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New sub speaker options and general back end disassembly
I did some tooling around and couldn't find much information about the 2019 subwoofer and or how to get to it so I figured I'd save future me's the trouble. Initially I'll just dive straight in to how to get to the sub and then at the end I'll discuss the direction I will be going. Just a warning, this post will be image intensive for those on their phones.
First of all, stop tugging on the subwoofer cover cause that shit ain't gonna pop off. This is what the back side of the cover looks like.
1. Remove all the junk from your trunk
2. Remove all four of your tie downs. Pry up the center cover which will expose a phillips head screw. Use a good size phillips head or you'll probably strip it. I used an impact drill because lazy.
3. With the tie downs removed you can remove the entire rail simply by pulling straight up.
4. With the rails removed the entire tub and tub cover can be pulled straight up all together. Pull it up by prying slowly on each corner. There are clips here and there that you will feel release. They aren't holding it very tightly.
5. Feel accomplishment
6. Pull straight up on the entryway sill to disconnect it from its clips.
7. Remove the cover behind the rear right seat release handle by pushing that little nub down and pulling it straight out. I leave OEM plastic covers on things cause it triggers people. I hope I had an impact here.
8. Remove the two phillips screws behind the cover.
9. Remove this plastic bolt by hand before you go tugging on shit. It's at the base of the fiber board just below the handle you were just working on.
10. I found it easiest to start tugging on the top right and working inward toward the rear seats.
11. Keep tuggin
12. Now walk up front to the passenger side rear seat and remove this tiny cover. Its at the base of the seat belt. Its not really held in by much as long as you pull it straight up.
13. I didn't find it necessary to remove the cover much more than what you see here. You can push the entire thing out of your way and if you go beyond this point you'll need to disconnect the seat release cable which really isn't necessary.
15. The amp cover has 5x 10mm bolts. You'll need to remove this before you can get the sub out. But you're super smart like me and will try anyways. So skip this step and go straight to step 14 then come back to this step when you're ready.
14. Disconnect the sub cable there in white and remove its 2x 10mm nuts and 1x 10mm bolt. Wrestle with the box for 15 minutes then finally remove the amp cover already discussed.
And you're done. When you are ready to reassemble you can use this guide by scrolling back up slowly and turning bolts right rather than left.
Below are a bunch of images I figured I'd want if I were me. The sub box depth is not even on the back side so the sub dept probably cant be much more that what it is.
Label on the sub explains why I want more bass
Amp shot
Where I have decided to place a new sub, The space is about 10x13x9"
The cover has a small channel from the front bucket to back bucket just begging to have a speaker cable running through it
From the backseat facing straight back you'll see there are several grommets that would be perfect for power to be ran.
And that's it for now. I'll post when I finish the install. I figured i'd get a conversation going to see if someone had better ideas.
While you’re in there - take out the sub box and let me know if that’s open to the inside of the rear quarter panel. I have a dent that’s in the body line like almost where the sun sits. I’m trying to get fixed via PDR. Was curious if I could access it from behind the sub box.
As as far as your mods - it all sounds good so far! That tub is screaming for a sub box!
Those plastic trays can cause annoying thumps and rattles just from road vibration. You might have to do some work to keep your bass tight if you stuff an enclosed sub in there.
Are you planning to cut an opening in the hinged cargo area floor or have the sub sealed up underneath it?
For any other intrepid explorers, use a #3 Phillips bit ( squared off tip ) on those tie-down bolts, not the more common #2 Phillips, or you will probably strip the bolt head and then you'll be messing around with drills and bolt extractors.
Those plastic trays can cause annoying thumps and rattles just from road vibration. You might have to do some work to keep your bass tight if you stuff an enclosed sub in there.
Are you planning to cut an opening in the hinged cargo area floor or have the sub sealed up underneath.
For all the complications you listed above and the fact that the most I could get out of that space is a sealed box with about .4 cubic feet I decided against it.
I have gone from a custom box to just deciding to throw a regular old box behind the seat. Now I need to determine which wires I'm going to tap to feed the new amp. I am worried that the wires feeding the OEM sub will be too heavily restricted in frequency and do bad things to the sound. So I may do a combo of a door speaker and the amp into a hi-low converter.
There are some epic threads on this over at Piloteers. Posing as Wanderer, I am responsible for some of the noise, but I traded my Pilot Touring for my RDX Advance ( which has massively better audio bone stock, BTW ).
