01CobraVert

I am used to the cable driven clutch in my cobra and know little on how the one in my TL works. A few things I’ve noticed and was wondering if I need to have anything checked.

1.) When it is cold it shifts like butter. As it warms up it still shifts fine but it gets notchy going into gear. No issue going in or popping out.

2.) I feel like there is a lot of play in the shifter once in gear. I’m used to aftermarket short throws. I can wiggle it left to right but I haven’t tested how far since I’m not trying to mess with it while driving.

3.) When I try to get on it and pop the clutch quail between gears and then I go to drive normal afterwards, sometimes the clutch grabs right off the floor but then after a few shifts goes back to normal.

4.) I feel like it slips when trying to shift at high gears but the rpms don’t jump around. I’m guessing it’s that solenoid or valve that I read a lot removed. Just wondering. I have no intentions of removing it. It’s a daily driver work car. Just trying to understand it all.

Thank You

csmeance

Lots of folks have has great luck with using GM Synchromesh Friction Modified Manual Trans fluid to get rid of the notchy feeling. It also sounds like there might be air in the system that needs to be bleed.

01CobraVert

From what I read I thought the GMFMSM was used more for not wanting to go into gear or popping out of gear. Also lots said it shifted worse when cold. Mine shifts great when cold.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

1. get the gm friction modified fluid in asap. i started to switch mine out at 30k miles and it's all i've ever used.
2. you're never going to have normal shifts with the delay valve in the slave. take it out, it takes about 15 minutes and a bleeding procedure to get done. makes a big change
3. buy the hybrid racing shifter bushings that heeltoe offers, they help reduce that slop
4. the clutch set is a self adjusting clutch, so the grab point is never the same. i personally hate it but i love the car. i constantly debate going oem again vs xlr8 aftermarket when it's time to change mine

ultimate 6mt mod list that you could do (i've done them all):
- check valve delete in slave
- ss line
- shifter bushings
- comptech short shifter
- heavy shift knob
- friction modified fluid

01CobraVert

Thanks for the input. The car just hit 140000 kilometers. I only own it a few months. I put 6K on it already. I just got the A1 service which I’m guessing is the oil change. It said it around 15% life left

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I agree with the rest of the collective here, get ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified in your transmission as soon as possible. It made a world of difference in my my transmission shifted.

If the Synchromesh doesn't do the trick, then I would have the Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder examined for proper travel.

01CobraVert

I ordered the fluid. Found it on here: https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/g...-12377916.html

I paid more for shipping then I wanted but whatever. I grabbed 3 qts. I’ll try that and look at other mods/ improvements come spring. I really want to swamp out the midpipe but can’t justify the cost for minimal gain and from what I read I believe you need to reflash it to get the real benefit.

WDPanda

The AC Delco Synchromesh FM is a must do maintenance. It helps with notchiness and becomes butter smooth.

As for your clutch issues, I've had that "spirited driving clutch engagement at floor" scenario for both my TLs (which went away when I did a non needed clutch job on my previous 3.2). It seems to be the aging of the pressure plate self adjusting mechanism. When you do go to push the clutch in after whatever type of driving and it is heavy, expect the clutch to engage almost immediately. It's helpful when dumping the clutch up top. Never had any other problems from that clutch "issue"
also, i removed the slave cylinder delay valve which helps pinpoint the exact engagement point. Went from "what the heck" to "never again"

truonghthe

AC Delco FM is a must for every MT TL, even my mechanic (20 years work on Acuras) describe it as magic fluid. Sloppy shifter can be fix with aftermarket bushing.

As far as the high RPM slip, there is nothing you could do about these car.

Remove the check valve only relieve some of the symptom, the biggest issue with the MT is rev hang (especially at high RPM). Clutch pedal will get soft after shifting at high RPM, pump it couple time and it should return to normal. I rarely full throttle MT TL as the clutch is a pain in the ass to replace. However my TL-S is different lol.

DMZ

I've always used the GM/AC Delco stuff. I can tell you the new Honda fluid is just as good.
.
.

01CobraVert

The synchromesh I ordered was not what I received. In the box I got 10-4014 or 88900399. Does anyone know if it is the same? They are saying on the paperwork that this part number replaces the other and it is obsolete.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Not sure what you ordered, but ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified (10-4014 / 88900399) is the right stuff.

