So is it more of an improvement in shifting or is it something to replace to protect your transmission before the switches fail? Because 99%of tl owners have no idea what they are and there cars have no problems.

 

The latter more than the former, although many people have said the shifting has improved after changing the switches

I wonder if all automatic 07-08 TL-S shift a little softer than 07-08 TL

 

i have similar issues as TSX-S2000. i also just swapped out my 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches. i would think that any shudder i am experiencing is not due to the switches since they are new. one thing puzzled me though was that the 3rd gear switch i replaced was light grey but the new replacement is black. The 4th gear switch i replaced was brown but the new replacement is white. all this according to the new part numbers which are different from the originals. can someone confirm the colors of the replacement switches?

 

 

someone wait 240k miles to change the original switches and I don't know when the last time a fresh ATF was pour into AT, then I heard complaint "my AT just died". If it shudder meaning the transmission is on the way out and there nothing will stop it once damage been done.

 

For some reason I remember reading that the shudder is a sign of the torque converter failing. IHC changed the switches and switched the type of Redline fluid he was using and his shudder was gone.

 

Interesting read on why to replace your switches AT3rdClutch And the Redline mix flat works..

 

i also read about the shudder and that it was made to go away but maybe someone can chime in to verify the specifics.

 

It depends- it could be the TQ if the shudder is happening while in a particular gear and cruising along at a constant speed, giving a little gas. That would likely be the TQ not staying locked/clutch in the TQ slipping. I have been having this issue with my 2G TLs. If it is shuddering when it is shifting between gears then that may be a sign of the clutches in the trans going.

 

my shudder is very slight and at low speeds but not while shifting. usually cruising somewhere around 30 MPH or so if i switch to manual shift mode, the indicator shows that the tranny is already in 4th so the shudder is happening in 4th. if i give it a little more gas, it goes away. ill have to test in manual mode and see if it does it in any other gear.

i also should note that right now there is about one extra quart of fluid in the tranny since my wife took it to get the oil changed and while checking the tranny fluid it looks like they overfilled it. They did use my Amsoil super shift which was in the car at the time so no mixing of fluids. i am running 100% super shift. i will need to suck out that quart. i wonder if too much fluid may have something to do with it??

 

drain some of the fluid out to get it back to level.

 

PTN- make sure you check it on level ground and per the manual, but yeah definitely get that extra fluid out. You should be able to crack the drain bolt and loosen it enough (but not fully remove) to let some drain out. One reason I try to do everything myself.
That shudder though as you explain sounds typical of the torque conv clutch slipping at low rpm in a high gear

 

Do I need to order washers for both switches or just reuse the ones on the switches I will be removing?

 

You can reuse them

I always do and never have a problem

 

^ you are correct. If it's not broken no need to fix (no unusual symptoms).

Just keep the atf fresh.

^ Totally false.

Shudders can be many things, its not just one size fits all and in different degrees. If you catch it early chances are good that it can be reversed.

Things that can cause shudders not all inclusive... dirty fluild, any number of solenoids (not just 3/4), theres pressure A/B, C, torque solenoid, shift A, B, C, and more depends on year/model and yes, absolutly the torque converter itself.

There's a lot of miss info here on this thread. 3rd and 4th gear switches are only a piece of the puzzle.




^ Try replacing the following.

1. ATF 3x3 and external trans filter if applicable.

Solenoids

2. Shift C

3. Pressure A/B check the screens at the bottom of the three small pipes. Replace the 3 O-rings and gasket.

4. Pressure C.

You need to be sure you have the right switches bc those pressure switches control the timing of the engagement and disengagement of the 3/4 gears. Mistiming equals shudders.

Call the dealership to confirm the PN.

You should also try changing Shift C and Pressure A/B as noted above and ATF 3x3/AT filter.

Filter - #7.

 

^^^ 01acls

...I like this guy...


Preach brother.

 

i know i have the correct switches in regards to part numbers but i was looking for color confirmation from someone else who has replaced them recently.

my fluid is clean so i dont see any issue with that but i suppose i could try replacing the other parts mentioned and see what happens. why particularly Shift C and Pressure A/B?

