Oil change interval?
hey all,
I can't seem to find the oil change interval....I Was going to go by the "computer" but feel; it's already been a while and I should be gettting an oil change soon. |
No oil change intervals provided by Honda/Acura. How many miles since your last oil change? I would only worry if it goes over 10k miles since your last oil change.
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It's a brand new car and I'm at 6500ish miles right now.
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Just follow the maintenance minder. Mine dropped to 15% at 7,100 miles triggering the warning so I took it in for the first change. |
Follow the maintenance minder and change oil once you get to 15%.
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Just hit 15% on the reminder last week and I’m at the dealer now doing my 1st A1 maintenance and having them to check out the brake squeal. |
I’d change oil when you are at 5%. From 15% to 5% you might still have another 1k to go based on your driving. |
Originally Posted by russianDude
(Post 16372242)
I’d change oil when you are at 5%. From 15% to 5% you might still have another 1k to go based on your driving. |
Originally Posted by catbert430
(Post 16372290)
If you want to look at the annoying reminder every time you start the car for 1,000 miles...... |
Oil change reminder
Just in case it is not obvious to some of the group, oil degradation is only partially related to miles driven. It is more accurate to base it on run-time hours on the engine and, to a lesser extent, on the way you drive. In the old days, it was asking too much for owners to keep track of the run-time hours, so manufacturers converted to the easier 3000/5000/10,000 mile oil change concept. Now that the engines can track run-time hours and oil viscosity using the pressure drop across the filter, the much more precise calculations are used to determine if the oil is still good.
Changing your oil before 0% life left just wastes oil, which has to go somewhere. On the other side, no one wants to go below 0%, so 5% usually gives you plenty of time to get the car in for a change. On the other hand, nag screens that start at 15% would certainly encourage me to get it changed then.:rolleyes: |
Originally Posted by Master47
(Post 16372563)
Do you have to clear the 15% warning manually every time you drive (to see the normal MID)? Just curious how it works. It's just turning the roller dial a click but, still annoying. |
Turned over to 15% at 6100 miles, and got the warning at every startup. Did the A1 service at 6225 using M1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy. Car has mostly been driven in suburban driving 11 miles each way daily, some stop and go, with one highway trip of about 800 miles round trip. |
Currently showing 550 miles on the OD and oil life indicating 90% so, I would estimate that around 5k miles I'll get the 15% notification. Drive ~74 miles per day with mix of freeway and country roads with elevation change of 2000 ft. Most the the elevation change takes place over a 3 mile stretch. By the way, this seems to be much sooner than the CR-V which was around 10k miles per oil change. Perhaps the turbo puts higher demand on the oil than a non-turbo?
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Originally Posted by Master47
(Post 16388185)
Turned over to 15% at 6100 miles, and got the warning at every startup. Did the A1 service at 6225 using M1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy. Car has mostly been driven in suburban driving 11 miles each way daily, some stop and go, with one highway trip of about 800 miles round trip. I get poor fuel economy so I plan on changing out my oil this weekend. RDX has only 1400 miles. Yeah I know. |
IIRC the stock oil in our RDXs is full synthetic, and the thin 0W-20 formulation is great for fuel economy. There would be minimal/zero gain in switching to another full synthetic engine oil. ( But I always use M1 if I DIY oil changes when they are due. In the big 5 quart jug from Wally World. )
The usual recommendation is not to change out the original engine oil until MM calls for it, because it contains "moly" ( molybdenum disulphide, incorporated from engine assembly grease ) that assists with the break-in process. But this is one of those topics that can incite a riot amongst otherwise rational car enthusiasts. :tongue: I suspect twisting the "dynamic mode" dial counterclockwise and lightening the load on the accelerator pedal would have vastly more effect on fuel economy than anything else you could do with the vehicle. That and avoiding stop-and-go traffic. If you can't avoid stop-and-go traffic and you are concerned about fuel economy, a hybrid drive train might be worth considering. |
I start to like pennzoil platinum more. Mobil1 went nuts with Marketing so many different types of synthetic oil. |
Originally Posted by russianDude
(Post 16391140)
Mobil1 went nuts with Marketing so many different types of synthetic oil.
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All jokes aside, you can buy about 5-6 different types of full synthetic oils from mobil1 0w-20. Thats crazzy. Are there any real differences within mobil1 full syn, or a marketing gimmic. |
Don't these engines have the fuel-dilution issue with oil? If so, I'd consider changing more often than when the maintenance minder indicates.
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Originally Posted by losiglow
(Post 16391262)
Don't these engines have the fuel-dilution issue with oil?
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Originally Posted by losiglow
(Post 16391262)
Don't these engines have the fuel-dilution issue with oil? If so, I'd consider changing more often than when the maintenance minder indicates.
