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Three different occurrences on difference streets. First two times just driving then car jerks to the right. First time it happened I thought I just hit a groove in the road and didn't really think much more about it. 2nd time it happened I thought something may be wrong. Today I was driving for about 30 miles, pulled into a drive thru to get something to eat, then pulled out of parking lot onto main street again. As soon as I made my turn on the the main street and straighten out the steering wheel, it naturally wanted to stay at 1 o'clock. That was strange because it was not like that during the prior 30 miles. About 100 feet down the road, my car jerks to the right (probably because my steering wheel was at 1 oclock). I then quickly move steering wheel back to 12 oclock and car is straight again with steering wheel wanting to stay naturally at 12 oclock.
Has anyone experienced this?
Appointment already scheduled for tomorrow morning with the dealership.
The only thing I can think of with that type of behaviour would be an issue with the LKAS?? Was the LKAS system on? Where they any "unusual" lane markings or other lines on the road? Let us know how it turns out.
Maybe the machines are rising up and this is just the beginning???? If you run into a tall muscular guy with a strong Austrian accent and cool sunglasses, ask him how to fix your RLX.
Some electric power steering unit do have small belt (looks like a miniature timing belt). Maybe that is missing some teeth causing it to jump/jerk? Other than a sensor or connection that going bad, there isn't much to a P/S unit. I don't know what type of electric P/S unit the RLX uses for the 3.5L NA or 3.5L hybrid.
HA! No answers and a LOT of guessing!! I'm pretty sure the system monitors will have caught something.
As much as we think dealers suck (and maybe some do) there are simply times when it makes sense to go directly to the experts......especially with a "possessed" car. I too would love to know what you find.
HA! No answers and a LOT of guessing!! I'm pretty sure the system monitors will have caught something.
As much as we think dealers suck (and maybe some do) there are simply times when it makes sense to go directly to the experts......especially with a "possessed" car. I too would love to know what you find.
I agree with Dan's comments of using the dealer to diagnose this problem..... At this same time I would "guess" that it may be one of PAWD rear actuators may be the culprit. As some previous responders have said, there should be some codes set in car somewhere... Were there any indicator lights on dash set at all, even temporarily?? Good luck with the dealer diagnosis and let us know the outcome.
Demosan
Three different occurrences on difference streets. First two times just driving then car jerks to the right. First time it happened I thought I just hit a groove in the road and didn't really think much more about it. 2nd time it happened I thought something may be wrong. Today I was driving for about 30 miles, pulled into a drive thru to get something to eat, then pulled out of parking lot onto main street again. As soon as I made my turn on the the main street and straighten out the steering wheel, it naturally wanted to stay at 1 o'clock. That was strange because it was not like that during the prior 30 miles. About 100 feet down the road, my car jerks to the right (probably because my steering wheel was at 1 oclock). I then quickly move steering wheel back to 12 oclock and car is straight again with steering wheel wanting to stay naturally at 12 oclock.
Has anyone experienced this?
Appointment already scheduled for tomorrow morning with the dealership.
Report back from the dealer ... Both actuators for PAWS need replacing. DTC code U1 482-68. Several $K to fix.
Not sure how that effects the steering wheel as per my understanding rear actuators only turn 1-2 degrees.
I agree with Dan's comments of using the dealer to diagnose this problem..... At this same time I would "guess" that it may be one of PAWD rear actuators may be the culprit. As some previous responders have said, there should be some codes set in car somewhere... Were there any indicator lights on dash set at all, even temporarily?? Good luck with the dealer diagnosis and let us know the outcome.
Demosan
Good call . . . . . . . . but no indicator lights needed if your stuff doesn't drive straight! You need to drive straight, well as straight as the car allows, to a dealer!!
It seems to me to be a bit strange both actuators would "fail" at the same time?? As you probably know, the actuators work together in that when in a turn they both move in tandem to "steer" the rear of car thru a turn. If one is not moving in exactly the same motion ( think about their effect as being like setting toe-in and toe-out ) then the car becomes unstable. Have you noticed any excessive uneven tire wear in your rear tires recently?? If the actuators were going bad that would seem to give you some indication something was not right in steering geometry......... Good luck with the repairs.
Demosan
I missed this post but would have guessed PAWS actuators, a known issue with the PAWS RLXs. I'm sure that even a couple of degrees of tilt makes a significant difference at speed and if applied without warning.
