Oil Changes
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Oil Changes
Not sure if this is the right forum but what kind of oil are people using in their RLXs? I have always gotten the regular but am debating going for synthetic. Is it work an extra ~$30? Will the engine (J35?) get any benefits or will it just be a waste of money?
I have had the RLX for ~8 months now and ~7,500 miles - oil life indicator is reading 20% so I must be due soon.
Thanks!
I have had the RLX for ~8 months now and ~7,500 miles - oil life indicator is reading 20% so I must be due soon.
Thanks!
#2
I've used Mobil full synthetic in the past but I'm inclined to use the Acura oil which I believe is a hybrid synthetic.
There is/was a full blown discussion on this subject in the RDX forum a year or two ago. Lots of different opinions!
There is/was a full blown discussion on this subject in the RDX forum a year or two ago. Lots of different opinions!
#3
I'm now at about 11,500 miles and I got the oil changed for the 2nd time at 10,000 miles with full synthetic from Valvoline oil. I have used the same shop for more than 10 years with many other cars and have never ever had an oil issue in any car. I never let the oil MID get below 40% before changing it. I might be wasting some money, but it makes me feel better and oil is cheap. I don't think there is any real difference between synthetics brand to brand.
#4
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I was skeptical when the dealer said this, but it seems that Honda really does recommend synthetic for the J35 DI motor, although they did not until now.
So I'm changing oil when the meter says to do it, and using Honda oil supplied by the dealer.
My particular dealer attempts to solicit more frequent oil changes, but I don't do it.
So I'm changing oil when the meter says to do it, and using Honda oil supplied by the dealer.
My particular dealer attempts to solicit more frequent oil changes, but I don't do it.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
that Mobil1 stuff and that castrol stuff that says 'synthetic' on the bottle is mostly marketing at work.
most oil are started off as 'base oils' and certain things are added or mixed in.
a groupIII oil (mobil1,castrol, any of the major brands that say synthetic on the bottle) is a base oil with synthetic or man made chemicals thrown in....(considered synthetic but not true synthetic as there is base oil or a blend)
the groupIV oils are TRUE synthetics. completely man made!
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RLX-Sport Hybrid (07-14-2015)
#6
that's because MOST synthetics are blends.
that Mobil1 stuff and that castrol stuff that says 'synthetic' on the bottle is mostly marketing at work.
most oil are started off as 'base oils' and certain things are added or mixed in.
a groupIII oil (mobil1,castrol, any of the major brands that say synthetic on the bottle) is a base oil with synthetic or man made chemicals thrown in....(considered synthetic but not true synthetic as there is base oil or a blend)
the groupIV oils are TRUE synthetics. completely man made!
that Mobil1 stuff and that castrol stuff that says 'synthetic' on the bottle is mostly marketing at work.
most oil are started off as 'base oils' and certain things are added or mixed in.
a groupIII oil (mobil1,castrol, any of the major brands that say synthetic on the bottle) is a base oil with synthetic or man made chemicals thrown in....(considered synthetic but not true synthetic as there is base oil or a blend)
the groupIV oils are TRUE synthetics. completely man made!
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
some say that you cant have a true 100% PAO (Polyalphaolefins, which classifies it as a grp IV oil)
i'm running Redline 5w-30 in my 2006 Acura TL. and while it's the "best" brand among internet users, i cant help but wonder if there's some marketing speak going on with redline as well.
anyway; the only real specification i'm looking for is the HTHS %. or High Temp. High Shear #.
a higher HTHS % means that the oil wont shear under high temps.
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RLX-Sport Hybrid (07-14-2015)
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
in conclusion; most modern oil that says 'synthetic' will do you great!
mobil 1 is perfect for the RLX as with any other brand out there...penzoil, castrol, etc. is all fine to put into your car.
Acura's MID's or the onboard computers are pretty good at calculating oil life. the algorithm looks for things like, start-ups, revolutions, and some other factors...
and its pretty good at keeping my oil change intervals at about 6000 miles. which is perfect for a 'synthetic' of this caliber.(m1, penzoil, castrol, etc)
mobil 1 is perfect for the RLX as with any other brand out there...penzoil, castrol, etc. is all fine to put into your car.
Acura's MID's or the onboard computers are pretty good at calculating oil life. the algorithm looks for things like, start-ups, revolutions, and some other factors...
and its pretty good at keeping my oil change intervals at about 6000 miles. which is perfect for a 'synthetic' of this caliber.(m1, penzoil, castrol, etc)
Last edited by justnspace; 07-14-2015 at 11:26 AM.
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RLX-Sport Hybrid (07-14-2015)
#9
Senior Moderator
justn, I can't help but question your sources. From everything I have read, Mobil-1, Royal Purple, and RedLine are all about even. Different, minor tradeoffs may set them apart, but on a large scale they are relatively no different. Amsoil seems to be the only oil that may have a distinct advantage over those three. Also, I can't speak for any competitors who have stepped up their products in the recent years, but I don't think anyone will ever have an engine oil problem with those 4 brands.
In general, your Honda engine will outlast the vacuum system, electronics, and transmission regardless of if you use conventional or synthetic oil. Change it at the correct interval, and neither will do you wrong. But keep in mind, therein lies the difference. Synthetic can last 50-100% longer than conventional oil. The "extra" money spent on synthetic will only be wasted if you prematurely change it.
True synthetic oil is supposed to be pure versus the mixtures in conventional oil that contain waxes and other impurities. In general, those impurities can cause long term defects that reduce performance (sludge, gunk), but they can also be used to an advantage. For an engine with a mechanical defect that causes a minuscule leak, conventional oil's impurities may be able to block it and prevent oil burn-off.
To make a long story short, neither path will adversely affect you if you follow proper maintenance intervals. Given the conditions and expectations of your engine, using one over the other may be beneficial. For 99%, it truly won't matter.
For those really interested in learning about motor oil, I suggest reading BobIsTheOilGuy's website.
In general, your Honda engine will outlast the vacuum system, electronics, and transmission regardless of if you use conventional or synthetic oil. Change it at the correct interval, and neither will do you wrong. But keep in mind, therein lies the difference. Synthetic can last 50-100% longer than conventional oil. The "extra" money spent on synthetic will only be wasted if you prematurely change it.
True synthetic oil is supposed to be pure versus the mixtures in conventional oil that contain waxes and other impurities. In general, those impurities can cause long term defects that reduce performance (sludge, gunk), but they can also be used to an advantage. For an engine with a mechanical defect that causes a minuscule leak, conventional oil's impurities may be able to block it and prevent oil burn-off.
To make a long story short, neither path will adversely affect you if you follow proper maintenance intervals. Given the conditions and expectations of your engine, using one over the other may be beneficial. For 99%, it truly won't matter.
For those really interested in learning about motor oil, I suggest reading BobIsTheOilGuy's website.
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WheelMcCoy (07-19-2015)
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pcloadletter (05-13-2019)
#12
I use mobile1 0-20 every 10,000 miles, currently at 91,000. No issues. A 5 quart jug at walmart is less than $30. I don't think you can even get a conventional 0-20.
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