2004 TL dies on road trip
06-17-2006, 09:44 PM
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2004 TL dies on road trip
So I just had a most infuriating day, with my TL letting me down for the first time.
I took a road trip from Northern VA to Ohio for a wedding. I just had the car in for a B service a week ago, and new PZero Neros for a more comfy ride.
After about 2 hours of driving, I stop for a pit stop in PA. Upon returning to my car, my TL refuses to start. All I hear is clicking. My battery is only 2 years old (original), but I guess it was discharged. I get a jump from a friendly passer-by, and hit the road again.
Now as I continued to drive, the NAVI screen was flickering with a lot of noise. Also, everytime I slowed down (say from 65 to 45), the NAVI would reset. An hour of driving later I stop to get gas, and the car dies again. Another jump gets it up and running, or more like hobbling. Now the NAVI was resetting every few seconds.
So I take it to a dealer asap, and they say that the only problem is a dead battery. They replace the battery and all seems good, but I wanted to get some members' feedback if there's anything else I should be wary of. 2 years seems awefully short for a battery to die. And would a dead battery explain the electrical problems I was having while driving?
Thanks for any feedback!
I took a road trip from Northern VA to Ohio for a wedding. I just had the car in for a B service a week ago, and new PZero Neros for a more comfy ride.
After about 2 hours of driving, I stop for a pit stop in PA. Upon returning to my car, my TL refuses to start. All I hear is clicking. My battery is only 2 years old (original), but I guess it was discharged. I get a jump from a friendly passer-by, and hit the road again.
Now as I continued to drive, the NAVI screen was flickering with a lot of noise. Also, everytime I slowed down (say from 65 to 45), the NAVI would reset. An hour of driving later I stop to get gas, and the car dies again. Another jump gets it up and running, or more like hobbling. Now the NAVI was resetting every few seconds.
So I take it to a dealer asap, and they say that the only problem is a dead battery. They replace the battery and all seems good, but I wanted to get some members' feedback if there's anything else I should be wary of. 2 years seems awefully short for a battery to die. And would a dead battery explain the electrical problems I was having while driving?
Thanks for any feedback!
06-17-2006, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by buxleyp
And would a dead battery explain the electrical problems I was having while driving?
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06-18-2006, 03:57 AM
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wow, this is a timely post.
This past thursday, my 05 TL was slow cranking. I knew it was the battery because about 6 months before that my battery drained when I was listening to the radio for a long time while in the accessory position on the ignition. I got a jump from AAA.
Then 3 month after that, I drained the battery again, but this time after only 5 or 10 minutes. I was lucky someone gave me a jump. He had to leave his car on idle for 20 minutes before my car started. Kind man.
Ok, so no problems with slow cranks after these two incidences.
But 2 weeks ago, without using the radio or doing anything to drain the battery, my car didn't start up. I tried for 10 minutes before it cranked. Ever since then, every time I started the car it would be a slow crank.
So I decided I needed this checked out, and the dealer installed a new battery.
I do find it strange, after only 1.5 years, and the battery is no good.
This past thursday, my 05 TL was slow cranking. I knew it was the battery because about 6 months before that my battery drained when I was listening to the radio for a long time while in the accessory position on the ignition. I got a jump from AAA.
Then 3 month after that, I drained the battery again, but this time after only 5 or 10 minutes. I was lucky someone gave me a jump. He had to leave his car on idle for 20 minutes before my car started. Kind man.
Ok, so no problems with slow cranks after these two incidences.
But 2 weeks ago, without using the radio or doing anything to drain the battery, my car didn't start up. I tried for 10 minutes before it cranked. Ever since then, every time I started the car it would be a slow crank.
So I decided I needed this checked out, and the dealer installed a new battery.
I do find it strange, after only 1.5 years, and the battery is no good.
06-18-2006, 08:01 AM
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Thanks for all the info guys.
baby_igor: I'll connect up an OBDII reader this week and see if anything was recorded, and I'll post what I find.
Reservoir Dog: "possessed" is exactly how I would have described my TL. All the time I was driving, I kept thinking about that old joke "If cars were like computers," wondering if a reboot would fix things!
baby_igor: I'll connect up an OBDII reader this week and see if anything was recorded, and I'll post what I find.
