A-110(b): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2007-2008)
#42
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^^^ i used a 7/8" wrench and it worked just fine
#44
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ordered my sensors/gaskets today...who want's to help me install these?
ravi...?
ravi...?
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SharksBreath (01-27-2012)
#46
Intermediate
[QUOTE=swoosh;13510439]^^^ i used a 7/8" wrench and it worked just fine [/QUOTE
I highly doubt that, kind sir. There is no way that you can get your hand and a wrench through the wheel well to gain access, let alone around the sensor to turn it. Can't go under the cross member for access, either.
I highly doubt that, kind sir. There is no way that you can get your hand and a wrench through the wheel well to gain access, let alone around the sensor to turn it. Can't go under the cross member for access, either.
#47
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[quote=Paul91;13512398]
He's got an 05.
^^^ i used a 7/8" wrench and it worked just fine [/QUOTE
I highly doubt that, kind sir. There is no way that you can get your hand and a wrench through the wheel well to gain access, let alone around the sensor to turn it. Can't go under the cross member for access, either.
I highly doubt that, kind sir. There is no way that you can get your hand and a wrench through the wheel well to gain access, let alone around the sensor to turn it. Can't go under the cross member for access, either.
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swoosh (01-27-2012)
#48
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Thank you Ravi
Sorry about that dude....yeah i didnt check if the thread was 04-06/07-08....i just posted that the wrench worked just fine....
Sorry about that dude....yeah i didnt check if the thread was 04-06/07-08....i just posted that the wrench worked just fine....
#51
idk how good you are, but for the one under the airbox, i couldnt get it out without 2 short extensions and a lil joint to help out with the angle haah... besides that n the deep socket for sure, your good to go!!
the one between the tubes in teh back on the firewall side is a piece of cake if you remove the bar connecting the shocks on each side of the car. the socket slips right in between the two tubes and theres plenty of room to maneuver with just the deep socket.
the one in the driverside wheel well i took the wheel off and moved the plastic cover to the side. that one was the hardest to unplug but access was also easy with the wheel and plastic out of the way. i recommend pushing the release button on the plug and sticking a lil flat tip where the plug meets teh sensor and just twist it a lil and it should pop... pushing the button and just pulling with my hands was hard as hell and didnt wanna come out for NOTHING!!
i saved and combined the two diys for our years to a word file that i'll post tomorrow at work if i remember
... good luck bro!! hope everything turns out smoothly for ya
the one between the tubes in teh back on the firewall side is a piece of cake if you remove the bar connecting the shocks on each side of the car. the socket slips right in between the two tubes and theres plenty of room to maneuver with just the deep socket.
the one in the driverside wheel well i took the wheel off and moved the plastic cover to the side. that one was the hardest to unplug but access was also easy with the wheel and plastic out of the way. i recommend pushing the release button on the plug and sticking a lil flat tip where the plug meets teh sensor and just twist it a lil and it should pop... pushing the button and just pulling with my hands was hard as hell and didnt wanna come out for NOTHING!!
i saved and combined the two diys for our years to a word file that i'll post tomorrow at work if i remember
... good luck bro!! hope everything turns out smoothly for ya
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Jrad96TL (02-06-2017)
#54
Intermediate
Id really like to find out for sure which one is for 3rd gear. This way I could change that one first and if there's a noticable change I will post my finding so that it may help others. It sounds logical tha the two same part numbers would be for th same gear but just because there are two of the same part numbers doesnt mean they have to be for the same gear does it?
Anyone know for sure?
Anyone know for sure?
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JCash23 (06-25-2022)
#55
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#57
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^^^ good edit Sharky LOL....but gotta help the newbie....you remember we all asked the same questions around 8K post back LOL (not really but you see my point ?)
To explain about the siwtches:
The pressure switches, come into play when you switch from a gear to another....these switches are activated at a certain PSI (pressure)....so when that pressure is reached, the gear changes....I think the 3rd gear was like 28psi....
Example: so if you driving in "D" and you cross say 25mph on 1/2 throttle the line pressure reaches 28mph and hence the gear changes from 3rd to 4th....sometimes there is "gear hang"...which is one gear hangs in there for tooo long....this is due to old pressure switches....