Basically, every audio channel of the system is digitally processed at a DSP/digital amp, and there is no such thing as a "flat" unaltered speaker output, even within the typical frequency range for a given driver. Every channel is tuned in some way to compensate for response anomalies of the associated drivers and their acoustic environment. It's not just a matter of analog crossovers dividing up the frequency band. So simply recombining the sub and door channels won't restore a flat full-spectrum audio signal. To do it right, you would have to go all-in with a multi-channel digital recombiner/flattener or whatever they call such things. And depending on what trim level of RDX you're working with, that's a whole lot of channels.
Personally, I would just take the sub signal and run with it. You already went to the work of exposing the speaker leads. But you might want to unplug the ANC controller to avoid feedback effects.
BTW, if you find that you end up with too much low bass and not enough mid-bass, you could run the powered enclosed sub along with the stock sub. But usually the problem is too much mid-bass, which makes the bass sound muddy and indistinct.
BTW, if you find that you end up with too much low bass and not enough mid-bass, you could run the powered enclosed sub along with the stock sub. But usually the problem is too much mid-bass, which makes the bass sound muddy and indistinct.
I own the advanced so yeah there will be quite a few channels to pick from. Looking at the amp it appears that the left most connections are the preamp inputs but they are not normal rca connections. I looked around hoping that it was a normal Honda connection that has already been exploited in the community but I found nothing.
I plan to install an LC2i and I'll take in both a rear channel and the sub input and hope the converter can correct or fix any odd bass. Initially I'll keep the OEM sub connected and see how it sounds.
I'll get it all installed this weekend when I'm back in town and post the results.
There are some epic threads on this over at Piloteers. Posing as Wanderer, I am responsible for some of the noise, but I traded my Pilot Touring for my RDX Advance ( which has massively better audio bone stock, BTW ).
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Are you saying the lowest trim RDX has the better sounding system? I’ve only tested the Advance model and wasnt too impressed but I didnt have a good audio source. I just used XM because i thought it was supposed to be CD quality but i read that I’m wrong.
If i were to get the A spec or Advance with the 3D speakers, I’d never utilize the 5.1 anyway. All my music is stereo.
Thanks OP for spending the time taking and posting pics.
XM is nowhere near CD quality. It's heavily compressed and limited in frequency response. Feed the system something decent via USB.
I didn't compare base 2019 RDX to my old 2016 Pilot Touring in terms of audio, but having speakers mounted higher in the front door panels helps with clarity.
Having speakers mounted in the ceiling is pure genius, especially for my tired old ears. Amazing improvement in clarity, irrespective of ambiance or "3D" effects.
The problem with "traditional" door speaker placement is your knees and ankles get front row seats for the concert. Your ears are up in the nose-bleeds with the echoes off the roof and balconies. Having time-aligned speakers mounted near your ears solves this problem.
Also, although the higher-end Honda audio systems are very similar in architecture to the "Acura ELS" systems, allegedly the Acura systems get more fine-tuning.
To OP, I've resisted digging into this because I'm satisfied with the system as-is, but I'm curious about what amp you're looking at. Is there a dedicated sub amp, or are you looking at the multichannel DSP/amp?
If it's the latter, my understanding is that there's really nothing you could tap into between the head-unit and the DSP/amp because a whole bunch of complex processing happens at the "amp". Even overall volume control is done at the DSP under control of a discrete volume control line from the head-unit. So for any aftermarket equipment you have to work with the speaker-level analog outputs from the DSP/amp. There are no suitable "pre-amp" level analog signals.
I think there are threads in the TL forums on this. Search for Acura ELS.
XM is nowhere near CD quality. It's heavily compressed and limited in frequency response. Feed the system something decent via USB.
I didn't compare base 2019 RDX to my old 2016 Pilot Touring in terms of audio, but having speakers mounted higher in the front door panels helps with clarity.
Having speakers mounted in the ceiling is pure genius, especially for my tired old ears. Amazing improvement in clarity, irrespective of ambiance or "3D" effects.
The problem with "traditional" door speaker placement is your knees and ankles get front row seats for the concert. Your ears are up in the nose-bleeds with the echoes off the roof and balconies. Having time-aligned speakers mounted near your ears solves this problem.
Also, although the higher-end Honda audio systems are very similar in architecture to the "Acura ELS" systems, allegedly the Acura systems get more fine-tuning.