Reservoir Dog: "possessed" is exactly how I would have described my TL. All the time I was driving, I kept thinking about that old joke "If cars were like computers," wondering if a reboot would fix things!
06-18-2006, 08:22 AM
#11
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well I had been washing my car and then detailing it for most of the year and had the radio going all this time.... 
, one day it happened, the clicking sound and flickering dash as I tried to start it. I jumped started it and the green eye came back, this has been almost 6 months since it happened, now when I wash detail the car I bring my boom box with me and when I'm working on the car (having the doors open while I installed the SS) I manually turn off the lights.
With todays cars almost everything runs off the battery, windows, sunroof, trunk, etc, etc, so I think is wise not to abuse the battery.
Now I have a set of jumper cables in the trunk, just in case...but I'm almost sure I will have to buy a new battery before this coming Winter.....
, one day it happened, the clicking sound and flickering dash as I tried to start it. I jumped started it and the green eye came back, this has been almost 6 months since it happened, now when I wash detail the car I bring my boom box with me and when I'm working on the car (having the doors open while I installed the SS) I manually turn off the lights. With todays cars almost everything runs off the battery, windows, sunroof, trunk, etc, etc, so I think is wise not to abuse the battery.
Now I have a set of jumper cables in the trunk, just in case...but I'm almost sure I will have to buy a new battery before this coming Winter.....
06-18-2006, 08:24 AM
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Sounds like your battery had a cell go bad. If that was the case the battery could only produce about 10 volts. Cars now have soooo many electronics that with out a good battery the alternator cannot keep up by itself. Alternators are NOT battery chargers, they are ment to maintain the battery charge. Their simply is not enough energy to run the car and all its elctronics and charge the battery too. Many charging systems in todays cars have built in protection, If battery voltage drops below a certain amount, the alternator will shut off to prevent it from burning itself up. So to answer your question, Yes a bad battery will make your car seem like it is crazy.
just an FYI, The battery in the TL is free replacement for up to 2 years, after that it gets pro-rated. I hope you didn't have to pay full price for your battery.
Also, I really doubt to will find any codes stored in the computer.
Hope this clears things up for you.
just an FYI, The battery in the TL is free replacement for up to 2 years, after that it gets pro-rated. I hope you didn't have to pay full price for your battery.
Also, I really doubt to will find any codes stored in the computer.
Hope this clears things up for you.
06-18-2006, 08:52 AM
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You may want to check out the TSB on the navigation as well. There was an issue regarding the navigation draining the battery. I don't think this is the case since you made a quick stop, but I'd get it updated as well.
06-18-2006, 09:01 AM
#15
it def sounds like the battery! i had this problem earlier this year (03 TL) and honestly, this was the first time in 4 years that my stock battery gave up!
i'm running 2x12s and dvd/navi. like with you, all my electronics were on the fritz, and i was freaking out, mainly because my aftermarket alarm wouldnt' let me in on a certain # of failed attempts
i'm running 2x12s and dvd/navi. like with you, all my electronics were on the fritz, and i was freaking out, mainly because my aftermarket alarm wouldnt' let me in on a certain # of failed attempts
06-18-2006, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 05TLTony
You may want to check out the TSB on the navigation as well. There was an issue regarding the navigation draining the battery. I don't think this is the case since you made a quick stop, but I'd get it updated as well.
I would not trust any codes you get with all the electronics being effected by the weak battery. You may get false reading.
06-18-2006, 10:48 AM
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bhelsdon: Your post was very illuminating, thanks! Unfortunately the battery was 26 months old, so it was not free (but I did get the pro-rated price).
Also, I have to put a plug in Radley in Falls Church. They were very helpful on a Saturday afternoon, whereas everywhere else was closed or not answering their phones. Rosenthal's operators hung up on me four consecutive times!
Also, I have to put a plug in Radley in Falls Church. They were very helpful on a Saturday afternoon, whereas everywhere else was closed or not answering their phones. Rosenthal's operators hung up on me four consecutive times!
