15 watt REVERSE HID Kit ???
#42
Drifting
Stop saying that putting the wrong fuse in your circuit is an "upgrade". That's dangerous misinformation. It's not an upgrade, it's just stupid.
Fuses are there to protect a circuit from current levels that could damage the wiring. If a circuit is fused for 7.5 amps, then that is all that the circuit was designed to safely handle. If you're blowing fuses then you are either drawing more current than the circuit was designed for or you have a wiring problem. Either one is dangerous.
Simply installing a bigger fuse in the circuit completely negates the purpose of even having a fuse. Who's to say the wiring won't just melt/catch fire before the higher amperage fuse blows?
If you're blowing fuses due to excessive current draw, then the solution is not to replace your stock fuse with a higher amperage one. What you need to do is install an independent relay harness with heavier gauge wire.
Fuses are there to protect a circuit from current levels that could damage the wiring. If a circuit is fused for 7.5 amps, then that is all that the circuit was designed to safely handle. If you're blowing fuses then you are either drawing more current than the circuit was designed for or you have a wiring problem. Either one is dangerous.
Simply installing a bigger fuse in the circuit completely negates the purpose of even having a fuse. Who's to say the wiring won't just melt/catch fire before the higher amperage fuse blows?
If you're blowing fuses due to excessive current draw, then the solution is not to replace your stock fuse with a higher amperage one. What you need to do is install an independent relay harness with heavier gauge wire.
#43
Racer
iTrader: (1)
The wiring harness in my foglights have a 20A fuse. I upgraded the stock fuse from 10A to 15A which is easy to figure out if you aren't illiterate.
That thread thread barely got a reply lol. I was under the impression that no one was interested and if someone who somehow found the year old thread was and they PM'ed me I would tell them the situation.
Looks like you really like starting trouble for no reason.
That thread thread barely got a reply lol. I was under the impression that no one was interested and if someone who somehow found the year old thread was and they PM'ed me I would tell them the situation.
Looks like you really like starting trouble for no reason.
Please DEAR GOD don't tell me that is what you are trying to say here.
If you have not blown a 7.5 amp fuse yet you are replacing it with a 10 amp fuse to "get more amps" to the reverse lights you are a FUCKING MORON. Sorry but that is just the most retarded thing I have heard suggested in ANY forum anywhere.
The fuse is set to BLOW at 7.5 amps. MEANING if the amps run to the lights goes ABOVE 7.5 amps it will blow the fuse rather than damage Wiring, circuitry or relays. SO if you haven't blown that fuse you are NOT RUNNING MORE THAN 7.5 AMPS TO THE LIGHTS. You can run a jumper wire across the fuse and you WILL NOT UP THE AMPERAGE. Do you really think those tiny fuses are what controls the amount of amps running through your wires? Let me answer you. NO! They only REGULATE it going ABOVE that set amperage.
Now if you are BLOWING fuses and you put a higher amp fuse in that is a different story but that isn't what you are talking about. Still a TERRIBLE idea but totally different.
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sixsixfour (03-02-2013)
#44
Racer
iTrader: (1)
If you had light issues and were not blowing fuses yet putting a 15 amp fuse in your fog light wiring fixed the issue, You sir are crazy and need to get your head checked. That is IMPOSSIBLE. Especially if you are using a relay for your fogs. IF you are using a relay you can trigger that relay with as little as 120 milliAMPS and it will have NO effect on the actual lights as they are getting their power from the battery with no regard to what your fog light "amperage" is. You could then replace your fog light fuse with a 1a fuse and it wouldn't blow.
Ok done with my rant.
Ok done with my rant.
#48
A6 and TL
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New York/Brampton Canada/SoCal
Posts: 1,597
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What you seem to be talking about is that you are NOT blowing fuses but replacing them with a larger fuse to rune "more amps" to the light? Am I getting that correct?
Please DEAR GOD don't tell me that is what you are trying to say here.
If you have not blown a 7.5 amp fuse yet you are replacing it with a 10 amp fuse to "get more amps" to the reverse lights you are a FUCKING MORON. Sorry but that is just the most retarded thing I have heard suggested in ANY forum anywhere.
The fuse is set to BLOW at 7.5 amps. MEANING if the amps run to the lights goes ABOVE 7.5 amps it will blow the fuse rather than damage Wiring, circuitry or relays. SO if you haven't blown that fuse you are NOT RUNNING MORE THAN 7.5 AMPS TO THE LIGHTS. You can run a jumper wire across the fuse and you WILL NOT UP THE AMPERAGE. Do you really think those tiny fuses are what controls the amount of amps running through your wires? Let me answer you. NO! They only REGULATE it going ABOVE that set amperage.