I tried to use the simplest words possible for you newbies.....read couple pages of this thread for a more technical understanding
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/very-interesting-conversation-my-transmission-builder-tl-721508/
To explain about the siwtches:
The pressure switches, come into play when you switch from a gear to another....these switches are activated at a certain PSI (pressure)....so when that pressure is reached, the gear changes....I think the 3rd gear was like 28psi....
Example: so if you driving in "D" and you cross say 25mph on 1/2 throttle the line pressure reaches 28mph and hence the gear changes from 3rd to 4th....sometimes there is "gear hang"...which is one gear hangs in there for tooo long....this is due to old pressure switches....
I tried to use the simplest words possible for you newbies.....read couple pages of this thread for a more technical understanding
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/very-interesting-conversation-my-transmission-builder-tl-721508/
#58
Intermediate
I've been lurking around the site for a while now. Tons of great information. If this is true about only one (1) 3rd gear switch I assume its the one behind the tire since its the part number that only one (1) is required. Anyone else confirm this?
I have a 2007 TLS with 97,000 miles on it and I don't think the fluid was ever changed. It was a company car that I drove since it had 29,000 miles on it. They took care of all maintenance on the car but I don't ever remember them doing the trans fluid. I got laid off and ended up buying the car from the company for a great deal $10,000. The car seems to shift fine but 2nd to 3rd is a slightly different feel (split second lag) than 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Truthfully I'm not sure if it hasn't shifted this way since I had it but after reading hundreds of trans threads it got me thinking. I was going to just change the 3rd gear switch and fluid change to see if it makes a difference.
Thanks for all the info
I have a 2007 TLS with 97,000 miles on it and I don't think the fluid was ever changed. It was a company car that I drove since it had 29,000 miles on it. They took care of all maintenance on the car but I don't ever remember them doing the trans fluid. I got laid off and ended up buying the car from the company for a great deal $10,000. The car seems to shift fine but 2nd to 3rd is a slightly different feel (split second lag) than 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Truthfully I'm not sure if it hasn't shifted this way since I had it but after reading hundreds of trans threads it got me thinking. I was going to just change the 3rd gear switch and fluid change to see if it makes a difference.
Thanks for all the info
Brew- I confirmed yesterday that the two sensors accessed through the engine bay are for 4th gear (#28600-RKE-004), and the one below that is accessed through the drivers' side wheel well is pn# 28610-RKE-004. They are also color coded. The two up top for 4th gear are white, and the one below for 3rd gear is black. I know for a fact that these had never been changed before on my car, so the originals that I pulled out matched in color.
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JRhodes88 (02-10-2012)
#61
Got my parts. going to tackle this on my 07 type s soon. I noticed 3rd and 4th hang a little and are a little slow. I hope instead of sitting at 50mph while cruising at higher rpms it will shift quicker
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JCash23 (06-25-2022)
#62
Intermediate
So due to your confirmation we should be ordering...
1 x 28600-RKE-004
2 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00
Is that correct then? If so maybe Ravin should update first post...
#64
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There is one under the air box.
The third one is accessed through the back side of the engine between the engine and firewall. That one is the toughest to photograph but probably the easiest to replace.
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JCash23 (09-04-2022)
#65
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I think thats b/s.. when I was shopping for a TL I brought one into my shop for a pre-sale inspection that had no CEL lights on and they found 3 stored. The car came from an auto broker so I wasn't surprised.
So due to your confirmation we should be ordering...
1 x 28600-RKE-004
2 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00
Is that correct then? If so maybe Ravin should update first post...
So due to your confirmation we should be ordering...
1 x 28600-RKE-004
2 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00
Is that correct then? If so maybe Ravin should update first post...
Last edited by KaMLuNg; 02-22-2012 at 01:49 PM.
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AMSMiTH (02-22-2012)
#66
Intermediate
Thank you for clarifying!
So after a few days and plenty of hours of reading on AZ I've bought plenty of Red Line ATF, gear pressure switches, and the fuel pump o-ring. That's a good start on preventive maintenance after only owning my TL for 10 days
Thanks to everyone who helped input all of this knowledge!