06-18-2006, 06:29 PM
#21
Safety Car
Originally Posted by themathguy
Anybody here think it could be the alternator? I'm no expert, but I have had my share of alternator problems.
06-18-2006, 07:36 PM
#22
When the battery goes bad, the voltage can swing all over the place, hosing up the electronics. It stores energy to start the car, but also smooths and regulates the voltage the alternator puts out.
Without the battery, the alternator puts out dc, but its pulses, or has a ripple, plus the voltage will go all over the place depending on the alternator speed and the electrical load.
Brett
Without the battery, the alternator puts out dc, but its pulses, or has a ripple, plus the voltage will go all over the place depending on the alternator speed and the electrical load.
Brett
06-18-2006, 07:37 PM
#23
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standard battery life in Arizona is two years because of the heat, I've only had my TL for less than 6 months with stock battery. But on my other cars I've changed to Optima batteries and had alot better results. 
06-18-2006, 08:52 PM
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The battery does not regulate voltage, the voltage regulator is built into the alternator. If you are having electrical problems, the alternator is the likely culprit. You would be best served to check both.
06-18-2006, 09:18 PM
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Actually, the battery acts as a capacitor. See October 2005 Service News .
Replacing a Battery? Don’t Disconnect the Cables With the Engine Running
When replacing a battery, many service techs disconnect the battery cables with the engine running to keep the data alive in volatile memory. This practice worked fine back in the day when vehicles were pretty much a box on wheels, but with so many of today’s vehicles sporting a impressive array of cool, high tech hardware, it’s not recommended. Here’s why:
• The battery works as a capacitor to prevent sudden swings in voltage. With the battery cables disconnected, the alternator voltage regulator tries to stabilize the system voltage, but it can only do so by turning the alternator on and off.
• When solenoids or relays are turned on and off, they produce a very high voltage spike that travels through the 12-volt system. This voltage spike can fry sensitive solid state components or corrupt the data that’s stored in volatile memory for such components as the gauge control module, the radio, and the various control units.
The best way to keep data alive in volatile memory when replacing a battery is to hook up a Honda Computer Memory Saver to the 16P data link connector (DLC). This portable tool works as a secondary 12-volt source. It saves you the hassle of writing down your service client’s audio presets, resetting the clock, or even doing the idle learn procedure.
The Honda Computer Memory Saver is indeed a real time saver, but here’s a word of caution: Don’t let the positive battery cable touch any body ground. It will cause a short that will either blow the fuse in the tool or cause a drop in system voltage resulting in the loss of any data that’s in volatile memory.
The Honda Computer Memory Saver is available through the Acura Tool and quipment Program. To order one, just call 888-424-6857, and ask for EZRMS4000H.
When replacing a battery, many service techs disconnect the battery cables with the engine running to keep the data alive in volatile memory. This practice worked fine back in the day when vehicles were pretty much a box on wheels, but with so many of today’s vehicles sporting a impressive array of cool, high tech hardware, it’s not recommended. Here’s why:
• The battery works as a capacitor to prevent sudden swings in voltage. With the battery cables disconnected, the alternator voltage regulator tries to stabilize the system voltage, but it can only do so by turning the alternator on and off.
• When solenoids or relays are turned on and off, they produce a very high voltage spike that travels through the 12-volt system. This voltage spike can fry sensitive solid state components or corrupt the data that’s stored in volatile memory for such components as the gauge control module, the radio, and the various control units.
The best way to keep data alive in volatile memory when replacing a battery is to hook up a Honda Computer Memory Saver to the 16P data link connector (DLC). This portable tool works as a secondary 12-volt source. It saves you the hassle of writing down your service client’s audio presets, resetting the clock, or even doing the idle learn procedure.
The Honda Computer Memory Saver is indeed a real time saver, but here’s a word of caution: Don’t let the positive battery cable touch any body ground. It will cause a short that will either blow the fuse in the tool or cause a drop in system voltage resulting in the loss of any data that’s in volatile memory.
The Honda Computer Memory Saver is available through the Acura Tool and quipment Program. To order one, just call 888-424-6857, and ask for EZRMS4000H.
