Asgaroth

Hi Guys,
So, stop at the Redlight
Greenlight - move - strange booom!!! underneath the car.
Car goes into neutral and I can't shift gear into parking.
Turn off the car - move to parking, start again - grinding noise shifting to D.

towed to a mechanic shop. will get some answers Mon-Tue.

Midnight Mystery

Did the car drive after?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

perhaps axle?

sucks about guessing...we possibly can't tell you what is wrong without looking at the vehicle...
perhaps wait till a proper diagnosis?

t-rd

It's probably one of the axles. They tend to rust out right by the rubber damper, traps moisture then snap after 10+ years. The stub end is probably flopping around hitting suspension components, hence the grinding sound when you go into D.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like an axle to me as well.

Midnight Mystery

I've seen a lot of axels fail here lately...

TheSauceBoss

Pretty much exactly what happened to me a couple months ago. I thought it was the trans at first, because it was very difficult to change gears. But it was indeed the axle. If one breaks, the differential prevents any power from getting to the wheels....so you can't move the car at all.

I'd bank on the axle. Hopefully the shop is honest and confirms that guess.

Asgaroth

You Guys are right.

Front axels are gone both are beeing replaced atm $700

I do appreciate your comments ty.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, $700, that sounds more than a bit steep.

Asgaroth

I know but I will spend more towing it to another garage.

Jackass

$700 for both front axles seems just fine to me. For one axle, a tad steep, but for two, I don't see the issue.

thoiboi

Hope they're OEM at least

donkiboy

I'm also at the point where my axles front axle are about to fail. Dealer mentioned that it's rusted out bad on the right side.
Are they' two axles on the front? I always thought it was considered one axle that joins the two wheels.

thoiboi

no.. there's this thing called a transmission that separates the two


have you looked under your car lately?

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Quit being such a donkey! Yes, there are 2 axles and an intermediate shaft. I should inspect mine soon with all of these breaking!

TheSauceBoss

I can't say it enough - APWI axles from rockauto. $110 for both shipped to your door. I did my own but a shop would probably charge 2, maybe 3 hours labor. Perfect fit and mine have been smooth as could be, 5k miles in. Save your $!

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

You lowered?

TheSauceBoss

Nah, stock suspension. I've heard people with aftermarket suspension could have more issues with vibration, but I have no evidence other than someone else mentioning that on these forums somewhere.

Also I have a 5AT, worth noting that the 6MT folks can get OEM axles for much cheaper than the automatic ones.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

Yes, but the price is rising every day. They are up to $240 per side for OEM. I remember when they were $175/side

Asgaroth

Alright, last update. I'm back behind the wheel of my TL. So far so good. Thanks for the support.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

What axles did you go with?

Asgaroth

I have no idea - the shop did it with 24k/2y warranty. NOT an OEM. some aftermarket I assume. 320 for both.

I had bad axles before (100k miles ago) and I would hear it clicking. this time it's just out of nowhere - fail.

now it's time to change TPMS sensors

donkiboy

Yes, that's what I thought as well. But some still refer to it as being two axles, 1 for front and 1 for rear.
Do axles usually make noise before failing? I've got no noise on mine, just excess rust upon visual inspection. I wonder if replacement isn't needed just yet.

TheSauceBoss

People have experienced their CV joints "clicking" when turning, which is typically a sign of the boots on the axle going bad.

However, there is virtually no sign your shaft is about to fail, until after it does.

I talked about how the harmonic stabilizer can trap water, salt, dirt, etc. and corrode the axle underneath (which you can't see with a visual inspection) here. https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post16434595

If you live in a place like me where they salt the roads in the winter (and have near 200k on your car), I don't think it would hurt to replace them. Mine failed 45 mins from home, and that was an expensive tow. I guess it's the ol' risk vs. reward.

Chad05TL

$85 each at Autozone.
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/...false&model=cv

Of course you will have to dismantle your front end.. haha
And you;ll need a big cheater bar to take off that big axle nut.. real fun.
If it cost me 300 for OEM parts, I know if I was to work on YOUR car, or anyone else's as a profession, I assure you I will charge an added 300 or 400..

TheSauceBoss

Cost also depends on if your car is manual or auto.

I know user horseshoes said a year or two ago that he used duralast axles from autozone and seemed indifferent about them. You can get new axles of rockauto for cheaper ($110), of which multiple people on these forums have on their cars.

Being lowered also affects it, as others stated above....I know Raxles and Insaneshaft used to be the go-to for lowered cars, but I'm not sure off the top of my head.

Pretty wild how this has been a hot topic recently with axle failures occurring regularly for users here.

Chad05TL

I'm surprised these axles last as long as they do. Especially with current horsepower of cars in the 2000's vs. the 1980's. And in the late 80s they were breaking much faster with 1/2 the power. haha I used to hear them click when they go in a corner.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I'm inclined to toss the Duralast axles in the trash after only 15 months.

giraffe

iTrader: (1)

One of my axles sheared in half last year. Sounds very similar to what happened with mine.

Slpr04UA6

Jesus, so then what’s the go to brand? OEM? Or another, like rock auto? I’m still on OEM axles and lowered but only 83K miles on it....

TheSauceBoss

There's no "go-to" per say, as everyone has different needs depending on their car.

If you're in sunny Florida and only at 83k, I'd say you are probably fine.