THANKS!!! used this write up today as well...

 

Just a point of reference. I had my pressure switches changed and although the down shifts and lunges subsided some they were still there. I strongly recommend addressing your transmission oil very closely or at the same time as you change your switches.

I changed my switches first (had them switched out by our very own Practice89) and the car settled down enough for my wife to notice but the car was still a little rough with the gear shifts. A week later I did a 1x1 flush and the fluid was very dark. After the initial flush the car drove smoother but still she would still drive a little rough. I waited another week and did the second flush and BAM!! Tight, smooth and eager to please!

For the record, I did my first and second flush with Z1 since my car with 115k has only seen this fluid since it was purchased and after seeing the wonderful improvements using the Z1 fluid I am now going to take it a step further and introduce a mixture of Redline Light and Type F. I will probably go with 2/3 light and 1/3 Type F. Then after one week of spirited driving, I will proceed to mix 2/3 Type F and then 1/3 Light. If all goes well after 2 weeks of spirited driving, I will then decide if I want to stay put or go all out with the Type F.

In short, if you change out the switches, do yourself a favor and address your transmission oil situation. It made the most difference to me or maybe it was the combination of both issues being addressed. I hope this helps some of you out there.

 

Thank you for the great info and pics!!! I just ordered:
28610-RAY-003
28600-RAY-003
x2 sealing gasket (90471-PW7-A00)

for my 2006 TL. I'll be getting some of the Red Line Racing ATF as well and do the 3x3 flush at the same time.

I've been experiencing the longer hold and rough bump into 3rd gear for a few weeks now and was concerned. I've got almost 60K miles and had just done the 1 time ATF fluid flush with the last oil change. Looks like once I swap out the switches and the fluid all should be good to go! Thanks again!

 

Replacing the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switch, the tranny filter, spring & replacing the tranny fluid with Amsoil ATF really do make a difference. The car shifts gears a lot smoother that than before

 

I just did the third pressure sensor replacement in my 07.

Initial impression: Shifts a lot smoother. I mean ALOT. On the freeway when I downshift to 3rd, I hardly notice the shift, smooth as butter.

I was going to do the 4th pressure switch today too but it has defeated me. I can't for the life get that whatever you need to get out of the way to access the sensor. Oh well another day.

 

You shouldn't have to remove any piece to get to the 4th sensor. The 3rd sensor is the one with the plastic cover...

Can anyone confirm this?

 

First let's make sure you are talking about 07 - 08 TL, because the location for the sensors is very different from 04 - 06,

The 3rd gear sensor is the one I had to access through the driver side fender. I had to take off my bumper and use a 12" extension to reach it.

As for the 4th (accessed through the engine bay), there's one under the CAI, according to the service manual I have to remove some other part, but I couldn't figure out how to do it.

 

Ah, good catch! I thought only the Type S's had different locations (i.e. 2 3rd gear switches)...

 

It would be really helpful if you could take pictures when you replace them We need a thorough DIY for 07-08 models.

 

I was thinking of doing a video DIY... I'll go for it when I do my 4th gear switch, need to take off my bumper anyway, might as well do a "mock" install just to show you guys where to access the damn thing.

 

Page 5 post 195 and reposted again in page 6 post 224 I think. There was some confusion as to the switches for the 07's but I think they finally came to a verdict of 1 3rd gear switch and 2 4th gear switches.

1 of #13 28600-RKE-004
2 of #14 28610-RKE-004.

 

Sorry typo shoulda typed in.

2 of #13 28600-RKE-004
1 of #14 28610-RKE-004

My apologies

 

i know about the switches i just think 07-08 folks would appreciate a thorough DIY guide. Couple pages ago a person took pictures of where the switches are located but never really show how to access them and how to take them out or put them back in.

 

Long time reader here - beneficiary of many past DIY's (so thanks for all of those).

Question: My wife's 2002 MDX (107,000 miles) seems to have skipped the shudder period, and progressed straight to slippage.

Driving with light or medium or heavy throttle, it shifts from 1st to 2nd just fine. At the shiftpoint to 3rd, it revs up and freewheels.

If you let off the throttle, and let the rpm's drop below 2000, and then step on the gas again, it engages in 3rd and goes.

I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear sensors tonight (as per this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149 ). I have NOT switched ATF - still full of Z1.

There's no difference in the shifting. Still revs up at the 3rd gear shift point. Still catches and goes when I drop the rpm.

Does this sound as if I'm simply too late? Any point in trying the switch to Type F? Or is the clutch pack simply too worn out to handle the power of a shift at more than idle-rpm's?

Thanks.

 

Maybe I'm wrong but I think what you are referring to sounds like full blown transmission failure. Put the old switches back on and take it to the dealership.

It sounds similar to when my CL have the trans crap out. Mine dropped from 5th to 2nd and after that I essentially had the same issues you are describing now. Late shift from 2nd to 3rd. A couple days of that and the VSA light came on. Transmission was toast. There really wasn't any warning. Are you the original owner and have it been in for the transmission recall?

Check the recall docs for more details.

 

I think i may need to change these switches. My gears rarely change smoothly and from time to time i hear big "clunk". I cant recall which gears this happens but I want to say 3rd to 4th.

Is it as simple as changing these switches or could it be something more serious? What kind of symptoms are others experiencing besides what ppl are calling "shuddering"? Thanks.

 

Dang!

I just did this DIY for my wife's 05 TL. I didn't read the entire thread and used x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)

instead of
04-06 TL (Texas Instruments, TI)
28610-RAY-003
28600-RAY-003


I haven't noticed any difference in shifts. How long can I leave these in the car before I need to replace them? I'd like to at least get a bit of use out of them.

Geez, I wish that Acurazine had an edit function. Or delete. The first post in this thread really needs to have the correct part numbers listed.
And yes, there was a physical difference between the old and new switches.