06-19-2006, 11:30 AM
#26
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really cant say your TL let you down. all batteries will die sooner or later. unfortunately yours died on your road trip. saw a thread here not to long ago with someone stating that Honda/Acura got a batch of bad batteries from their distributor.
06-19-2006, 11:35 AM
#27
Originally Posted by TheAcAvenger
Optima yellow top for the win!
Given a cars automotive system is relatively steady stare, except for starting, the Optima yellow top is not as effective.
Go red top!
06-19-2006, 11:41 AM
#28
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Actually no... The Yellow top is a true deep cycle battery. It's designed to be virtually fully discharged, then re-charged (think of a trolling motor on a fishing boat).
Given a cars automotive system is relatively steady stare, except for starting, the Optima yellow top is not as effective.
Go red top!
Given a cars automotive system is relatively steady stare, except for starting, the Optima yellow top is not as effective.
Go red top!
The Yellow top and red top are both great batteries, but are not true deep cycle batteries. They can take a discharge, but are no longer 100%. They won't drop like a standard lead acid battery, but do suffer. I have found this out first hand. The only real difference between the red and yellow top are there CCA's. The yellow has a higher CCA then Red.
The Blue has a lower CCA then the other two, but it can be cycled down and still continue to hold a good charge.
06-19-2006, 11:47 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by A SiQ TL
That's kinda what I was thinking. Doesn't the battery just start the car, and the alternator take over and run the electronics while it's running?
An alternator recharges the battery and if it's a bad alternator; which I doubt, it would die within a few months and not years.
06-19-2006, 11:50 AM
#30
Safety Car
These type of batteries can't handle being drained completely and charged. You did it twice which destroyed the battery. If you had a Optima you could do it 100x and it would be fine.
Originally Posted by 05TL08
wow, this is a timely post.
This past thursday, my 05 TL was slow cranking. I knew it was the battery because about 6 months before that my battery drained when I was listening to the radio for a long time while in the accessory position on the ignition. I got a jump from AAA.
Then 3 month after that, I drained the battery again, but this time after only 5 or 10 minutes. I was lucky someone gave me a jump. He had to leave his car on idle for 20 minutes before my car started. Kind man.
Ok, so no problems with slow cranks after these two incidences.
But 2 weeks ago, without using the radio or doing anything to drain the battery, my car didn't start up. I tried for 10 minutes before it cranked. Ever since then, every time I started the car it would be a slow crank.
So I decided I needed this checked out, and the dealer installed a new battery.
I do find it strange, after only 1.5 years, and the battery is no good.
This past thursday, my 05 TL was slow cranking. I knew it was the battery because about 6 months before that my battery drained when I was listening to the radio for a long time while in the accessory position on the ignition. I got a jump from AAA.
Then 3 month after that, I drained the battery again, but this time after only 5 or 10 minutes. I was lucky someone gave me a jump. He had to leave his car on idle for 20 minutes before my car started. Kind man.
Ok, so no problems with slow cranks after these two incidences.
But 2 weeks ago, without using the radio or doing anything to drain the battery, my car didn't start up. I tried for 10 minutes before it cranked. Ever since then, every time I started the car it would be a slow crank.
So I decided I needed this checked out, and the dealer installed a new battery.
I do find it strange, after only 1.5 years, and the battery is no good.
06-19-2006, 11:50 AM
#31
Ryan Christopher
Originally Posted by 05TL08
wow, this is a timely post.
This past thursday, my 05 TL was slow cranking. I knew it was the battery because about 6 months before that my battery drained when I was listening to the radio for a long time while in the accessory position on the ignition. I got a jump from AAA.
Then 3 month after that, I drained the battery again, but this time after only 5 or 10 minutes. I was lucky someone gave me a jump. He had to leave his car on idle for 20 minutes before my car started. Kind man.
Ok, so no problems with slow cranks after these two incidences.
But 2 weeks ago, without using the radio or doing anything to drain the battery, my car didn't start up. I tried for 10 minutes before it cranked. Ever since then, every time I started the car it would be a slow crank.
So I decided I needed this checked out, and the dealer installed a new battery.
I do find it strange, after only 1.5 years, and the battery is no good.