So after a few days and plenty of hours of reading on AZ I've bought plenty of Red Line ATF, gear pressure switches, and the fuel pump o-ring. That's a good start on preventive maintenance after only owning my TL for 10 days
Thanks to everyone who helped input all of this knowledge!
#69
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^youre correct. his pic is correct.
#71
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^its visible from the top of the engine. you reach straight down below the strut bar area. I found that that was actually one of the easier ones to access.
check out the pictures posted in the DIY. it'll show you what to move to get access to it.
check out the pictures posted in the DIY. it'll show you what to move to get access to it.
#73
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#74
I just finished my first 1x3 at 85,000 miles and replaced all 3 switches on my 2007 type s. Took about 45 minutes for all of it. Feels good to have done and thanks for this DIY!! I just used oem tranny fluid for my car from the dealer
#75
How is the shift quality? Major improvement?
#76
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It shifts a lot better. I felt that as you accelerate you do not feel the shifts as much and I also felt that there was not any hesitation to shift. The best way I could describe it was that the transmission shifted cleaner.
#77
Burning Brakes
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Car details:
2008 Acura TL-S with 64xxx miles
Thanks for the DIY, I performed it this morning and here goes some tips and troubles I had.
1. It was a pain in the ASS to remove the connector from each one of the switches, I don't think I have girly weak fingers, but damn maybe I do! I had to use a flathead screw driver to leverage it out while pushing down on the release on the 4th gear switches.
2. I had to remove the strut bar in order to remove the connector from the back 4th gear switch, it gave me a lot of room and it was only 6 12mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts to remove the strut bar. The only thing is I lost one of the 12mm bolts in back of the engine, called the dealership's parts and they'll have one for me tomorrow.
3. When doing the side 4th gear switch I had to remove the ground wire, the bracket for the fuse box AND the 2 10mm nuts and move that plate aside, I have no idea how the hell OP was able to do this without removing those things, props to you!
Overall it was easy but time consuming. Thanks OP for the DIY, it was very helpful. I did not have to use a breaker bar for any of the switches. After I changed the switches I did a 1x3 with 2 bottles of Redline Racing ATF and 1 bottle of Redline D4. I previously had performed a 2x3 with 6 bottles of Redline Racing ATF a few months ago.
So far the shifts feel slightly better, down shifting is less jerky than it used to be and up shifting still has a little jerk to it but not as bad as it used to be. I'll drive some more and report back if anything changes.
2008 Acura TL-S with 64xxx miles
Thanks for the DIY, I performed it this morning and here goes some tips and troubles I had.
1. It was a pain in the ASS to remove the connector from each one of the switches, I don't think I have girly weak fingers, but damn maybe I do! I had to use a flathead screw driver to leverage it out while pushing down on the release on the 4th gear switches.
2. I had to remove the strut bar in order to remove the connector from the back 4th gear switch, it gave me a lot of room and it was only 6 12mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts to remove the strut bar. The only thing is I lost one of the 12mm bolts in back of the engine, called the dealership's parts and they'll have one for me tomorrow.
3. When doing the side 4th gear switch I had to remove the ground wire, the bracket for the fuse box AND the 2 10mm nuts and move that plate aside, I have no idea how the hell OP was able to do this without removing those things, props to you!
Overall it was easy but time consuming. Thanks OP for the DIY, it was very helpful. I did not have to use a breaker bar for any of the switches. After I changed the switches I did a 1x3 with 2 bottles of Redline Racing ATF and 1 bottle of Redline D4. I previously had performed a 2x3 with 6 bottles of Redline Racing ATF a few months ago.
So far the shifts feel slightly better, down shifting is less jerky than it used to be and up shifting still has a little jerk to it but not as bad as it used to be. I'll drive some more and report back if anything changes.
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JCash23 (06-25-2022)
#78
07 WDP TL Type S
are there any members in the Boston, MA area that wanna help me out with this? I would still have no idea what I was doing if i tried it. Can compensate with $$ or
#79
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^^^ if that includes the switches, that is an AWESOME deal