 

One white switch goes on the back, the other white switch goes on the left upper side by the transmission mount. The black switch goes on the lower front of the transmission

 

The shift C assist shifting in gears 2-5.

Pressure A/B controls pressure vales A/B which controls how much pressure goes to the clutch packs to engage or disengage the selected gear. This appears to be the mother of all Solenoids. That's why I recommend to change the 3 O-rings under this solenoid and the gasket, if the O-rings are defective then the clutch is not getting full pressure to engage the clutch packs in a timely manner.

Thanks for asking.

PTN,

Your post #43 & 50 kinda contradict each other. Please clarify?

One says erratic shifting in gears 3/4 and the other is just shudder in 4.

The latter... 4th gear, if its hunting to lock the torque converter then possibly a defective lockup/torque converter solenoid.

 

post #50 is correct. i checked to see which gear i was in when the shudder was happening and it was 4th. i never experimented to see if i kept it in some other gear manually, whether it would still shudder so i can only say as much as i have checked. no other shifting issues.
so if its slight shudder in 4th, which piece of the puzzle should i be concentrating on?

my new 3rd gear is black (behind lower black plastic cover facing wheelwell) and new 4th gear is white (upper front of tranny). Locations as per sixsixfour as seen in his pic attached.

 

Replace trans filter.

You should try solenoids...

1.Shift C.

2. Pressure A/B. Check for debris at the bottom of the three small pipes. Replace the 3 O-rings and gasket.

And/or replace the Torque converter solenoid if it's indeed hunting/slipping in and out of lock up in 4th gear.

If the atf fluid is remotely dirty do a 3x3. The act of replacing the fluid may dislodge debris in the torque converter.

ie. My 3rd gear shudder did not go away until I did a 95-100% atf fluid exchange.

 

i will look into this. thanks. i did complete fluid replacement with Amsoil Super Shift at 110k. i'm at 148k now with clean fluid.

what fluid(s) are you running?

should also note that i replaced the filter (which was actually clean) when i did the fluid swap along with 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches back in 2012. i just did the switches again this month because i had P0717 and i thought it might be related. after replacing switches, still had the code so i replaced the input shaft speed sensor and fixed the issue.

 

Honda DW1.

 

Reason why I love forums so much. Lots of knowledge and expertise.

Also Monekey, how bad/tough is it to do the tranny mounts?

I have done most of the maintenance suggested here (3/4 switch, ATF and filter, etc.) but the motor mounts and tranny mounts slipped my mind.

Getting colder so I want to do those asap.

I know XLR8 has nice motor mounts (and motor damper things?) that I've seen mentioned and also.

I'll need to look up the DIY thread on that anyway....but any advice would be appreciated!

An older thread with a fairly respected AZing member talking to a trans expert mentioned a napkin-estimate of about 50k interval as a safe amount. Sounds fine by me.

As others have already said: change ATF (at least 3x3, 4-6x3 for more reassurance ), change ATF filter. Trans mount also per past poster. I myself need to look into that as well.


Nice info. And good call.

Makes you wonder how many people had to have thousands/hundreds of trans repairs or trans replacements or sold/junked their car for cheap when one of these (relatively cheap I assume) parts needs simple replacement.

Just read this article: Redline

And he appears to sound expert-like and is really pushing for a better synthetic than the DW1, ie Red Line D4. Thoughts?

 

IMO ATF is ATF. No different than motor oil. Long as it meets the manufacturer's minimum specifications it will work and the manufacturer have to warranty it, regardless of brand. It's that simple.

ATF brand is not as important as service intervals. You can have the best ATF in the world and still have a trans failure due to lack of service or no service.

Based on the above I would not hesitate to use Redline, Valvoline, Amsol, etc ATF in my Honda or Acura vehicles, as long as it meets the manufacturer's specifications.

I use DW1 bc it does the job, simple as that. If it's not broken I don't try to fix it.

.02

 

^^Good point. I just did a 5x3 ATF change out with DW1.

Most people probably are not nearly as meticulous as people on this forum so they probably don't do ATF change until dealer tells them which would likely be up to 60-100k and years and years of old gunky ATF sludging around in the trans.

 

^^^I also did 5x3 prior replace all the pressure switches.