alright so i've seen the DIY for the 04-06 pressure switch, but my car is a 08. from what i hear, the 07-08 have different switch locations, as well as two 3rd gear switches instead of one.

well i found this post by a member here showing it for a 07-08 along with pictures. have a look here https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=195

my question is

1. is that picture of a TYPE-S 07-08 or base? pretty much i'm just wondering if the 07-08 BASE and TYPE-S have the same switch locations.
2. i have a aftermarket injen CAI installed. by looking at the very first picture of his post, it looks like my CAI will get in the way of one of the sensors. is this do-able without removing my CAI?

 

#1 doesn't matter because it's the same Transmission case and sensor locations.

 

thanks, now i'm just wondering if i'll have to remove my aftermarket CAI.

the guide says to remove the stock airbox, so i'm assuming i need to. i would just like to know for sure before i end up taking my bumper off and un bolting my CAI, only to find out there is another way around it.

 

In the thread you linked there's a picture a page or so later of someone with an Injen CAi discussing access to the 4th gear switch.

 

i have an aem v2 cai. u do not need to remove the intake. believe me u have A LOT of room because you have an intake. with the stock airbox, u have to remove it, but the cold air intake gives u so much more room. and btw the 07-08 base and type s have the same transmission. good luck with the switches

 

just to be sure about the part numbers of the switches, are the switches the same?I mean Base and Type S.

here the part#
28600-RKE-004 (2) and 28610-RKE-004 (1)

 

To get to the 3rd pressure switch, you will need to remove the filter from your aftermarket CAI. But that's easy.

I have tried to get to the 4th pressure switch, but have trouble, I had to remove my CAI. But then I was stuck... I didn't know how to remove the other part that gets in the way...

 

Take pics for the rest of us.

 

I'll do it when I decide to try the 4th gear switch again. I don't feel like taking off my bumper at the moment.

 

i have pics in my transmission issue thread. its got pics of all the sensors and areas around it

 

I replaced my 3rd pressure switch about 1 month ago. I haven't done the 4th ones yet. Looking at your other threads... looks like you messed up on something and your transmission is acting weird?

So far for me so good, no slipping nothing out of the ordinary.

Oh btw, for the 4th gear switch that's on the side of the transmission, did you have to move that large metal piece over the sensor out of the way to access it? I am not sure which bolt to unscrew.

 

no i dont believe i had to remove anything, I just had to reach far down for it! having small hands will help!

 

Back from the dead!

 

Is this necessary to do on a 07/08? You'd think Honda corrected this issue in 07.

 

^why would you think that?

yes i would go ahead and do this on your car.

 

Because they put in a redesigned transmission for 07 based on the RL after realizing prior years were having issues. I would assume the redesign would require different sensors? I guess I can't correlate that they determined the sensors were an identified issue, but c'mon Honda, I would hope "lazy sensors" were associated with the prior 07 years...

This isn't a blatant issue across their whole spectrum of cars and transmission failure in the 07/08 years seems to be rather nonexistent (based off of searching/reading on this forum).

I guess I would rather not dig into transmission sensors if we can conclude the issue has been resolved.

(don't worry Sharks, I copied this post before hitting submit to make sure everything goes A-Okay)

 

These sensors work off pressure. Over time the sensors gets out of calibration

 

I have an 08 and did all 3 a few months ago, it was fairly inexpensive and didn't take long to do and It did make a difference. And its totally worth having the pice of mind too.

 

I just did these on my 08 Base. I paid $120 (1 hr) labor to a local shop. After the job was done they told me they should have charged 1.5 LoL.

Anyways, I've only driven about 30 mins but I can definitely say this made a difference. The trans never slipped but it would lurch a bit between 3rd & 4th, 5th to 4th. Note it seems normal and smooth.

Thank you guys!

