2004 TL MTF change
#1
2004 TL MTF change
I've been combing the threads, and the only walk throughs I can find are for ATF chhanges. Is the MT process much different? Is the ATF change a reasonably good guide? Pardon my ignorance, but I want to do it right. Thanks!
#2
".....MTF change....."
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
there will be a fill bolt above.
and a drain bolt below.
I believe they are both 3/8 ratchet sized.
so, you stick the end of your ratchet into the square.
for a clearer view, I decided to take out the battery and airfilter box, but is not needed to do so.
In my case, i found it easier as my fill bolt was stubborn and I had more space to torque the bolt off.
I used a long extension to get the most leverage.
Once the fill bolt is loosened, i left the plug on.
i then worked on the drain bolt.
which is directly underneath the fill bolt.
again, its a 3/8 ratchet size square "plug"
this one was much easier and after I got it loose, i drained the fluid.
put the drain plug back in and now pour 2.3 quarts of MTF.
put the fill plug back in and VOILA!
and a drain bolt below.
I believe they are both 3/8 ratchet sized.
so, you stick the end of your ratchet into the square.
for a clearer view, I decided to take out the battery and airfilter box, but is not needed to do so.
In my case, i found it easier as my fill bolt was stubborn and I had more space to torque the bolt off.
I used a long extension to get the most leverage.
Once the fill bolt is loosened, i left the plug on.
i then worked on the drain bolt.
which is directly underneath the fill bolt.
again, its a 3/8 ratchet size square "plug"
this one was much easier and after I got it loose, i drained the fluid.
put the drain plug back in and now pour 2.3 quarts of MTF.
put the fill plug back in and VOILA!
Last edited by justnspace; 11-11-2012 at 08:32 AM.
The following users liked this post:
mhrobson (11-11-2012)
#7
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: New Friggin Jerzy
Age: 70
Posts: 5,505
Received 561 Likes
on
393 Posts
Just make sure you use the GM Syncromesh Friction Modified fluid. Very imnportant!
GM part # 12377916. You'll have to call around to Chevy dealers in your area to find it. If the 1st dealer you call doesn't have it, they can usually look in the computer to see who does.
.
.
GM part # 12377916. You'll have to call around to Chevy dealers in your area to find it. If the 1st dealer you call doesn't have it, they can usually look in the computer to see who does.
.
.
Trending Topics
#8
the overexplainer
a very long funnel helps too. I can do mine without having to remove anything from the engine bay besides the misc plastic cover.
Also, new crush washer for the bottom bolt (uses the same washer for your motor oil drain bolt), I reuse the top washer since gravity is working against the fluid anyway.
Dont torque the fill bolt too tight either, i honestly dont follow the torque spec for this one. I do a snug fit, that's it. You'll be happy you did this on the next change.
Also, new crush washer for the bottom bolt (uses the same washer for your motor oil drain bolt), I reuse the top washer since gravity is working against the fluid anyway.
Dont torque the fill bolt too tight either, i honestly dont follow the torque spec for this one. I do a snug fit, that's it. You'll be happy you did this on the next change.
Last edited by ez12a; 11-11-2012 at 11:11 AM.
#9
GM Syncromesh FM part # replaced by AC Delco #
"the GM stuff has been superseded by a new part number, which is;\ AC Delco part 88900399"
I have yet to confirm this for myself as my MTF change was recent using the GMSFM #12377916 that I bought last year. I suppose others here have confirmed this AC MTF is indeed GM Syncromesh FM.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (11-11-2012)
#10
Race Director
The Garage, C-13. You're welcome:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
#11
Let regret fade away.
there will be a fill bolt above.
and a drain bolt below.
I believe they are both 3/8 ratchet sized.
so, you stick the end of your ratchet into the square.
for a clearer view, I decided to take out the battery and airfilter box, but is not needed to do so.
In my case, i found it easier as my fill bolt was stubborn and I had more space to torque the bolt off.
I used a long extension to get the most leverage.
Once the fill bolt is loosened, i left the plug on.
i then worked on the drain bolt.
which is directly underneath the fill bolt.
again, its a 3/8 ratchet size square "plug"
this one was much easier and after I got it loose, i drained the fluid.
put the drain plug back in and now pour 2.3 quarts of MTF.
put the fill plug back in and VOILA!
and a drain bolt below.
I believe they are both 3/8 ratchet sized.
so, you stick the end of your ratchet into the square.
for a clearer view, I decided to take out the battery and airfilter box, but is not needed to do so.
In my case, i found it easier as my fill bolt was stubborn and I had more space to torque the bolt off.
I used a long extension to get the most leverage.
Once the fill bolt is loosened, i left the plug on.
i then worked on the drain bolt.
which is directly underneath the fill bolt.
again, its a 3/8 ratchet size square "plug"
this one was much easier and after I got it loose, i drained the fluid.
put the drain plug back in and now pour 2.3 quarts of MTF.
put the fill plug back in and VOILA!
I just replaced mine a few days ago and I didn't have to remove anything from above.
All I did was:
- jack the car up level on stands
- remove the underbody spoiler which consists of two bolts and 4 push pins
- remove the fill bolt (which is smaller than the drain bolt, just above to the right)
- remove the drain bolt and drain the fluid in the tranny
- replace the drain bolt
- pump 2.3 L of syncromesh fluid into the fill bolt (you will need a pump and a small rubber tube)
- once the fluid starts to come out the fill bolt, the tranny is full
- replace the fill bolt
- replace the underbody spoiler
#13
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Also, I don't believe there is a need for a pump. Open the fill bolt, open the drain bolt, open the check bolt. Once all the fluid is drained, replace the drain bolt with a new washer, then use a long funnel to fill from the fill bolt hole on top. Fill until fluid comes out of the check bolt hole (keep your drain pan under the trans). This is why it's critical to have your car level. If there was any lean, then you may not put enough fluid in or put too much fluid in. Once the check bolt stops draining, replace the check bolt with a new washer (both washers will run you a grand total of less than 5 bucks at your dealer). Then tighten your fill bolt above (Acura's service manual says to replace this washer too, but I don't see the point). You're done.
I did this on my 08 Type-S yesterday. I don't know if the 6MT is different on the UA6 in any way so forgive me if some of my information is incorrect.
Tips: Get a socket accessory kit with extensions up to 14" and get a swivel socket (sometimes called a U-joint I think). http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...&blockType=G17 You can do this entire process without removing a thing except the under-body plastic cover. The Acura service manual says to remove the entire air cleaner assembly and battery holder plate. Not necessary at all. And get yourself a funnel with one of those bendy necks: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=557785_0_0_
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AndrewS
Audio, Video, Electronics & Navigation
19
03-14-2024 06:59 PM