I initially declined the $5K repair as I opted to find another car. Well, it didn't make it. Saturday I made a sharp left turn then my dash board lit up like a Christmas tree. Towed it to the dealer, will have the repairs done after all and hopefully the car will last me another 2-3 years while I wait for my dream M760 or B7. I didn't want to rush into buying something I didn't really want.
It seems to me to be a bit strange both actuators would "fail" at the same time?? As you probably know, the actuators work together in that when in a turn they both move in tandem to "steer" the rear of car thru a turn. If one is not moving in exactly the same motion ( think about their effect as being like setting toe-in and toe-out ) then the car becomes unstable. Have you noticed any excessive uneven tire wear in your rear tires recently?? If the actuators were going bad that would seem to give you some indication something was not right in steering geometry......... Good luck with the repairs.
Demosan
Dealers have tried twice now to get me to replace shocks on both sides after one side failed. "It's just our policy to recommend that." RIGHT!!
I had the PAWS actuators replaced on my '14, but under warranty.
The dealer does have the best tools, equipment, and experience. But they are not the only option in some cases.
For DIY'ers with out of warranty cars, OBD scanners are a useful tools to see all the codes.
A check online today has the PAWS actuators at around $1250 each.
Likely only one is a actually needed at this time. For a DIY approach, the cost is the actuator, time, and a rear wheel alignment.
For a vehicle near it's selling time, this option would look good to a DIY'er.
I had the PAWS actuators replaced on my '14, but under warranty.
The dealer does have the best tools, equipment, and experience. But they are not the only option in some cases.
For DIY'ers with out of warranty cars, OBD scanners are a useful tools to see all the codes.
A check online today has the PAWS actuators at around $1250 each.
Likely only one is a actually needed at this time. For a DIY approach, the cost is the actuator, time, and a rear wheel alignment.
For a vehicle near it's selling time, this option would look good to a DIY'er.
I usually do my own work, but I did not get the impression this was a DYI job. Maybe I'm wrong but I could not find a any guides explaining the work involved. And as someone else mentioned the chance of both going out sounds fishy. I would hate to DYI it to then find out to be something else like the controller.
I usually do my own work, but I did not get the impression this was a DYI job. Maybe I'm wrong but I could not find a any guides explaining the work involved. And as someone else mentioned the chance of both going out sounds fishy. I would hate to DYI it to then find out to be something else like the controller.
Okay, after searching for part# I found a guide to replace them. Looks easy but I still need a computer to program in the new actuators. I don't think that can be done with an OBD scanner.
Dealers have tried twice now to get me to replace shocks on both sides after one side failed. "It's just our policy to recommend that." RIGHT!!
While I see your point with the dealers offering that, I personally have almost the same approach: if you are touching/repairing anything related to suspension or wheels - do it in pairs... so, technically replaced both sides...
Reason I said "having almost the same approach" is that depending on the job/repairs needed, I am not likely to let dealer do this because they charge arm and a leg hahahahaha - so I find 3rd party trusted shop that works on Honda/Acura brand
While I see your point with the dealers offering that, I personally have almost the same approach: if you are touching/repairing anything related to suspension or wheels - do it in pairs... so, technically replaced both sides...
Reason I said "having almost the same approach" is that depending on the job/repairs needed, I am not likely to let dealer do this because they charge arm and a leg hahahahaha - so I find 3rd party trusted shop that works on Honda/Acura brand
UPDATE: After tens of thousands of miles, neither of those struts has failed. Ginormous savings. Just sayin'....
Recieved my car back last week. Just 6 days short of being in shop for 3 months. All fixed and driving well again!
Had a few different loaners: 2 MDX and 1 TLS all 2021 models. I would never buy either one, glad to be in my RLX again.
I had two MDXs in the past week while they were figuring out spoiler re-install; I would not trade my RLX either ... I do admit, if I was getting an SUV, I would consider MDX as one of the top runners, tech or adv, but preferably Type S, it is just that pricing will be bit on a crazier side for MDX Type S trim ...
06-15-2021, 01:01 PM
I too would love to know what you find.
... I do admit, if I was getting an SUV, I would consider MDX as one of the top runners, tech or adv, but preferably Type S, it is just that pricing will be bit on a crazier side for MDX Type S trim 