To OP, I've resisted digging into this because I'm satisfied with the system as-is, but I'm curious about what amp you're looking at. Is there a dedicated sub amp, or are you looking at the multichannel DSP/amp?
If it's the latter, my understanding is that there's really nothing you could tap into between the head-unit and the DSP/amp because a whole bunch of complex processing happens at the "amp". Even overall volume control is done at the DSP under control of a discrete volume control line from the head-unit. So for any aftermarket equipment you have to work with the speaker-level analog outputs from the DSP/amp. There are no suitable "pre-amp" level analog signals.
I think there are threads in the TL forums on this. Search for Acura ELS.
Can you clarify what you mean when you said the bone stock (base level) RDX has better audio? Are you comparing it with the higher trim levels of the RDX or to your old Pilot?
XM was advertised as having excellent quality back when they first started. Apparently quality has gone down.
If it's the latter, my understanding is that there's really nothing you could tap into between the head-unit and the DSP/amp because a whole bunch of complex processing happens at the "amp". Even overall volume control is done at the DSP under control of a discrete volume control line from the head-unit. So for any aftermarket equipment you have to work with the speaker-level analog outputs from the DSP/amp. There are no suitable "pre-amp" level analog signals.
That is why I'm going to use the LC2i converter. I'll convert the digital output of the factory amp back to analog. It is supposed to do some clever work to back off some of the things that the factory amp is doing that I specifically dont want like rolling off the amp power at high volumes or filtering out some frequencies that the factory 8" cant handle. I'll report back its efficacy.
Can you clarify what you mean when you said the bone stock (base level) RDX has better audio? Are you comparing it with the higher trim levels of the RDX or to your old Pilot?
XM was advertised as having excellent quality back when they first started. Apparently quality has gone down.
I was comparing my old 2016 Pilot Touring to my new 2019 RDX Advance. I haven't listened to RDX base level. I meant "bone stock" as my vehicle ( Advance ) with unmodified audio. Kinda wish I'd never said it. I'm not saying 2019 RDX Advance is going to win any auto audio competitions, that's a different ballgame, but it's the best factory system I have owned.
"XM was advertised". Uh, whatever. Maybe it's because they are dividing their available bandwidth into hundreds of channels of junk, but I've never been impressed. The digital signal is heavily compressed, and it shows. It may be free of static, but it's lifeless and muddy. But if you're comparing to elevator muzak, it's probably fine.
I finally got curious enough to look up the AudioControl L2Ci. It takes 2 channels of analog speaker-level signals and reduces them to pre-amp level analog outputs, with some processing along the way, including some kind of crossover to generate an analog pre-amp level bass signal. So it needs to be connected to factory speaker wires. The pre-amp level analog output from L2Ci can go to an aftermarket amp.
And from another thread, it sounds like there is a dedicated factory sub amp mounted below the subwoofer. I guess I'm less confused now. But I still need coffee.
And from another thread, it sounds like there is a dedicated factory sub amp mounted below the subwoofer.
I take it back. That's the multi-channel ELS DSP/amp that's lurking beneath the subwoofer, which explains all the connections. Beats me why they stuck it way back there.
First I'll show images of the install then talk about how I feel with the components and sound.
Ok, so this is what I ended up with. I tapped both the sub channel and another channel. I'm not sure where it goes but it is certainly one of the main door speakers. I still have the 8" stock sub running and I used the amp's lowpass filter to tune out much of the mid range so the 10" sub can focus on only the low end.
Soldered, heat shrinked, electrical taped, and finish taped everything so nothing will be coming loose any time soon
This was the initial install and I cleaned up the cables a bit before I closed her up. But i wont be looking at it much anyway. Everything was 3M double side taped down so it shouldn't be moving much but I'll check it again in a few weeks.
Ok, so the products. I used a Focal Solid 1 amp (600 watt RMS), DC level 1 dual voice coil 10" sub (300 watt RMS) wired and tested at 8 ohms , and LC2i hi-low converter.
First impressions from an objective standpoint - I am so happy to finally hear the bass tones that I knew I wasn't hearing in the stock setup. It's amazing just how much of my music was missing and you wouldn't know unless you improved the OEM speakers.