01CobraVert

I ordered :

GM Part No.: 12377916

Synchromesh Transmission Fluid -Friction Modified 32Oz
and I guess they sent me the ACDelco instead also I ordered 3 qts and they sent me 6 one is leaking and about 3 oz’s poured out in the box. Guess I’ll keep the extra if I ever do anything down the road

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, the old GM Synchromesh has long since been discontinued. The good news is you got the right stuff.

Locomaaan

iTrader: (1)

i agree 100% with what Sockr says, GM SM is a must and get rid of that stupid slave valve now!! you can thank us later!!! You're welcome lol

truonghthe

the new part is coming in a white bottle now, if you got the black bottle then its mean shiat wrong one lol.

01CobraVert

So I did the slave, the GM synchro mesh, CT extension, weighted shift knob and braided line.

I hate the shifter. It wants to stick and takes more effort to get out of gear sometimes. The weighted shift knob is the one from HeelToe and is too small for my hand. I prefer the stock size over this $60 stainless one. Plus. It gets super cold and super hot.

The fluid in my system was awful and looked like mud when I removed the slave. I cleaned the whole system out and added new Honda fluid.

Overall the slave coming out help with higher RPM shifts but it didn’t fix the clutch feeling weird after high RPM shifts. It still takes a few pumps to get back to normal.

truonghthe

check your CMC and clutch line.

01CobraVert

The line is fine. I replaced the rubber portion with the braided line. All my clutches have been cable driven in mustangs. How to you check a master cylinder? It disengages when I push it in and the is no clutch slip.

truonghthe

The OEM CMC knowing to have internal leak and causing all kind of weirdness. If your clutch doesn't slip and the pedal acting funny during high RPM gear change then its the only weak link left, my KBP pedal feels the same even shifting at redline.

01CobraVert

What’s the best to replace with? I was looking and they seem to be around $50.

Curious3GTL

Wait, the engagement point changes on these? I haven't noticed that with mine yet. It always seems to be near the top.

I will say I have definitely struggle to get the 1-2 shift smoothly. Sometimes 2-3 as well.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

There is no doubt the 3G TL 6MTs are a tad more difficult to drive smoothly compared to other cars, but it can be done with practice.

truonghthe

I am not sure what brand is the best one, so far I am thinking LUK or Nissin most likely these are the two OEM part supplier.




Yes it will change on you, between my SSM and my KBP I have to learn how to drive MT again lol.

Curious3GTL

How often does it change? I have only done about 400 miles in my car but so far it hasn't moved that I can tell.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

it's a self adjusting clutch...
my buddy that I bought the car back from went through 2 clutches in 60K miles (pressure plate fingers broke off on the last one)...last one he did a month before he sold it to me and he already complained about it slipping again...I told him that's not possible, he's got to be riding the clutch putting heat into it in traffic or something. I've had the car back for 4 months now and after doing a new slave with delay removed and adjusting pedal throw to have a little play in it but to grab high...I have had NO issues with shifting or the clutch.

Also, bleeding this clutch system without a mityvac or a way to limit the tranny fork travel while bleeding makes it nearly impossible to bleed correctly. If you are getting grinding and then you pump a few times and it's smooth...you still have air in the line. I recall putting a trimmed broom handle between the back of the driver rotor and the clutch fork to keep it pressed while bleeding to get the final air out. Since then I have gotten a mityvac which did a good job of bleeding it.

About shifter feel...think about the hybrid racing bushings for the shifter linkages if you want less slop and maybe the short shift kit...for a knob, I have a titanium S2000 oem knob in both my S2000 and TL...perfect feel and doesn't get hot or cold IIRC.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

If you are asking about how often the clutch engagement point changes, it is a gradual thing which changes over time as the pressure plate "self-adjusts".

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^right...
a mistake I had to correct for my buddy as well...
not like every press will have a different feel.
I spent 15 years driving stick before getting the TL
and I could not consistently get out of 1st and 2nd
smoothly until the checkvalve was out.

01CobraVert

I have the hybrid racing bushings too. Did e writhing at once. It never got stuck in gear until I put the CT extension on. It not likely it won’t come out, just takes more effort and it isn’t all the time. Just annoys me because that shouldn’t happen.