07' Type-S Brakes
07-24-2007, 09:52 PM
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07' Type-S Brakes
I've got right at 13k miles on my kbp. I just noticed last week though that when I slow down to a stop that I'm hearing a squeeky sound coming from my front passenger brakes. I had to go to the dealership this week so I waited. I dropped it off two days ago and just got the call from my service advisor that everything that I had came in for was fixed but he said the brakes are normal. He said that they are brembo brakes and it is expected. I think that is bullshit because it just recently started happening. I'm thinking it the pads but for the mileage it just sounds lame for the car. I previously had an 06' tl for 6 months and I put about 20k miles on that and I never had a problem like this. Just seeing if anyone has the same problme or has had the same problem. Maybe someone could help me out and tell me that this is to be expected or the acura dealership is jerking me around.
07-25-2007, 10:57 AM
#4
If you find yourself using the brakes to sloooooooowly drag the car to a stop in traffic or town- instead of using them to reduce speed in segments- you MAY have overheated the pads and glazed them
did the tech actually pull the pads and visually inspect?
if they were glassy- a hi speed rebed is in order to clean and condition the pads and rotors again
did the tech actually pull the pads and visually inspect?
if they were glassy- a hi speed rebed is in order to clean and condition the pads and rotors again
07-25-2007, 05:10 PM
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I just got it back today and so far no squeaks. The service advisor said that it may have been due to the brake dust. He said they machined the rotors too. I hope this works. Does anyone else here think that sqeeky brakes with the brembos is normal? I sure as hell don't. I haven't heard anyone with the type-s complain yet about this. Anyways we will see.
07-25-2007, 05:48 PM
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whats up man. Good to see you're putting some miles on the TypeS. Surprisingly we haven't ran across one another on the road!
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07-25-2007, 10:37 PM
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Mine is also squealing.. only the passenger front. I only have 3k miles. But they only squeal when I apply the brakes lightly at a slow speed, like pulling into the garage.
07-25-2007, 11:01 PM
#10
The Brembos really need to be used hard to keep the pads properly cleaned
dragging the brakes lightly to stop is against the design intent!
dragging the brakes lightly to stop is against the design intent!
07-26-2007, 03:24 AM
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not exactly squeaky sound, but sometimes a clanky one in slow speed stop .... normally I don't brake hard at all & maybe it's time to do that once in a while to get it fully break in?
07-26-2007, 03:40 AM
#12
see this procedure courtesy of MrHeelToe
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Brake Pad Bed-in Procedure, recommended by Heeltoe
07/12/07 at 10:38:19
First it is important to know what pads you have, and what they are capable of. Heeltoe Automotive recommends Hawk Racing pads. Find out more about the differences in pads under product descriptions on Heeltoeauto.com
The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the Racingbrake Website.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+
After installing new brake pads, confirm pedal pressure before driving car. On an open road with no traffic, make 6-10 heavy slow-downs, NOT complete stops, from 30-10 mph then fast accelleration and repeat with increasing pedal effort/brake effort each time until just shy of ABS activation. The idea is to heat and maintain that heat in the pads and rotors during the procedure.
On an open road with no traffic, make an additional 2 to 3 hard slows from approximately 45 mph to 5 mph applying firm pressure. Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Engagement of ABS or threshold braking is not required.
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down by cruising at normal speeds.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.
Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT!
Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Brake Pad Bed-in Procedure, recommended by Heeltoe
07/12/07 at 10:38:19
First it is important to know what pads you have, and what they are capable of. Heeltoe Automotive recommends Hawk Racing pads. Find out more about the differences in pads under product descriptions on Heeltoeauto.com
The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the Racingbrake Website.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+
After installing new brake pads, confirm pedal pressure before driving car. On an open road with no traffic, make 6-10 heavy slow-downs, NOT complete stops, from 30-10 mph then fast accelleration and repeat with increasing pedal effort/brake effort each time until just shy of ABS activation. The idea is to heat and maintain that heat in the pads and rotors during the procedure.
On an open road with no traffic, make an additional 2 to 3 hard slows from approximately 45 mph to 5 mph applying firm pressure. Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Engagement of ABS or threshold braking is not required.
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down by cruising at normal speeds.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.
Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT!
Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.
07-26-2007, 06:02 AM
#13
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about 7k miles now, no squeaks. Worst though, every time i break and hit like a small bump, my abs hits. ABS has been messing me up badly.. I can't break at high speeds without getting a heart attack.
07-26-2007, 07:38 AM
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I have about 12,400 miles on my 07 tl-s and they were beging to slighty screech a bit when stopping. Thanks to the stupid bitch who didn't yield to me, If they continue to screech after my repairs I'll take it to the shop and have them replace them as part of the accident.
