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As of a few weeks ago I became a new owner of a 2014 RLX / Black on Black Advance – and what an enjoyable car thus far! I was coming from an older E350, and looking forward to a few years of reliable performance from Acura. With everything in life there are trade-offs, FWD/PAWS for reliability, etc, but really warming up to the RLX. I had a ’96 RL a number of years ago, and that was such a solid, die hard machine, I made the move back for now.
With that, Acura has (as one might expect) changed a bit. The car is naturally more performance driven, but areas compared to the ’96 where it’s a little less ‘solid’.
Indeed with the 19” wheels, it can be a bit of a bumpy ride, but I thought I’d share with the group my approach I’ve taken to a few common rattle issues this board has helped me out with.
TSB 041: Flutter or trim wind noise – Drivers door Sash. This was item #1 I noticed driving home from the stealership – HWY 80MPH+. How could acura not affix trim properly on a car like this.. I was easily able to remedy this by inserting a small piece of closed cell foam duct tape (adhesive layer removed) in behind the top of the sash, the area with play via a mini screw driver. TSB solved – no dealer or cost, I was very pleased with that.
TSB 021: Wind noise, driver’s window. I cannot understand, at least from my initial view, why the entire door needs to come apart on this TSB. I was able to lift the trim behind the window and insert the same foam duct tape behind the window facing layer adding a tiny bit more pressure at the location in the TSB. Issue improved and 5 minutes.
Sunshade Rattle: Home Depot Velcro strips. I cut 2 small pieces and descretely placed in the channel creating the extra pressure needed to remove the rattle. Tape not noticeable, but the drives down bumpy roads are easier to take! $5 authentic Velcro, fuzzy side used.
Radio Console snap/pop rattle: I’ve heard a few bring this up, and it was a more annoying one. I found this video:
Removing the console was a non-starter, but fortunately there is approximately a 3x3mm channel with a stop, or ‘floor’ between the top of the console, screen, and bottom of the console unit. Foam again, adhesive layer removed – I used a 3” piece of weather strip, closed cell, cut to size(3-4mm) and inserted carefully in the channel via an AMEX card – reversible, removed the rattle, and no visual evidence unless one looks way up and down. Why have play in that plastic?!
I’ve been driving around at an acceptable rattle level since and only cost me a few minutes and leverage of 2 different types of hardware store foam products. This would be a good car for some additional soundproofing.
Love Krell, acceleration good, technical features – how great it is to be able to customize the experience to the extent one can – full points.
So, hello to the group – and thanks for your inputs to this forum! They've all helped.
Welcome to AZ. Usually we warn people away from the 2014-15 RLX PAWS (many of us, me included as previous owner, are sold on the Sport Hybrid of those years), but it looks like you've done your research. Nice job tackling the little things that can be so aggravating. Make sure you are satisfied with the suspension, which can clunk at times. You might also consider downsizing to 18s, as some members with the PAWS cars have to improve ride quality.
Thanks Bob. Welcome anything else you think I should know about. I can't say I've experienced suspension 'clunk', Acura did tell me all of the recall work was done. I can see how the downgrade to 18s might help, although that's a lot of cash for tire and rim, I'll have to wait until it really starts to bug me.
P-AWS is interesting. I took that badging off via heat gun/solvent/wax, really improves the look of the rear end IMO.
Realize I might be a little late to the party with my used car, it is in like-new condition and babied at the dealership.
Highliner2 - do you have any squeaks in the glove box? It’s play in the latching mechanism I believe. More like a squeak that happens on bumps. Thinking maybe some foam tape applied would help.
No, no glove box in my case, the only one I have left is in either the passenger door trim or rear passenger door trim. I should really take pics to show, but this only happens when blasting bass. I think it's where the door arm rest connects to the rest of the door trim - but I'm being picky on this one, I have the krell maxed... Regarding the glove box, I'll have to take a closer look - ...there is the electric latch, box door itself, and inside the removable shelf and door into the cabin air filter (some spots there to rattle) - Does it go away over bumps while holding the glove box door? Thinking of a strategic place to put some foam duct tape that isn't notable if it were ever an issue, maybe the inside bottom of the door, creating pressure when closed.
Along with standard closed cell foam weather strip. With either product it's easy to rip off the adhesive if undesirable, depending on the application. Fortunately my interior is black! but it's not visible anyway..
No, no glove box in my case, the only one I have left is in either the passenger door trim or rear passenger door trim. I should really take pics to show, but this only happens when blasting bass. I think it's where the door arm rest connects to the rest of the door trim - but I'm being picky on this one, I have the krell maxed... Regarding the glove box, I'll have to take a closer look - ...there is the electric latch, box door itself, and inside the removable shelf and door into the cabin air filter (some spots there to rattle) - Does it go away over bumps while holding the glove box door? Thinking of a strategic place to put some foam duct tape that isn't notable if it were ever an issue, maybe the inside bottom of the door, creating pressure when closed.
it does go away when you hold it. It can be replicated actually by pushing it in and releasing it when latched. There’s a tiny bit of play and when it moves is when it squeaks. I’m not sure if it’s the latch or the door itself, but it’s not the tray inside nor the cabin air filter cover.
Update: it’s actually the hinge. If you open the glovebox and push down on it you get the same squeak noise as when going over bumps. Any suggestions on lubing it or mitigating the noise without taking the door off or taking it apart? That’s above my level of comfort.
Update: it’s actually the hinge. If you open the glovebox and push down on it you get the same squeak noise as when going over bumps. Any suggestions on lubing it or mitigating the noise without taking the door off or taking it apart? That’s above my level of comfort.
Not exactly, but I did have a look while on a grocery store trip, my friend. I am not an RLX expert, but did notice a few things.