Final impressions - This was entirely too much system. I love bass, I love feeling my music, but holy crap. Its not only an issue of overdoing the equipment. On paper this setup shouldn't be overboard. The issues is the acoustics of the car and a backward facing sub. With the amp pushing about 300 watts and the head unit at about 60%; my wife's voice was shaking as she was trying to scream at me. So I adjusted the amp volume to about 25% and it is absolutely perfect. I could have gone smaller on just about everything - 100 to 150 watts RMS would have been more than enough.
Last thought, I will be replacing that box. I needed something quick and it was entirely too big. The sub I got was tuned for .5 ft3 and the box I got has to be like 50 ft3 /s - it is entirely too big.
So that's it. The entire install took about 3-4 hours and the majority of that was trying to run the power to the back.
BTW, for future reference, the pin-outs for the audio connectors are available in the on-line service manual, Honda/Acura Service Express. A one day subscription costs $10. In case you want to know what wires go to what.
The sub, being 2ohms at 50 watts, is as efficient as a 200 watt at 8 ohms. So it it not as underpowered as you inferred. The amp has got to be somewhat beefy to handle that 2 ohm load also. I have found that the deep bass is really dependent on the source material. The RDX has so much mid bass near the driver, which I appreciate, that sometimes it is hard to discern the blend of front and back....exactly what one wants. of course, if you want to shake the car, replace it. i also wish we had more specific control of the sub... and a easier way to replace it. You did a lot of work to get into it. Thanks for sharing.
The sub, being 2ohms at 50 watts, is as efficient as a 200 watt at 8 ohms. So it it not as underpowered as you inferred.
That is a silly comment. The difference in equipment is night and day. We're are not discussing the math of the resistance vs power. We're discussing the equipment behind it. The stated 50 watts @2ohms doesn't mean much if you don't know how the equalizer behind it is utilizing it. For instance, if I placed a similar placard on my equipment it would say 600watts @ 8ohms but clearly i'm not utilizing all of it.
I finally got curious enough to look up the AudioControl L2Ci. It takes 2 channels of analog speaker-level signals and reduces them to pre-amp level analog outputs, with some processing along the way, including some kind of crossover to generate an analog pre-amp level bass signal. So it needs to be connected to factory speaker wires. The pre-amp level analog output from L2Ci can go to an aftermarket amp.
And from another thread, it sounds like there is a dedicated factory sub amp mounted below the subwoofer. I guess I'm less confused now. But I still need coffee.
I have a dumb question. I know nothing about cars. I just leased base model 2019 RDX. I'm really disappointed with the speakers (sound of my music). What can I do? It's a lease, so am I "allowed" to upgrade speaker system? What happens when I turn it back in in 3 years? I wish I'd leased a better trim. Thanks for any tips.
I have a dumb question. I know nothing about cars. I just leased base model 2019 RDX. I'm really disappointed with the speakers (sound of my music). What can I do? It's a lease, so am I "allowed" to upgrade speaker system? What happens when I turn it back in in 3 years? I wish I'd leased a better trim. Thanks for any tips.
It’s a lease. You’re not allowed to upgrade anything in the car. What you can do is do your own upgrades but then you’ll have to return the car in its original condition and remove those upgrades. This option is expensive and not worth it IMHO. Also, you can’t make holes in the dash or cut out extra things in the doors or dashboard for wiring because it’s a lease.
Your other option is to upgrade your car, then buy out the lease when it is over.
Both options are expensive. The second is much better option but I would just keep the car as is, and when the lease is over just get a better trim. Just live with it. It’s only three years. You can maybe try to turn the lease in early and then negotiate with the dealer to upgrade your trim level and not have to pay a stiff penalty. You can also transfer your lease depending on your state.
Last edited by mathnerd88; 08-11-2019 at 10:23 AM.
@Captain Sunday There's another thread around here that mentions some quality improvement when using an aux cord over bluetooth (particularly bass response). Worth trying if you have one lying around.
@likerage I just spent the day doing this same thing following your disassembly guide. That was very helpful, thanks for posting it.
I also used the AudioControl LC2i, but I only tapped into the subwoofer output from the amp. I don't want to potentially mess up the low end when listening to 5.1 audio, which I do on occasion. It may not do anything to mix in a different channel, but who knows.
I have one question about the LC2i. I've noticed that after turning the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the LC2i to turn off (and subsequently the amp). After it does finally turn off, if you do anything (even just unlocking the doors) it will come back on. Does yours do that too? I'm tempted to run a separate remote turn on wire and not use the GTO setting.
@likerage I just spent the day doing this same thing following your disassembly guide. That was very helpful, thanks for posting it.