 

New user and this is my first post. I want to apologize if this post is in the wrong place. Ive read up on a couple topics and decided to change the pressure switches while doing and are flush. I have a base 08 TL @ 75k. Long story short, I didn't use a torch wrench and broke off the sensor. Is anybody as dumb as I am and have had to deal with this problem? It was dark and tried to snap a couple pics. What thinking about trying an easy out/ left hand drill, but idk if I even can or if I feel safe about it. Any advice or help would be much appreciated

 

https://imgur.com/a/kjhYs

 

Sorry, can't fix cars or Internet, lol

https://i.imgur.com/vugopAW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c5Faizx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X7Sa9vp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YNVJKMF.jpg

 

New to the site. I have an 08 tl base 94xxx miles. I bought 3rd and 4th pressure switch but reading on here that some have said that there's 2 3rd switches? I know where 3rd and 4th need to be replaced but can someone tell me the other location please?

 

I took a 2007 Acura TL and put it in a 2005 motor and trans now the trans is not one that shift and it has no reverse

 

To my knowledge, they are not compatible so that's probably why

 

Hello I just recently did my switches, and everything was going well until I changed the 3rd gear switch. It made my d start flashing and it threw on the CEL. So I needed up putting the old one back in and reset the transmission. And the flashing d stopped. Has anyone else run into this and if so what was the fix, oh also I have tried several switches for the third including an OEM parts. Thanks in advance.

 

What car? Did you get correct parts? Torqued to spec? Plugged all the way in? Where did you get parts from?

 

Check the hole diameter of those switches.

 

​​​​​​I'm sorry I have a 2007 base model Tl.

 

you know I did notice the hope diameter was a bit bigger, but the switch is the part number for the switch it's an OEM Honda part that I used, is it common for the part to have different diameter, I can get the light to stop by putting back the old switch, also I have tried two different Honda pressure switches all the same part number, but both of them have caused cel or flashing d. The first one threw code for circuit "b" pressure high, now the second switch that I put in says pressure low. I'm stumped any help is greatly appreciated. TIA

 

So now let us know what part number you have and where you are trying to put it.

Don't write "it's 3rd pressure switch", but instead write where that spot is located on the trans, or post a picture.

You must be doing something wrong.

 

the part number that I used is 28610-RKE-004, and on my tl the 3rd switch is in the front and you have to engage it from the driver side tire well, it's at the bottom and In front of the transmission. The other switches that I used were part number 28600-rke-004 there are two of these for the second and fourth pressure switches.

Like I said earlier to the other reply, the diameter of the hole in the switch is a lot bigger than the hole of the original pressure switch. For the record the car really drove well before I started all of this, the shifting was not as smooth as friends k when I first got the car, and in some cases it seemed to stall to shift into fourth gear, like I would have to hover at 30000 rpms for like 5-6 seconds before it finally switched gears. The transmission fluid is still red for the most part and I didnt see any debris in it when I changed it out a year ago, and no debris when I changed it again after installing the new switches. After I drove it for a while and the fluid gets heated up, I can turn the car off and the flashing D will go away and I can clear the CEL. And the error goes away completely. Now I'm really confused. I called the dealer and asked the rep what it could be and he said the switch is bad, but what are the odds of me getting two brand new defective switches?

As always any help is much appreciated

 

A few years ago, there were some counterfeits circulating--still might be. After changing the switch a SECOND time, it dawned on me it might be the hole diameter. Sure enough. I made sure the next one matched the original hole diameter and voila--problem solved. Except for the NEW switches I tossed out. $$$

Old FORDS used a starter solenoid mounted on the inner fender that were notorious for failing right out of the box. I would keep 2 or 3 on the shelf.

 

How were you able to find one that matches the diameter, I mean I have only been able to get these online, and it's not like I could compare them before I bought them. Did you goto the dealer or something?

 

Yup. I have a "spare" TL, so I could take the switches to the parts counter.
Sure, dealer is more expensive parts-wise, but cheaper in the long run.

 

I called the dealer here and there advisor told me just to put the old one back until it fails, go figure