Now if you are BLOWING fuses and you put a higher amp fuse in that is a different story but that isn't what you are talking about. Still a TERRIBLE idea but totally different.
Please DEAR GOD don't tell me that is what you are trying to say here.
If you have not blown a 7.5 amp fuse yet you are replacing it with a 10 amp fuse to "get more amps" to the reverse lights you are a FUCKING MORON. Sorry but that is just the most retarded thing I have heard suggested in ANY forum anywhere.
The fuse is set to BLOW at 7.5 amps. MEANING if the amps run to the lights goes ABOVE 7.5 amps it will blow the fuse rather than damage Wiring, circuitry or relays. SO if you haven't blown that fuse you are NOT RUNNING MORE THAN 7.5 AMPS TO THE LIGHTS. You can run a jumper wire across the fuse and you WILL NOT UP THE AMPERAGE. Do you really think those tiny fuses are what controls the amount of amps running through your wires? Let me answer you. NO! They only REGULATE it going ABOVE that set amperage.
Now if you are BLOWING fuses and you put a higher amp fuse in that is a different story but that isn't what you are talking about. Still a TERRIBLE idea but totally different.
If you had light issues and were not blowing fuses yet putting a 15 amp fuse in your fog light wiring fixed the issue, You sir are crazy and need to get your head checked. That is IMPOSSIBLE. Especially if you are using a relay for your fogs. IF you are using a relay you can trigger that relay with as little as 120 milliAMPS and it will have NO effect on the actual lights as they are getting their power from the battery with no regard to what your fog light "amperage" is. You could then replace your fog light fuse with a 1a fuse and it wouldn't blow.
Ok done with my rant.
Ok done with my rant.
Glad I could amuse you. Cos.
#51
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
No offense to anyone that does this mod, but why in the world would anyone ever waste their time and money installing a full HID kit...ballasts, harness and all for reverse lights?!?!?! I guess I just don't understand it. I mean by the time the HID bulb fully warms up and gets to its normal color, your already done reversing. So not only is it gonna be hard on the bulb and ballast, but would mostly be useless anyway since HID's take a few seconds to fully warm up.
#52
No offense to anyone that does this mod, but why in the world would anyone ever waste their time and money installing a full HID kit...ballasts, harness and all for reverse lights?!?!?! I guess I just don't understand it. I mean by the time the HID bulb fully warms up and gets to its normal color, your already done reversing. So not only is it gonna be hard on the bulb and ballast, but would mostly be useless anyway since HID's take a few seconds to fully warm up.
#53
#54
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
No offense to anyone that does this mod, but why in the world would anyone ever waste their time and money installing a full HID kit...ballasts, harness and all for reverse lights?!?!?! I guess I just don't understand it. I mean by the time the HID bulb fully warms up and gets to its normal color, your already done reversing. So not only is it gonna be hard on the bulb and ballast, but would mostly be useless anyway since HID's take a few seconds to fully warm up.
i did it for reversing in general, the HID light output makes it a breeze to see everything even in the darkest condition. plus, like i said, the tailgater switch is just so much fun when people are riding your ass. cracks me up everytime.
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robocam (04-20-2014)
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justnspace (03-04-2013)
#57
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^well there is your problem. you only need one tint.
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Undying Dreams (05-10-2013)
#59
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
As much as I prefer the HID/LED look for all the bulbs, I don't wanna run reverse HIDs. It seems it's easy to mod an 880/893 style bulb and run that. It's 37 watts instead of 18 but if only run a few seconds at a time...
http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/backup_bulbs.htm
Might be worth a try, I think I have some lying around.
http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/backup_bulbs.htm
Might be worth a try, I think I have some lying around.
#60
blah!
Thread Starter
I installed these last weekend. I'll get some video and photos up.
This is the 15watt HID kit made specifically for the reverse just to confirm.
I ended up having to run a relay because I think the stock reverse harness couldn't handle the amps.
This is the 15watt HID kit made specifically for the reverse just to confirm.
I ended up having to run a relay because I think the stock reverse harness couldn't handle the amps.
#61
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I would have personally gone with the Cree Eagle Eye Tower LED's. They're 12 watts, no warm up period and they'll literally last forever. I have 7.5 watt LED reverse lights in mine and they're WAY brighter than Silverstar bulbs. In fact the Silverstar 194 bulbs I had were dimmer than stock 194 bulbs.
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