Would the Bump Start Method (crank bolt removal) work on a 2006 V6 Honda Accord? Logically, it seems like it would work, but just wanted to make sure that someone has done this before to verify?

 

I bought my 04 in may. The serpentine belt appears to be brand new. Can I take the TB cover off and check if it was already replaced/the condition if it needs to be?

 

You could but majority of us who did the service had belts that looked new when we replaced them. I've seen a member on here go over 200k on the original belt. This is one of those peace of mind services.

 

Yes you can remove the upper timing covers easily to inspect the belt. Just be aware that modern belts don't crack, so inspection isn't really that good of an indication of wear.

 

Awesome write-up. On behalf of all the DIYers, I thank you. I recently did this job on my previous car, an 05 Toyota Solara V6. The process and headaches are almost the same. Keeping the rear cam timing mark aligned properly is the main pain. There is a plastic alignment tool available for the Toyota; there may be one available for the Acura. Two helpful hints from a former mechanic: Mark your timing marks on the gears and the engine block with white paint - makes it easier to see for alingment, and, to break the crankshaft bolt loose, place a heavy duty socket and breaker bar on it. Rest the other end of the bar on a chassis section or against the concrete floor of your garage, and tap the starter ( with the ignition wires disconnected and the fuel pump fuse pulled). That's worked every time we've used it. Years ago, when our family-run auto repair business was in existence, we did quite a few timing belts and chains. I must admit aligning the double-overhead-cam engines was the most difficult. The first time I did my Solara, it ran great, but the "check engine" light stayed on because the rear cam was off by one tooth! By the way, Toyota wanted over $1k to do the timing belt and water pump, without the tune-up. This retiree came out of retirement. Hy

 

FYI, you CAN use the Bump Start Method on a 2006 Honda Accord V6 to remove the Crank bolt. Just did it this weekend.

 

Hi guys, kudoos for all the details!

Can some one please help to provide details on exactly how to perform the bump start method? I read it involved ignition wires and fuel pump fuse, need a bit of help for the procedure in entirety if possible!

Thanks a bunch!

 

Not the fuel pump fuse, the fuel injector fuse: self explanatory...pull it, bump it, replace it

Bump start discussion in this thread,click on this line

 

Just a little FYI:

I just want to confirm that the Gates brand timing belt kits (TCK & TCKWP) are a put together with ALL the same parts as OEM with the exception of the water pump. I'm now 100% sure as I just received the TCKWP kit for my wife's 04 Honda Pilot. It includes Koyo bearings, and Aisin auto-tensioner. Gates/Unitta makes the Honda T-belts, so you know it's good. The water pump is a "gates" brand product (instead of Honda/Yamada), but I trust them as well now that I know they are an OEM supplier.

The kit with the auto-tensioner and water pump (TCKWP) is ~$180 shipped on Rockauto.com with a 5% off code (search google for coupons). Can't beat that price from any Honda/Acura vendor.

 

^^^ hey bro will this kit fit the 2003 Honda Accord ? I can find the link to the kit for 03 Accord's can you help me out ?

 

Gates makes kits for pretty every car.

03 Accord 3.0L V6 = TCKWP329 $165 or TCK329 $76

4-cyl k-series accords don't have a timing belt (chain). Maybe that's why you can't find it?

 

I would also like to add that the bump-start method didn't work for my Pilot. It just stalled the starter. I had to use a breaker with a pipe handle on the pulley holder, and pipe handle over my 3/8" rachet to break the bolt loose.

I just let the breaker/pipe/pulley-holder wedge itself against the ground at an angle away from you. Then pull with all your might on the rachet/pipe and it will bust loose.

 

:FAWK:

yes that is why....thanks a lot bro....

 

Good write up.

 

Has anyone tried the Dayco, Aisin, or the SKF kits? Seems like they are more expensive for whatever reason, does the quality justify the price over the OE stuff?

 

^^^ i have the Aissin pump and it works like a charm....

 

If it's more expensive.. no.

Gates an the other ODM's for Honda, manufacture reliable and proven parts. I haven't heard of a premature failure.. in fact, some guys say they have well over the recommended miles on their parts.

So definitely don't pay more.

 

Hi Majofo, I noticed from your picture of kit inventory that you had a Felpro Crankshaft Front Seal Set, did you end up using it?

Did you purchase other parts which were not included in your original list?

I am also wondering if I should replace the timing cover (or just the seal) or maybe even the crank pulley (maybe for a lighter one).

Cheers

 

nope.. I still don't know where they go.

I only had one camshaft seal as well. Didn't remove cam pulley soooo.. anyone want them? Real cheap..

Regarding the timing covers. The seals should be fine. Obviously if you see a damaged cover / seal you should buy a new cover / seal. Otherwise, clean the covers in and out before replacing them and secure them at the correct torque. The real function of the covers is to keep deer and other large mammals for getting caught in there. It's not like it's level 4 cleanroom in there.

 

Okay, here's one for you more experienced techs out there...

Finished up the tb/wp on my 04 Pilot Sunday. Drove perfectly Sunday night & all Monday. Better/smoother than ever before. Start it up Tuesday morning, and back out of the driveway. Suddenly I get a CEL/VTM light while I'm watching my garage door close. VTM light usually comes on w/ CEL in Pilot (no big deal). Motor is still running perfect. I shut it down and re-start and the VTM stays off, but the CEL is still on (stored codes). Now I'm pissed and second guessing myself. This CEL/VTM light has continued every cold startup except for this afternoon (Wednesday).

