52k miles - Fuel System Service, Brake System Flush & Transmission Fluid Replacement
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52k miles - Fuel System Service, Brake System Flush & Transmission Fluid Replacement
I currently have an 05 TL with 52k miles. Just got the Fuel System Service, Brake System Flush & Transmission Fluid Replacement done on the car today. Total for all three services was $299. I can definately feel a difference when accelerating and the transmission feels a bit smoother now. I will be going in a couple weeks for the Power Steering Fluid Exchange ($70). I don't know if the Brake System Flush and power Steering Fluid exchange are absolutely necessary but I didn't think the price the stealership quoted me was bizarre so I went for it. I think I should be set now until I hit 100k miles.
Has anyone else had this done to their car yet? If not, I think its worth looking into, especially the transmission fluid replacement since our cars are coming up on the 4-6 year old mark.
Has anyone else had this done to their car yet? If not, I think its worth looking into, especially the transmission fluid replacement since our cars are coming up on the 4-6 year old mark.
#2
trans fluid you can do every 15 or 30 and it will help a bit- all they do is replace 3 qts fluid for 90 bucks! they do not do the 3x3 flush, just a partial drain of the 7.3 total and call it good
brake fluid starting at year 3-- then every year, very important to do!
I even suggest taking brakes apart and greasing everything
ps fluid every 60
fuel injection service every year, DIY Seafoam thread for info- 20 bucks~
spark plugs after 60 will help the mileage stay good, they are 10 bucks each at parts store or 25 dealer for same plug
coolant 5 years
get your battery tested too- those last 3-4 years and with winter its failure time
brake fluid starting at year 3-- then every year, very important to do!
I even suggest taking brakes apart and greasing everything
ps fluid every 60
fuel injection service every year, DIY Seafoam thread for info- 20 bucks~
spark plugs after 60 will help the mileage stay good, they are 10 bucks each at parts store or 25 dealer for same plug
coolant 5 years
get your battery tested too- those last 3-4 years and with winter its failure time
#3
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There are easy DIY's for most/all of these, but not everyone has the tools or wants to make the time. $299 at the dealer is a pretty decent price (given Acura dealers penchant to charge WAY too much).
Fuel system is best done with Seafoam. ~$10 in supplies and 30 mins in the garage; no special tools needed. Look up the Seafoam thread. Dealer soes same basic thing - detergent through the intake/fuel system.
Fuel system is best done with Seafoam. ~$10 in supplies and 30 mins in the garage; no special tools needed. Look up the Seafoam thread. Dealer soes same basic thing - detergent through the intake/fuel system.
#6
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carlos- that's a damn good price for those services. imho- i think you made a good choice- the brake flush & transmission fluid exchange was prudent considering your mileage and year.
#7
acura has a special 3 can setup for cleaning- well they are supposed to.. but ask exactly what they did, might not include what it did a few years ago or things may differ at different shops
Normally its a can in the gas, a can in the intake vac port thru a slow drip, or a machine hooked into the fuel line running a gallon can mix of 50/50 seafoam and gas for 30 minutes! no kidding
3rd is a shot of cleaner on the TB plate
Is all this sounding like our seafoam DIY- yep! but they charge 50 bucks to buy the 3 cans
I am in favor of maitenance far beyond what the book says and understanding/interpreting the book, so these services are a good idea for everyone near this mileage and again every 50-60kmiles do them again
winter tips: clean the door edges - check the door drain holes on bottem- clean door sill on body side- now wax both
Apply liquid silicone spray to all rubber door seals and sunroof- that helps them not freeze closed
check drain holes in trunk and sunroof, vacuum leaves from inlet grill by windshield, change cabin air filter
Normally its a can in the gas, a can in the intake vac port thru a slow drip, or a machine hooked into the fuel line running a gallon can mix of 50/50 seafoam and gas for 30 minutes! no kidding
3rd is a shot of cleaner on the TB plate
Is all this sounding like our seafoam DIY- yep! but they charge 50 bucks to buy the 3 cans
I am in favor of maitenance far beyond what the book says and understanding/interpreting the book, so these services are a good idea for everyone near this mileage and again every 50-60kmiles do them again
winter tips: clean the door edges - check the door drain holes on bottem- clean door sill on body side- now wax both
Apply liquid silicone spray to all rubber door seals and sunroof- that helps them not freeze closed
check drain holes in trunk and sunroof, vacuum leaves from inlet grill by windshield, change cabin air filter
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acura has a special 3 can setup for cleaning- well they are supposed to.. but ask exactly what they did, might not include what it did a few years ago or things may differ at different shops
Normally its a can in the gas, a can in the intake vac port thru a slow drip, or a machine hooked into the fuel line running a gallon can mix of 50/50 seafoam and gas for 30 minutes! no kidding
3rd is a shot of cleaner on the TB plate
Is all this sounding like our seafoam DIY- yep! but they charge 50 bucks to buy the 3 cans
I am in favor of maitenance far beyond what the book says and understanding/interpreting the book, so these services are a good idea for everyone near this mileage and again every 50-60kmiles do them again
winter tips: clean the door edges - check the door drain holes on bottem- clean door sill on body side- now wax both