This past thursday, my 05 TL was slow cranking. I knew it was the battery because about 6 months before that my battery drained when I was listening to the radio for a long time while in the accessory position on the ignition. I got a jump from AAA.
Then 3 month after that, I drained the battery again, but this time after only 5 or 10 minutes. I was lucky someone gave me a jump. He had to leave his car on idle for 20 minutes before my car started. Kind man.
Ok, so no problems with slow cranks after these two incidences.
But 2 weeks ago, without using the radio or doing anything to drain the battery, my car didn't start up. I tried for 10 minutes before it cranked. Ever since then, every time I started the car it would be a slow crank.
So I decided I needed this checked out, and the dealer installed a new battery.
I do find it strange, after only 1.5 years, and the battery is no good.
One should never listen to a radio in a newer car for a sustained period of time in a newer car. They will start to drain the power in a relatively short period of time.
Coming from the car stereo install I know this fact well. I get this on a regular basis. I personally don’t listen to or have it on for more then 15 mins without starting the car. Just to be safe.
As for the life of a battery, it is completely based on care. With a lead acid cell battery, the cells themselves can be broken loose of the chain, causing a drop in voltage and current. So depending on the roads you drive on, this in itself can kill a battery.
Jason
06-19-2006, 11:59 AM
#32
Ryan Christopher
As for the alternator, not likely. Its a easy test, put a DVM on the battery while the car is running. What is the voltage? If it is 13.8-14.4 volts, the alternator is good. If it is 12.0-12.6 volts, you are running on battery only.
A 12 volt lead acid battery consists of 6 cells, each one measuring 2.1 volts each. So the maximum voltage for a new battery will be 12.6 volts. This is what your battery should read a short time after your car shuts off.
A standard alternator will read 14.0-14.4 volts output. The alternator on Honda/Acura cars are very good alternators. Much better then the crap they use on GM and other domestic vehicles.
A standard Honda/Acura alternator is designed to put out in the range of 120-135 amps worth of current, this is very high for a stock alternator.
Jason
A 12 volt lead acid battery consists of 6 cells, each one measuring 2.1 volts each. So the maximum voltage for a new battery will be 12.6 volts. This is what your battery should read a short time after your car shuts off.
A standard alternator will read 14.0-14.4 volts output. The alternator on Honda/Acura cars are very good alternators. Much better then the crap they use on GM and other domestic vehicles.
A standard Honda/Acura alternator is designed to put out in the range of 120-135 amps worth of current, this is very high for a stock alternator.
Jason
06-19-2006, 12:29 PM
#33
Racer
If your battery was dead, then your car was running off the alternator only. It's impressive that the alternator could even keep up, however it does explain the problem(s) you were having. They should go away with a new battery. In the future, I would not do this to the car as (1) it puts unneccesary stress on the alternator/charging system and (2) it is hard on sensitive electonics.
06-19-2006, 04:00 PM
#34
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will someone clear something up for me. I've heard people say that giving these type of cars a jump start can actually damage the computer. That the jump start was fine for the older cars but should not be used on newer cars.
06-20-2006, 12:57 AM
#35
2005 TL SSM/Quartz
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Pimpin,
I know now not to listen to the radio with the car off.
Which optima battery do you think is the best for the TL? the yellow, red, or blue?
Yea, after the first drainage, I too bought jumper cables. I didn't have to pay for the new battery because it was within 2 years of the warranty. Although, the replacement battery was new, it didn't look like the original with the green "eye" indicator, it looks very standard with just plain acura labels.
I know now not to listen to the radio with the car off.
Which optima battery do you think is the best for the TL? the yellow, red, or blue?
Yea, after the first drainage, I too bought jumper cables. I didn't have to pay for the new battery because it was within 2 years of the warranty. Although, the replacement battery was new, it didn't look like the original with the green "eye" indicator, it looks very standard with just plain acura labels.
04-27-2008, 05:49 PM
#36
I have had this happen to me once too. I was getting ready for work and all of a sudden it doesn't start. I was really pissed off. I only had the car for about a year and a half bought it brand new too 2006. What I thought the problem was of leaving my lights on and it automatically shuts off.
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