07-26-2007, 10:47 AM
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I just bought my TL-S KBP and they were vibrating like crazy. I sent it to the shop and they said they're going to replace all 4. Crazy! Can brembos go bad quickly?
07-26-2007, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ACCURATEin
whats up man. Good to see you're putting some miles on the TypeS. Surprisingly we haven't ran across one another on the road!
What's up bro! Yeah I know. We need to get together for a shoot or something. Its crazy because I'm always on the go. You must be in school when I'm but uncc or working. Are you still out on s. blvd?
07-26-2007, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aznjeep
Mine is also squealing.. only the passenger front. I only have 3k miles. But they only squeal when I apply the brakes lightly at a slow speed, like pulling into the garage.
Exact same squeal as I was having. I just picked my car up yesterday and they machined both front rotors and applied some glaze to them. So far so good. They told me to keep the wheels super clean because of the brake dust build up. They get so damn dirty way to fast.
07-26-2007, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
see this procedure courtesy of MrHeelToe
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Brake Pad Bed-in Procedure, recommended by Heeltoe
07/12/07 at 10:38:19
First it is important to know what pads you have, and what they are capable of. Heeltoe Automotive recommends Hawk Racing pads. Find out more about the differences in pads under product descriptions on Heeltoeauto.com
The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the Racingbrake Website.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+
After installing new brake pads, confirm pedal pressure before driving car. On an open road with no traffic, make 6-10 heavy slow-downs, NOT complete stops, from 30-10 mph then fast accelleration and repeat with increasing pedal effort/brake effort each time until just shy of ABS activation. The idea is to heat and maintain that heat in the pads and rotors during the procedure.
On an open road with no traffic, make an additional 2 to 3 hard slows from approximately 45 mph to 5 mph applying firm pressure. Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Engagement of ABS or threshold braking is not required.
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down by cruising at normal speeds.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.
Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT!
Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Brake Pad Bed-in Procedure, recommended by Heeltoe
07/12/07 at 10:38:19
First it is important to know what pads you have, and what they are capable of. Heeltoe Automotive recommends Hawk Racing pads. Find out more about the differences in pads under product descriptions on Heeltoeauto.com
The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the Racingbrake Website.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+
After installing new brake pads, confirm pedal pressure before driving car. On an open road with no traffic, make 6-10 heavy slow-downs, NOT complete stops, from 30-10 mph then fast accelleration and repeat with increasing pedal effort/brake effort each time until just shy of ABS activation. The idea is to heat and maintain that heat in the pads and rotors during the procedure.
On an open road with no traffic, make an additional 2 to 3 hard slows from approximately 45 mph to 5 mph applying firm pressure. Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Engagement of ABS or threshold braking is not required.
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down by cruising at normal speeds.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.
Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT!
Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.
Great information. I did not know they had a procedure on settling them in. I guess it is too late for that since I've got aroung 13k on them so far.
07-26-2007, 12:49 PM
#20
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I got under 3k on my type s... No breaking problems... except I am still use to teh vibration from the 350z's non brembo ceramic brakes... So if I brake like I used to in my old car the tl-s stops way quicker... I love the brakes and since I live in NYC constantly have to brake hard to get around dumb drivers
07-26-2007, 12:54 PM
#21
Its never to late to re-bed the brakes
Do a series of 5-6 slow downs as in above procedure- except the numbers are
70ish-30mph
that will clean off the rotors and set a new layer of material- instant noise fixer-try it!
Do a series of 5-6 slow downs as in above procedure- except the numbers are
70ish-30mph
that will clean off the rotors and set a new layer of material- instant noise fixer-try it!
07-26-2007, 12:55 PM
#22
brembo blanks- I went thru 3 sets of them for the maxima and each was warped right out of the box
any new part can have problem or fail soon after install
any new part can have problem or fail soon after install
07-26-2007, 01:03 PM
#23
Light squealing every once in a while is normal (especially in reverse since the pads are directional). We've got it in 05 TL 6MT (with revised 07 TL-S pads), my buddies WRX STi, his previous Evo, and his dads G35 Sport Coupe. If the squealing is easily repeatable and happens very often, then something may be wrong. I would first try a re-bed of the pads like 01tl4tl said, and if that doesn't work take it in...
07-26-2007, 02:51 PM
#24
A little brake caliper grease never hurts
Most cars have been thru the carwash enough times to have dispensed with the OE grease
and pulling the pads on brembos is easy
Putting a little grease on the pad back, between those 4 mighty pistons and the backing plate can do wonders to cure noises
Most cars have been thru the carwash enough times to have dispensed with the OE grease
and pulling the pads on brembos is easy
Putting a little grease on the pad back, between those 4 mighty pistons and the backing plate can do wonders to cure noises
07-26-2007, 05:22 PM
#26
Hang in there! they will!~!!
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