Apply liquid silicone spray to all rubber door seals and sunroof- that helps them not freeze closed
check drain holes in trunk and sunroof, vacuum leaves from inlet grill by windshield, change cabin air filter
Normally its a can in the gas, a can in the intake vac port thru a slow drip, or a machine hooked into the fuel line running a gallon can mix of 50/50 seafoam and gas for 30 minutes! no kidding
3rd is a shot of cleaner on the TB plate
Is all this sounding like our seafoam DIY- yep! but they charge 50 bucks to buy the 3 cans
I am in favor of maitenance far beyond what the book says and understanding/interpreting the book, so these services are a good idea for everyone near this mileage and again every 50-60kmiles do them again
winter tips: clean the door edges - check the door drain holes on bottem- clean door sill on body side- now wax both
Apply liquid silicone spray to all rubber door seals and sunroof- that helps them not freeze closed
check drain holes in trunk and sunroof, vacuum leaves from inlet grill by windshield, change cabin air filter
#13
the silicone on rubber seals and wax the painted surface it contacts is a great trick to prevent sticking
multi part cleaning systems have a can of different stuff for each area..allegedly
Seafoam is 3 specific oils together that soften, clean and leave a protective film behind
ok to use in gas since it also stabilizes any moisture there
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air- thats bad
By 3 years its ugly and the pedal is probably feeling soft or squishy
moisture turns to rust and get pushed to the calipers where it can cut a seal--also bad for abs controller ($700)
Acura says ok to wait till year 3, but I have seen 2 year old fluid that was really bad already
Do it every year, its an easy DIY and cheap
Use DOT4 fluid, regular or synthetic for normal drivers
racers know about other choices~
multi part cleaning systems have a can of different stuff for each area..allegedly
Seafoam is 3 specific oils together that soften, clean and leave a protective film behind
ok to use in gas since it also stabilizes any moisture there
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air- thats bad
By 3 years its ugly and the pedal is probably feeling soft or squishy
moisture turns to rust and get pushed to the calipers where it can cut a seal--also bad for abs controller ($700)
Acura says ok to wait till year 3, but I have seen 2 year old fluid that was really bad already
Do it every year, its an easy DIY and cheap
Use DOT4 fluid, regular or synthetic for normal drivers
racers know about other choices~
#14
NBP is a pain...
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regarding brake fluid flushing..i wasn't able to find a diy on AZ, any tips in advance? i plan on picking up some brake fluid at autozone. any brand recommendations? i don't need any of super quality, just something that is economical and practical and maybe a bit of performance ;-P
#16
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ that's the basics.. some things they didn't include.
Just like the diagram states.. Driver's side front first; then Passenger side front, Passenger side rear, Driver's side rear. That's the order, follow it.
Drain as much as you can from the master cyl reservoir with a turkey baster and put the old fluid in a mason jar or soda bottle. DON'T LET THE BF TOUCH YOUR PAINT!! Fill the res of the master cylinder with new BF to the top & close the top
When applying brake pressure, DON'T PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR.. 2/3 or 1/2 is plenty of pressure to flush new fluid from the master cylinder to the caliper.
When bleeding the screw, be ready to open & close the valve to keep air from getting sucked in, only open when brake pressure is applied. DON'T TORQUE DOWN ON THE SCREW VALVE!!
Go to the next wheel after you see clean running BF drain out. TOP OFF THE BF IN THE RESERVOIR AFTER EACH WHEEL!..
After bleeding the brakes.. make sure the master cylinder res is topped off and drive around the block. Check for any sponginess. Then check the res again to make sure the level hasn't dropped and you should be good. If the level dropped a little, top it off and keep an eye on it over a day or two.
Just like the diagram states.. Driver's side front first; then Passenger side front, Passenger side rear, Driver's side rear. That's the order, follow it.
Drain as much as you can from the master cyl reservoir with a turkey baster and put the old fluid in a mason jar or soda bottle. DON'T LET THE BF TOUCH YOUR PAINT!! Fill the res of the master cylinder with new BF to the top & close the top
When applying brake pressure, DON'T PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR.. 2/3 or 1/2 is plenty of pressure to flush new fluid from the master cylinder to the caliper.
When bleeding the screw, be ready to open & close the valve to keep air from getting sucked in, only open when brake pressure is applied. DON'T TORQUE DOWN ON THE SCREW VALVE!!
Go to the next wheel after you see clean running BF drain out. TOP OFF THE BF IN THE RESERVOIR AFTER EACH WHEEL!..
After bleeding the brakes.. make sure the master cylinder res is topped off and drive around the block. Check for any sponginess. Then check the res again to make sure the level hasn't dropped and you should be good. If the level dropped a little, top it off and keep an eye on it over a day or two.
#18
Most acura dealerships use the BG system to clean the intake and the injectors which both use an air pressure fed apparatus to clean the systems. The fuel line is diconnected while they clean the injectors insuring you get nothing but cleaner running through them. the intake is done with the vehicle running with a steady but very low pressure spray across the throttle blade insuring hydrolock doesnt happen. i know because we use the same system at the Stl police garage, it works beatifully.
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