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Originally Posted by russianDude
(Post 16391209)
All jokes aside, you can buy about 5-6 different types of full synthetic oils from mobil1 0w-20. Thats crazzy. Are there any real differences within mobil1 full syn, or a marketing gimmic. |
Originally Posted by Wander
(Post 16391098)
The usual recommendation is not to change out the original engine oil until MM calls for it, because it contains "moly" ( molybdenum disulphide, incorporated from engine assembly grease ) that assists with the break-in process. But this is one of those topics that can incite a riot amongst otherwise rational car enthusiasts. :tongue:
RDX is always in comfomode and I rarely fun the gas pedal. |
Originally Posted by Yotrek
(Post 16391324)
most DI engine, I believe, maybe I am wrong?
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Originally Posted by Dereileak
(Post 16391396)
usually different additive packages, such as high mileage containing much more zinc, others probably have different additives with the same base oil is my guess |
Originally Posted by losiglow
(Post 16391431)
A higher occurrence than NA simply due to the increased compression. But as long as the engineers take that into account and build the engine with adequate piston rings, it shouldn't be a problem. For some reason I was under the impression that this one had more than usual but that's just based on a few things I've read. no concrete evidence. It would be interesting to see if Blackstone would be able to determine this based on an oil sample.
I hope it works because I bought my daughter a CR-V with that engine, and despite my best efforts I doubt she could find the engine oil dipstick if she tried. But after our sloppy weather the past few months, she can refill the washer fluid, so that's something. :rolleyes: But I'm not aware of an issue with the 2.0T. |
Does the service reminder sensor change when full synthetic oil is used? On my Mazdas, the dealer who does all of my service recommends changes every 5-6K miles here in the desert with our extreme heat conditions. I plan to use full synthetic on the RDX but have no experience with the Acura dealer, so I may choose a private shop for my preventive maintenance.
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Originally Posted by Padre Dave
(Post 16416759)
Does the service reminder sensor change when full synthetic oil is used? On my Mazdas, the dealer who does all of my service recommends changes every 5-6K miles here in the desert with our extreme heat conditions. I plan to use full synthetic on the RDX but have no experience with the Acura dealer, so I may choose a private shop for my preventive maintenance.
your acura's owner manual will tell you to change oil sooner if you live in extreme conditions. and the computer/MID usually does a 6-7k interval, so....might as well just wait until the computer tells you to change the oil it's like really easy. when the computer says...OIL change! get an oil change. |
Good point about "severe service" recommendation in the Owner's Manual, but for 2019 RDX there is no specific recommendation for engine oil other than changing it after 12 months if the MM hasn't flagged it sooner. Rear diff fluid, engine air filter, and cabin filter get "severe service intervals". ( OM Page 529 )
I was under the impression that extreme ambient temperature is one of the factors for the Honda/Acura MM calculation of oil change interval. But I could be wrong. Oh, and I don't think the recommended engine oil weight range, 0W20, even exists aside from full synthetic. But I could be wrong about that too. Having said that, I'm told that not all "full synthetic" oils are created equal. But aside from racing applications, I'm not sure how much it matters. |
My understanding that computer uses two inputs into its algorithm: RPM count and miles driven.
So when your car idles in traffic it will come sooner because of RPM count. I dont think they made any improvements to their algo since first gen rdx |
it seems like most people are taking their car into the dealer for their first oil change?
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I did because it cost me $18 to have them do it when I supply 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum and an OEM filter. For $18, I'll let the dealer provide the labor while I watch them do it:thumbsup:
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Originally Posted by securityguy
(Post 16427302)
I did because it cost me $18 to have them do it when I supply 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum and an OEM filter. For $18, I'll let the dealer provide the labor while I watch them do it:thumbsup:
Good idea, I never knew dealers were willing to do the work if I supplied the parts, I do that with my other shops but since this is a new car id like to take it into the dealer the first few times... i'll have to ask them the next time im there. |
My concern is that since I am putting an aftermarket KTuner flash on mine (I have a terminal case of “modomanic severetium” with my cars, so I put the best oil I can find in there more often than required so as to maintain the maximum lubricity and all that good stuff.
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Originally Posted by Padre Dave
(Post 16431967)
My concern is that since I am putting an aftermarket KTuner flash on mine (I have a terminal case of “modomanic severetium” with my cars, so I put the best oil I can find in there more often than required so as to maintain the maximum lubricity and all that good stuff.
I will wait for the warranty to run out before I do any mods especially flashing the ECU. |
Best oil and OEM filter? Why not spend a bit extra and get a better filter
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Originally Posted by ToniRDX19
(Post 16432108)
I like to go the extra mile and use the best motor oil and change it more frequent. I also stick with OEM oil filters
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Originally Posted by securityguy
(Post 16432125)
Is this not an oxymoron??? I agree with @russianDude above. Why use the BEST oil money can buy with gold plated particles in it and then use an OEM Honda filter??? Doesn't sound like the "extra mile" to me either:whyme:
I might consider Frame and Mobil1 filters...might take some convincing. Also I have more than 20 Honda/Acura oil filters. I stock them up when they are on sale. It’ll take several years before I run out. |
Why the hate on OEM Honda filters?? I think they work spectacularly :shrug:
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No hate on Honda filters...I use them too. I just think a few of us found it funny that someone would buy the best oil money could buy and then use an OEM filter when there are certainly better filters on the market that would pair better with the best oil money can buy:confused:
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