I also used the AudioControl LC2i, but I only tapped into the subwoofer output from the amp. I don't want to potentially mess up the low end when listening to 5.1 audio, which I do on occasion. It may not do anything to mix in a different channel, but who knows.
I have one question about the LC2i. I've noticed that after turning the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the LC2i to turn off (and subsequently the amp). After it does finally turn off, if you do anything (even just unlocking the doors) it will come back on. Does yours do that too? I'm tempted to run a separate remote turn on wire and not use the GTO setting.
Interesting, I wonder if the ANC (noise canceller) is running all this time and is turning and keeping the amp on. Can you adjust the sensitivity of the GTO? maybe a resistor inline?
Interesting, I wonder if the ANC (noise canceller) is running all this time and is turning and keeping the amp on. Can you adjust the sensitivity of the GTO? maybe a resistor inline?
It's possible it's the ANC. It's not making any noise or anything from the sub or other speakers (that I can hear) and putting my hand on the sub it's not moving any at all.
Today I went ahead and added a 12v trigger to the LC2i and disabled the GTO (I still had the car apart). I had already tapped into an accessory fuse for my dash cam so it was easy to just add it to that.
Wait, I'm confused. It's this 100% necessary if you want to wire up a 3rd party amp/sub. Like there is not "pre-amp" solution in the factory system and therefore you have to patch off existing speaker wires??
Wait, I'm confused. It's this 100% necessary if you want to wire up a 3rd party amp/sub. Like there is not "pre-amp" solution in the factory system and therefore you have to patch off existing speaker wires??
After seeing linkrage’s great post on his sub install, I thought I would go for it.
I have posted a few pics here to answer/show questions that I and others had after seeing his install.
So, go through linkrage’s install first, b/c I don’t want to repeat, only to clarify.
First, my parts list:
M-610D4 10” Memphis Sub
LC2i
Hertz HCP 1D (700W RMS into 2 ohms)
Hertz HRC remote volume control (-50 to +6db)
4 gauge pwr line
(why so much sub? Got the package on a steal from craigslist)
My goal is clean deep bass, not loud and boomy.
Got myself a .76 S/O sealed box and remounted the sub (from a ported box), after I contacted Memphis to confirm. (btw, their customer service is terrific).
I followed linkrage’s suggestion of using inputs from the sub along with a large door driver. I chose a front speaker b/c I know I will never fade them out. These were both fed into the LC2i.
The sub +/- are on the left end of the connector (red/white), and the driver large door speaker is on the opposite end (yellow/purple).
I did not, however, keep the oem sub speaker running. I cut the red line at the amp and ran both the sub speaker and sub amp (of course) back to the amp mounting location. If I ever need to take the new sub out for an extended period of time, all I need to do is connect the sub speaker and sub line together and I get back to the oem sub running. I didn’t want to muddle up the bass with the little oem running all the time.
Tip: if you don’t plan on removing the large brace on top of the amp when soldering, line the top edge of the brace with a 12” piece of tape, it will help you avoid the bleeding I went through ;(
I mounted the amp in the rear left boot cavity, flat down, with the LC2i mounted on the side. Both use 3M heavy duty double sided tape. I will only screw them in if I have to. So far, they are not moving. I cut two holes for the wires and placed in grommets.
I joined Honda Service Express and looked for an accessory line for my turnon. I am not using the ‘auto input line turn on’ that LC2i includes. I have a pic of this purple line next to the under dash fuse box.. One thing I noticed with this line is that it shuts off 5 minutes after you leave the car alone. Not optimal, but I’ll leave it until I find a better one. For the life of me, I could not find a distinct power-on/off to the amp. I was trying to find the line that turns off the stereo after you stop the car and open the door.
Before closing up the back, I laid down 10 sq feet of sticky noise mat so I could deaden the back as much as possible.
With the LC2i gain halfway, and the amp about 25%, the result is just awesome.
The remote volume control for me is essential. I like to get the balance right. I stuck that right next to the main USB so I would not have to reach, and it gets covered by the armrest slide if needed.
After riding 48 hours with the install, I find that sometimes when I start the car and the USB is loading, the sub has a good hum to it for 10 seconds, then maybe does it again, and sometimes doesn’t do it at all. It sounds like the anc is trying to measure output or calibrate? I may just disconnect the anc and be done with it, and possibly wire in a switch to turn the anc on/off if I think its worth it.
