the record, I noticed a lot of clutch replacements on G35s as well but I kind of expected that considering the G35 is designed and marketed as a sport sedan and hence more likely to be driven hard, whereas the TL is a luxury sedan with some sport added in. Maybe rich people who can afford new TL's just don't know how to drive stick or can afford a new clutch without thinking twice so they abuse it just for fun.

Bounce

I have a 2005 6MT. Orignal Owner. I replaced my clutch at about 80K. I wouldn't say I drove the car over-aggressive, but I also did not drive it like a family sedan. (When I say original owner, I bought the car with 105 miles on it, it could have been used as a demo or a manager could have done donuts with it in the parking lot - no idea how 105 miles can damage a clutch though, I guess anything is possible).

That being said - there are a few options out there when it comes to replacing a clutch. Unfortunately for me, I did not have all the knowledge at hand and my clutch just suddenly stopped working - which was also really weird - and well I got stuck at a stealership.

Some of the clutches I've researched afterwards are built to a higher standard than the OEM clutch - obviously they are going to be more money....but still cheaper than what a stealership will charge you.

I'd also get in touch w/ Josh @ Excelerate, he is quite knowledgeable in that domain.

Side note: I've driven a few manual transmission cars - and I'm gonna come right out and say that the TL clutch is by no comparison the best one out there. Some may not agree, but I also feel the learning curve on this clutch is much steeper than others. Especially in early gears.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^bounce, you are right. its one of the hardest cars to learn the clutch.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Both of these members are turbo'd

jeff442

My 2005 6MT has 202,000 miles and I see no issues with the clutch, knock on wood. Granted, I do a lot of highway miles but just the same, I thought this info would be reassuring.

mdunn1066

My 2005 got to 108,000 miles before i traded it in with the original clutch in it working perfectly. As someone else said, all depends on the user but provided the user shifted properly and didnt beat the crap out of it, it will last a long long time.

DMZ

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chay823

I have 75,500 on my original clutch on my TL-S and it has no signs of slippage. I must admit, just likes others have said...this clutch is by far the hardest one that I've ever driven. I've gotten alot better since the first month or so when I had the car but still sometimes in early gears its a struggle and depending on what shoes I have on too.

mn2trance

I'm an original owner of an '05 with 88K miles (mostly city mileage now) on it with no problems after following SouthernBoy's recommendations for manual shifting.

TJ70

Mine's an '06 and I'm at 86K (mostly highway) with no clutch problems.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I rest my case.

mn2trance

D'oh! Just checked my mileage this morning and it's around 83K.

Bounce

Did he actually do a write-up? I searched but didn't find, would you mind linking? I'd like to read what he had to say.

SouthernBoy

Yeah, it's out there. I'll see if I can turn up the more recent one which justnspace posted several weeks ago and I made some on-the-fly "updates". You can find a whole lot of stuff that I and others have written on this topic by searching for "downshifting" and "double clutch". We're here to help you in any way we can so please feel free to ask whatever questions come to mind.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...4#post12754014
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...6#post12753766


There's a boatload more out there.

SteveO5858

Adding to the posts above, I have a 2006 6MT with 108,500 miles (original owner) and the original clutch is still hanging in there. I do a mix of highway and city driving (a good portion is highway though). Every once in awhile I'll floor it and there is no slippage.

jammoye2

My 2005 6mt has 125,000 miles and the clutch is fine. I drive mostly highway miles but also push the car on the open road when safe to do so.

s_vares

Hi, I want to add my input because I just replaced my clutch at 109000 miles and it needed to be done when I bought the car. It was slipping at high RMS and it was chattery when trying to take off slow or move around a parking lot.
When I pulled the transmission I found that the clutch disc still had a good amount of meat on it but the flywheel and pressure plate were badly heat checked.
Someone before me didn't drive it right.
Im going to suggest checking the clutch for excessive chatter when you buy your TL.

Also, for the record, I bought an OEM LUK flywheel, and an Exedy pressure plate and disc kit. These were also LUK parts which are OE.
Saved me alot of money from going to the dealer and it feels sooo nice
Cheers

akertulis

118k original clutch with no slippage goin on

Jcaron9gt4

50k and already on my 2nd clutch! I bought the car with 35k and had to replace it by 40k...Don't think the 1st owner knew how to properly drive a clutch...

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

71k and lots of no lift shifts. No problems here.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Second owner here. Bought the car at like 40k and it now has 75k. MY clutch is just now starting to slip. Just a little. Honestly I was used to it and couldn't tell. It wasn't until an Acura tech friend of mine drove the car and said so. It had to of been from the original owner because I treat her very well.

If you do this I wouldn't buy OEM. I would also tell you to do the slave cyl valve removal for the future... This car does shift funny, especially in lower gears.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

what do you mean, not buy oem?

LUK makes our OEM clutches.

SouthernBoy

That's called a power shift. So we're on the same page, a power shift is a shift performed very fast, using the clutch, but keeping your right foot full in the throttle during the shift. For what it's worth, this is not something that is recommended for front drive cars since they are not as strong as rear wheel drive setups.


For this thread, my '04 manual is approaching 85,600 miles with everything original in the drive train.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^If you do a project such as this, and especially after looking at his sig, I would buy a clutch ABOVE OEM specs. Why not?

Acura_Dude

A little off topic but I'd like to add something. My older bro had a 98 Nissan Frontier 5spd (4cyl) that he bought new. 11 yrs later he sold it to a guy who was going back home to mexico and needed a well maintained truck. Sold the truck with 280K miles on it WITH the original clutch. He also towed some seriously heavy stuff with his 4 banger. So i KNOW for a fact a clutch can last the life of the vehicle if driven properly.

I also know of one girl who owns a manual tranny car and she shifts soooo smooth it was like riding in a car with an automatic. (makes me a little jelous. lol) I hate the jerky/bumpy action when riding with someone.

s_vares

Im not sure how good the LUK SAC's are, and this Dual mass flywheel is suppose to cut down on transmission wear, but I looked at alot of options and could not find an OEM like upgrade, and didn't trust alot of cheaper brands. I've driven cars with stage 1 clutches, not really for me. This is a daily driver and I wanted it to be smooth and not a heavy pedal. Im happy with the Exedy/LUK clutch and flywheel (oem) I put in
...But thats just me

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

At 600.00 for a aftermarket and flywheel and 600.00 for an aftermarket clutch. It is no joke when deciding to upgrade.
But if you are able to replace a clutch yourself and save the labor charge then that is definately an option.

I will be going to a sprung 6 puck most likely when I get to that point. I had a couple on other cars and they are not that chatting or rough but will be a little more violent compared to a stocker.

I have to agree that this has been the trickiest clutch to learn engagement point or lack there-of. But the pedal feel is smooth enough to drive bare-footed.