 

I plan on doing mine tomorrow.

Recommendation for anyone with an 07-08 that is planning on doing these switches....Get a deep 7/8 socket first. You will need it to remove the switches. Unless I an going about it wrong or have extremely large forearms I need a socket to remove them.

I will take pics when I do mine as well.

 

jlhln

 

is this the same with the SType?

 

yayyy may the force be with you LOL

 

kind of a noob question but does this DIY method transfer over to the 2nd gen type s? since they have a similar transmission, and failure issue

 

I used the information that was posted by JDM RICe. His pics are a lot better than mine so I stole some of them.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=195

Parts and Tools Needed/Recommended:

2 x 28600-RKE-004
1 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00
10 mm Socket
7/8 Deep Socket
Screwdrivers
Breaker Bar (PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN USING BREAKER BAR)

I started with the sensor on the bottom of the transmission.

I accessed the sensor through the driver side wheel well. Remove tire. Please use jack stands for support.



Once the cover was moved you will see a wire harness and a couple plugs.



I unplugged the ones marked above and when you move the harness out of the way you will see the sensor.



Be careful when removing the sensor. I used a deep 7/8 socket and a 16 inch extension. I did not need to use a breaker bar for this sensor. When you remove the sensor there will be some transmission fluid that leaks out. Wipe clean before replacing the sensor.

DO NOT FORGET THE GASKET.



Plug everything back in and DOUBLE CHECK before mounting the wheel and lowering your car.

Second one I did was the one under the intake. Removing the intake is simple. My pics sucked again.

This one was very simple. I did not need to remove the 10 mm bolts above, but it will not hurt to remove them. Again I used a 7/8 deep socket and a 3 inch extension. I did use a breaker bar for this one.

The last one I did was the sensor in the back of the transmission.



I removed the hose in the image below to get a bit more room to get my hands down to the sensor. It is tough to see in the pics but that sensor is about 12 inches from the top of the engine.



Overall it took me about 2 hours to replace the three sensors. I also did a 1x3 this weekend.

I drove about 150 miles since I replaced the fluid and the sensors. The up and down shifting is a lot smoother than before. When I floor it the shifting is a lot cleaner. I have 2 long road trips this week and I will have a better chance to test it out.

I also realized that I need to learn how to use my camera better.

 

I have put about 600 miles on since I swapped the fluids and switches. Car shifts great. No issues what so ever. I drove part of that in traffic and the shifting 1 through 5 is very fluid. Down shifting is also a lot better.

I am very pleased with the improvements.

I have another 350 mile trip tomorrow with a bit more stop and go traffic.

 

Update

I have put about 35,000 miles on since I swapped the fluids and switches. Car shifts great. No issues whatsoever. Shifting is much more fluid than before and I have not experienced the shudder that had occurred a few times prior to my switch/fluid swap.

I am very pleased with the improvements.

I have another 50,000 miles to drive over the next couple years and hopefully it goes smoothly.

 

I just purchased the switches for my 08 Type-S.

2x 28600-rke-004
1x 28610-rke-004

Had about 2 hours to work on the car today but once I started looking for the switches, I realized this job will easily take my over 2 hours. I don't know how some of you guys are doing it so quickly....guess i'm just mechanically retarded.

 

Would this apply to any Honda/Acura? My Acura TSX's transmission has gotten sloppy recently.. and I see two pressure switches in the parts list. About $45 list price online.

 

The position of the switches would likely be different.

 

sorry to be confused here. But still looking to see what the correct part numbers are for the 06 TL.... I didnt get this done when I originally posted, but really need to now before I start to have trouble.

 

so for us 07-08 guys, where is the part where you have to remove the front bumper? All that guy did was removed the wheel and fender lining.

 

Ruby - you do not need to remove the front bumper to get to the lower switch.

 

I don't know how he manage to get to the switch just through the wheel well. For a clear line of sight, I removed the front bumper

 

I think you are right. It is a lot easier to access without the bumper. I just didn't want to go through the hassle. I recommend you locate the switch at the bottom then mark it with something. I used a stick for position. When you remove the wheel and cover the stick will point to the switch. You do have to weave your hands in there a bit.

 

got my switches ordered, cant wait to change them out and see if there is much difference.

I have not experienced any problems as of yet with my tranny, other than the switching between gears. Its not silky smooth, but not a big clunk at all.

either way. preventive maintenance is worth while.

 

I GUESS MY BABY GOT HER SWAGGER BACK!!! changed all 3 gear switches, did 1x1 tranny oil change (Amsoil ATF)...took about 4 hrs due to taking time and having big hands and it being difficult to remove cup-links. Test drive and what a difference, quicker, smoother no stutter.....will do 1x1 next week....thanks JDM RICe and RaviNJCLs for the great DIY!!!!! I love this site....

 

Good news.

Did you have to remove your front bumper or did you use the method I used? If you did what I did then maybe you have a better way of describing how to access it.

 

I have a 08 Base TL with 25K miles. I don't notice any shifting issues, should I change these switches now or wait till I do my scheduled tranny fluid change?

 

Would the dealer be willing to do this for me? (me paying of course)

 

Yes, I was quoted around 350....

 

If you have the original Honda ATF-Z1 fluid then you may want to push that service up a bit. I would do a 3x3 over a couple weeks first. If you are not noticing any shifting issues I would leave the switches alone. I did mine because of a couple reasons.

1. Mileage. I was at 82K miles on my 08 when I changed the switches. And I had already done two 1x3 fluid swap.
2. I did have a slight issue with a harsh up shift. That is completely gone after the last 1x3 and replacing the switches.
3. Downshift. While my car downshifts a lot smoother I still hate the brake logic/brake assist system. Replacing these does nothing for that.