So I go to O'Reilly's and get the code reader. I've got 5 separate misfire codes:
- P0304
- P0305
- P0306
- P0300
- P1399

Odd thing is the motor is definitely not misfiring. It's smoother than it was before the new belt. So now I'm wondering if the CKP (crank position sensor) behind may have sustained some damage or contamination or something. I do remember trying to pull the crank cog off, and it was blocked by CKF bracket. Maybe contact between the two did something. Also perhaps having coolant spill over the sensor from the water pump is not so good, I don't know (no such warning in the manual).

So, Does anybody have any input on this one? It's only throwing these codes about 10 to 20 seconds after start-up. Always runs & drives normal.

 

Probably a sensor unplugged. Check the usual suspects. Did you change the plugs?


I doubt you did anything to effect the CKP. It usually gets wet from the water pump removal.. did you spray the area with brake cleaner?

 

No sensors get unplugged during the TB/WP job. I didn't change plugs or use cleaner. I even covered the crank & CPK with a rag when I popped the water pump off.

 

Update? I would check all your coil connections.

 

Well, after that post, I haven't had any returns of CELs. I filled up the tank with fresh fuel and checked all the wired connections. Hopefully all is well.

 

Thanks, that was a great DIY. I did my 1999 TL a couple of weeks ago and the post was very helpful. I just bought the TL with 47K and no maintenance history so I figured I should do the belt right away. The 99 belt tensioner uses a special tool, part number W0133-1633330 that costs about $10 from Honda and would be well worth getting before you start. It is not possible to put a belt on unless you can hold the adjuster all the way retracted. I made a tool, but it would have been much better to have bought one in advance. I understand the newer tensioners use a 6-MM hole to put a bolt in to hold it open. It was easier for me to remove the P/S reservoir and unbolt the pump and push it out of the way. Also, the new thermostat came with the seal oriented 180 degrees out - a good thing to verify. I removed the heater hose that's next to the thermostat, and it was fairly easy to change. Thanks a lot for the help. With a thousand miles on the belt the car runs great.

 

Car has 147K miles, not 47.

 

Majofo, thank you very much for this great DIY write-up. I just completed this project this weekend on my 2005 TL. It really is not as bad a some make it out to be. Just take your time and follow the steps in this write-up and also have the factory service manual available. The crank pully bolt did give me a hard time though. I broke a couple 1/2" extentions before I tried heating it. Once I heated the bolt, it popped with the breaker bar pretty easy. I did the whole timing belt/water pump service as well as new spark plugs, thermostat, adjusted valve lash and new serpentine belt. Whole process took about 15 hours or so over three days. A reasonable amount of time if you ask me for a great learning experience and saving a bunch of money.

I did have a check engine light on, but it was just a connector not fully seated

 

 

am HYPED!!! You guys are BEASTS!!! in a good way...

 

for some reason, i thought you said autozone or its cronies rented the 50mm hex tool, but they dont. is there anywhere i can walk-in and buy it? or anyone in MA/southernNH have one? im on vacation this coming week and i NEED to do this project then. and id rather not pay for lightspeed shipping if i dont have to. plus, im still waiting for a new card from my bank!

 

edit-if you pay the price of the tool, AutoZone will ship it from another store to yours, and you will be reimbursed in full.

 

^ If you are refering to the crank pulley tool then Orielly's have it in stock at most stores.

 

thanks, but no o'reillys in the north east.

 

^^^ Advanced auto parts ?

 

yes, pep boys, advanced auto, az in the area, but no one has it! Ridiculous.

 

I just did this whole procedure last weekend without the hex tool. Wish I knew about the starter bump method. Anyways, I was in Napa this morning and low and behold, there was the fricking hex tool on the wall. Sticker price, $6.78!! FML. I lost 5 hours trying to bust that bolt loose. Give NAPA a call if you have them nearby and see if they'll rent one out. Hope that helps.

 

closest Napa didn't have it, but I only tried one. Do you have a sku or part number or any info on it so I could call around? whonda 50mm hex tool seems to confuse everyone at pep, az, advanced....

thanks for the help. How did the service go for you aside from that?

 

Sure, it is part SER 3970. Click the link below and enter 3970 in the search to view it online.

http://ecatalograck.genpt.com/pdfcat...Code=teq10flx#

Yes, it definitely confuses people at those places. As for the service, it's really quite easy. My 2 cents, if something is in the way, take it out (ie. get that engine mount out of the way as soon as possible). If I were to do it again, I think I could turn it around in about 5 hours total. Now that's without doing the valve clearance check but that DIY is on hold until my gasket sets come in (probably slated for this weekend).

Hope that helps.

 

I understand removing the bolt with the "bump" method, but how are you supposed be able to re-install the bolt without the hex tool?

I would think you need the hex tool no matter what.

 

I used the Haynes manual method for removal and install which is to remove the trans flywheel cover and wedge something in the teeth to hold the rotating assembly still. I do not recommend this for several reasons; 1. It's a bitch to find just the right assortment of tools (screwdrivers, hex-sockets, and needle vise-grips in my case) to lodge in there without getting spit out once you start torqueing on the bolt and, 2. I fear cracking or breaking the trans housing that said tools are bracing against. At $6-7, I'll buy the tool for you to do this the right way.