And for the final test I played Madness by Muse as a Flac via USB. Was worth it!
Pics below:
remote turn-on I used.
amp volume control next to main USB
basic setup basic setup
did not want to cut wire, so soldered and wrapped. I know, ugly, but wrapped up tight later.
That is a real clean install. I like. Sorry to all about not answering earlier. I get a bit frustrated with these forums and have to take a break sometimes.
I do not have this issue that ya'll are describing but it sounds to me that it is being caused by the lc2i turning on the amp and the amp producing a signal without an input. I presume that you are using the lc2i as the remote turn on for the amp? I have noticed that if I open any door or really do anything at all to the car that it will trigger the lc2i to power on itself and the amp. The question though is why is the amp producing sound without the input? I'm guessing the lc2i is producing something but why? I am guessing you need to do some tuning around on the lc2i to find out. I was really conservative with my tuning so the lc2i wouldn't put out much until its beyond the power of the OEM amp to compliment it rather than blast over it. Wish I could be more help but it definitely isn't normal and I wouldn't accept it if I didn't have to.
car audio install noobie, but what's the purpose of this devise?
Sorry for the slow response. The point of it is to take a high power input that would normally go to a speaker and turn it into a low power input that the Amp needs. Most amps have them however this device does signal processing and outputs a much better signal than the built in amp converter would. It is not completely necessary but recommended, specially at its price point.
I realize that I am not going to win the battle with the anc running and the external sub running. Much potential to humming and affecting the output(which is a common issue when adding a sub into an anc system), and I wanted flexibility. So I added a normally closed relay into the mix. This relay simply connects the OEM sub speaker to it’s original line of the oem amp only when the new amp/sub combo is turned off. In case I need to remove the sub for some reason, etc, all I do is turn off the remote blue line and Viola!, the relay closes, and we are back to OEM status. I am rewiring the blue remote line to a switch in the center console so I can easily turn it off. I am also putting another switch right beside that one that interrupts the yellow power line to the anc. This is the power line to the anc. (only suggest doing this if non-Advance). So now I have the flexibility to shut off the anc if I am playing music at my usual high levels, and power off the amp/sub combo if I need to remove the sub, or just want a quiet ride if someone happens to be sitting next to me and trying to speak ..lol.
One other strange thing I noticed was that the sub output was reverse in polarity. So I flipped the terminals at the sub speaker and it is correct now. Now, how did I figure that out?
1) I tested playing a 60 (or 70) hz tone, with the new sub on, and lowering and raising the sub volume. I can hear destructive interference when the polarity is not right.
2) after doing a 3 finger salute, choose the bottom selection for the menus. Press and hold the right button of the salute for a few seconds, and you will see a developer menu come up. Go to 'amplifier' and choose 'polarity check'. It appears to send out a positive pulse of short duration for any speaker you would like. choose subwoofer. Take your multimeter and measure DC at the sub outputs. The average voltage of the positive pulses will give a positive voltage when you measure positive terminal to positive on MM, and negative voltage when you swap the tips.
Here is a messy schematic of my setup. I know that the polarities are correct going into the LC2i, but coming out of amp, they are switched. I am not doing anymore testing on it, for some reason the amp output is swapped, so I swapped at the sub and it sound great..
Just thought I would share my debugging technique with anyone else trying this and wants to verify that you are getting the best sound you can.
I wonder if I don't have as much overlap in frequency as I believed I did and my sub does not put out the tones that you are noticing because I am deleting the higher end completely. The OEM sub puts out more of a mid than a sub frequency band IMO so maybe I'm simply avoiding those freqs. I'll let you know next weekend since this one has come and gone.
Thanks for submitting a bunch of photos on how to do the job, I had a hell of a time getting the cargo hooks out, ended up not being able to get one out so I just had to kinda work around it.
Completed the install using only the subwoofer wires right beside the sub box, disconnected the sub itself and used the lines to go to my lc2i. Split the wires coming from it so I had both a "left and right" channel going to the lc2i.
Everything worked right out of the gate, I ended up doing a low pass on my amp for about 80hz and it sounds mint.
I did originally get engine noise out of the subs, that made me instantly disconnect the anc module. I haven't plugged it back in to see if the LPF will deal with all the fake engine noise, I do notice the loss of ANC and it makes me feel not so good about doing the install on a 50k CAD SUV.
05-18-2019, 12:58 PM