1 - I did get a bit of noise pushing down on the bottom of the inside of the box, that light plastic has play and some tape on the bottom of it would work brilliantly - this would involve some trim removal.
2 - The hinge, when pushing down on an open glove box door also invokes the noise but relates back to that same glove box base.
3 - There are the electronically controled latches, if it's coming from there a couple of layers of maybe regular duct tape could quiet that down, but also risk interfering with the operation of the latches - would be trial and error.
The hinges are hidden! and hard to access, as I'm sure you're aware, hence removing some trim to get to it. Either way, I'm sure it's an easier fix thinking this way.
But your car is a 2020, would the dealer not handle it?
Look, this RLX is a really great car! I'm totally pleased with my purchase, and my M.O. is not all about foam tape - but these little items, and thankfully most addressed, are a bit silly - but small.. And thankfully cheaply and easily remedied with some ingenuity, foam, and patience..
I'd love to bring up some other quirks I know you guys might have some insight towards, like the luminosity variance between the dash and the instrumentation lights - turn it up, you're blasted by the dash, lower it, the rest of the car is too dull. And the main console screen dimming; during the day I can barely see my XM channels or other buttons until I peck randomly for it to light up a bit, to then barely see it - Suppose the answer is to turn the brightness up, but then it's generally too bright. Maybe I'm not following it correctly. USB: changing the wallpaper, or anything to do with the port beyond charging a phone is met with 'unsupported' or some kind of error I guess these are the personality quirks.
You are totally right - when I push down on that I get the noise and it's LOUD. Not sure how to fix it, though - it's almost like it needs weight to hold it down to keep it from moving!
You are totally right - when I push down on that I get the noise and it's LOUD. Not sure how to fix it, though - it's almost like it needs weight to hold it down to keep it from moving!
yeah, lol maybe like something large enough to snugly fit between the removable shelf and the bottom - or foam tape on the bottom between the base and whatever it sits on with a little trim removal.. Go foam! haha
Gents, pulling home last night, shutting the car off and exiting the vehicle, locking the car, there was some kind of motor/mechanical noise coming from the rear wheel area, any idea what that could be? What's back there P-AWS resetting, fuel pump, gas flap/trunk going into super lock-down mode?
To Bellanova, regarding TSB 041, I took small pieces of foam duct tape, removed the adhesive later, and inserted it into the door sash trim via mini screwdriver to create the resistance/pressure needed to eliminate play in the sash trim.
Terrifc! This appears to be the front portion of the rear door, yes? Approximately how long a piece of duct tape did you use... the entire height of the sash or just a particular portion?
Terrifc! This appears to be the front portion of the rear door, yes? Approximately how long a piece of duct tape did you use... the entire height of the sash or just a particular portion?
Thanks again for your terrific remedies!
Oh just a small little cut, tiny piece, 5x5mm maybe - just enough to eliminate the play. I put it in the top of both drivers and rear passengers. And.. not just duct tape, it was foam, with adhensive removed, you can peel adhesive off on the stuff I had used.
Last edited by Highliner2; 06-10-2020 at 07:25 PM.
So, I've attempted to place some rubberized foam (for home window sealing) into what I thought was your suggested locations, but it doesn't appear to have any effect. The rattling/flutter continues at highway speeds. Perhaps the material is insufficient? Any insight you could provide would be helpful as this is my #1 issue with my RLX which my dealer cannot remedy!
Material good! Locations a bit off. You need to get behind the black sash - It should have a bit of play when you push on it repeatedly. It may not seem like it, but that is the source. I'd put some in both sides of the tops (driver + pass). Also, careful not to over-stuff, it's a balance. That stuff is thick, may want to consider trimming with exacto. It took me a few attempts to get rid of it.
Last edited by Highliner2; 06-24-2020 at 10:48 AM.
Hello, I have been lucky with my 2014 Acura RLX PAWS Advance. I have not had any major issues including the suspension. Other than recalls, I did get it serviced for a noise with the telescopic steering wheel & to improve the range of the garage door opener.
There was the issue of my battery dying quickly but we figured out that it was due to me leaving the fob too close to the car at home.
@Bellanova on the hwy last night, to my complete dismay, slight flutter is back!! I've taken the extra step of injecting some clear silicone between the black sash and the door in the spots I've highlighted with arrows, and will report back. UNACCEPTABLE how this trim noise is an issue with a car such as this! This is inline to TSB 047 ( http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B14-047.PDF ). Failing this, I'm going to have another look inside the B-Pillar.
Hello Highliner2... I've meant to respond much earlier but time runs away. Unfortunately, no, I've had the same issue after attempting to move the insulating material to the locations you previously indicated. Initially, I'm thinking it is the material itself being too compressible and not rigid enough. The TSB looks interesting -- have you had your shop attempt the repair? I'm not crazy about having the whole door panel removed, but the noise is consistent enough (that's almost always at speeds above 75 mph) that I'm going to investigate with my dealer. They're always annoyed when I bring these TSB notices to them... Please let me know if you find any alternative solutions!
The procedure seems invasive, I have the dealer looking into possible warranty coverage, or estimate on out of pocket for the TSB. It's truly peculiar; first, how a car like this would have this problem, second, how there is seemingly no play, the vibrations still happen to the point of the flutter we're experiencing. I was quite certain I fixed it, since for a considerable time it seemed remedied - temperature maybe, also that particular type of foam does lose it's elasticity.
Many 'ifs', but should I proceed with the TSB, and it turns out not to be our problem, I'll be floored.. (pun totally intended).
06-03-2020, 07:21 AM
I guess these are the personality quirks.
My 14 PAWS Advance
